What modern features have you integrated into your car?

[Kern Dog]

I know that many of you prefer stock type cars and with the values of them being what they are, I can understand.
Still, some of us don't spend much time thinking of the value of these cars, we just want them to be fast, fun and comfortable.
What modern amenities have you put in your car?
I wanted better fuel economy without sacrificing power so I went with a Tremec 5 speed. The overdrive gear really makes it a better car for road trips than it was with the 727.
How about suspension? Seats?
Years back a friend installed a rear view mirror with several features that new cars have including a backup camera. I didn't go that far. Mine is cool though...Auto dimming, temperature and compass displays too.
There have been other things but let's see what you guys have done....

[b5blue]

Wiper delay made a big improvement.

[70 sublime]

I have gathered up as many factory options my 70 could have had from new for my car but did not come with that I like

About the only thing not 1970 will be a better radio and speakers

[b5blue]

My 70 "had cruise control" now long gone with the 318. I replaced the A/C with modern Classic Air set. A "Super Tuner" sits in the AM radio place.

[Dino]

Edelbrock Pro Flo 4 EFI
In tank fuel pump
Cold air intake
4 wheel disc brakes
17" wheels
Hydroboost
120 amp alternator
Upgraded charging system
Volt meter in place of ammeter
Side markers changed to turn signals
Headlights changed to dual low/high beam
LED bulbs throughout interior
Interval wipers
Upgraded A/C components
Rear seat belts
Upper rear pad mounted front seat belts
USB charger
Cut pile carpet and floor mats
Alarm system with Bitwriter hookup
Remote start
Power doors
Power trunk (key fob and under dash)
Power windows with remote and one touch feature, including auto close when locking
Stock looking radio with bluetooth. 5 channel amplifier. Dual center speaker, rear deck speakers, front tweeters, 12" subwoofer
Wolfbox rear view mirror with front and rear cameras
Working on carpeted trunk

I think that's it but I'm probably missing something.

[Kern Dog]

Holy Crap...who can beat all of that?   
If there were a contest, I think that we already have a winner!
I have the electric trunk lock release they had in  Chrysler Fifth Avenues. AM/FM/CD player with a port to charge phones or play music. Dakota Digital instrument panel, CAA HVAC though I can't seem to keep the A/C blowing cold.
I want to add a tilt steering column and actually have one from a Cordoba, I just need to restore it and make the swap. Tilt wheel is a great feature to have.

[b5blue]

Kern I suggest you buy a vacuum pump and gauges. (I did.) You can get to the bottom of your issue with that A/C system.   

[Kern Dog]

I actually have used them. Mine pulls fine to the 30" target and stays there. Maybe the problem lies elsewhere? I've charged it myself once and had it charged by others twice and it blows cold for awhile, then fades out.

[b5blue]

Nothin beats knowing. Mine has done well despite being torn open a few times.

[Kern Dog]

I had a few things that kept me busy outside of this car but all of that cleared up JUST as the weather was cooling off.
Because of that, I didn't get around to the A/C fix. I'm looking to do a cam swap and would have to crack open the system anyway. Maybe by late Spring I'll take it to a shop for the A/C fix.
Radial tires.
Bilstein shocks.
4 wheel disc brakes.

[Derwud]

540 with Edelbrock Pro Flo 4 EFI
Tremec 5spd with Hydraulic Clutch
In tank fuel pump
Cold air intake
4 wheel disc brakes
17" wheels
Hydroboost
120 amp alternator
Upgraded charging system
Dakota Digital Dash
Headlights changed to dual low/high beam with LED's With yellow low beams with separate switch that also opens the headlight doors.
LED bulbs throughout interior
Vintage Air A/C components
Rear seat belts
Upper rear pad mounted front seat belts
USB charger
Radio with bluetooth, Android Auto, 200 Watt Rear Amp for 6x9's

[Dino]

540 with Edelbrock Pro Flo 4 EFI
Tremec 5spd with Hydraulic Clutch
In tank fuel pump
Cold air intake
4 wheel disc brakes
17" wheels
Hydroboost
120 amp alternator
Upgraded charging system
Dakota Digital Dash
Headlights changed to dual low/high beam with LED's With yellow low beams with separate switch that also opens the headlight doors.
LED bulbs throughout interior
Vintage Air A/C components
Rear seat belts
Upper rear pad mounted front seat belts
USB charger
Radio with bluetooth, Android Auto, 200 Watt Rear Amp for 6x9's

How did you mount the front seat belts?

