what alternator to get?

[LaOtto70Charger]

I got from that same place. Not the mega Amp one though. A high Amp one, that their specs said 55 amps at idle. So questioning now if the regulator just isn't switching until engine speed is up.

[BrianShaughnessy]

I got from that same place. Not the mega Amp one though. A high Amp one, that their specs said 55 amps at idle. So questioning now if the regulator just isn't switching until engine speed is up.

If you're still using the single field regulator you're only using half the alternators output.

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,81518.0.html

[LaOtto70Charger]

Thank you for the link. Interesting. I have a 70 with a dual field alternator. The op had a 68. For mine going to go back and look at the wiring closer.

[LaOtto70Charger]

EuroZ06 is your alternator only making noise when the ac is on or does it make it all the time?  I got my dash and everything put back in and turned on my defrost and the alternator started making a lot of noise. Switched back to the old one and it was still making lots of noise. With both though only when defrost was on. It tried heat and the nosie started again.  I noticed my belts were loose now also.  I unplugged my ac compressor and fired the car back up. No noise now when I turn on the defrost.  Not sure how I got the wiring mixed up but apparently I now power the compressor whenever I use anything in those controls.  I should add I stopped using my account because the compressor locked up and was sparking last year.

[b5blue]

Many systems use A/C in defrost to avoid blowing hot wet air on the windshield.

[Kern Dog]

The A/C system dries out the air.

[Bronzedodge]

Speaking of alternators.  I was looking for a HO stock one, round back style -

The company known as "National Quick Start" seems to have folded up.  The website is still there, but my order and follow up phone calls have gone unfilled/un-returned.  I was super-happy with their high output kit for my 69 round back.  That was 7-8 years ago.

[euroZ06]

sorry for late response, i was away for work.

To clarify, it makes noise with no accessories on (AC is off).

I'm now getting back to solving this. So i have ordered a 4 GA wire 6ft wire, which i assume would have to replace the brown wire that goes from the plug on the back of the alternator, to the junction box on the firewall, which then has a wire going to the battery. However, when i dug in yesterday, I noted that there is no way a 4GA wire would fit into that plug (the plug has 3 small wires in there). So I went back to the company to clarify, and they said that I need to "upgrade" the wire that goes from the side post of the alternator to the battery... however, the wires that go from the side post of the alternator, don't go to the battery, they go to the accessory box on the firewall (right above the junction box).

So I assume that its safe to add a 4GA wire to the side post and run it straight to the battery? Or should i run it to the junction box? I have enough length to send it directly to the battery.

I just really hope this resolves the noise that its making, and I don't have to fight the company if something is wrong with the actual alternator. This all should be super easy/fast fix if this is all it takes.

[b5blue]

   I did what's called a "Fleet Upgrade". It goes from ALT. output to the + post on the ALT gauge. (Not the one that goes back to the battery.) I passed through the firewall with a grommet.
   In line it's fused 60amp and feeds a distribution block that feeds several relays. (That are turned on/off by dash controls that normally operate devices.) 

[euroZ06]

So ive installed a 4GA wire from the side post on the alternator to the battery, and the alternator is no longer making a noise, and I'm getting 14.5v at idle. Great success!

however... now my dash alt meter is not working.  I have a supplemental one under the ashtray, that one works... fml...

[Nacho-RT74]

running a straight wire between alt and batt virtually bypasses the ammeter. Hence why you don't have anymore ( or allmost unnoticeable ) reading there.

I guess what you got down the dash is actually a voltmeter... diff gauges, similar purpouses but diff gauges reading diff aspects of the electricity

[euroZ06]

running a straight wire between alt and batt virtually bypasses the ammeter. Hence why you don't have anymore ( or allmost unnoticeable ) reading there.

I guess what you got down the dash is actually a voltmeter... diff gauges, similar purpouses but diff gauges reading diff aspects of the electricity

I haven't removed any wires, i only added one to the battery. So all the wires that used to run to the items on the firewall, are still going there.

Also, Is running a wire straight to battery, is that safe? i.e. wouldn't it be overcharged/explode?