Daytona Fender Scoop Broken Stud Extraction Help

[RSI700VIPER]

So I finally bought my first Daytona after many years of looking and started to take care of a few housekeeping things.  While driving, I noticed light coming from the front edge of the scoop thinking the front mounting stud needed tightening.  I wish that were the case.  I pulled the scoop and found that the front stud is broken.  I was able to grab the stud "stub" with vise grips but the stud just spins and doesn't unscrew out like I was hoping.  Does the stud have some kind of head or bolt cap that prevents it from unscrewing out?  Any recommendations what to do next?   
Thanks.

[nascarxx29]

I think the stud has a shoulder?Not just all thread in its mounting.?
My guess would be If possible maybe a small hole drilled in and point of a soldering iron providing a mild warm and a extractor and penatrating solvent to unscrew it.Can you remove any other stud to measure and to see if its threaded all the way or smooth and glued or pressed in.Hopefully someone else had had this to deal with and has a technique .

As you described only spins but won't come out maybe a stack.of washers slight tighten and measure if it's coming up any

[nascarxx29]

This guy had 3 broke off maybe he can help
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php?topic=33674.0

I recall you got Dave's green 440 6 superbird .Can you share any back history on the daytona in your restoration

[RSI700VIPER]

This guy had 3 broke off maybe he can help
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php?topic=33674.0

I recall you got Dave's green 440 6 superbird .Can you share any back history on the daytona in your restoration

When I bought Dave's superbird, it was essentially a roller.  The car was painted and most of the interior was done.  Up to the point of selling the car, Dave did such a high level of restoration including many NOS parts that I had to continue down that path. The superbird is now complete but is basically a trailer queen.  I do not plan to restore the Daytona to this level, instead it's to be driven and enjoyed.  I have history back to 1977 and it's all matching numbers.  The paint is older but presents well. I'm just cleaning up things in the interior with a fresh carpet, and a few other odds and ends.  The only thing that needs attention from my point of view is the center of the trunk pan.  I plan to get a 1-piece pan but only go from the inside of the rear rails to hide the butt seam on top of the rail flange.  The cut down pan will fit through the trunk opening but not sure I will to complete the job.  I would like to post pictures of both cars but it's a total PITA trying to deal with only 400KB of picture file size.                  

[RSI700VIPER]

1

[nascarxx29]

I'm very familiar with that 4 speed Daytona. I drove it for about a month. My friend sold it to Doug

[b5blue]

I think the stud has a shoulder?Not just all thread in its mounting.?
My guess would be If possible maybe a small hole drilled in and point of a soldering iron providing a mild warm and a extractor and penatrating solvent to unscrew it.Can you remove any other stud to measure and to see if its threaded all the way or smooth and glued or pressed in.Hopefully someone else had had this to deal with and has a technique .

As you described only spins but won't come out maybe a stack.of washers slight tighten and measure if it's coming up any

Perhaps flood with super glue to seize bolt and call it good on a irreplaceable part. 

[RSI700VIPER]

I'm very familiar with that 4 speed Daytona. I drove it for about a month. My friend sold it to Doug

I tried to send you a PM but your mailbox is full   

Would like to know more about the history if you can send me a PM.
Thanks.

[BS27ROB]

To the original question, when I repaired my pair I found the remainder was a socket head cap screw and I made a small annular cutter to carefully cut through the plastic to remove it. I'll see if I can find pictures.

[RSI700VIPER]

To the original question, when I repaired my pair I found the remainder was a socket head cap screw and I made a small annular cutter to carefully cut through the plastic to remove it. I'll see if I can find pictures.

That would be very helpful.  I'm glad I didn't just use a lot of force and pull the stud straight out.   I may have cracked the scoop in two.  There is not a lot of material on the post.  How did you remove the stud without cutting the whole post off?  I'm surprised I actually got the stud to spin with vise grips if the stud has a hex head.     

[nascarxx29]

On the bottom underside of scoop should be a part number 3412670 and Johad the maker.If not then maybe you got reproduced scoops that have different fasteners

[RSI700VIPER]

On the bottom underside of scoop should be a part number 3412670 and Johad the maker.If not then maybe you got reproduced scoops that have different fasteners

That part number and JO AD is there.  Also LH and a few other numbers. 

[nascarxx29]

Those be the originals

[held1823]

 I would like to post pictures of both cars but it's a total PITA trying to deal with only 400KB of picture file size.                  

This will take a couple of steps but this old Microsoft program is perfect for resizing and compressing photos.
I much prefer it over the crappy app that replaced it and you can't beat the price.
MAKE SURE you make a copy of the photo first as this will change the original file.
Just right click, copy, and paste. Make the changes to the copied photo to maintain your full sized original

Pretty sure this link explains what to open and then run from the program. If not, just search for better instructions online.

https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/office/where-is-picture-manager-58837c3e-34db-4904-95e8-4eca7b7c5730

Beautiful car, congratulations on the score.

