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Loose hood skin

Started by danan, June 26, 2006, 02:06:14 PM

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danan

Hi guys, I have several cars on which the body goop between the hood skin and bottom framework has broken loose and made the hood skin loose.  In some cases the body goop simply detached from the hood skin and in other cases the globs are missing entirely.  What is the approved method of repairing this?  It isn't hard to look at a restored car and notice that this problem was improperly addressed.  I want to make the repair as factory-correct as possible.

One time I drilled out all the spotwelds on a cuda shaker hood, media-blasted the entire hood, primed everything, put factory-looking globs of fast-n-firm on the frame, and re-welded the hood.  This ALMOST worked perfectly, except that I didn't let the fast-n-firm completely dry (it takes WEEKS to dry) and began working the hood.  Unfortunately, sanding the top of the hood  smashed the globs down and pushed the hood skin too close to the framework.  I'm hoping that I can pry the hoodskin up enough to salvage this hood, but if anyone has any ideas on this particular problem, I would love to hear them.  Thanks!

Danan

Semper Fi

danan

Whoa.  I'm sure I'm not the only one with this problem..... 

Has anyone had any luck rebonding the hood skin to the framework without cutting the skin off?  This is tricky because the skin has to sit 'naturally' or it will be difficult to finish the top of the hood properly...

tan top

i had to do this to mine , first do any repair work to the hood ,  prime and block sand  as normal . carefully stand the hood on its bottom corners on a strip of wood /rubber to protect them. use proper sealer/ adhesive from an air powered calking gun , cut the disposable nozzle to the to the desired size of bead .   this procedure must be done  standing up or the hood bolted in place. once you have done this DO NOT turn the hood over and lay it on its out side skin , do not press on the outside or lay any thing on there ,also do not pump to much stuff in the gaps or the hood will be full of bumps as it is only thin gauge steel  . then at best you will be bondoing the whole hood , worst you will be looking for another one. hope this lot makes sense. you could  also get a damaged hood off any car at a scrap yard and practice , if it goes wrong,  no biggie,   
Feel free to post any relevant picture you think we all might like to see in the threads below!

Charger Stuff 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,86777.0.html
Chargers in the background where you least expect them 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,97261.0.html
C500 & Daytonas & Superbirds
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,95432.0.html
Interesting pictures & Stuff 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,109484.925.html
Old Dodge dealer photos wanted
 http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,120850.0.html

danan

Tan top,
Thanks.  That is a good idea.  I blew it with the shaker hood and hope I can fix it (POS Gene Gregory hood.  Very disappointed with the quality.  I guess good cores are getting more difficult to find).  I'll fix the next one bearing your advice in mind.

Drop Top

I do almost the same as tan top. I have done alot of them at that. The only differance is. Right after I have it Plastic Blasted. I would consider this part of the body work. This way I can block the hood with blocking primer and not worry about anything out of sorts latter. If you have a good bond on one side with the factory material and you want it to look as stock looking as possable. You can use a 2 part epoxy to glue one side of the factory stuff back onto the skin. I've had really good luck with doing that.