AC Help

[Judhudson]

I'm a little confused on some AC parts....

I bought a new dryer from Advance, http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?mfrcode=FAA&mfrpartnumber=33259&parttype=397&ptset=A it's different from the picture, but when I got it, it has a place where you can screw in the Low Pressure Switch, but I don't see anything on the other side that would have anything to do with the Hi Pressure Switch (or relief valve) like my old one does.  Is it normal not to have a Hi-Pressure Relief Valve, or do I need to return it?

Also, I broke my Condensor.  I measured my old one and it came out to about 16 in height and 28.5 in length.  The closest I could find was 16x27 here:  http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?mfrcode=FAA&mfrpartnumber=54305&parttype=390&ptset=A  Would this work?

[is_it_EVER_done?]

I can't comment on the dryer since I have no idea what a 73 uses as pressure controlls, but if it was me, I would get the proper one that accepts all the stock wiring. Not because it is any better than the old style "naked" units (no controlls whatsoever), but so you don't have to jump wiring connectors or have extraneous wiring to deal with.

As for the condenser, unless you are trying to keep it stock looking, I would highly recommend upgrading to a parallel flow unit since you need a new condenser anyway. This is the best upgrade you can do to an A/C system, period. No matter what gas you are running (R-12, R-134, or propane based), or what compressor you have, a parallel flow condenser will do wonders for the system.

I have used the CN20006C many times from "Polar Bear" http://www.polarbearinc.com/PBPC/homepage/Search/CN/CN_PF.html, as it "almost" fits perfect in a stock opening, (26 inch radiator sized). It will bolt on to the stock condenser mounting lugs with just a bit of tweaking of it's mounting rails (elongating the bolt holes about 1/4 inch).

The last one I bought came to about $140.00 shipped, but you will have to call them for a current price w/shipping.

[Judhudson]

As for the CN20006C, when you mean tweaking the mounting lugs, which mounts do you mean? The ones at the bottom underneath the car that screws up into the condensor, or do you mean those two bracket mounts that are found on top by the hood spring?

Oh, and for the drier, the only wiring it has is from the low-pressure switch.  Is there a way to take that off?  It looks like there is a small screw that you can push in, but I tried that and it doesn't do anything.

[is_it_EVER_done?]

As for the CN20006C, when you mean tweaking the mounting lugs, which mounts do you mean? The ones at the bottom underneath the car that screws up into the condenser, or do you mean those two bracket mounts that are found on top by the hood spring?

Oh, and for the drier, the only wiring it has is from the low-pressure switch.  Is there a way to take that off?  It looks like there is a small screw that you can push in, but I tried that and it doesn't do anything.

judhudson, First of all, I have NO knowledge of 73's, so I was wrong in even posting to this thread (Chrysler ceased to exist after 1969 in my opinion) , So I have zero idea of how a 73 A/C condenser mounts, and assumed that they were the same for later 26" radiator openings. On a 69 and earlier, there are 4 mounting lugs that are welded to the radiator core support. The parallel flow condenser I referenced will bolt up to these stock mounting points with a bit of filing/grinding to the holes that exist in the linked condensers mounting rails. In other words, the mounting holes that come stock on the linked condenser I mentioned, come within about 1/4 inch of being a perfect fit to the stock mounting lugs that already exist on an early car. --- I hope that makes sense.

Since I have no idea how the 73 body style mounts the condenser, Your best bet would be to disregard my post. The only reason I chimed in was because you posted a link to a condener that would need mounting modification anywhay, but if you need a direct replacement, I recomend buying it, however, if a parallel flow condenser is available for your application, I would suggest getting it, as they really are much better than the originals.

I'm sorry that I confused your situation, and apologize if I delayed you in solving your problem. As far as the low pressure switch you asked about, you can put a jumper wire across the two terminals that exist in your wiring harness to eliminate it, or as I said, get a dryer that accepts all the stock wiring so that you don't have any dangling/jumped wires. hanging around.

[Judhudson]

I understand your point about not existing after 1969.  I love the 2nd Gens   But I have a small heart for 3rd gens, they kind of grown on me.

I'll keep a look out for the condensor to find one with no modifications.

As for the drier, anybody gotten a direct replacement that matches the original from Paddock or YearOne?  At least a drier with a low pressure switch and a high pressure relief valve hole.  The only thing I don't understand is what in the world do you use to get the low-pressure switch screwed in or out.  The screw/nut is way too thin to get any wrench to turn it

[Judhudson]

*UPDATE*

I found a place that could get me a matching condensor, just like the original, so I'm set for that

I also bought a new Low Pressure Switch.  The only problem I have now is with the drier.  I looked at many places, and they are all the same.  They have a place for the Low Pressure Switch (I assume) but no hole in the back for the High Pressure Relief Valve.  This really worries me since I'm afraid to hook it up and run it because I dont know if it'll blow up without that hole for the High Pressure relief valve

[defiance]

As long as it's not overcharged, there's no danger in running without a high pressure switch.  Most cars don't have them, actually.  Basically, the low pressure switch does exactly the same thing as the high pressure switch - low is on the low side, and high is on the high side.  As the compressor works, the low side pressure goes down and high side pressure goes up.  When low side gets down to a set point (usually in the 30's), it turns the compressor off, allowing pressure to equalize some.  This prevents overpressurization of the high side as well, unless someone SERIOUSLY overcharges the system. 
Are you sure yours had a high pressure switch, stock?  My '72 didn't...  I don't think it did, anyway.  Though, admittedly, a lot of mine was changed before I got it, so I suppose that could have been lost somewhere along the way prior to me

[Judhudson]

I believe it is stock since I looked in my manual and saw a diagram of the dryer, with a clear shot of the low pressure switch and the High Pressure Relief Valve hole on the other side

But thank you, thank you, thank you!  I wasn't even going to attempt to do anything with it until I made sure nothing bad would result.  God knows I already broke a lot of stuff....I dont need to break any more parts

[defiance]

Wait a sec... did the GL have A/C?

[Judhudson]

Well...there was about 309 cars used.....One of them at least had to of had it!