Complete Suspension & Steering Rebuild

[Shakey]

I am in the early stages of a complete rebuild on my '69 Charger R/T and plan on purchasing a list of components from MOOG to rebuild the suspension and steering linkage properly.

I know there are numerous different kits available from vendors throughout the continent but I plan on purchasing all the proper MOOG components individually from my local supplier here in Canada.

I looked at the Federal Mogul website http://www.federal-mogul.com/cda/homepage/index and used their Make & Model lookup feature and came up with a list of items that I can purchase for the rebuild.

My questions:

1. Have any of you purchased any of these items listed below?
2. Were you pleased with the products?
3. Do they have rubber or polygraphite bushings?
4. Is my list correct?

Upper Control Arm Shaft Kit # K7030 x 2 (includes CAM bolts and bushings)
Lower Control Arm Bushing # K791 x 2
Upper Ball Joint # K772 x 2
Lower Ball Joint RT # K781 x1
Lower Ball Joint LT # K783 x 1
Strut Rod Bushings # K7026 x 1
Idler Arm # K7041 x 1
Inner Tie Rod End # ES319L x 2
Adjusting Sleeve # ES3191S x 2
Outter Tie Rod End # ES319R x 2

Thanks in advance for the feedback.

[Just 6T9 CHGR]

Mike, I have used their upper & lower ball joints, tie rods & idler arm with great results.

I used polygraphite bushings though.

MOOG parts are great quality.  You should have no troubles.

[Wakko]

In Mopar Muscle I saw a kit that replaced all moving/wearable chassis parts, front and rear.  I'm going to check into that.   Shakey, I'm doing the exact same thing on my car...steering/suspension...keep me informed as to what you do and I'll do the same.

[Lightning]

I believe Just Suspension is the one that offers that master kit...<grabs magazine>..yep, they call the total replacement kit "the real deal"....replaces "the bushings w/poly, cam bolts, H.D. Strut rods, torsion bars, bar boots, bar bolts, lower arm pins, leaf springs, H.D. shackles, pitman arm, idler arm, lower shock studs & shocks"

[Shakey]

Mike, I have used their upper & lower ball joints, tie rods & idler arm with great results.

I used polygraphite bushings though.

MOOG parts are great quality.  You should have no troubles.

Did you happen to upgrade  to the larger inner & outter tie rod ends and adjusters or did you stick with the stock size?  I was told a later C-Barge ('74 Newport) uses larger inner & outer tie rod ends and adjusters that will give me a more firm feel while steering.  These are also available through MOOG.  Not sure here!

[Shakey]

In Mopar Muscle I saw a kit that replaced all moving/wearable chassis parts, front and rear.  I'm going to check into that.   Shakey, I'm doing the exact same thing on my car...steering/suspension...keep me informed as to what you do and I'll do the same.

I see a few different kits available but I am leaning heavily towards MOOG as I have heard it many times here on this site.  I want rubber bushings and the folks at MOOG tell me that is all they offer.  The parts will total up to a bit more than some of the kits offered but I am guessing that the quality will be a bit better also.

I enjoy saving money, just like the next guy but I don't mind spending money for quality items.  Plus, my Father-In-Law gets a pretty good "farmer discount" at CarQuest, so we will see what happens in the end with the final price$.

I'll keep you up to date.

[chrisII]

I think that I would go with the poly lca bushings at least. they come in a kit with uppers so i would put them in also. if you want the car to have a "tight" feal to it and respond its best the poly is a good upgrade. it also seems to me if i recall that the poly are easeyer to install, not that that shuld affect your choice but it sure doesnt hurt.

[Wakko]

Aren't they usuall squeaky though?

[Shakey]

Aren't they usuall squeaky though?

That's what I herad too!

[Steve P.]

Check this out. Much if not all was covered here.

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,9917.0.html

[dodgecharger-fan]

Aren't they usuall squeaky though?

I've heard that if they are properly lubed, this is not an issue.

I'll be dong this same project soon. (I have to get the stuff apart first, which is proving to be a challenge.)

and all the suspension guys that I know say MOOG is top notch quality.

[Silver R/T]

what's moog's website?

[derailed]

http://www.federal-mogul.com/aftermarket/us/moog.html?Country=USA

Ive always used there suspension parts in my vehicles. They offer quality stuff. I learned that a long time ago when I worked in an auto parts store and thats what everyone asked for who knew anything.

