Who has had success with a roller cam big block?

[Kern Dog]

I have danced around this option for years and have yet to make the leap.
I want to but my frugal side sees the cost and it tightens my ass every time.

The lifters alone....



These are a good brand from what I have heard. What does a decent roller cam cost? The prices are all over the place. I loosely figured on $500+ for the cam. Now I'll need pushrods, a timing set, a bronze distributor drive, some means to keep fore/aft play to a minimum which means a reinforced timing cover. The fuel pump pushrod needs a bronze tip. With gaskets and other odds and ends, this is over $1700.

Why would I want to switch to a roller?
The engine in this car:



Has wiped out 2 Comp Cams in 2006 and a Mopar '528 solid in 2022. I strongly suspect that oiling was to blame since the lifters all spun in their bores as they should and I always used the proper valve springs.
My current cam is larger than I like with a power peak rated beyond where I like to run...7000 rpms. The Tremec 5 speed in the car doesn't like to shift over 6000 rpms so a cam that peaks around there is a better choice. Add to that, I'd like a smaller cam with more idle vacuum. I currently have a vacuum pump to serve the brake booster. I'd like to eliminate that and just rely on engine vacuum.
I have heard from some with successes with roller cams so it isn't as if I am blazing a trail on this one.

[metallicareload99]

I would definitely consult with someone who has a lot of experience, especially with hydraulic roller cams. I've heard about problems with lifters/lifters bleeding down, unsatisfactory lifter bore clearances. Unless there's something wrong with your current cam, I would personally be inclined to stick with it

That being said, I've put 18,000+ miles on my solid roller cam since 2017. Definitely require more maintenance in the form of lash checks, replacing valve springs, and lifters.

Both flat tappet cams I had installed in the same engine prior to the roller cam went flat FWTW

[Kern Dog]

My current combo is a 9.8 to 1 440/495 with a Lunati solid flat tappet:



For the 383/440, their RPM range is somewhere in the 4000-7400 range. It was recommended to me several years ago when I was dealing with detonation. The theory was that a bigger cam would reduce cylinder pressure to reduce the knocking. I had the engine out of the car in 2022 after I wiped out a Mopar '528 solid. I put this Lunati back in because I kept the lifters in order and it was free to use.
The car makes power but it isn't as snappy off idle as it was before with the smaller cam.
The roller cam would sure alleviate some concern about wiping out another cam and lifter set.
I've read and heard that they can still be noisy. That is a surprise. I'd hoped that a hydraulic roller would be quieter than my solid flat tappet setup.

[metallicareload99]

The roller I have is 258° @ 0.050", so I can imagine that is a bit soft down low. I would think the 493 would love the duration and the stroke would cover up anything missing down low? You have over drive, maybe change the rear gears 

I didn't find going from hydraulic flat tappet to solid roller that bad as far as noise. I am curious if a hydraulic roller wouldn't need lifters and spring changes as frequently

[Kern Dog]

There are a few reasons that switching cams is tempting.
* Roller for reliability and possible power increase.
* Better idle vacuum, allowing me to pull and stow the vacuum pump.
* Freedom to use any oil that is available.

I've seen some videos of cars with hydraulic rollers that still sound as clickity as my solid flat tappet. I was hoping that a hydraulic cam would be quieter given that it has no valve lash. One video had a Comp setup that was unusually loud, yet the Comp tech guy claimed that it was normal for their stuff.

[John_Kunkel]

Lots of disagreement on hydraulic roller tappet noise, some claim that needle bearing rollers are noisier than bushed, that some noise is from the link bars between the tappets and some claim that certain brands are prone to noise while others aren't.

I once had a Datsun 280ZX that seemed to have excessive lifter noise, turns out it was the injectors switching open and closed.  Matters not to me, the radio drowns out the noise.

[Kern Dog]

I am okay with the fact that the old cars won't be as quiet as new ones. I actually do enjoy the experience of an older car. The smells of fuel and combustion don't bother me at all.
I've just grown tired of the clackity sound of the solid flat tappet and it seemed like it would quiet down a bit with a hydraulic lifter cam, roller or flat tappet.

[metallicareload99]

Having used both bushed and needle bearing lifters, the needle bearing lifters do seem to have a "sound"

The only sound "problem" my car has is the exhaust is louder than I care for. I actually like the sound of my valve train, I would not call it clackity

[madmike]

Last summer, I rebuilt the supposedly 'rebuilt' '69 440 engine in my '68 Charger, which is just a street car.  That engine had various issues, and it had a MoPar DC hydraulic flat tappet cam in it, the 484 lift/280 duration cam I think.  The block had already been bored 0.060 over.

