Dash Ground

[Charger jUNkiE]

So I got a new wiring harness and I am slowly installing it.  I'm also taking my time to make sure the new harness matches the old one and matches the wiring diagrams in the F.S.M.  The question I have is something that came up when checking the grounding for the door switches and several other items that activate upon ground signals being signaled or patched through when the doors open.  It appears there is a left side loop and a right side loop pre (all yellow wire)  and post (yellow with a black tracer) from the door switches.  On the pre side a ground has to be coming from somewhere and I traced it back to the dimmer switch.  However if you rotate the switch up the switch opens and all ground connections are opened at that time.  This seems odd because how are other items other then lights still getting a ground when its time for them to activate.  My eyes are going crossed and my F.S.M. is falling apart from flipping back and forth between pages to trace a wire.  Maybe I'm obsessing but I want to double check everything before the dash goes back into the car.  Its out and easy to work on now.  Also I want to possibly add or modify any connections to improve if possible some of Mopars wiring from the 70's .  Lights dimming, connectors melting etc.

(1970 Charger 500 SE)

[birdsandbees]

If the cluster isn't screwed in... you need a jumper wire from it's frame to body ground to make some shit work, especially wiper motor parking.

[70 sublime]

If you want to impove something on the factory wiring you might want to consider putting some relays in the head light circuit up close to the headlights  Use the power wire in the harness that would normally be the power for the head lights to trip the relay and then run power from the battery to the relay to run the light bulbs .  This will cut down on the bigest amount of power going through the firewall conections that cause a lot of the melted wires

[b5blue]

I use relays for wiper/fan A/C and any high draw items. Look at the ignition switch, high draw bakes the red wire in that long connector.  (I use a non standard connector there.)