[John_Kunkel]

Kern I suggest you buy a vacuum pump and gauges. (I did.) You can get to the bottom of your issue with that A/C system.   

I actually have used them. Mine pulls fine to the 30" target and stays there. Maybe the problem lies elsewhere? I've charged it myself once and had it charged by others twice and it blows cold for awhile, then fades out.

Holding a vacuum for a specific amount of time (half-hour) only means it's sufficient to take a charge, not that it's leak free...if you pulled a vacuum and let it sit overnight, you'd see a drop the next morning.

For aggravating minuscule leaks, a lot of pro shops use nitrogen testing, it'll find the leaks that common "sniffers" miss.

"Nitrogen pressure testing in HVAC systems checks for leaks and validates system integrity. This process involves filling the system with nitrogen, a non-reactive gas, under pressure. Nitrogen is preferred over air for testing because it doesn't contain moisture, reducing the risk of corrosion inside the system."

[Kern Dog]

Oh, I agree.
I knew the owner of the first shop that charged the system. I got there around 4:00 thinking I'd drop the car off and return the next day. I knew the owner through his wife so as a favor to me, he ram-rodded through and charged the system with a cursory vacuum test. He didn't follow the stated instructions in the kit yet the system did blow cold for over a year. When it noticed that it wasn't blowing cold anymore, I ran a vacuum test to 30" and let it sit for an hour. It never dropped not even a slight amount. Then I tried adding R-134. It felt cold but that was in March with an ambient temp in the low 70s. A month later in the mid 80s, it wasn't very cold so a friend repeated the process....vacuum, wait, then charge. It was sort of cold but nothing like a newer car. I just figured it may be nature of the beast but then it slowly got less and less cold to where it now acts like it is just blowing ambient air temperature. The heater is fantastic...as good or better than my 2007 truck.
I did a Vintage Air install in a friends '68 Satellite this year and let a pro finish the vacuum and charge. That car is still working properly. The shop did have a nitrogen leak detection protocol.

[70 sublime]

When we have troubles with the air in our farm tractors leaking down the guy puts in a green dye into the system with the freon and sooner or later we would see where it was leaking if it was not inside the heater box area

[John_Kunkel]

Problem with the green dye is it's carried by the lube oil in the system...a lot of small leaks will leak gas but not the oil.

No automotive A/C system is totally leak free, the only way to make it leak free is to hermetically seal the system like your home A/C and that isn't practical with the compressor seal exposed to the atmosphere and rubber hoses with crimp connections, etc.

[Nacho-RT74]

I wouldn't consider regular performance upgrades as a better shocks, new carb, ignition system and stuff like that like "modern" features.

However an EFI system could be some modern feature, because there is nothing like that for cars back on the years

When my car will be reassembled so far so good the only "modern" feature could be the repro radio with the internal modern gutters.

Now, a new non factory feature I will add is a temporary high beams flashing function (even with lights off), with a push button on floor. Modern? Dunno, but unavailable on our cars. Is simple like ad a push button attached to the high beams network with a couple of wires. I think is a very important function to warning calls for the transit.

Is it modern? Dunno, depending on point of view. Nothing magic OR TOP TECH of course LOL

[Nacho-RT74]

Oh, also thinking on add also an A/C clutch cut off switch at full throttle... no high tech either but non original feature.

I even have a RPMs switch control to cut also the A/C clutch at certain high RPMs (not just at full throttle). Still unsure if add it really. But is there in my stash of parts.

