1970 Dodge Charger

[xx29440charger]

i have a 70 Charger with a 383
Car will not start
No electrical power at all...when you turn the key ...nothing.. no crank
Only makes a buzzing sound sometimes when the key is in the ignition and the door is open
Battery is good and cables have been replaced
Any help would be greatly appreciated

[Kern Dog]

You're going to need some tools. One would be a cheap multi-meter to check voltage at the battery, Despite the battery being called a 12 volt, it needs to be over that to start the car. A fully charged battery should be around 12.6 volts.
If the voltage is adequate, do the headlights light up? If so, leave them on and have someone watch them as you turn the key to start the engine.
They will either dim or not.
If they dim, the starter is getting power but it might be bad. Sometimes you can tap it with a hammer to get it to work.
If the lights do not dim, it can be several things. One is the starter relay. It could be an issue with the neutral safety switch. The transmission will need to be in PARK or NEUTRAL to allow the starter to spin. Sometimes you can move the shift lever around a bit while attempting to crank it over.

[xx29440charger]

I have no lights...only power I have is when the key is in the ignition and the door is open it makes that buzzing sound

[metallicareload99]

Fusible link.

Did it run before? Like mentioned, a voltage-ohm meter would be helpful to see where you are getting power to. Start at the battery and work your way to the ignition switch

[xx29440charger]

I started the car last week with no problems

[70 sublime]

Try turning the key to start it and move the gear shifter at the same time to see if the nss is getting worn and get any life out of the ignition

[Kern Dog]

It can be extremely hard to help someone when they know very little about mechanical things.
It compares to people that speak different languages trying to have a conversation.
In this case, people here will try to help but if the OP knows nothing or very little, our words will be difficult to understand.
If you're going to own an old car, you need to at least know how to diagnose and fix the simple things. Without a knowledge of the basics, you will always be at a disadvantage.
Electrical systems can fail immediately. New cars sometimes have failures with sensors and computers that worked fine but then failed.
Old cars are much simpler to diagnose and fix. Your car has 60 year old analog technology in it that worked great when new and can still work great today.
With electrical stuff, sometimes it is as simple as a loose wire connection that stops you dead. Wiggling wires at the various connections sometimes restores power. Twisting the battery terminals achieves the same thing.
You really do need some way to test battery voltage. Harbor Freight has some low cost stuff that works okay.

[John_Kunkel]

I have no lights...only power I have is when the key is in the ignition and the door is open it makes that buzzing sound

Is the car equipped with lights on warning buzzer?

[xx29440charger]

No
The lights do not have to be on for the buzzer to go off. The door has to be open and the key has to be in the ignition

[LaOtto70Charger]

Pop your engine hood. Than open your car door. Dome light should go on. Turn on your headlights with the door still open and no key in ignition. The lights on buzzer should go off.  Headlights should be nice and bright.  Headlight doors should stay down. If lights and buzzer are not on clean battery cable cable connection and reattch. If all is tight there and still no headlights make sure battery is above 12 volts. If not recharge battery. If voltage is good get a multimeter and start tracing voltage. 

If your headlights were nice and bright turn key to ignition with headlights still on. Doors should open. If they do switch is at least partially ok.

If above still checks and you have an automatic, put your foot on the brake and go to neutral. Try starting. May have to turn the key back and forth a few times quickly. Mine had a period of time where it wouldn't start in park periodically but still would from neutral.

The above lights, buzzer, and headlight door suggestions I just checked on my 70 as a reference.

[xx29440charger]

Thank you all so much for your feedback.
I have traced the problem to the bulkhead.After turning the headlights  on (they were not previously going on )I wiggled the bulkhead and pushed it in and the lights went on and then the car started.

[xx29440charger]

I'm looking to replace the bulkhead and Upgrade the system, I am currently using a distributor with points
I'm wondering if they have a kit or can somebody recommend a replacement for that bulkhead?

[Kern Dog]

The bulkhead design works fine when the contact points are kept clean and the connections are good. I have two 1970 Chargers, a 67 Dart and a few other old Mopars. When the systems are kept clean and connected properly, they hold up well. Any alternative would require a complete rewire of your car and as it appears, that is a bit outside of your level of comfort to do. The further you deviate from stock, the fewer people there will be out there to provide assistance.

[LaOtto70Charger]

If you read up on the electronics page there is some good write ups on improvements like the fleet upgrade. Using a thicker cable from the alternator to the ammeter (potentially changed to voltmeter or bypass it) as one solid line. If you haven't done much tinkering find a good local mechanic by checking out some car shows.  Minimum they could check the wiring as it is and clean the bulkhead connector.