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cam shaft choice for more vacuum

Started by willy, December 03, 2010, 01:31:49 PM

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willy

I have a 1968 charger r/t with the 440 hp automatic. The guy I bought the car from said it had a mild cam in it. I only get about 15" of vacuum at idle and am getting tired of not having enough for the power drum brakes to work properly. What cam could I put in to give me more vacuum?
Thanks,
Willy

elacruze

15" of vacuum should be enough, if everything else is up to spec. Of course, this is subjective.
What's your base timing? What else can you tell us about the engine, cam grind, static compression, etc?
1968 505" EFI 4-speed
1968 D200 Camper Special, 318/2bbl/4spd/4.10
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Torque converters are for construction equipment.

BigBlockSam

i had to put a vacuum can in my hotrod for the brakes. there only about $40 at summit  :cheers:
I won't be wronged, I wont be Insulted and I wont be laid a hand on. I don't do these things to others, and I require the same from them.

  [IMG]http://i45.tinypic.com/347b5v5.jpg[/img

red79

if the brakes aren't working with 15" of vacuum, i'd check the system for vacuum leaks and make sure there's no air in the lines.

in general, switching to a cam with more lobe separation (LSA) will increase the amount of vacuum the engine makes  :Twocents:

Sixt8Chrgr

15" of vacuum should be enough to work your brakes. Check your booster for leaks.

62 Max

Only have 12" on the bird and they work fine.

green69rt

Agree with the above comments,  I'd make sure the vacuum system is tight before taking on the cam shaft.  I had the same car in my youth (440/auto) with a pretty hefty cam (292/292/72) and never had a problem with vacuum.  I had a bigger problem because I kept the stock TC.

willy

Thanks for the input. If 15" is enough I must have a vacuum leak. My booster was rebuilt last year so it should be fine. It only seems to be a problem when i first start it up and am backing it out of the garage. After that the brakes seem ok.
Willy