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how hard is it to change torsion bars in my driveway?

Started by andy74, June 19, 2006, 08:26:40 PM

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andy74

on my 72 i need to change the bars,is this something i can do at home,or do i need some speacial tools?suspension work is all very new to me,so please no smart ass remarks!!


j/k,i can take it im no p##sy

RallyeMike

It's pretty simple.

1 Undo the shock top bolts.
2 Remove the upper control arm rubber stops.
3 Jack the car up so the suspension is hanging.
4 Back the torsion bar adjusters until they are all the way out and disengaged.
5 Remove the clip from the back side of the T-bar anchor in the cross member.
6 Slide or hammer the bars backward and all the way out through the cross memeber.

Steps 1 and 2 are not always needed...If they don't seem to be able to come out easily, spray some penetrating oil into the sockets front and back. If that still doesnt do it, loosen the strut rods and LCA bolts and pry it back and forth to try and break the corrosion set.







Do yourself a favor and buy a Torsion Bar removal tool or make one. You need something to clamp onto the T-bar to knock is out of the control arm socket. You don't want to nick or scratch the bar unless you are going to throw it away.
1969 Charger 500 #232008
1972 Charger, Grand Sport #41
1973 Charger "T/A"

Drive as fast as you want to on a public road! Click here for info: http://www.sscc.us/

Wakko

Is this the same on a '69?  I was thinking of doing mine while the motor is out.
Ian

'69 Basketcase, bluetooth powered

Boynton 236 F&AM

Ghoste


andy74

i guess i am going to attempt this on thursday,that is the only day i have off this week and i can have my son help me!!let me know if i need anything else-i believe that the passenger side bar broke last night as i pulled into my driveway,so i will be replaceing them both with new parts-Andy

Shakey

Quote from: andy74 on June 20, 2006, 05:40:56 PM
i guess i am going to attempt this on thursday,that is the only day i have off this week and i can have my son help me!!let me know if i need anything else-i believe that the passenger side bar broke last night as i pulled into my driveway,so i will be replaceing them both with new parts-Andy

You might want to book Friday off just in case!   :D

Hey Andy - where the hell have you been?  We used to see you all the time around here!

squeakfinder

Sorry to interupt the reunion but how do you tell if you even need torsion bars? How do they ware out?
Still looking for 15x7 Appliance slotted mags.....

Shakey

Quote from: rotsparts on June 20, 2006, 07:27:22 PM
Sorry to interupt the reunion but how do you tell if you even need torsion bars? How do they ware out?

I guess you didn't read the part where he said he thinks he broke one.  It's in the post above mine.

Here, I'll paste it below for you.

Quotei believe that the passenger side bar broke last night as i pulled into my driveway

Here is another quote I found recently that I modified slightly.  Perhaps you recognize it.

QuoteThere's been allot of threads on disc brake conversions torsion bars on this site. You might want to try a search.


squeakfinder

Just thought somebody would have a quick simple responce. I was trying to not interupt. Really!! I wasn't trying to be a smart ass, allthough you sure succeeded in being one.
Still looking for 15x7 Appliance slotted mags.....

Chryco Psycho

thew Easy way is to undo the lower control arm bolts in the fron tof the K frame , use a pry bar & push both the LCA & T Bar out at the same time , for all the hassle of trying to slide the t bar out wouthout the LCA is just isn`t worht not undoing the lca too   

Ghoste

Rotsparts, remember the torsion bar is just a spring.  Wearing out and checking it would not be much different than for more conventional springs like coils or leaves.  They don't wear out as quickly as a McPherson strut but after 40 years, they likely aren't as good as new either.

andy74

Quote from: Shakey on June 20, 2006, 07:11:41 PM
Quote from: andy74 on June 20, 2006, 05:40:56 PM
i guess i am going to attempt this on thursday,that is the only day i have off this week and i can have my son help me!!let me know if i need anything else-i believe that the passenger side bar broke last night as i pulled into my driveway,so i will be replaceing them both with new parts-Andy

You might want to book Friday off just in case!   :D

Hey Andy - where the hell have you been?  We used to see you all the time around here!
ive been pretty busy at work ,not as much time to screw around as normal,but i hope that ill be on more now!my smart ass meter has been running low,with out the sarcastic posts that i usually have-thanks for noticing!!