[Mopar Crazy]

I'm putting in a new front suspension in my 68 Charger. Shakey wrote about an Up-Grade for the Inner, OuterTie Rods, and the Adj. Sleeve from a 74 C-Body. I went to the Moog site and found these numbers..
Inner Tie Rod - ES 355 RL
Outer            - ES 352 R
Sleeve           - ES 4405
Does anyone know if these numbers are correct for the Up-Grade for the Charger???
Has anyone used these parts for their Charger?
Should I also go with the Idler Arm for the C-Body ( K- 7073) or should I stay with the stock Arm (K-7041)?
Thanks
Pete

[ScottW]

There's a suspension rebuild in my future too. I've heard alot about the Moog parts as well. I see that Mancini has kits using Moog parts, a regular kit and a super kit. Might be worth looking into.

[resq302]

I have heard a couple things about poly bushings.  First is that they DO squeak, even if you lube them up.  I installed poly bushings everywhere on my 85 Jeep and it did nothing but squeak even with using the included lube.  Secondly, I have heard that people have cracked their upper control arms and other parts due to the poly units not flexing and absorbing the road impact enough. 

I just rebuilt my entire front suspension and put rubber back in with the exception of the sway bar mount bushing, that was the only part that was not made in rubber anymore.  My ride is perfect and it is exactly as it was designed it was supposed to be back in 1969.

[dodgecharger-fan]

Secondly, I have heard that people have cracked their upper control arms and other parts due to the poly units not flexing and absorbing the road impact enough. 

I've heard similar comments. Specifically, polyurethane and polygraphite strut-rod bushings will hammer the lower control-arm bushings in very short order. At the very least, use rubber there.

[Shakey]

I just rebuilt my entire front suspension and put rubber back in with the exception of the sway bar mount bushing, that was the only part that was not made in rubber anymore.  My ride is perfect and it is exactly as it was designed it was supposed to be back in 1969.

Brian,

Where did you purchase your sway bar bushings?

Do they look the same as the factory bushings?

Did they fit with no problem into the original sway bar bushing / mounting bracket?

I see that Mancini has some listed on their web site but with no photos.  I see that Year One has some that look like the originals.

The attached photo is for the YO # MR393 - 7/8" sway bar bushings but they do not have a photo of the YO # MR364 - 15/16" sway bar bushings, the ones I need.

What did you buy?

Thanks.

[Wakko]

Did you use a tool to get your T bars out, Shakey?

[Shakey]

Did you use a tool to get your T bars out, Shakey?

Yes.

I borrowed Dodge Don's homemade torsion bar removal tool.

He purchased an angled piece of steel from a company called Princess Auto.  A general auto supply store here in Canada. 

This piece of metal is about 1/4" thick, about 4" wide and about 8" long.  If you lay it on it's side it is shaped like a hockey stick.  He drilled 4 holes in it and used 2 u-bolts with nuts.  I think he said he has about $3.00 CDN invested in it.  Simply strap it to the torsion bar by laying the u-bolts over top and attaching the nuts and give it a few whacks with the hammer.  Mine came out with about 3 - 4 good hits.

Sorry, I never took a picture of it.

[Wakko]

There's a guy on Ebay selling home made ones for $20.  I know I could make one but by the time I went around and got the stuff, spent an hour drilling into the steel, I might as well buy it.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1,1&item=220009001726&ih=012&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT

[Shakey]

Yep - Don's is very similar.

I agree with the cost / time factor. 

However, I hate waiting for something to be shipped.  You could have those torison bars out this afternoon if you want / need to keep moving on the project.

[Shakey]

I'm putting in a new front suspension in my 68 Charger. Shakey wrote about an Up-Grade for the Inner, OuterTie Rods, and the Adj. Sleeve from a 74 C-Body. I went to the Moog site and found these numbers..
Inner Tie Rod - ES 355 RL
Outer            - ES 352 R
Sleeve           - ES 4405
Does anyone know if these numbers are correct for the Up-Grade for the Charger???
Has anyone used these parts for their Charger?
Should I also go with the Idler Arm for the C-Body ( K- 7073) or should I stay with the stock Arm (K-7041)?
Thanks
Pete

I came up with ES 440 S for the sleeves.  The others are what I came up with also.

I have not tried them yet.

I plan on using my standard idler arm.

It will be a few weeks yet.

[OttawaCharger]

 

[Shakey]

There's a guy on Ebay selling home made ones for $20.  I know I could make one but by the time I went around and got the stuff, spent an hour drilling into the steel, I might as well buy it.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1,1&item=220009001726&ih=012&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT

Here are pics of Dodge Don's tool!   

http://1970chargerregistry.com/70messageboard/viewtopic.php?t=3487