I would call this and the high beams flashing push button as a "modern" features, more like a modern upgrades.

[Kern Dog]

Well, a hollow sway bar is a modern idea. 4 wheel discs are too, as is Hydroboost for cars.
I don't have hydroboost. I tried but couldn't get it to work.
AM-FM-CD players with IPOD adapters and cool. The Dakota Digital instrument panel is pretty cool.
Sound deadener is a welcome addition.
Who has aftermarket power windows?

[timmycharger]

Classic Auto Air A/C set up with vents from an original A/C dash.
Firm Feel State 2 Steering box upgrade
120 Amp alternator
upgraded/bulkhead bypass wiring
headlight wiring upgrade with relays
Factory 8 track radio re wired with amp outputs and audio jack
Aftermarket 1000W amp/speakers
Shift light hidden in gauge cluster with chip holder in glovebox
Be Cool aluminum radiator with dual electric fans
Master Power front Disc Brake conversion
upgraded Front sway bar
full sound deadening

[Nacho-RT74]

I added rear sway bar, but a stock one I found locally NOS. Not hollow piece. Even if being a performance ADDCO or some other manufacturer piece added, wouldn't call it "modern"

But could be a hollow sway bar a modern feature? Well I guess yes. ( not sure about the advantage being hollowed thought... will search for info)

EDITING... the bigger improvement on the hollow bar is just weight? Needing a bigger outside diameter bar too? Not for me just to save couple of kilos LOL.

[cdr]

68 Charger
Rack & Pinion steering
Hotchkis upper arms
Double adjustable front shocks
slotted drilled front disc brakes
alum radiator with pulse width module electric fans
better headlights with relays
High output alternator & wiring harness
BIG hollow front sway bar
rear sway bar
512 cid, Hillborn 8 Stack EFI with intank fuel pump
a518 Overdrive & lock up converter
2010 Challenger drag Pack front seats
Three point retractable seat belts
Sanden AC compressor
Holley digital Dash for everything engine
Dana 60
LED bulbs throughout car
Catrac rear springs & bars

 

[Nacho-RT74]

Well... out of the "factory" parts or replacements (I meant "factory" because I became my 74 Venezuelan version Charger onto a 74 USA Rallye version with factory used parts) I added:

-Rev-N-Nator ECU
-BLASTER 2 Coil
-slotted and drilled front rotors
-Ceramic front pads
-KB pistons (stroked 400 on 440 crank)
-Crower Cam
-Yukon brand clutch SG
-NGK spark plugs (being Champion factory maybe this is important? LOL).
-MP (Mallory) dist.
-EDELBROCK PERFORMER intake.
-Hughes Engines spring valves.
-Larger valves.
-Flowmonsters oval mufflers. (Not chambered Flowmasters, but a copy of Dynomax ultra flow)
-Upgraded with more powerful headlights but still halogen with the logical relays upgrade.
-R134 refrigerant.
-2.5" pipes from HP manifolds up to rear.
-1.06" FF T-bars.

Adding when reassembling:

-resto modern radio
-Aluminium A/C condenser
-TF2 trans go kit

[Derwud]

Upper rear pad mounted front seat belts

How did you mount the front seat belts?

They mount at the Shoulder belt attachment point.. On a 70

[Dino]

Upper rear pad mounted front seat belts

How did you mount the front seat belts?

They mount at the Shoulder belt attachment point.. On a 70

Oh gotcha. I though you did something similar to mine.

[marshallfry01]

Front disc brakes that clear 14 inch wheels
Electronic ignition
Holley 750
Thumb wheel radio restored with modern internals
New speakers

Other than that it's pretty much a stock 383 69 charger.

