Front door glass - Channel Seals and pins

[armor64]

hi everyone, does anyone know where i can get the front seal Mylar strips and glass guide/slides for the 68-70 B Bodies? i cant seem to find it in stock anywhere. getting ready to install the door glass and vent assembly.

classic industries
https://www.classicindustries.com/product/1968/dodge/charger/parts/mn3104.html

mrmoparts
http://www.mrmoparts.net/products/division-bar-liner-67-74-a-body-66-70-b-body-sold-as-pair.html

not in stock, and cant find anything on ebay or the like.

thanks all!

[green69rt]

The strips that go between the door glass and the front Guide are long gone. unobtanium!   Here's the thread when I did my doors, look at reply #10.  Other have threads that I used.  Good luck.

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,130202.0.html

[armor64]

Dang, bad news, ok thanks I'll see what I can find, good read on that link for sure

[69bfan]

The manufacturer / vendor for the reproduction mylar strips has not had any since I would say September of 2020.  As a result, nobody has any other than possibly private individuals who purchased them and have not used them.  I am getting almost a call or two per day asking for them.  I had two sets of damaged ones and a restoration shop snapped them up last Thursday knowing that he could use them for the pop out window applications on the sedans.  The prices for these pieces will easily double in the months to come for them and the original strips will easily bring $300 plus per side.

[armor64]

The manufacturer / vendor for the reproduction mylar strips has not had any since I would say September of 2020.  As a result, nobody has any other than possibly private individuals who purchased them and have not used them.  I am getting almost a call or two per day asking for them.  I had two sets of damaged ones and a restoration shop snapped them up last Thursday knowing that he could use them for the pop out window applications on the sedans.  The prices for these pieces will easily double in the months to come for them and the original strips will easily bring $300 plus per side.

oh man that's even worse, plus with the bad luck I'm having with aftermarket seals, who know what would work in the future.

ill keep an eye out on kijiji and the like.
thanks

[69bfan]

@armor64, Please explain the issue with the roof rail seals, this is the first that I have heard of the issue.  Not sure if you might have gotten the wrong style, but we would have worked with you to get the correct pieces.  Not saying that there may be an issue, but have not seen or heard of that issue with the 68 to 70 B-Body roof rail seals from Metro, Soff Seal or Steele.

[armor64]

@armor64, Please explain the issue with the roof rail seals, this is the first that I have heard of the issue.  Not sure if you might have gotten the wrong style, but we would have worked with you to get the correct pieces.  Not saying that there may be an issue, but have not seen or heard of that issue with the 68 to 70 B-Body roof rail seals from Metro, Soff Seal or Steele.

ill take the pictures when i get back from work, i believe the part number was RR4001-A, metro super-soft.

basically, I started the seal install into the channel from the "welded" joint in the upper corner, and when its completely installed, the notch that is supposed to be in the front bottom corner of the trim is way past it, as if its for a roofline that is alot taller (C-body maybe?)

the other seal LM23 door seals fit perfectly, every clip ans screw hole lined up better than i could have dreamed!

anyway, ill post up tonight to make it clearer for sure.

thanks
Morgan

[69bfan]

The RR 4001-A is the 68-70 B-Body hardtop roof rail seals.  I can provide you an email address if you should find it easier to email me the pictures.

Thanks for the update.

[armor64]

Sorry for the delay, it looks like it was only 1 of the 2 roof seals, the passenger side was perfect. my dad had already fixed the issue when i got back from toronto, he compared the length to the uninstalled seal, cut the difference from the join at the top corner, and re-sealed it with some old school adhesive he had back in the day.
I also removed the "negative" info from the other message, its not your fault at all, the seals and other parts from you have been perfect, and i appreciate your speed and willingness to help!

[69bfan]

@armor64, thanks for the update.  Sorry for the frustrations and glad that you were able to overcome the issue.  Having been involved in the manufacturing, supplying and selling these parts, issues will come up over the 30 years.  We try to resolve them as we know about them.  Without input from our customers, we do not know issues.  Without critical assessment of a product, we may never know the quality of a product.  From customer feedback, there is a number of items that are sorely needed, but I will not sell due to issues with the product.

Good luck with the car and hope that the car brings years of enjoyment!!!

[green69rt]

Some thoughts on installation.  OEM seals are curved to match the profile of the window glass.  Also, the white plastic retainers have been complained about as being too big making it hard to slide the seal over the glass, you may need to sand them down to make them fit better or just use the OEM ones.  Repros are straight.  Why is this a problem?  Because installation is to slide the strip on to the window then slide the assembly into the track.  Because the seal is straight it tends to catch and tear on the window foot at the bottom of the channel  or on the sharp corners of the window track or, just, from handling too much..  Poof, $50 gone!  These things are expensive and fragile.

