what alternator to get?

[euroZ06]

i did the search, but i mostly see old posts with vendors that no longer are available.

I have a 68, 383, has a sound system (nothing crazy, just a sub and speakers). I need a dual pulley one (I have stock AC system). I went to summit racing, and read some reviews for alternators, and some of the ones they list for my car plainly don't work (don't fit big block), some say that they don't charge at idle, some say that too much power will knock out things... so I'm super confused on which one i need (how many AMPs), which one will fit, etc...

Any recommendation?

p.s. I'm looking at powermaster, but it gives an option for internal or external regulator. How do i know which one i have currently? and if i go internal, what do i need to do to convert?

[70 sublime]

How many wires are hooked to the alternator you have now ?

[Nacho-RT74]

Keep external regulator... easier to service out from the shelf from any parts shop.

The best alt is the one to keep the power up without any or minimal batt assistance at iddle... which it means zero reading on amm most of the time.

With a sound amp/subs and A/C  I'd point out to an alt able to feed 60-65 amps at iddle, no matter how much is the max output. It won't be required ever, except at a death battery stage, where is wrong to charge on car anyway.

And PLEASE, don't feed anything from batt post.

Big block, small block... all alts fits on both with the right bracket setup. It weren't actually made phisically for one or the other

[euroZ06]

Here is my set up (pics). I'm not sure what brand it is (it doesn't say). I do see that my voltage regulator on the firewall is disconnected, so i assume i have internal one in the alternator.

So what would be the recommended alternator? summit just lists all of their alternators for me... but some comments say that some don't charge at idle, some comments say they will blow out some stuff if its too powerful... i read that i need a roundback model (vs square back)... but on summit, it doesn't say which ones are roundback. Some other vendors don't allow me to search by the car.

[b5blue]

Call these guys: https://www.qualitypowerauto.com/pages/ChryslerMegaAmp.php      and for general electrical info: http://www.bcae1.com/

[472 R/T SE]

My delay.

My dash wiring isnt sufficient for an upgraded alternator.

[euroZ06]

So i called the qualitypower... so it seems like i have 13509 unit... I also have a round plug in the rear. The ones im looking at on summit, don't show any plugs in the rear, just 2 wire connections... so does that mean i need a custom alternator? Quality power only offers 140 AMP one, which sounds like too much for me (wouldn't too high AMP cause issues?)...

[b5blue]

"Too big" isn't a thing due to regulation. It only supplies what's needed, called "draw". 

[BrianShaughnessy]

I have powermaster alts on both cars.   They work fine but I couldn't tell you what PN they are but they're at least 75 amps.   They came with a tag showing the output which is long forgotten. 

I think it's best to upgrade the wiring to the '70 and up dual field regulator over the single field regulator that came on '68.   

The internal regulator versions are usually based on the chevy 1 wire system.   Some people like it. 

Good luck!

[Nacho-RT74]

Another external regulator advantage: in case of emergency, alt can be "full fielded" and will keep running. NOT RECOMENDED but if you are in a middle of road 1 or 2 hours away from anywhere, will be able to keep running without drain completelly out the battery.

Single or dual field: Nowdays there are single field set up regulators with electronic inner gutters, althought there are mixed experiences about these.

Newer replacement high output alts are anyway most of them made from dual field alts, modified for single field grounding one of the fields with a metallic washer down the prong brush instead the isolation washer.

[John_Kunkel]

Call these guys: https://www.qualitypowerauto.com/pages/ChryslerMegaAmp.php     

Their Mega-Amp model will do what you want.

[LaOtto70Charger]

I just ordered one from Quality on Sunday. They called to verify the 2V for the pulley today and shipped it with a tracking number.

[euroZ06]

I just ordered one from Quality Power.

One thing I'm confused about is the belt size that i will need. They said it comes with 2.2" 2V pulley.

I was previously recommended to get Gates 7612 XL High Capacity V-Belt (I have one, but was planning on ordering a second one).

How do i measure the belt size i need, and will the above belt work with that pulley?

[b5blue]

I don't know but think it would be the same. 

[green69rt]

If you end up with a double pully unit, be aware that you will need matching belts to keep them equally tight.  I don't think anyone sells matching sets now.  So, buy three belts and use the two that are closest.  Then return the odd one.

[John_Kunkel]

If an auto supply has a good stock of a certain belt, they can match them by the mold numbers.

[euroZ06]

Help!

So i have two issues... well 3...

