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panel gaps and subframe connectors

Started by mopar4don, May 26, 2022, 02:37:56 PM

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mopar4don


I am getting ready to set all the panel gaps and install UScartool subframe connectors.

Presently the car is sitting on a body jig. And it will go on a rotisserie to finish out the bottom and all body work.

(The body jig supports the car at the 8 frame locations)

My question is with the car on the body jig, should I gap all of the panels, and install the subframe connectors?

I am concerned that if I gap and install the subframe connectors while it is on the jig, then later when it is on its suspension my gaps may change.


Just not sure what I can get away with?????

cdr

LINK TO MY STORY http://www.onallcylinders.com/2015/11/16/ride-shares-charlie-keel-battles-cancer-ms-to-build-brilliant-1968-dodge-charger/  
                                                                                           
68 Charger 512 cid,9.7to1,Hilborn EFI,Home ported 440 source heads,small hyd roller cam,COLD A/C ,,a518 trans,Dana 60 ,4.10 gear,10.93 et,4100lbs on street tires full exhaust daily driver
Charger55 by Charlie Keel, on Flickr

hemi-hampton

I'm assuming the body jig will be in the way of installing the sub frame connectors. See if doors easily open & close while on Body jig, if not you got a problem. then try doors while off body jig. just the doors being on help prevent flexing. I'd weld or bolt braces across each door opening while on jig with doors on, latched & closed. then weld or bolt at least on brace across the interior at top rear of where door closes. this will help hold car sturdy with less flexing. then install subframe connectors before mounting on any rotisserie. Then perfect your gaps. a little tip I use is the size of a paint stick thickness for all my gaps. Coincidently this stick is the exact same size as the plastic gap tool we used to do the Autoshow cars for the big 3 Auto manufacturers. Ideally, I like to install the braces &/or sub frame connectors from the beginning while car is still on its suspension & has engine weight, unlike like most other people. Just my opinion. I'm sure others will vary. LEON.

P.S. Kinda like the picture below with braces. My gaps are perfect on all my cars.

mopar4don

Quote from: cdr on May 26, 2022, 04:02:04 PM
I say do them now
Thanks Charlie


Quote from: hemi-hampton on May 26, 2022, 06:29:45 PM
I'm assuming the body jig will be in the way of installing the sub frame connectors. See if doors easily open & close while on Body jig, if not you got a problem. then try doors while off body jig. just the doors being on help prevent flexing. I'd weld or bolt braces across each door opening while on jig with doors on, latched & closed. then weld or bolt at least on brace across the interior at top rear of where door closes. this will help hold car sturdy with less flexing. then install subframe connectors before mounting on any rotisserie. Then perfect your gaps. a little tip I use is the size of a paint stick thickness for all my gaps. Coincidently this stick is the exact same size as the plastic gap tool we used to do the Autoshow cars for the big 3 Auto manufacturers. Ideally, I like to install the braces &/or sub frame connectors from the beginning while car is still on its suspension & has engine weight, unlike like most other people. Just my opinion. I'm sure others will vary. LEON.

P.S. Kinda like the picture below with braces. My gaps are perfect on all my cars.

Hi Leon, thanks for the input.
The jig is not in the way, I have already fit them.
So it seems to me the paint stick is the way to go.

472 R/T SE

This used to be a well talked about question.  Mine were MP and welded to each subframe.  Only cause firefighter convinced me anyone worth a salt, (not me) could cut them off with no lasting repercussions.
Although mine was drivetrained up on it's wheels when welded in.

Id take anything hemi hampton says as gospel!