Aftermarket headlight, wiper, and dash dimmer switch reviews needed

[marshallfry01]

I'm currently restoring my gauge cluster. (69 383 car) The chrome on all of the switches needs redone. I have no idea what all worked and didn't work before because I bought the car in boxes. In theory, new is always best but I know how shitty aftermarket parts can be. Has anyone had good luck out of new OE style switches for headlight, wiper, dash dimmer, etc? I would like to have all new if they are good quality. If not, I'll plan on using my originals. The car will have all new M&H wiring harnesses, so I would like for the switches to be new as well.

[pipeliner]

I'm currently restoring my gauge cluster. (69 383 car) The chrome on all of the switches needs redone. I have no idea what all worked and didn't work before because I bought the car in boxes. In theory, new is always best but I know how shitty aftermarket parts can be. Has anyone had good luck out of new OE style switches for headlight, wiper, dash dimmer, etc? I would like to have all new if they are good quality. If not, I'll plan on using my originals. The car will have all new M&H wiring harnesses, so I would like for the switches to be new as well.

Have you just thought about just buying the new chrome dash knob switch? I'm thinking that's why I did except for my headlight switch. I bought it NOS as they are still plenty of those out there.

[marshallfry01]

I'm currently restoring my gauge cluster. (69 383 car) The chrome on all of the switches needs redone. I have no idea what all worked and didn't work before because I bought the car in boxes. In theory, new is always best but I know how shitty aftermarket parts can be. Has anyone had good luck out of new OE style switches for headlight, wiper, dash dimmer, etc? I would like to have all new if they are good quality. If not, I'll plan on using my originals. The car will have all new M&H wiring harnesses, so I would like for the switches to be new as well.

Have you just thought about just buying the new chrome dash knob switch? I'm thinking that's why I did except for my headlight switch. I bought it NOS as they are still plenty of those out there.

I didn't know I could buy the chrome pieces separate. I'll see if I can find some.

[Lennard]

I bought my new chrome knobs from Classic Industries 

[devinism]

I have rebuilt hundreds ( possibly a thousand?) MoPar switches for customers, and shops, worldwide. MUCH safer than repros from Ch..

On quite a few of the B Body switches I have installed the chrome knob kits. The knobs fit ok after some mods.

Devin Duke
Wagoner OK

devinism on Feebay and other MoPar sites

[marshallfry01]

The plastic knob kit just came in from classic. Looks like the headlight and 3 speed wiper switch knobs are going to be a pain to get off. I worked on the wiper switch for awhile last night trying to get the pin out with no success. I guess I'll attempt to use a drimel tool to get that rocker switch off. 

[devinism]

Use a small drift or punch to remove the pin from the wiper switch. A little WD40 helps sometimes.

The Charger headlight switch is a little tougher, but if you're not trying to save the old one it makes it easier. Break the arm off flush with the chrome knob. Find where the factory pin would come out, if it were a through pin. A small drill bit it that area will reveal the factory pin. Once you see it you can drive it out.
Once the pin has been removed I taper the head of it to help align it with the holes.

I also use a small strip of foam weatherseal on the inside of the new knob, to keep it from rattling as they fit rather loosely.

The flasher knob needs its holes lengthened some to fit on the switch.

The washer button needs something inserted inside of it. If you don't do that the knob base bottoms out before the switch makes contact internally.

[marshallfry01]

Use a small drift or punch to remove the pin from the wiper switch. A little WD40 helps sometimes.

The Charger headlight switch is a little tougher, but if you're not trying to save the old one it makes it easier. Break the arm off flush with the chrome knob. Find where the factory pin would come out, if it were a through pin. A small drill bit it that area will reveal the factory pin. Once you see it you can drive it out.
Once the pin has been removed I taper the head of it to help align it with the holes.

I also use a small strip of foam weatherseal on the inside of the new knob, to keep it from rattling as they fit rather loosely.

The flasher knob needs its holes lengthened some to fit on the switch.

The washer button needs something inserted inside of it. If you don't do that the knob base bottoms out before the switch makes contact internally.

I can tell you've done this a time or two! Everything you're telling me so far is exactly what I've had to do. This is one of those projects that takes longer than expected on your first try. If I ever do another one I could do it in less than half the time. Oh well, learn something new everyday.