So it appears my old alternator was the same brand as quality power one (they look identical, minus the pulley). They told me i should upgrade my alternator wire for this unit, so i have upgraded my ground wire to a 10 gauge. They weren't very specific on which wire to upgrade  .

When I turned on the car, the alternator made a lot of noise/whine. My first impression was that the bearings were bad. Secondly, at idle it only gives out 11v (my old one did 13v). I've contacted the company and they told me that its because of the wiring (its working extra hard and is making the noise) and is not charging correctly... is that right? it seems like my battery wiring goes to a plug on the alternator, so I'm not sure where to get the 6ga wire with that plug... its weird that i had the same brand alternator and it worked fine...

So my third issue is unrelated to the alternator but brings me back to why i was replacing it in the first place. When i had my single pulley alternator, at idle, with AC on, the belt would wobble... it was on tight, it was a v-belt (i could barely put it on and would tighten it to the max). At idle, the belt was working perfectly, but with AC it would jump around between the alternator and AC compressor. Eventually, it got damaged (over 2 years) and would fly off at idle. So i figured that it was because it was single (and lonely), and with the added strain of the AC it would do this. So i got this two pulley system, a different type of belt (someone on this forum recommended Gates XL) and its doing exactly the same thing I had 4 (well, 8 total, 2 of each size) different size belts lined up, i found the size that fits perfectly, it tightens perfectly, at idle with no AC it runs perfect, but as soon as i turn on AC, it starts to wobble at idle... i raise the rpm to 2k, it seems to run fine. Am i missing some kind of idler pulley? My belts go to AC/Engine/Alternator, and that's it. I almost start to feel like this is normal...

[b5blue]

Just what did you buy? Post some pics and be CERTAIN your battery is good AND fully charged. 

[euroZ06]

im looknig at my receipt, and I see the part number 14668-140A... But i can't find it on their website. They say reach out to us for recommendation, so i sent them an email, and they sent a response recommending this one. Battery is great.

I'll attach the photo. I have posted the video on the FB page for 68-70 charger family. Most people said wtf is that sound/something wrong in regards to how it sounds (but you can also see the belts wobble... which some commentators said was normal). I've sent the video to the company, they told me its my wires that are too skinny, so the alternator is working extra hard and thus making the noise. I've never heard of that, but I'm not an expert. So now I'm looking to replace the alternator wire to battery, this is what they said: "The cable goes to a stud on the side of the alternator, the plug has really small wires which do things like turn the regulator on and turn the light on the dash out once the alternator is charging. "  which i don't think is accurate. I chased the wires from the plug (there are like 2 of them) and one goes to a junction box (little brown wire in the pictures), where it connects with the red cable that goes to the battery. The wires from the stud seem to be going to the firewall connections that seem to be going to the dash and other stuff. So if i were to deduct, they want me to change the little brown wire.

I'm just confused, if my previous alternator, of the same brand, was charging well at idle, i assume it was also a high power alternator. It seemed to be enough for it to have that little cable. This alternator is now making a whine because the wire is too small for it? I just never heard of that, but i might be wrong. I now need to show for the right wire, rewire everything, and Id hate to do it, if in the end its just a bad/defective alternator.

Can you guys advise on the cable that i'd need? I have no idea how its wired to that alternator plug... its under shrinkwrap. is it just tied in there? Do I need to find the cable with that plug attached already? whats the name of the plug? The alternator vendor doesn't have options for me in this regard... (they do have cables, but not with the plug. Funny enough, orders over $250 have free shipping, the alternator was 240, so they charged me $34 for shipping... could have advised me to get that specific cable, which would have been free with shipping.... i only used email to communicate, since the website didn't even list this alternator, so i just today saw this shipping thing)

[euroZ06]

site is very glitchy with uploads...

[b5blue]

  Yea not the ALT. I'd have used. Looks to be ALT gauge is bypassed. That plug and ALT. are Greek to me. I'm using a Denso 120AMP (From Mancini.) that has a 10mm bolt for output. The larger amp machined aluminum housing Alt was my pick. (Planned purchase.) With A//C and extra electric cooling fan I'm gobbling up idle amp output if wipers and lights are on. (I'm in FL.) 
   

[b5blue]

Here is the one: https://www.qualitypowerauto.com/item_557/Chrysler-Mount-Mega-Amp-Alternator.htm

[b5blue]

Did we figure out how regulator is used? If the battery is fully charged and in good order the ALT only feeds what is running, A/C is just the blower motor electrically so what is the other draws to require output from the alt? (To make it hummm?)

