Daytona clone rear dutchman

[6PakBee]

Everything I've ever read says that you should use the 71-74 Roadrunner dutchman panel between the trunk deck and a Vega plug.  Why couldn't you use a dutchman for a '69 Charger?  What am I missing?

[Daytona R/T SE]

Everything I've ever read says that you should use the 71-74 Roadrunner dutchman panel between the trunk deck and a Vega plug.  Why couldn't you use a dutchman for a '69 Charger?  What am I missing?

By the time you move it far enough back to form the front edge of the Daytona trunk opening, it's too short.

Been there.

Tried that.

Made my own.

[6PakBee]

Learning, always learning.  Thanks!    

[Daytona R/T SE]

 

[MoPaR 312]

Glad I just saw this as I was looking for a 71-74 Charger Dutchman but had no luck. The Plymouth Dutchman panel the same/similar and works on clones?

[DAY CLONA]

Everything I've ever read says that you should use the 71-74 Roadrunner dutchman panel between the trunk deck and a Vega plug.  Why couldn't you use a dutchman for a '69 Charger?  What am I missing?

R. you need the 71-74 Charger/RR/Sat/GTX B body dutchman panel for just the trunk gutter section off of it to weld/blend into the Vega plug that you intend on using, FYI the "dutchman" area of the vega plug should be 12 to12 1/2 inches from the bottom of the window channel to the front trunk lid/dutchman gap, you'll need to add some metal to achieve approx 3 3/4- 4 1/2 inches from the top of the rear glass/channel edge to the Charger roofline were the plug welds into, regardless of what plug you use, always make/install the shortened trunk first, then you can "slide" the plug to location to get better alignment/gaps, most doing the Vega plug will trim off the gutter lip from the 71-74 B body Dutchman, leaving a little of the top dutchman skin to weld the bottom edge of the Vega plug to, so build the trunk, install, add the 71-74 trimmed Dutchman gutter to the trunk void created by the Daytona trunk, basicaly creating a finished gutter edge in front of the trunk to attach the Vega plug bottom edge to, the 71-74 arc of the gutter is 99% match for the stock Daytona gutter/trunk edge arc, your trunk lid should be 21 1/2 inches measured along the sides FINISHED (make sure to have an additional 3/8" to create the front lip), the center will be approx 22+ inches, use the 71-74 gutter arc as a pattern to create a matching arc on the trunk lid, the factory only folded the FRONT cut of the trunk lid 90 degrees, about a 1/4"-3/8" lip....they did not fold it over the trunk filler panel that dresses' up the cut down front section of the trunk underside....


The pic shows basically how the trunk front lip and filler panel should look.....

Mike

[DAY CLONA]

.....front lip and what's required to be cut away to install filler panel

[DAY CLONA]

......

[AZMoparMike]

The plug pictured here with a few daytona parts i acquired over the years is what you want to look for.

[6PakBee]

Mike, thank you for that detailed procedure for installing the trunk deck closure piece.  I've already archived it with the rest of the "how to make a clone" info!  But while we are on the trunk deck, how (where) do you locate the channels on the deck lid for the trunk hinges?

[DAY CLONA]

Mike, thank you for that detailed procedure for installing the trunk deck closure piece.  I've already archived it with the rest of the "how to make a clone" info!  But while we are on the trunk deck, how (where) do you locate the channels on the deck lid for the trunk hinges?

When I sell trunk hinge/channel kits, I recommend you finish out the sheetmetal aspect of the truck lid as I outlined above, the hinges are bolt (actually clip) on replacing the stock 68-70 Charger hinges, I ship them with the channels bolted on and centered on the channel's slots for equal fore/aft adjustment, helps to have a helper, install Tona/500 hinges, climb in the trunk, have your assistant place the shortened lid in place, make sure to have the rear qtr potmetal caps to align the rear edge of the trunk lid, side gaps where you want them, the guy in the trunk then raises each hinge with the channel mounted on it as described above, let the bolt ends protruding pass the channels contact the under side skin/brace (you usually have to splay/direct the hinge to approx location, now mark each stud location on the underside of the lid, remove the lid, bore/drill a 3/4 inch diameter (approx) hole so the bolt end and the welded nut on the backside of the channel allows the channel to fit flush against the lid's underside skin/bracing, you;ll need the assistant to align the lid as it needs to sit finished on the car/qtrs/etc, so some shimming/blocks/whatever to hold it exactly where you want it to sit gap wise, height wise, finish wise.....as you push one hinge at a time into place, making sure the channel is completely flush with the preset trunk lid underside, if not remove the hinge pass it out to your assistant to "reshape/tweak" any angle you need to have the channel sit flush for spot welding in place, after you have spot welded both channels to the underside skin/bracing, unbolt the channel/hinge bolts, remove the trunk lid, finish weld the channels, return the lid back to the hinges, bolt in place, if you did this precisely, all you'll need to do is slide the trunk for/aft for finish alignment, tighten up the channel bolts, and you should be ready to install (tack in place only) the 71-71 B body trimmed down dutchman panel/trunk gutter and start fitting your VEGA plug, (a factory/repro Daytona plug, one would just fit into place and adjust to desired panel/trunk gap fit) the reason for being very precise setting up the Daytona hinges/channels/trunk lid is the set up is very stout (assuming you have proper repro/factory/NOS hinges) and there's no "racking" the trunk lid side to side if your gaps are off from a sloppy install, there's no up/down movement to adjust if your lid sits too high/low at the front edge, there's only fore/aft and a little yaw adjustment from the slotted channels, also remove the tail lights when camping out in the trunk so that your assistant can pass tools, a hinge or 2, the welder handle/head through the tail light openings as the Daytona lid must be properly held/shimmed in place will you get the hinges sorted out to spot the channels in place....sounds complicated by me being long winded writing this, but is a rather simple task if you prepare/think out your steps...MikeG

