Check my 383 build plan, please.

[Brent69]

Ok, I'm about to take the plunge and get my 383 rebuilt but wanted to run the plan past some guys here to make sure I'm doing this right.  The car is '69 bare-bones stock numbers matching Charger that I bought from the original owner about 25yrs ago.  It has 120k miles on it and has never been rebuilt.  I parked it in the garage about 15yrs ago and haven't started it since.  Since it's numbers matching, I'm building the 383 rather than swap a 440.

Here are the planned parts based on the quote from the machine shop.

Pistons: Speed Pro Hypereutectic
Rings: Speed Pro
Crankshaft: Reuse stock – turn & polish
Rods:  Reuse stock – resize and use ARP bolts
Damper: Pioneer
Bearings: King (Rod, Main, Cam)
Camshaft: Comp Cams Kit K21-215-4  Includes lifters, timing chain & gears, springs, retainers, locks, seals
   Duration: 218
   Lift: .3026
   Separation: 110

Intake: Edelbrock Performer 383
Carb: Road Demon  625
Heads: bare Edelbrock Performer RPM 84cc
Pushrods: reuse stock
Valves: new 2.14/1.81

The tranny is a stock 727 with the stock torque converter.  The rear-end is 8 ¾, but I'm not sure of the gear ratio.  I plan to add TTi headers and 2.5" pipes.

The car will be a weekend cruiser with a good amount of highway driving.  I have no plans to race it, but would like it to move if challenged.  I plan to rebuild the tranny and I'm willing to replace the converter if it makes sense.  I also plan to install Magnum 15" wheels with the 245 and 275 60/15 tire combo.  In case it matters, I also plan to add  Classic Auto Air A/C.

Anything that needs to be changed here?  Also, what steps should I ensure that the machine shop takes besides the standard bore, hone, etc.?

Thanks,
Brent

[dodge freak]

Well I know these guys don't like those pistons, you want forged and at least 10-1 with those heads. Not sure about the rest. But wait , let the others get a chance. Don't order nothing.

[Brent69]

I was avoiding stroking the block because I wanted to keep it fairly stock.  Once it's stroked, you can never go back.  Maybe that's not really an issue?

I originally requested forged pistons, but the machine shop really seemed to prefer the hyper's.  I've read several of the posts here where people really distrust the hyper's so I'm already reluctant to use them.  I have no plans to run nitrous, but want something that is bullet proof.  I don't want to have to rebuild this engine again in a very long time.

Thanks for the tip on the carb - 625 seemed kinda small to me.

And, I'm not ordering anything until I get plenty of feedback from members here.  This is my first rebuild so I need all the tips I can get.

[Rolling_Thunder]

you can go back on a stroker motor...     dont know why you would though...      just gotta swap in a stock throw crank with rods and pistons...   

[firefighter3931]

The build doesn't look bad but it could use a few tweaks ;

(1) forged pistons
(2) zero deck block
(3) performer rpm manifold
(4) 750 cfm carb
(5) engine balanced
(6) hemi oil pan, windage tray and high volume oil pump
(7) slightly bigger cam (Engle k56)
( properly curved ignition

* Static compression ratio in the 10.5:1 range to increase cylinder pressure and maximize torque.


Ron

[Brent69]

Ok, I've decided to go with the forged pistons, but NOT stroke it.  I found these at Mancini:

http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/sealedpower.html

I'm also checking into the Engle cam.  I will defintely have everything balanced.  If I zero-deck the block and get up around 10.5:1, will pump gas still be an option?  I will be adding an electronic ignition, but haven't decided on one yet.

Any there any issues with reusing the stock rods and push rods?

[firefighter3931]

Brent, the 2315 speedpros are fine. 10.5:1 with a zero deck is what you're looking to achieve because this will give you ideal quench with the closed chamber head. If it's assembled properly, it'll make more power and run fine on pump gas. You might have to reduce the chamber size on the edelbrock heads (milling) but that's no biggie...it's been done many times in the past. Getting the piston to zero deck and the chamber volume dialed in is critical and attention to detail makes the difference.

As for the rocker arms and pushrods ; i would replace both. Mp carries heavy duty stamped replacements which are thicker in the critical contact areas. A 3/8 in chrome moly pushrod is also recommended for added strength. You don't want a pushrod punching through the rocker arm when you spin the engine up to 6k and reusing old worn stock pieces will cause problems eventually.


Ron

[Chryco Psycho]

The build doesn't look bad but it could use a few tweaks ;

(1) forged pistons
(2) zero deck block
(3) performer rpm manifold
(4) 750 cfm carb
(5) engine balanced
(6) hemi oil pan, windage tray and high volume oil pump
(7) slightly bigger cam (Engle k56)
( properly curved ignition

* Static compression ratio in the 10.5:1 range to increase cylinder pressure and maximize torque.


Ron

I agree

[Brent69]

The information here has been great and is much appreciated.  I think I have the parts plan put together.  Now, I want to make a detailed list of all the things I want the machine shop to do.  If it's anything like body work, if you don't write it down and get them to agree to it before-hand, it probably won't get done.

I've done some searches, but haven't found anything that gives a good list of block prep tasks for a good rebuild.  I'll make up a list and post under a new topic for people to add their ideas.

Thanks to all.
Brent

[jerry]

i asked about hyper pistons awhile back to replace the stock 440 heavy cast pistons .in a 69 six bbl car.all i got was use  forged heavy pistons .for 30 years i used and abused this motor with no trouble using cast factory pistons. why wouldn't the cast pistons made today be better than the factory pistons even a little bit and if this is the case that is all i care about because they will last untill i am done with car .why put forged pistons in a street car the way this guy is going to drive it. does everyone on this site drag race every big block mopar b-body 52 weeks a year?

[Brent69]

I'm no expert on this stuff, and the old timers here will certainly have better answers.  But, I think it has to do with all the other modifcations that are being done.  By adding higher performance bolt-ons like aluminum heads and intake, bigger carb and cam, headers, etc. the horsepower of this engine will increase considerably.  Factory cast pistons in a stock 383 producing 335HP would probably be fine for another 30yrs even if you used and abused it.  However, just these bolt-ons can add a big chunk of horsepower and might be more than even newer slightly better cast pistons can take.

I'll step aside and let the experts weigh in.

[dodge freak]

You are so right about getting everthing in writing, they told me they put in new rod bolts then afterwards said oh it does not need it. Been 4 years and its ok but still they lied and I could not do anything. Maybe it be fine with cast but if it breaks you have major problems so I guess they think just play it safe. and go forged it does cost more but it won't break for sure.

[Chryco Psycho]

the factory cast piston were Very good quality piston , the new hypers not so much , the factory had a steel insert to limit expansion the hypers do not + the material is more brittle & has to be fitted perfectly to be trouble free
The way I look at it $2-300 more for forged pistons is CHEAP if 1 hyper piston fails you can barely buy a new gasket set for the extra cost & I can garantee you will need a block , at least 1 rod & possibly a lot more if a piston fails .... why take the chance

[firefighter3931]

the factory cast piston were Very good quality piston , the new hypers not so much , the factory had a steel insert to limit expansion the hypers do not + the material is more brittle & has to be fitted perfectly to be trouble free
The way I look at it $2-300 more for forged pistons is CHEAP if 1 hyper piston fails you can barely buy a new gasket set for the extra cost & I can garantee you will need a block , at least 1 rod & possibly a lot more if a piston fails .... why take the chance

Well said.  The hypers are not detonation resistant like a forged piston. It's easy to break off a ringland and waste the cylinder and possibly the motor. That's why i (and many others) favor a quality forged slug....they're more forgiving. 


Ron