[Kern Dog]

Looking at some videos, it seems like installing a 518 in a 66-70 B body includes some transmission tunnel work. The torsion bar crossmember follows the shape of the transmission tunnel and it is in the tunnel where the modifications are needed. The 500 and 518 are thicker at that point than the 904s and 727s. The crossmember gets cut out where the arch is and a 1/4" thick steel bar replaces it. This provides more room and adequate strength. The bolt in section below has to be modified and be made deeper to compensate for the thicker housing there.
This gets you a good overdrive transmission that is just as durable as a 727 but with a .69 overdrive gear. This allows you to have a final drive of 2.69 with a 3.91 diff and a 2.82 with a 4.10 gear.

[Mike DC]

Looking at some videos, it seems like installing a 518 in a 66-70 B body includes some transmission tunnel work. The torsion bar crossmember follows the shape of the transmission tunnel and it is in the tunnel where the modifications are needed. The 500 and 518 are thicker at that point than the 904s and 727s. The crossmember gets cut out where the arch is and a 1/4" thick steel bar replaces it. This provides more room and adequate strength. The bolt in section below has to be modified and be made deeper to compensate for the thicker housing there.
This gets you a good overdrive transmission that is just as durable as a 727 but with a .69 overdrive gear. This allows you to have a final drive of 2.69 with a 3.91 diff and a 2.82 with a 4.10 gear.

The A518 is a good tranny but it has clearance issues.  You are definitely cutting the crossmember in a big obvious way on a 1960s-70s B/E body.  The fit is not close.


Also, the A518's oil pan hangs down about 1 inch lower than a 3spd 727/904.  (Swapping the pan won't fix it.  The A518's pan is lower because the valve body inside the pan is lower too.) 

If you are already running full-length exhaust headers, then those collectors are probably hanging down the same inch in the same area. So the A518 oil pan won't make it any worse.  But if the car has iron manifolds & stock exhaust pipes then the A518 pan will be the low point under there.  That could be big trouble if you hit it on a speed bump.   

[Nacho-RT74]

Aren't A500/518s available just for Small Blocks?

Or it does exist a modified bell housing?

I'd like to add the overdrive unit from gear vendors on my 727, but is out of budget. Once I found on a Mopar Facebook group this unit being sold by a member on $1500 and I was tempted. But I have A LOT of priorities yet.

[Kern Dog]

The A518 pan will be the low point under there.  That could be big trouble if you hit it on a speed bump.   

Yeah, for those with soggy .88 torsion bars!

[Mike DC]

Aren't A500/518s available just for Small Blocks?

Or it does exist a modified bell housing?

I'd like to add the overdrive unit from gear vendors on my 727, but is out of budget. Once I found on a Mopar Facebook group this unit being sold by a member on $1500 and I was tempted. But I have A LOT of priorities yet.

Mopar didn't make a big-block overdrive but you can convert it.  You have to manually saw/grind the bellhousing off the stock A518 case, and then bolt on a different (aftermarket) bell in its place.

If I was doing the job I might look into having the aftermarket bell welded onto the OEM case.  Cast aluminum is pretty weldable.  (I don't really know if this is wise or not.  I'm just saying I would look into it.)   

IMO a good A518 conversion is a better end result than a 727 + Gear Vendors.  The A 518's OD ratio is 0.69.  And it doesn't shorten the driveshaft too radically (which increases U-joint angles).   

This is gonna sound weird in the hot-rod hobby, but . . . I would consider using an A518 model with a lockup converter too.  It lowers the revs a couple hundred more RPM.  Yeah, I know it's conventional wisdom that lockup converters are fragile on hi-po cars.  But that same logic would say you shouldn't replace a 727 with an A518 tranny in the first place.   Do you want lower cruising revs or not? 

(Downside for sourcing the A518 tranny itself:  You don't want a fully electronic version from the later 1990s.  But you do want the 4th overdrive gear.  And if you want the lockup converter too . . . that narrows it down to just a couple of model-years to choose from.  Maybe a single year. )   

Yeah, for those with soggy .88 torsion bars!

Depends on where you drive. 

The (intentional, planned) height of speed bumps in Chicago is 3-4 inches.  The city is covered in them.  There are outliers over 4 inches. 

