Valve cover leak has defeated me for 10 years, need help!

[AKcharger]

Since I put the engine together on the '72 I have ALWAYS had an oil leak from the valve covers, mostly the PAX side. I admit complete defeat!  I'm now thinking it's not a valve cover issue but a head issue, any suggestions appreciated:

2010 - engine rebuilt w/440 source cheater heads and stock valve covers always slight leak pax side
- replaced cork gaskets and resealed...still leaked
- tried hard rubber gaskets leaked
- replaced valve covers completely with new stampings figuring old covers were "warped" nope leaked
- Used "leak-proof" 50145 gaskets, same leak
- Installed studs for a easier flatter Installation no change
- latest attempt NOS M/T covers as these were nice and ridged...HORRIBLE, leaked a pint of oil in 5 min from pax side

Each time all old sealant is removed, to nice clean metal and I solvent the surface to ensure sealant adhesion.

I'm thinking the valve cover is hitting the top of the rocker shift and not letting it seat properly. Would explain why the M/T poured out oil cause it wouldn't flex at all where factory one would give a bit

[1970Moparmann]

Wow, you have tried a lot of crap... LOL. 

I have had the same problem with my Coronet.  I just bought cork again and used this and it seemed to clear up the issue for me.   

https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-80019-Aviation-Gasket-Sealant/dp/B000HBM3QQ/ref=asc_df_B000HBM3QQ?tag=bingshoppinga-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=80401840125115&hvnetw=o&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4584001418869333&psc=1

[AKcharger]

I'll try anything, thanks!

[b5blue]

I found some screws were too long for my Sidewinder heads. You tighten down but the cover isn't snug. I'm also using rubber with steel core gaskets, supposed to be reusable. 

[1970Moparmann]

I found a thread to do the following -

Put the Form-a-Gasket on one side, wait an hour, then put on the other.   Put on the valve covers on the car and just had tighten.  Wait a night, then torque down.     Seemed to work for me. 

[Kern Dog]

This stuff is the best sealant that I have ever used.

[b5blue]

Gaskets I bought, reusable: https://www.ebay.com/itm/333884250943?hash=item4dbd0d5b3f:g:GpwAAOSwCyBhZbWC

[birdsandbees]

Cheap cork gaskets, no sealant, no leaks. Thought I'd buy the "better" gaskets and they leak on OE cast heads, even with sealant.

[AKcharger]

Good tips Thanks!
- B5 yeah thought of that thats why I went with studs in the heads, same leaks. So those reusable ones, no sealant?
- 1970 mopar - are you putting that stuff on gasket or head/cover surfaces?
- B&B I've always had good luck with that too...on cast iron heads, I think thats the trick
- copy kern dog, will try

[b5blue]

I've got Cal Custom VC's and seal the gasket to just the cover. Light film of grease on the gasket to head surface. 

[Just 6T9 CHGR]

Ehrenberg sells these exh manifold gaskets to prevent the pass side from burning...specially with HP manifolds the pass side is super close to the VC.
I have my manifolds Jet-Hot coated and it still burns the paint slightly on the pass VC

https://www.ebay.com/itm/324747602039?hash=item4b9c772877:g:9uUAAOSwiMRbCaa6

[AKcharger]

I've got Cal Custom VC's and seal the gasket to just the cover. Light film of grease on the gasket to head surface. 

- Wait,  so you're not sealing the gasket to the head? And use grease??
- thx 6t9, like those gaskets!!! However with mine the leak starts usually within minutes, last one has oil smoke 3 minutes after starting

I called 440 source to see if they heard of anyone else having g issues...nope, I'm the only one

[b5blue]

Trick learned from a 60's mechanic, glue/seal to cover and light film of grease to gasket allows it to form to head or other surface for sealing. (Like timing chain cover.) Remember I'm using rubber gaskets.

[AKcharger]

Thanks b5, I'll try that when I get home. Heck my only option is just keep throwing diffrent gaskets/sealants at it till someday ii hope it stops.

