1972 charger a/c question

[boardog]

i have added the newer sanden compressor to the 72 charger along with the correct brackets for the 440 engine. i would like to know how others that have done this ran their lines and what lines needed to be deleted. the car had a 318 and  factory a/c and the aftermarket kits move the expansion valve to under the dash. this car was torn apart when i got it and i have no reference pics. i have the assembly manual but it does not cover a/c stuff.
i have most of the old a/c lines and i think i have the wrong receiver/dryer bracket. the expansion valve has a small copper line with a fitting on it and another line that i figure out. can anyone post a pic of how the valve goes in the car?  thanks in advance

[John_Kunkel]

Do you have a FSM? Section 24 has illustrations that might help.

Be advised that using the Sanden compressor with factory A/C requires the addition of a compressor clutch cycling switch.

[b5blue]

Get in touch with Classic Auto Air.

[boardog]

i did get in touch with classic auto air. i think i can use a combo of aftermarket stuff and original stuff to make it work, thanks

[Nacho-RT74]

If car is factory A/C you won’t need a full kit for it. Hard lines are the same, but the lenght of the hoses is what really changes between BB and SB. I guess the kit and compressor is thought for the R134 refrigerant. Stock replacement pieces (expansion valve and dryer) are available at Rockauto ready for R134 refrigerant (contact  the customers service to confirm which ones of the ones they offer are). I guess A/C lines must be readapted anyway for the new Sanden compressor no matter if being fro Bb or SB and… since will need to be “modified” would be the moment to get upgraded the rubber lines with newer hoses ready for R134 (with double hose barrier due the smaller molecules the R134 refrigerant gets).

About the on/off ciclying. B bodies got an EPR valve on RV2 compressor what graduated the refrigerant pressure into ghe lines to adjust the refrigerant temp getting into the cab, so the clutch was allways activated BUT on the refrigerant upgrade, the R134 refrigerant requires a diff level pressure rate so this valve requires to be eliminated and replaced by the clutch compressor on/off cycling switch. A bodies got this switch setup from factory, so you can emulate the same A body setup with the temp bulb inserted into the evaporator core like A bodies got althought the upgrade jobs sugestt to wrapp it around one of the metal A/C lines close to the firewall. I have SOMEWHERE the info about that A body setup. I know I posted this info before

[Nacho-RT74]

 BTW, there are also aluminium condensers as stock replacements exact pieces to the factory iron ones. That would be a nice upgrade too get a faster refrigerant cooling process.

Everything of this if you think on keep the factory look AND being easier to install having the stock provisions on car... no extra jobs required to adapt anything.

[boardog]

one of my issues is the expansion valve. the factory suction line has a fitting for the line coming from the expansion valve to be screwed on near the firewall. the fitting on the suction hose that connects to the evaporator near the fire wall is a #12 fitting. if i make up a new hose you use a smaller hose. i think it's a #8 hose. the factory fitting can not be reused. i can bring a new suction hose from the compressor to the firewall but how do you work in a expansion valve?

[Nacho-RT74]

Why don’t get the factory replacement? Is available yet. If using R134 refrigerant, request for that at shop.

Factory hoses can be redone using factory fittings. Easier to get them made than adapt anything.

72 tech info whee you can see how the on/off cycle was made on A body againts B bodies… dunno what gets the sanden unit. I guess by what John says, it will require the temp switch (he knows better than me for sure)… hence why I mention the A body setup to be emulated imto the B body.

https://www.mymopar.com/downloads/mtsc/295.pdf

Scanning of the R134 conversion on a mopar mag I have where you can see how the hoses rebuild job is made reusing the factory fittings

https://postimg.cc/gallery/ChwjbjB

AAAAAND there are several threads about the conversion on the board.

I’m talking about refrigerant conversion because the job about the hoses job is pretty much similar to any adapting job… except if you get a guaranteed plug and play kit.

IMHO the easier is get adapted any piece to factory pieces and locations and not backwards. In that way you can allways get back one step and retry.

[John_Kunkel]

Many of the factory rubber lines have a dedicated flange fitting at the compressor and it's not compatible with the Sanden threaded O ring fittings. A good shop can mate the factory fittings to the new barrier hose when needed and install contemporary fittings when needed.