 

[Dino]

I have an adapter to stick a GM overdrive behind the 440, but I'm very likely just going to bite the bullet and install a T56 next year. Back to the plan from 10 years ago. 

[Mike DC]

I have an adapter to stick a GM overdrive behind the 440, but I'm very likely just going to bite the bullet and install a T56 next year. Back to the plan from 10 years ago. 

I've looked into the T56 conversions but I came out leaning more towards a 5spd TKX.  The 6spd is a MUCH BIGGER cutting job on the car chassis, it's physically heavier, and I don't like the gear ratios they sell for it.  The wide-ratio gearset (for the lower 4 gears) on the 6spd does not have very even spacing.  The wide ratio set for the 5spd is better.     

The 6spd might be the better tranny in the mechanical sense (smooth shifting at high speeds, horsepower rating, etc) but the TKX 5spd upgrade made that gap narrower.  And most street cars aren't testing these limits.   

Just my opinion.  If you want tightly-spaced lower gears then the 6spd is suitable.  I just like more of a touring-car feel to the gear spacing.  It's less muscle-car-ish but IMO it feels more natural to drive when you aren't racing anybody.   

[Kern Dog]

The Tremec 5 speed that I installed in mine has comfortable gear spacing and an excellent 5th gear. I don't see the need for a .50 top gear unless I wanted a higher top end. I have only been to 130 in the car and that was with the 727. The .64 overdrive in the TKO is great though, letting me run about 2/3 the engine speed that I run in direct drive.

[John_Kunkel]

Mopar didn't make a big-block overdrive but you can convert it.  You have to manually saw/grind the bellhousing off the stock A518 case, and then bolt on a different (aftermarket) bell in its place.

If I was doing the job I might look into having the aftermarket bell welded onto the OEM case.

 

That's what some enterprising people were doing with factory BB bell before the Ultrabell was introduced.

[cdr]

I did the ultra bell, it was not all that much modification to the tunnel, xmember I made out of the old one.

[Derwud]

I have an adapter to stick a GM overdrive behind the 440, but I'm very likely just going to bite the bullet and install a T56 next year. Back to the plan from 10 years ago. 

I got the A-41 for my Wagon, still deciding if I want to go Gen 3 or stay Small Block.

[Nacho-RT74]

I think this is not really on topic, but since floated on... well...

The GearVendors job is "easily" reversible... having the extra driveshaft for the overdrive tail housing while keeping the factory tail housing and driveshaft storaged. Just couple of hammering on tunnel to clear the speedo wire, as far I recall.

Whatever... neither the GV or any A518 will be on my car anytime soon...

[Mike DC]

I did the ultra bell, it was not all that much modification to the tunnel, xmember I made out of the old one.

Is your A518's tailshaft/U-joint at the same height as the old 727, or is it lower? 

I measured stuff for this conversion years ago. I came out thinking the stock crossmmember would have to be totally gone in the center if I wanted to keep the tailshaft height where it started.   

That top picture shows the A518 ground clearance issue I was bringing up.  The tranny pan hangs down about as low as the header collectors.  That's no problem as long as the headers are there.  On a car with iron manifolds the A518's pan & valvebody would be hanging down exposed. 

[cdr]

I did the ultra bell, it was not all that much modification to the tunnel, xmember I made out of the old one.

Is your A518's tailshaft/U-joint at the same height as the old 727, or is it lower? 

I measured stuff for this conversion years ago. I came out thinking the stock crossmmember would have to be totally gone in the center if I wanted to keep the tailshaft height where it started.   

That top picture shows the A518 ground clearance issue I was bringing up.  The tranny pan hangs down about as low as the header collectors.  That's no problem as long as the headers are there.  On a car with iron manifolds the A518's pan & valvebody would be hanging down exposed. 