[nascarxx29]

I had these pictures when it was at my house for a month. Never touched fender scoops only looked for the metal mesh in the cut out opening as found on daytonas. Took the whole nose inside on top of pool table to bench test headlight mechs and lights

[RSI700VIPER]

I had these pictures when it was at my house for a month. Never touched fender scoops only looked for the metal mesh in the cut out opening as found on daytonas. Took the whole nose inside on top of pool table to bench test headlight mechs and lights

And they still work great!  Thanks for sharing the pictures.  About what year was that?     

[nascarxx29]

I 1990s I think And 1978 vintage

[hemi68charger]

...                

Good God, when I see V2 with a white stripe and wing it makes me wanna change mine........ But, mine has been around the world and known as is......... But Lordy, the white looks so good and different....

[nascarxx29]

There is a factory document along with shiplist  that has stripe color info

[426HemiChick]

I think the stud has a shoulder?Not just all thread in its mounting.?
My guess would be If possible maybe a small hole drilled in and point of a soldering iron providing a mild warm and a extractor and penatrating solvent to unscrew it.Can you remove any other stud to measure and to see if its threaded all the way or smooth and glued or pressed in.Hopefully someone else had had this to deal with and has a technique .

As you described only spins but won't come out maybe a stack.of washers slight tighten and measure if it's coming up any

Hi nascarxx29,               29 September 2022

We think you are on the right track. Our guess, from looking at the underside of the scoop, the scoops were made in a mold, the studs were placed in the mold and the resin was injected into the mold. The studs most likely had splines on the lower part of the stud imbedded in the resin. There's most likely a small area below the flange that is smooth. When the stud turned in the resin, it basically reamed the area where the splines contacted the resin but didn't clean the hole where the smooth part of the stud shaft is in contact with the resin. This is probably why it turns but doesn't come out.

Someone mentioned drilling a small hole and applying heat. Think the small hole is ok but heat is a no go. If it were us, we'd get a hypodermic syringe and a needle with the sharp tip ground off, load it with epoxy resin and inject it into the hole. You should have two small holes in the area holding the stud. One to inject into and the other to allow air to escape and for the resin to seep out when the inside void is filled. Before injecting anything in the holes, use compressed air to blow out some of the loose material inside the void. Then inject your resin in the bottom hole to force resin to fill all the void. Once done put tape over the holes to keep the resin from leaking out. Once it has set up, remove the tape from the holes. Think good electrical tape should work and will be easy to remove.

Unless the threaded part of the stud is broken off, there should be no reason to take the stud out. Just do as above.

Have not tried this on Bird or Daytona scoops. Only had a Daytona and never had a problem with them. You might want to do an experiment before working on your Bird's scoop. Get a round  piece of clear Plexiglas, drill a hole down through the center about 3/4' deep and using a drill bit a bit larger than a small test screw you can insert in the hole. Drill your two small holes in the side of the Plexiglas rod then put the test screw in the vertical hole, then inject the resin in the bottom side hole. You should be able to see the resin fill the void. Let it set up and then see if the screw is held well enough. Use a machine screw that only has threads part way up the bolt/screw's shaft. This will mimic what they did at the factory that made the scoops.

Hope this makes sense.

If it doesn't, PM us and we can talk on the phone.

Best Always

426 Hemi Chicks

[nascarxx29]

Vendor for the superbird scoops The fender scoops had the wording Jo-Ad on the underside.And again tried out the web in a search for another wingcar related vendors.And found this company that did plastic injection from 1957.They possibly could have been the vendor that creative used for the wing scoops http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,45448.0.html
http://www.jo-ad.com/
JO-AD Industries is a manufacturer of injection molded plastic, stamped metal parts, tooling and assemblies. Since 1957 we have been supplying our customers with on time, quality components, meeting the prototype and low volume production requirements of the automotive, transportation, appliance, and related industries.
JO-AD Industries, Inc. 31465 Stephenson Highway, Madison Heights, Michigan 48071-1683
Phone. 248.588.4810 | Fax. 248.588.3448 | Email: info@jo-ad.com

info@jo-ad.com

[BS27ROB]

Sorry to have taken so long to post. You can see the homemade cutter, the removed head, the replacement socket head cap screw, the plastic remaining in the socket of the removed head and the evidence of where the remaining plastic twisted off in the bottom of some of the holes.

[426HemiChick]

Sorry to have taken so long to post. You can see the homemade cutter, the removed head, the replacement socket head cap screw, the plastic remaining in the socket of the removed head and the evidence of where the remaining plastic twisted off in the bottom of some of the holes.

Hi BS27ROB,               04 October 2022

Congratulations on a nifty and useful tool.

When replacing the stud, stainless steel cap screws would be a good investment. I know, not original but who cares at this point.

Best Always

426 Hemi Chicks

[BS27ROB]

Thanks, it's nothing fancy but all it has to do is cut plastic. As far as the stainless, other than washing, my car doesn't get wet often enough to worry about. LOL

[WINGIN IT]

There is a factory document along with shiplist  that has stripe color info

Where is this document available ?