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Neutral safety switch question

Started by Just 6T9 CHGR, June 05, 2006, 07:20:47 PM

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Just 6T9 CHGR

On a 69 & later 727 with the 3 prong switch, does the switch stay depressed in all gears except reverse?

I changed my switch last year due to a leak.  After I put the new switch in the reverse lights stopped working.  Just got around to checking it now.

I have 12v+ to one outer leg on the switch when in reverse and nothing on the other leg.  If I jump the 2 outer terminals, the lights work

I went out & bought another switch today.   Using a DVOM the outer terminals only have continuity when the switch is not depressed.  When you depress the switch the terminals lose continuity.

Do I have a problem inside the trans?
Chris' '69 Charger R/T


Animal

Take the switch out & check the fingers inside the box are moving.I know on the 68s,the fingers are different,as they use the one prong switch.Adam.

Chryco Psycho

could be a mismatched valve body / lever that is not operating the switch correctly , I know they are different , Has it ever worked with the 3 prong stlye switch ?

Nacho-RT74

that's what I'm thinking... maybe cam lever is the wrong one inside the tranny  ? or you have an earlier tranny
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

Just 6T9 CHGR

The orig 3 prong switch worked.  John Kunkle suggested that the Standard switch button might be too long.....I might have to shim out the switch....
Chris' '69 Charger R/T


Nacho-RT74

yes it could be a longer switch too
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

1969chargerrtse

O.K help me out here please.
I have put 2 brand new reverse switches in my trani ( 3 prong 69 style )and both do the same thing. They work perfect for about a month. Then my lamps go on when I'm in drive or the lower gears. It works in reverse and the neutral switch works correct, but it also stays lit in drive. It'll go off in park and neutral.  I puled the switch out and it's the exact same size as a spare 68 one I have, length etc..... I took the washer seal off and cranked it in tight and it still goes on in drive. Odd thing is, if I put a new one in there It'll work fine, for a month.  :eek2:
Any ideas?  :shruggy:
I know I have a 727 put I don't know the year?
This car was sold many years ago to somebody in Wisconsin. I now am retired and living in Florida.

John_Kunkel



Whenever the metal pin in the middle of the plastic is extended the BU lights will come on, there is a plastic shoe on the internal shift lever (roostercomb) that should keep the pin retracted in all gears but Reverse. Out of adjustment shift linkage or a damaged plastic shoe will allow the lights to come on in other gears.

First check the shift linkage for worn or missing plastic bushings.
Pardon me but my karma just ran over your dogma.

1969chargerrtse

Quote from: John_Kunkel on April 17, 2011, 03:16:27 PM


Whenever the metal pin in the middle of the plastic is extended the BU lights will come on, there is a plastic shoe on the internal shift lever (roostercomb) that should keep the pin retracted in all gears but Reverse. Out of adjustment shift linkage or a damaged plastic shoe will allow the lights to come on in other gears.

First check the shift linkage for worn or missing plastic bushings.
Wow, great picture and info, thanks.    I would think my plastic shoe is N/G then. Because it comes on all the time in all drive gears, can I just guess the plastic shoe is shot?
Do I have to drop and disassemble the trani to fix the shoe or can it be done while on the car? Maybe with a mirror and light I can see in the hole?
Heres an odd question? This morning I hooked up the 2 prong connector under the hood and everything worked fine. An hour later I start the car to check it and the lamps are on in drive. Why would it work and then not work correctly?   :P And why does Park and neutral work as they should to start the car but it won't start in reverse or drive.
This car was sold many years ago to somebody in Wisconsin. I now am retired and living in Florida.

John_Kunkel


The plastic shoe is attached to the valve body and it can be removed in the car. The shoe is visible in the hole that the switch is threaded into (might need a mirror).

If the problem is intermittent I'd tend to look at the switch...new or not.
Pardon me but my karma just ran over your dogma.

1969chargerrtse

Quote from: John_Kunkel on April 18, 2011, 03:32:56 PM

The plastic shoe is attached to the valve body and it can be removed in the car. The shoe is visible in the hole that the switch is threaded into (might need a mirror).

If the problem is intermittent I'd tend to look at the switch...new or not.
Hmmm this is my second new switch.  I'll take a look in the hole and see if the plastic is broke, if not I guess the switch again.  Is it easy to explain how to change the shoe?  Is there a video or info out there to read.
Thanks for your help.
This car was sold many years ago to somebody in Wisconsin. I now am retired and living in Florida.

1969chargerrtse

Pulled the switch out and took a look inside.  No shoe for sure, just a notched cam.  Not gonna sweat it.  If I ever rebuild the trani I'll deal with it then.
This car was sold many years ago to somebody in Wisconsin. I now am retired and living in Florida.