News:

It appears that the upgrade forces a login and many, many of you have forgotten your passwords and didn't set up any reminders. Contact me directly through helpmelogin@dodgecharger.com and I'll help sort it out.

Main Menu

is my clutch going or no?

Started by Brightyellow69rtse, June 12, 2006, 07:50:16 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

Brightyellow69rtse

its been a while since i been on im sure theres alot of guys here that dont know me. some of the old timers do :0 but anyway to make a long story short i went to do a badass burnout to show my brother how mopar does it (he has a camaro btw) and i reved her to 3500-4k ish and poped it in 1st gear and it didint spin em or anything seems like it slowly grabbed and off i went. normally this would trigger a violent reaction between the tires and the asphalt  :yesnod: but i tried it another few times just to be sure it wasnt me. i have changed nothing to the car whatsoever. the car shifts fine so far except for when i pop it like that for a smokeshow. its a centerforce dual plate clutch i wanna say its been in the car 4-5 years if my memorys correct.i had t4he flywheel resurfaces too at that time all the normal things 
its a good weather car and hasnt seen tons of usage.

         So whats your opinions i dont know much at all about clutches all i know is from reading here i shoulda got a borg and werner i think the name in cuse centerforce is a crappy clutch so im told.

any info or direction here would be great i got summer nationals at the end of the month and a couple nice cruises really soon. A charger that cant burn the meats is a terrible thing whats the problem here?

firefighter3931

Mike, sounds like the clutch is slipping under (heavy) load. If you can smell it....then it's on it's way out.

Ron
68 Charger R/T "Black Pig" Street/Strip bruiser, 70 Charger R/T 440-6bbl Cruiser. Firecore ignition  authorized dealer ; contact me with your needs

Brightyellow69rtse

ok thats what i was thinking not to sound stupid but how bad (i know its not good for it) is poping that at 3500 or so? would all i need is a clutch or should i get the flywheel resurfaced and all that jazz too? any reccomendations as to which clutch?, thanks , Mike

Chryco Psycho

check the clutch adjustment first , you should have 1/2 or so free travel at the top of the pedal ,assuming the adjustment is OK your clutch is toast [not surprising for a Cforce!!]
the clutches I use are the McLeod borg& beck or borg& beck /long style , the part # will be different for the 11"143 tooth flywheel or the 10.95" 130 tooth flywheel but eiother way this is what works for me & yes the flywheel should always be surfaced with a new clutch 

Brightyellow69rtse

Neil are you saying that there should be no pedal pressure for the 1st 1/2 inch or so? im pretty sure i have pressure at the very top of the theres no dead space in teh stroke if you wanna call it that. it has been like that from the time it was installed to the best of my knowledge.

also what would i have to do to adjust it, theres a cruise on saturday in hampton beach im thinking of going to but dont wanna get stuck 1 1/2 away with a bum clutch, thanks guys, Mike

Brightyellow69rtse

ok i just talked to summit to get some prices incase adjusting dosent help me here but the borg and becker and the long version is 166.99 for the clutch and the pressure plate ranges from 173.00 for the regular version and 195 for the long.

now the guy said the long is for racing and not street useage. i asked him why but got mostly jibberish. so what ones better, you know damn well im gonna be popin it at 4k again  :yesnod: i just want something that will hold up real good and not be a killer to drive, thanks, Mike

tecmopar

Thats what Chryco is saying, there should be about 1/2" to 1" freeplay at the top. If it has none as you say then the clutch is never fully released and riding on the throw out bearing. The adjustment is under the car, it is the nut on the clutch fork rod. Once you see it I think you'll be able to figure out how to make the adjustment, good luck.

Chryco Psycho

as above adjust the nut up the adjuster so the rod becomes shorter until you get free play , it won`t have Zero pressure due to the overcenter spring but it will be light fo rthe 1st 1/2 " then you will feel the load of the clutch

Brightyellow69rtse

ahh ok i understand now, i took it to work today for a company car show and there probly is a 1/2-1" of play in it. after thinking about it a few days i was thinking that possibly my rear main leak i had last year might have gave the clutch a oil bath  :flame: hense the no grab at 4k and a pop in 1st. it will occasionally grab but not very often if i do this, and when it does it smells terrible.

so i checked on the clutches at summit what would be better the borg and beck or the borg and beck long style?, thanks, Mike

Chryco Psycho

either is good the long style is more for race applications but works nice 

BigBlockSam

the way i was taught to check a clutch is to put it in forth gear and let the clutch out. if the car doesn't stall, your clutch is slipping bad. Rene
I won't be wronged, I wont be Insulted and I wont be laid a hand on. I don't do these things to others, and I require the same from them.

  [IMG]http://i45.tinypic.com/347b5v5.jpg[/img