Here a pic of my repro hinges with the channels mounted....and a lid to approx channel location....

[DAY CLONA]

The Factory/Creative Industries was not neat about welding the channels Daytona/C500.....no really right/wrong way, but here's the "average" finish.... MikeG

[DAY CLONA]

Don't forget to drill some holes for water drainage in the cut down filler panel after it's welded in place/finished....MikeG

[6PakBee]

Mike, once more...thanks so much!!!  Maybe I'm trying to oversimplify this but it looks from the pictures like the two channels are centered on the trunk ribs and parallel to the ribs.  The end of the channel looks to be about 1 1/2" from the edge of the closure piece.  This would save a fat old man from crawling in the trunk!

[DAY CLONA]

Mike, once more...thanks so much!!!  Maybe I'm trying to oversimplify this but it looks from the pictures like the two channels are centered on the trunk ribs and parallel to the ribs.  The end of the channel looks to be about 1 1/2" from the edge of the closure piece.  This would save a fat old man from crawling in the trunk!

R, It would be nice to think so, but from experience every car is a little bit different, best to follow the procedure I outlined otherwise the lid alignment could become a nightmare which I have seen for some.... maybe you can find some neighborhood motorhead kid who would like to make a few bucks hanging out in a trunk for few hours.... MikeG

[DAY CLONA]

The plug pictured here with a few daytona parts i acquired over the years is what you want to look for.

Mike,


Speaking of "parts"..... I have a set of my repro Superbird scoops for sale, you said you regretted passing on the last set I had on Ebay, if your interested?....


Mike

[AZMoparMike]

The plug pictured here with a few daytona parts i acquired over the years is what you want to look for.

Mike,


Speaking of "parts"..... I have a set of my repro Superbird scoops for sale, you said you regretted passing on the last set I had on Ebay, if your interested?....


Mike

Hey mike,

Thanks for thinking of me. I can always use spare bird parts and actually could use a pair so I don't have to make a mold of some originals I have. I went through my storage and parts and found two pairs of repops from unknown sources over the years. Had to toss both sets because as I drilled the posts the posts were brittle and chunks came off. After close inspection, I see body filler was used to fill imperfections, the posts were also a tad bit shorter.

So I ask do you have a set with good posts that wont chip because it's just resin? Be nice if they have the part nbr in casting too

My belief... extra quality = extra money! I need the best quality, if you have a really nice pair


Also looking for a set of hL door springs.

Thanks

[DAY CLONA]

The plug pictured here with a few daytona parts i acquired over the years is what you want to look for.

Mike,


Speaking of "parts"..... I have a set of my repro Superbird scoops for sale, you said you regretted passing on the last set I had on Ebay, if your interested?....


Mike

Hey mike,

Thanks for thinking of me. I can always use spare bird parts and actually could use a pair so I don't have to make a mold of some originals I have. I went through my storage and parts and found two pairs of repops from unknown sources over the years. Had to toss both sets because as I drilled the posts the posts were brittle and chunks came off. After close inspection, I see body filler was used to fill imperfections, the posts were also a tad bit shorter.

So I ask do you have a set with good posts that wont chip because it's just resin? Be nice if they have the part nbr in casting too

My belief... extra quality = extra money! I need the best quality, if you have a really nice pair


Also looking for a set of hL door springs.

Thanks

Mike, my scoops don't have the PN#...IMHO no need for it you are not going to see it, unless you like sliding a mirror in the scoops at a show  

Regarding the studs/post they are fiberglass with full threads and removable stainless studs/nuts, and they are slightly longer than stock so you can fit them to your fender contours, usually a problem on stock scoops is the studs are short and the installer pulls/snaps the stud tightening down the gap, the only other vendor with studs on Superbird scoops is/was Janak perhaps you had a pair of his? what color was the gelcoat? ....as far as head light door springs I no longer manufacturer as the buy in price for the nichrome stainless steel is $$$$$$$$$$$$, the last run of 25 sets I made took about 25-30 years to sell....just not worth it

MikeG