Guys I Need Brake Booster help for 68 Charger

[tan top]

 ive decoded your fender tag ,  looks like your charger was originally manual drums !  it has no sign of the codes D9 which means discs & H1 that means power brakes .
 looking at your brake disc picture it seems to me that who ever done this conversion used the tried & trusted  the  E booger  Disc O tec  brake swap ! have a read here https://www.allpar.com/threads/disc-o-tech-stop-on-a-dime.237038/ , most of the aftermarket disc brake kits are a copy of this !  you have the single piston slider calipers. there is no factory calibrated ( well  as well as it could of been ) proportioning valve for this  combination because its made up of parts that was not offered  as a complete set up  for say 68 charger . to use the factory proportioning valve for a disc brake second generation charger you would need the whole original set up for it to work as well as it did when new
the factory set up for discs on a b-body
tandum bendix booster with correct master cylinder
4 piston bendix calipers
10 in rear drums
hard brake lines run in exact location as original running through the distribution block / pressure warning valve & then you can use the factory the proportioning valve to the rear drums.
your never get any one to recommend  a pre set pressure  proportioning valve to work with an unknown factory combination of parts ( these valves were not the best balance when new)
what every one does is use a adjustable proportioning valve with the richard ehrenberg's disc brake swap https://www.moparaction.com/2016/03/16/disc-main/
 have a look at these links again with the ramman , he is talking about the disc o tec swap & looks like you have got a previous owners own take on it .
i  think providing everything else has been done correctly & the rest of the braking system is in perfect working order , the booster that you have bought with the matching master cylinder & adjustable proportioning valve will do the job ,

factory location for reference   http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,106000.0.html

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=feWn8aX5DwA
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UgpL97J6RoY
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cr2mwGAcRZ0  this is the Disc O tec conversion
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aKXAQKVePdo
https://www.manciniracing.com/intuadprva.html  adjustable valve

[Phillips68charger]

Well that friend is just Awesome!
Thanks for going through the trouble to look all this info up
& your input. I'll do some more reading on the links you provided.  But Yeah I've come to the same conclusion, I believe your 100% correct. I wanted to believe it was all factory but it's the correct fender tag & it would have those codes. Too many things now pointing to what you just said & to the conspiracies I had,lol.

So I need to buy a front disc upgrade kit then with 4 piston calipers? Or probably just new calipers? I had already been looking at some. Just didn't know if it was needed. What I've got to do now is write a list of everything I need. I was looking at complete brake line kits, really expensive but I havent found one that's got the extra line for the front to rear proportioning valve. Maybe I've looked over it .  

Edited: Today Thursday:
So you are saying I need an adjustable proportioning valve instead of the regular one here?

https://www.classicindustries.com/product/md2274.html

The line that I found needed for that part( Link above) probably wont be an exact fit for another adjustment valve. Will it?

https://www.classicindustries.com/product/all-years/dodge/all-models/parts/rin6801s.html

I also found a front/ rear kit on ebay thru inline tube that he said was the same that I needed. But I dont see the prop valve line .But thats the listing he sent me.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1968-69-Dodge-Charger-Power-Disc-Brake-Line-Kit-L-Port-MC-1pc-F-To-R-Dana-SS-/371418278691?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0

Ive got a whole lot better of a understanding than I did now, thanks to you all that's chimed in. I've just got to figure out exactly what I need so I can make an order.
I did read those articles about the the Disco Tech Swap. And they said to use an adjustable prop valve too. So even if I bought a new front disc setup kit, id still have to use an adjustable prop? The article was talking about doing test on a wet road to get the tires to slide on the front wheels 9 out of 10 times but I thought that was the whole purpose of the valve was for it not to lock up after adjusted?  I don't have a problem with the adjustable prop valve as long as it fits in to any of the other parts im buying. If it gets too complicated Ill have to let a shop do it & even then, I need to make sure I have all the parts with me. These shops around here wont work on cars that have to be rolled in & out & wait on parts. Last 2 shops I went to that had shops at their house screwed me over. As in not working on it for many months.

