Rear main seal stop leak

[J-440]

 Ok, I'm still having an issue with my rear main seal and am about to nuke my entire garage bc of it! Has anyone used AT-205, which I hear is the best oil stop leak? I've tried using and not using the 2 side rear main seal rubber strips but to no avail. The leak has gotten smaller without the 2 side seals but it's still dripping. I also hear that the 68 440, maybe others, has a design flaw in the seal as well.  What are y'all's solutions?

[Kern Dog]

Here is my combination and so far, it stays looking like this:



The rear main seal retainer has the 2 piece seal but NO gaskets in the sides of it, just this:



The pan gaskets are Fel Pro black fibrous. I use The Right Stuff on them too. I have a steel windage tray.
 I have an oil slinger.
Boom. It stays clean. This is the best sealing combination that I have used and will only do it this way from now on.
WARNING: The Right Stuff sticks like nothing that I have ever seen before. If I had to remove the oil pan frequently, I'd be screwed. It is hard to remove oil pans with this stuff in place.

[J-440]

 I think my mistake was using the Permatex orange gasket seal maker. Maybe I'll try that next. Preciate the help brother. 👍

[Kern Dog]

That "Right Stuff" is amazing. It even seals the valve covers like nothing that I've used before.

[John_Kunkel]

An experienced Mopar engine builder once opined that there is nothing wrong with the factory seal and that a lot of the problems arise when using the original seal retainer with the new rubber seals. The retainers were intended for use with the rope seal (dog turd) which is driven into the V-groove in the retainer, hammering the seal distorts the V-groove in the soft aluminum retainer so it won't properly hold the rubber seal. The fix is to get a new seal retainer with a fresh un-distorted V-groove or use the rope seal.