Trans is 2.5 deg down. stock I have seen 3 to 3.5 down so mine is better than stock, my drive line angles are perfect car is SMOOTH all the way to 140mph, also I drive the car a lot, it is not babied, been over lots of speed bumps, NEVER have my headers or trans pan hit, lots of people use the deep pan on a 727, makes it the same as my A518. ALSO my car sits very low in the front.

[Kern Dog]

My main gripe with the Gear Vendors is the weak overdrive ratio they have. After all these years, they have never even tried to make a better ratio? .78 is better than nothing but not that great.

[Mike DC]

 
The GV overdrive is a product for bigger industrial trucks & RVs.  The muscle car kits are more of a side deal.  That's why the overdrive ratio isn't optimized for our cars.   

[Kern Dog]

It does help. The 4.10 was knocked down to a 3.20 but with a 518, that 4.10 gets dropped to a 2.82.
The noise reduction with lower cruise RPMs is absolutely fantastic. All the sound deadening in the world still can't compete with a 1000 rpm drop in engine speed.
I've thought it would be interesting to integrate turn signals in the side mirrors. Some guys have changed to LED lighting. The Holley headlights are amazing but quite pricey. I have headlight relays and Hella H1/H4 headlights. These are a lot brighter even with their base level 55/60 watt bulbs. Years ago in my Camaro, I ran 80/100 bulbs and those were amazing! I may upgrade mine to those.
I know a guy that puts a hidden GPS tracker in his classics, a system that helps follow the cars if they are ever stolen.

[Mike DC]

I've thought it would be interesting to integrate turn signals in the side mirrors.

I've thought about this too.  It's probably a matter of time before the Fed makes mirror-mounted turn signals standard on OEM cars. 

IMO it's already getting risky to keep driving these classic cars around without a high center 3rd brake light.  Those do make a real-world difference.  And modern drivers are conditioned to expect the 3rd light to be there.  Those things have been mandated on new cars for 30 years.     

[Dino]

IMO it's already getting risky to keep driving these classic cars around without a high center 3rd brake light.  Those do make a real-world difference.  And modern drivers are conditioned to expect the 3rd light to be there.  Those things have been mandated on new cars for 30 years.     

Hmm that's a good point. I should install one.

[timmycharger]

IMO it's already getting risky to keep driving these classic cars around without a high center 3rd brake light.  Those do make a real-world difference.  And modern drivers are conditioned to expect the 3rd light to be there.  Those things have been mandated on new cars for 30 years.     

Hmm that's a good point. I should install one.

what about installing brighter LED tail lights/brake lights? I would personally try that route before adding a third brake light. All I can think of is my Dad's 72 Dart in the mid 80s with an added third brake light. Looked terrible.

[Derwud]

IMO it's already getting risky to keep driving these classic cars around without a high center 3rd brake light.  Those do make a real-world difference.  And modern drivers are conditioned to expect the 3rd light to be there.  Those things have been mandated on new cars for 30 years.     

I added one and made it flash when brakes are applied.

Hmm that's a good point. I should install one.

[Mike DC]

 
The center 3rd brake light was originally tested by a big taxi company in the 1980s.  They put 3rd lights on half of their fleet (like a couple hundred cars).  The next year they compared the rates of cars getting rear-ended.  The 3rd lights had reduced it a lot. 


What feels normal to us is not normal anymore.  Today the roads are full of people who have never used a crank window. 

Keeping a classic car road-legal is one thing.  Reducing the odds of getting hit is another. 

Other drivers are used to every vehicle the road having a certain amount of brake lights.  Their 'muscle memory' instincts are attuned to that, and our old cars don't have them all.  In the practical sense we might as well be driving around with some of the regular taillight bulbs missing.     



For 3rd brake light retrofits, IMO it makes sense to mount them as high as feasible.  Like at the top of the rear window rather than the bottom.  Classic cars are ALL low-riders by modern standards.  We need the brake lights as high up as we can get them. 