Edit - make that Poof, $150 gone!

[birdsandbees]

Fifty dollars gone.... that'd be at least $300 a side these days if someone is willing to cough up a hoarded set of OEM's!  Reproductions, the cheap straight ones, were selling for $110 a pair before the supply dried up.

[69bfan]

Watch out for $300 price tag on the reproductions if you have a set available.  Just like a couple of years ago when the 68 to 70 B-Body windshield gaskets went out of production for two years.  If you had one, they were bringing $300 to $500 per gasket.  If your car has been painted and in the assembly stage, do you sit out for six months to two years hoping that something comes available?  Heck, we have been waiting since late June for some of the material used for the window felts, ETAs at this time does not mean anything.

[birdsandbees]

I figure if I sold my spares Richard I'd need them next month myself... but some $$$'s on the other hand... 

[chargernut69]

Hi all....  Getting ready to install these in my '69 Charger....

What should you lubricate the front/rear run channel guides with ?  Silicone spray ?  Synthetic grease ?   WD40 ?

[armor64]

unfortunately for me i couldn't get the strips, so i built up layers of tessa harness tape on the edge so it was just shy of snug before installing it on the car then sprayed with silicone lube. i 3D Printed the guides to work with a metal pin in it for strength to stop it from pulling back. there is slight wind noise but it got the car on the road for a bit before the snow... hopefully i can get good ones someday

[armor64]

Good News Everyone! *takes off Futurama Farnsworth glasses*

Ive got my new Vertical window seals in hand, part 2932230 to make searches easier again, I have no idea when they started remaking them but Detroit Muscle Technologies strikes again it seems?

Does anyone know if the glass can be pulled out of the doors without fully disassembling them? to get the glass out of the top of the Vent window channel instead of the bottom?

my passenger side that i used fabric TESSA tape to make a temp slide seal has worked well enough from last year,but looking forward to eliminating some of the rain/noise leaking now.

thanks all!

 

[armor64]

howdy folks, in case it can help anyone. I was able to remove the window without a total disassembly of the door. I had nailed my window seal/vent alignment and didn't want to re-do it by removing the vent with the door glass, so did the following: NOTE, this may not be the best way, but it was perfect for me not breaking anything.

1 - inside door handle removal
2 - remove armrest screws and chrome base plates
3 - panel popper to remove the door panel (I hated this, a few clips ripped through the particle board.... sadly)
4 - removed upper door pad
5 - removed inner window sweeper on upper door edge (to clear channel attached to bottom of glass)
6 - remove upper vent window rubber stop with 1 phillips screw at top edge
7 - remove upper vent window frame assembly screw holding vertical channel to front frame (just under rubber up stopper)
8 - gently pried the vent rubber off the vertical frame, and jammed in a pair of pliers to clear the opening for the glass to come out (pic 1 showing new vertical seal installed also)
9 - could not remove the plastic rivet holding bottom channel to glass, so unbolted the regulators 3 bolts
10 - push the regulator towards back edge of channel, popping wheel free and freeing glass in channel
11 - pulled glass up to top of door, slid it up past the opening and cleared to work.
12 - pic 2 - the 1/4 in bolts and TESSA tape seal i used to get car on the road, sounded terrible rolling up and down, with the bolt scraping the channel, but it was functional enough until the new seals were available again.
13 - punched 2 oval holes for the slide pins to push through the glass, the seals are 4in too long, but i didn't have to cut them as they didnt hit the bottom of door when rolled down, so YYMV
14 - once the plastic slides are pinned and holding the seal onto the glass, fed the excess bottom into the top of channel beside pliers and slid window back into vent and rear channel.
15 - pushed regulator wheel back into window channel on bottom of glass and bolted reg back in with 3 bolts.
16 - test rolling up and down, blissfully silent for first time since getting car on the road.
17 - reassemble

if you can easily remove the plastic clip the glass would slip out without removing the reg or top inner sweeper, but i needed to and didn't want to break anything. All in all, it took about 20 mins to do each side, the longest part was taking off the door panel while cursing every time a clip broke out....

i cant wait to hear the wind noise be slightly lower with actual seals now lol.
 
Morgan 

[Charger_Dart]

Thank you for posting this Morgan, I did not know anyone started to repop these!