High voltage alt and ammeter question

[LaOtto70Charger]

So I installed a high output alternator with a line directly from the alternator to the ammeter. So bulkhead connector is now bypassed. I need to bump my idle speed to 800 as this alt is supposed to make 70 amps there. If I read everything right my ammeter should still be ok and probably better off as my voltage shouldn't be going all over the place now.  Or am I nuts?

[metallicareload99]

What do you need the high output alternator to power? Instead of running a wire to the ammeter, I would rather have a heavy gauge wire ran directly to the battery 

[b5blue]

What size wire?

[LaOtto70Charger]

If I remember right it is 8 gauge wire.
For electrical almost everything is stock. I have an electric choke, electric fuel pressure gauge, and an accessory plug for a cell phone charger.  Everything else is stock 70 318 with ac.

Only reason for higher output alternator is so when I stop at a intersection the alt keeps primary and not draining the battery. Even without lights on it would discharge.  Than when I start moving again 20+ amps to recharge.

[b5blue]

With an inline fuse it should be fine.

[Gold Rush]

Remember, the alternator will only be supplying enough current to satisfy the load you car's demand is needing.

I understand your concern about the ammeter showing discharge at low engine RPMs.  That is normal and not an issue as long as your battery is in good condition..

If the new alternator is capable of 70 amps at 800 RPM you will still only be putting out what the system is asking for.

[b5blue]

Look up "Fleet upgrade" adding an 8ga to existing harness. I'm running a Denso 120amp Alt. that puts out 60-70 amps at idle. No more see/sawing ALT gauge.

[metallicareload99]

Remember, the alternator will only be supplying enough current to satisfy the load you car's demand is needing.

I understand your concern about the ammeter showing discharge at low engine RPMs.  That is normal and not an issue as long as your battery is in good condition..

If the new alternator is capable of 70 amps at 800 RPM you will still only be putting out what the system is asking for.

bypassing the bulkhead connector running the wire from the alternator to the ammeter should solve any potential issues. I think it would be more effective to run it directly to the battery with a fuse

[b5blue]

I installed all new harness front to back AND did the "fleet upgrade" then installed 40amp relays to keep heavy loads out of the dash area. 

[nchrome]

looking for a little advice my alt gauge once in a while will show over charge then go back to mormal. Now l've changed the voltage regulator and a new battery. my negative post is a little loose on purpose but l will tighten it up to see if that maybe the problem. Any other ideas would be appreciated

[70 sublime]

If it is the original style regulator when you notice it over charging can you get out of the car and tap on it to see if it is just stuck ?

[b5blue]

Why would you have a loose post? (Just VERY wrong!) The main danger is feeding full amps back to the battery through the gauge if battery is somewhat discharged.

[Nacho-RT74]

What do you need the high output alternator to power? Instead of running a wire to the ammeter, I would rather have a heavy gauge wire ran directly to the battery 

No

[Nacho-RT74]

Remember, the alternator will only be supplying enough current to satisfy the load you car's demand is needing.

I understand your concern about the ammeter showing discharge at low engine RPMs.  That is normal and not an issue as long as your battery is in good condition..

If the new alternator is capable of 70 amps at 800 RPM you will still only be putting out what the system is asking for.

bypassing the bulkhead connector running the wire from the alternator to the ammeter should solve any potential issues. I think it would be more effective to run it directly to the battery with a fuse

There is no need for that. Once the weakest point is saved at bulkhead, with a higher amp alt tye batt won't need suply the regular power requirements anymore, so just the alt power is enough. Then no need to bypass the ammeter or run to the batt

[Nacho-RT74]

So I installed a high output alternator with a line directly from the alternator to the ammeter. So bulkhead connector is now bypassed. I need to bump my idle speed to 800 as this alt is supposed to make 70 amps there. If I read everything right my ammeter should still be ok and probably better off as my voltage shouldn't be going all over the place now.  Or am I nuts?

You are fine.

[70 sublime]

I have always had the negative batter post loose on my car with zero problems
When ever I park the car for the night inside a building I always pop the hood and pull the cable off the battery just to be sure no electrical fires and peace of mind

[John_Kunkel]

What do you need the high output alternator to power? Instead of running a wire to the ammeter, I would rather have a heavy gauge wire ran directly to the battery 

No

Disagree, less connectors is less chance for a faulty connection. I always run a 6 ga. wire directly to the nut on the positive lug at the battery cable. This does make the ammeter non functional but a small voltmeter can monitor the system.