[b5blue]

Re check the heads with a straight edge and look for casting defects. 

[metallicareload99]

I found a thread to do the following -

Put the Form-a-Gasket on one side, wait an hour, then put on the other.   Put on the valve covers on the car and just had tighten.  Wait a night, then torque down.     Seemed to work for me. 

I can't remember if the 440 source heads have the rail milled flat or is it as cast like stock? Def make sure your bolts aren't too long.

I used to use the Ultra Copper on everything, with less than great results. I'm starting to come around to some sealants are better than others for different jobs. I.E. the regular black seems to work better on valve covers than the high temp stuff. The "Right Stuff" seems to work real good, but taking things apart after and cleaning it up could be a challenge.

At any rate I've had the best luck using the above method more or less. "Glue" the gasket to the valve cover with the sealant, wait 15 or so, use the sealant on the bottom of the valve cover. Set valvecover on engine, tighten bolts until they just start to compress, let it sit over night and then snug 'em up the next day. Snug up again after the first run. FWIW the RTV is "supposed" to need 24 hours before it's ready  75% of the time it works 100% of the time

[b5blue]

If you glue both sides how are you going to ever remove later? 

[metallicareload99]

If you glue both sides how are you going to ever remove later? 

Valid point. I was assuming a hydraulic cam scenario, where I've gone years without needing to remove a valve cover.

Now that I have a solid roller cam, I constantly have the valve cover on and off, checking lash every several hundred miles. Now I just use the Moroso steel cored blue gaskets on Trick Flow heads (valve cover rail milled flat) with Summit cast aluminum valve covers. Just wipe excess oil up, no sealant and no leaks

[Kern Dog]

Now that I have a solid roller cam, I constantly have the valve cover on and off, checking lash every several hundred miles. Now I just use the Moroso steel cored blue gaskets on Trick Flow heads (valve cover rail milled flat) with Summit cast aluminum valve covers. Just wipe excess oil up, no sealant and no leaks

You have something wrong if you have to adjust the lash that often.

[metallicareload99]

Now that I have a solid roller cam, I constantly have the valve cover on and off, checking lash every several hundred miles. Now I just use the Moroso steel cored blue gaskets on Trick Flow heads (valve cover rail milled flat) with Summit cast aluminum valve covers. Just wipe excess oil up, no sealant and no leaks

You have something wrong if you have to adjust the lash that often.

Checking... I do almost no actual adjusting

[AKcharger]

OK so I pulled the cover off the pax side, do these photos give any clue to the issue?  The cover came off easy enough with the gasket still sealed to the head. can you guys see anything suspicious??

[metallicareload99]

Looks like everything is lining up OK. No RTV on the valve cover side? Using stamped steel covers? Those gaskets worked ok for me, but if you only wanted to RTV one side I'd do the valve cover side tho

[b5blue]

The corner areas look like the gasket swings out too wide. (?)

[AKcharger]

OK next plan of attack is:
- Right stuff sealant and do gasket to valve cover, 12 hour cure and seal head to valve cover gasket with 12 hour cure run and retighten
- Trying same fel pro gaskets

have to leave tomorrow for another 5 day trip so will be next week till I have a report

The corner areas look like the gasket swings out too wide. (?)

can you show where you mean??

[Nacho-RT74]

MaMopar didn't use exhaust to heads gasket. They aren't even listed into the parts catalog... and even aftermarket kits include those, I decided to keep MaMopar decision for this. Just a light coat of hiTemp Sealant, which even it will burn, is able to keep any small Hole ( of some due rust ) filled. So far so good never have got an exhauts leak there.

Now... Manifold to Pipes... that's another deal and it has been a HUGE headache for me along the years LOL.

About valve cover oil leak... are you sure is the head valve cover edge and not a tiny crack on head ?

BTW, I use the sealant just on valve cover side, never on head side. I think last time I even use contact cement instead silicone sealant!! Stock valve covers