A few years ago (during 'Covid') I rebuilt a SBC 400, and retrofitted a roller cam to that engine, which is in my '78 K20 pickup truck.  I really like it!  I had watched too many You Tube videos showing wiped out hydraulic flat tappet cams, and was worried that if I tried to save a few bucks using one, it would just get wiped out anyway.  So, I went the more expensive roller route, even though I didn't want to spend the money...

So, last year, when I rebuilt my 0.060 over 440, I decided to install a hydraulic roller cam in it.  I hated to spend that kind of money on it, but again, I feared wiping out a flat tappet cam.  I purchased the hydraulic roller cam and many of the associated parts from 440Source, and had a good experience with them.  I used their technical assistance line a couple of times too, and they were great to deal with and knowledgeable.

On the SBC 400, I can't hear any 'noise' from the cam.  You wouldn't know it has one, just listening to it or another SBC.  On the 440 MoPar, it does sound slightly different than the engine did before, with the flat tappet cam, but I don't know why it might.  It is not noisy or clickity though, and the exhaust note sounds great.  Although I am having tuning issues, I don't believe they are cam related.

Even though swapping to roller is SO expensive, I feel it is worth it to not worry about wiping out a flat tappet cam.  It seems like no matter how careful you are, how much of an expert you may be, or how great of a mechanic, the cam still might get wiped out.  The roller just seems to alleviate a worry point...  I'd do it again!

[b5blue]

Do you know "Hughes" will warranty break in? https://www.hughesengines.com/Index/index.php

[pipeliner]

I use those with my trick flow heads and smith push rods. Do not, I mean Do not use needle type roller rockers with a roller cam. They are very noisy. Use the Mancini Harland Sharp bushed type rollers. I think they are better and stronger anyways. My engine is very very quiet with this set up.

[cdr]

These are facts, if going hydro roller get the Johnson short travel , you REALLY need to have the lifter bores bushed but some blocks are better than others & can get by without, use a mellonized oil pump gear, no big deal on the thrust button I used a 440 source alum timing cover& a nylon grind to fit button, you would need to go with a mild cam to use the springs you have , 235 ish @ .050 .500,.550 lift ish that would also shorten your RPM range, my valvetrain is a little noisy but I dont care LOL, car hauls ass. any questions just ask. also I used the very expensive Morels not the cheaper ones that you show, NEVER again will I buy their JUNK

[Derwud]

These are facts, if going hydro roller get the Johnson short travel , you REALLY need to have the lifter bores bushed but some blocks are better than others & can get by without, use a mellonized oil pump gear, no big deal on the thrust button I used a 440 source alum timing cover& a nylon grind to fit button, you would need to go with a mild cam to use the springs you have , 235 ish @ .050 .500,.550 lift ish that would also shorten your RPM range, my valvetrain is a little noisy but I dont care LOL, car hauls ass. any questions just ask. also I used the very expensive Morels not the cheaper ones that you show, NEVER again will I buy their JUNK

All of this... Yes Bush your lifter bores, especially if you are going near 600 lift (with 1.5 rockers). I will never build another engine with a flat tappet cam, not worth the headeache.

Yes, you get some valve train noise, but I can't hear it over the 2 inch Headers..

[Kern Dog]

I'm not pulling the engine to bush the lifter bores. I don't need to run at .600 lift either.

[Derwud]

I might get a little smaller cam..

[Kern Dog]

Each time I start up one of the other classics I have out back, I'm pleased with the more silent cam and lifter setup they have. I can stand in front with the hoods up with them and hear the lope of the cam but no valve lash and lifter clatter. They all have hydraulic flat tappets of moderate performance, none rev over 6000 rpms.
It seems to me that with a 4.15" stroke, I shouldn't need to run it that high to make peak power. There is a point where the heads can't flow any more, right?
The '528 was pretty strong out of the hole all the way to 6000 but this Lunati really scrams. I shift not because it feels like it is slowing but because I don't know at what point that I'd spin it to 7000 and scatter the whole thing.
I've been told that the roller lifters don't like to rev much past 6000 and for me, that is fine.

[Nacho-RT74]

Answering the initial question...

A friend of mine made it, in his 73 with 400 and KB pistons. Dunno the full setup he built thought. I can ask him if wished.