TylerCharger69

Damn, Shakey.....That was kinda harsh!!!   I think he'd like to know how to tell when they ARE worn out, as opposed to broken.  Rotsparts...I knew mine were worn because of the travel when I'd hit a bump for one  (Kinda like a boat...up and down, up and down)  Plus, the ride height of the car will be considerably lower.  When you adjust that height at the lower control arms, and raise the car back up where it should be, if they are worn...it won't maintain that height, and start to gradually sag back down.   If one breaks,  usually that side of the car will hang lower than the one that wasn't compromised.
I did mine as follows:   After tire is removed...Unbolt the lower control arm at the ball joint.  Remove the nut on the rear of the STRUT rod at the lower control arm so that can be removed.   You need not remove the front one.  It can stay.  Place a jack underneath the control arm and pump untill the control arm starts to raise.  This will ensure that there is pressure on it because the next step is to unbolt the two bolts at the BOTTOM of the shock, which is the key for relieving the stress on the torsion bar.   Then slowly  let the jack down and you will see the lower control arm lower and then after the jack is removed, take out the retainer clip at the rear of the torsion bar.  Then, remove the nut at the "K" frame which holds the torsion bar, and the lower control arm in place.  Once that's removed, you can slide the assembly back  (You may need to persuade) hence the reason for removing the retainer clips, and the torsion bar is out.   Use some good grease when installing the new ones, and you may need to replace those dust boots at the rear of the torsion bars.  Pack 'em good!!   And use some on the front as well.   That'll prevent "creaking"   There is a right and a left, so make sure they go on the correct sides.  When installing,  I usually  have the "slot" on the ends of the bars face vertically.   Assemble in reverse order,   and   get it aligned!!!    Hope this helps you out...It's a pretty easy procedure for the most part.   Just take your time. :icon_smile_wink:

TylerCharger69

Sorry...that previous post goes to Andy74  as well.....

andy74

Quote from: TylerCharger69 on June 22, 2006, 04:24:35 PM
Sorry...that previous post goes to Andy74  as well.....
thanks Ty, but i finished the job last night,and drove her to work this morning for an alignment!!took me about 6 hours total,and 12 beers but its all back together

TylerCharger69


Brock Samson


andy74

Quote from: Brock Samson on June 23, 2006, 10:23:14 AM
   So it's a two six-pack job then?..
along with the cracked torsion bar i had a weak universal to fix,and i bled the brakes,after the new master cylinder a few weeks ago i didnt have a great pedal-this weekend is new tires time,but im not sure my liver will handle it all!!! i am in training for carlisle ;D,so yes it was a 2 six pack day,and a case this weekend i feel!!!

squeakfinder

Thanks TylerCharger69. You answered my question on what the symptons would be.
Still looking for 15x7 Appliance slotted mags.....

TylerCharger69

That's what we are here for!!!    A lot of Mopar gurus in this forum!!!  Quite a few with exemplary knowledge and skills!!!

RallyeMike

Moderating your alchol consumption with the time required for the task at hand is the most critical aspect of back-yard mechanic'n.  Congrats on a job well done !!!

1969 Charger 500 #232008
1972 Charger, Grand Sport #41
1973 Charger "T/A"

Drive as fast as you want to on a public road! Click here for info: http://www.sscc.us/

TylerCharger69

Well...you know.....I always monitor my alcohol intake  when taking on these tasks.  A few shots of Tequilla  to get primed before opening the beer helps out.... :icon_smile_wink:

Wakko

Andy, did you use a torsion bar removal tool?  I'm ready to pull my bars out.  Where did you get your replacements and what size did you get?

Ian

'69 Basketcase, bluetooth powered

Boynton 236 F&AM

resq302

when I recently did mine, I was able to gently get a pry bar in and get the lower control arm and torsion bar out as one.  After the lower control arm and torsion bar was out, the torsion bar came out nice and easy.  You might be able to get the torsion bar out also without having to remove the lower control arm if it is not rusted in place.
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

Chryco Psycho

it is Far easier to loosen the nut for the LCA & pry both back togehter & just slide the LCA back into place

Wakko

Ended up taking the whole dang K frame out, then using a hammer and pipe to pop them out of the frame mount.  Super easy.  Guess I'll order some .96 bars to replace 'em!

Ian

'69 Basketcase, bluetooth powered

Boynton 236 F&AM

TylerCharger69

wow.....I've never had that much difficulty in getting those torsion bars out.   Everything comes apart in a pretty easy process....I guess maybe yours were rusted in place???

Wakko

We were taking the K frame out anyway.  Took the four bolts out, lowered the K frame a couple inches and smacked it gently with the sledge.  After the K frame popped off we used a regular hammer and a small pipe on the rears.  Came out a little harder, but not too tough.  Bettery than trying to grab the greasy bar or mess around with it.  I imagine they've never been out before.  One of the K frame bolts was a real PAIN.
Ian

'69 Basketcase, bluetooth powered

Boynton 236 F&AM

purple70rt

Quote from: Chryco Psycho on July 24, 2006, 10:56:25 PM
iut is Far easier to loosen the nut for th eLCA & pry both back togehter & just slide the LCA back into place

only way I do it, they usually come right out.