[LaOtto70Charger]

I just put the new alternator in, and noticed no difference on the altmeter going negative at idle.  Checked the voltage across the alternator and had 11.5 volts at 750 to 850 rpm. Jumps to 14+ at about a 1000 rpm, and altimeter goes positive. Trying a new regulatory next on mine.

[b5blue]

The modern one in my link has greater idle output. (My Denso can do about 60AMP @ idle.)   

[LaOtto70Charger]

I got from that same place. Not the mega Amp one though. A high Amp one, that their specs said 55 amps at idle. So questioning now if the regulator just isn't switching until engine speed is up.

[BrianShaughnessy]

I got from that same place. Not the mega Amp one though. A high Amp one, that their specs said 55 amps at idle. So questioning now if the regulator just isn't switching until engine speed is up.

If you're still using the single field regulator you're only using half the alternators output.

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,81518.0.html

[LaOtto70Charger]

Thank you for the link. Interesting. I have a 70 with a dual field alternator. The op had a 68. For mine going to go back and look at the wiring closer.

[LaOtto70Charger]

EuroZ06 is your alternator only making noise when the ac is on or does it make it all the time?  I got my dash and everything put back in and turned on my defrost and the alternator started making a lot of noise. Switched back to the old one and it was still making lots of noise. With both though only when defrost was on. It tried heat and the nosie started again.  I noticed my belts were loose now also.  I unplugged my ac compressor and fired the car back up. No noise now when I turn on the defrost.  Not sure how I got the wiring mixed up but apparently I now power the compressor whenever I use anything in those controls.  I should add I stopped using my account because the compressor locked up and was sparking last year.

[b5blue]

Many systems use A/C in defrost to avoid blowing hot wet air on the windshield.

[Kern Dog]

The A/C system dries out the air.

[Bronzedodge]

Speaking of alternators.  I was looking for a HO stock one, round back style -

The company known as "National Quick Start" seems to have folded up.  The website is still there, but my order and follow up phone calls have gone unfilled/un-returned.  I was super-happy with their high output kit for my 69 round back.  That was 7-8 years ago.

[euroZ06]

sorry for late response, i was away for work.

To clarify, it makes noise with no accessories on (AC is off).

I'm now getting back to solving this. So i have ordered a 4 GA wire 6ft wire, which i assume would have to replace the brown wire that goes from the plug on the back of the alternator, to the junction box on the firewall, which then has a wire going to the battery. However, when i dug in yesterday, I noted that there is no way a 4GA wire would fit into that plug (the plug has 3 small wires in there). So I went back to the company to clarify, and they said that I need to "upgrade" the wire that goes from the side post of the alternator to the battery... however, the wires that go from the side post of the alternator, don't go to the battery, they go to the accessory box on the firewall (right above the junction box).

So I assume that its safe to add a 4GA wire to the side post and run it straight to the battery? Or should i run it to the junction box? I have enough length to send it directly to the battery.

I just really hope this resolves the noise that its making, and I don't have to fight the company if something is wrong with the actual alternator. This all should be super easy/fast fix if this is all it takes.

[b5blue]

   I did what's called a "Fleet Upgrade". It goes from ALT. output to the + post on the ALT gauge. (Not the one that goes back to the battery.) I passed through the firewall with a grommet.
   In line it's fused 60amp and feeds a distribution block that feeds several relays. (That are turned on/off by dash controls that normally operate devices.) 

[euroZ06]

So ive installed a 4GA wire from the side post on the alternator to the battery, and the alternator is no longer making a noise, and I'm getting 14.5v at idle. Great success!

however... now my dash alt meter is not working.  I have a supplemental one under the ashtray, that one works... fml...

[Nacho-RT74]

running a straight wire between alt and batt virtually bypasses the ammeter. Hence why you don't have anymore ( or allmost unnoticeable ) reading there.

I guess what you got down the dash is actually a voltmeter... diff gauges, similar purpouses but diff gauges reading diff aspects of the electricity

[euroZ06]

running a straight wire between alt and batt virtually bypasses the ammeter. Hence why you don't have anymore ( or allmost unnoticeable ) reading there.

I guess what you got down the dash is actually a voltmeter... diff gauges, similar purpouses but diff gauges reading diff aspects of the electricity

I haven't removed any wires, i only added one to the battery. So all the wires that used to run to the items on the firewall, are still going there.

Also, Is running a wire straight to battery, is that safe? i.e. wouldn't it be overcharged/explode?