a primer/ blocking question

[67hcode]

Hi,

I am in the process of repainting my 67 and have a couple questions maybe someone can help with.  The car had very little rust. I stripped the whole thing to bare metal. I had to patch a few small spots, which i had metal patches welded in and I am now finishing.
Right after I got done stripping the car, I shot 2 coats of dp  epoxy primer on it. My question is this: I plan on using k36 primer and blocking the spots where I've done body work but, is it necessary to spray the whole car in k36 and block it? Most of the metal is in perfect shape so there really is nothing to fill on most of it. Not sure if I'd be wasting my time priming and blocking a bunch of area where there's never been any body work.  Also wondering what is the best surface to spray paint onto? k36 or a coat of dp epoxy that's been thinned and is more of a sealer?  Would be nice to save some steps but at the same time, I spent forever stripping 3 old paintjobs off this car and want the work I'm doing now to last. Any thoughts or suggestions are much appreciated.

Thanks,
Bob

[mopar_madman]

really depends on how straight do you want the car, The filler primer, when blocked will fill in small waves and also any sand scrathes that might have been missed. With all the work so far I would block sand the whole car, it will be more then worth it when you sit back and see a perfectly straight panel as opposed to sitting back going " I should have blocked the whole car"  If you prime the whole car and mist a guide coat, you will see all the little spots. Some cars are better then others but I think you will be happier in the end.

[69 OUR/TEA]

Hello 67hcode,I agree,you should primer the whole car with your k36 primer,and blockthe whole car out.Before you spray on the k36,scotch pad the DP to put a mechanical scratch to adhere to.Also,what are you going to use for the topcoat?Base/clear or single stage.and what color?This matters as to what sealer you should be using.PPG  NCS 1990 is a great sealer,covers great,and has the ability to fill in smaller sand scratches.It can also be tinted to get close to the color you are painting,(higly recommended).The sealer is grey,and with alot of colors if you don"t tint it,you risk the chance of seeing thru the basecoat,or you have to put on alot of base to get full coverage,and in doing that you could actually change  the color from what is intended to like.Example...how many plum crazy or B5 cars have you seen that all look different?I can say,alot!!Or sublime that looks to light or to dark.Using PPG concept single stage usually is not a problem putting directly over the grey sealer,if thats what you are going to use.Any more ?, feel free to ask.

[67hcode]

Thanks a lot for the help. I actually just bought my paint the other day. Concept single stage in RR1 yellow. I sprayed the inside of the decklid with 2 coats over the dp epoxy primer ( I scuffed it since it has been in primer for awhile.) Looks really nice. I plan to shoot 3 coats and then wet sand and buff it. Still a few weeks away from that though.

[69 OUR/TEA]

Are you doing this job in a booth or in an open garage/shop?

[67hcode]

When it comes to the paint, I think I have a booth lined up to sparay it in. Everything else I'm doing in my garage

[Silver R/T]

if the rest of the car is in good condition, just spray k36 on body work areas and then block it. After that then just seal whole car.

[hemi-hampton]

When in bare metal or primer a lot of the smaller waves or ripples are to small to see or feel but you'll see them once painted. If not a nitpicker this may be all right but if you want a better job priming & blocking the whole car should do it if you do it right. Use a black guide coat to show any low spots & put at least 3 coats of primer on. LEON.