[b5blue]

I saw one that is called "Braking Light" that senses extreme breaking. (?)      https://www.amazon.com/Maxsa-Innovations-Braking-Sudden-Brake/dp/B0CHZ5K46P

[Dino]

I have an adapter to stick a GM overdrive behind the 440, but I'm very likely just going to bite the bullet and install a T56 next year. Back to the plan from 10 years ago. 

I've looked into the T56 conversions but I came out leaning more towards a 5spd TKX.  The 6spd is a MUCH BIGGER cutting job on the car chassis, it's physically heavier, and I don't like the gear ratios they sell for it.  The wide-ratio gearset (for the lower 4 gears) on the 6spd does not have very even spacing.  The wide ratio set for the 5spd is better.   

The 6spd might be the better tranny in the mechanical sense (smooth shifting at high speeds, horsepower rating, etc) but the TKX 5spd upgrade made that gap narrower.  And most street cars aren't testing these limits. 

Just my opinion.  If you want tightly-spaced lower gears then the 6spd is suitable.  I just like more of a touring-car feel to the gear spacing.  It's less muscle-car-ish but IMO it feels more natural to drive when you aren't racing anybody.   

I definitely want a wide ratio. I know I can get a wide ratio T56 with the close ratio 5th and 6th, which would be fun on the highway at high speeds, but is it really worth the extra work? I wish I could try them all out first. 

[Mike DC]

I definitely want a wide ratio. I know I can get a wide ratio T56 with the close ratio 5th and 6th, which would be fun on the highway at high speeds, but is it really worth the extra work? I wish I could try them all out first. 

Look hard at the T56 ratios.  I mean the bottom 4 gears too.  The "wide ratio" (2.97 first gear) is more like a close ratio in the first 3 gears with a big oversize gap between 3rd-4th. 

This calculator is the best one I've found for graphing out gear ratios in a useful way.  Then you can see what I'm talking about: 

https://www.blocklayer.com/rpm-gear

 
Tremec probably did it that way because it matches some modern factory 6spds.  But the OEMs might have done that to hit a dragstrip time.  It wasn't necessarily done for ideal cruising. 

Tremec's 5spds all have smoother spreads in the lower 4 gears.  But they do some hard jumps with many of the overdrive gears, to get the cruising revs down as far as possible.  Lots of OEM modern muscle cars have 5-6spd manuals with big gaps too.  Lots of owners are fine with it but it would bug me. 

[Kern Dog]

If you want to see an absolutely stupid set of gear ratios, look at the overdrive 833s.
First is something like 3.09, second is around 1.67, 3rd is 1 to 1, 4th is what... .80?
The rpm drop from 1st to 2nd is a punch to the dick.
Conversely...
The Tremec TKO has a 2.87 1st, a 1.87 2nd. The closer spread means that you don't shift from 6000 rpms down to 3400 from 1st to second.

[Nacho-RT74]

The goal for the 3rd/center brake light is not for the immediate car on rear, but next ones behind it, to see it throught the windshield of the ones in front.

Sure that gives more time to brake, knowing the car 3 or 4 cars away in front of you is braking.

[Mike DC]

The goal for the 3rd/center brake light is not for the immediate car on rear, but next ones behind it, to see it throught the windshield of the ones in front.

Sure that gives more time to brake, knowing the car 3 or 4 cars away in front of you is braking.

Good point.  That's a factor too. 

[moparguy01]

My 74 has quite a few modern features.
505 stroker, Fuel injection, gearvendors od, Braum seats, HUGE brakes front and rear, 20" wheels i just got made to look like kelsey hayes recall wheels, custom dash with a double din radio, custom center console. Basically i have the shell of a 74 charger, but not much else.

I wish i could figure out how to post a picture on here again, its been years.

[moparguy01]

My 74 has quite a few modern features.
505 stroker, Fuel injection, gearvendors od, Braum seats, HUGE brakes front and rear, 20" wheels i just got made to look like kelsey hayes recall wheels, custom dash with a double din radio, custom center console. Basically i have the shell of a 74 charger, but not much else.

I wish i could figure out how to post a picture on here again, its been years.