Here is the link I found from this forum going back about 9 yrs ago.
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,106000.0.html

[lloyd3]

tan top: Thankyou for that!  Mine does appear to be the Bendix drum booster. The Midland-Ross units look surprisingly different when you really look closely at them (in arguably original cars, many are not even painted), and that removeable band around the middle is fairly unique. The crimped assembly on the Bendix bodies is quite different from that. Yet another minor mystery resolved here due to sheer diligence and deep institutional knowledge.

[Phillips68charger]

I was hoping that others would benefit from this too. Maybe with the boosters off the car I could tell the difference, but looked the same to me.
So a  bendix didnt have to have only a trapezoid look I take it.

[bakerhillpins]

Tan's the man!  Thanks for all the photos!

tan top: Thankyou for that!  Mine does appear to be the Bendix drum booster. The Midland-Ross units look surprisingly different when you really look closely at them (in arguably original cars, many are not even painted), and that removeable band around the middle is fairly unique. The crimped assembly on the Bendix bodies is quite different from that. Yet another minor mystery resolved here due to sheer diligence and deep institutional knowledge.

My 69 R/T came with all drums on the broadcast... and at the time of my purchase it had that weird looking Bendix that moparstuart/lloyd3 posted up connected to the drums. The booster leaked though and I put on a rebuilt one from a parts store that looks like the Midland Ross. I think I kept the old one just in case.

I bought an NOS Midland Ross booster which is metal tagged (Factory thing?) to say 68 charger but I haven't put it on the car and it's buried in the parts room. I must be under the false impression that the MR was supposed to be OEM for the 4 drum chargers??

[tan top]

Well that friend is just Awesome!
Thanks for going through the trouble to look all this info up
& your input. I'll do some more reading on the links you provided.  But Yeah I've come to the same conclusion, I believe your 100% correct. I wanted to believe it was all factory but it's the correct fender tag & it would have those codes. Too many things now pointing to what you just said & to the conspiracies I had,lol.

So I need to buy a front disc upgrade kit then with 4 piston calipers? Or probably just new calipers? I had already been looking at some. Just didn't know if it was needed. What I've got to do now is write a list of everything I need. I was looking at complete brake line kits, really expensive but I havent found one that's got the extra line for the front to rear proportioning valve. Maybe I've looked over it .  

Edited: Today Thursday:
So you are saying I need an adjustable proportioning valve instead of the regular one here?

https://www.classicindustries.com/product/md2274.html

The line that I found needed for that part( Link above) probably wont be an exact fit for another adjustment valve. Will it?

https://www.classicindustries.com/product/all-years/dodge/all-models/parts/rin6801s.html

I also found a front/ rear kit on ebay thru inline tube that he said was the same that I needed. But I dont see the prop valve line .But thats the listing he sent me.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1968-69-Dodge-Charger-Power-Disc-Brake-Line-Kit-L-Port-MC-1pc-F-To-R-Dana-SS-/371418278691?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0

Ive got a whole lot better of a understanding than I did now, thanks to you all that's chimed in. I've just got to figure out exactly what I need so I can make an order.
I did read those articles about the the Disco Tech Swap. And they said to use an adjustable prop valve too. So even if I bought a new front disc setup kit, id still have to use an adjustable prop? The article was talking about doing test on a wet road to get the tires to slide on the front wheels 9 out of 10 times but I thought that was the whole purpose of the valve was for it not to lock up after adjusted?  I don't have a problem with the adjustable prop valve as long as it fits in to any of the other parts im buying. If it gets too complicated Ill have to let a shop do it & even then, I need to make sure I have all the parts with me. These shops around here wont work on cars that have to be rolled in & out & wait on parts. Last 2 shops I went to that had shops at their house screwed me over. As in not working on it for many months.

Here is the link I found from this forum going back about 9 yrs ago.
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,106000.0.html

i just re-read your first post, my bad    i had forgot you wanted to replace the whole complete brake set up , & just  got side tracked on what booster you had fitted.
before ordering any brake lines  , have a look what side the hard lines come out of the new master cylinder your planning to use with the  with the new bendix booster you have bought already.
because  that hard line kit  you posted a link of from ebay  has the  master cylinder lines coning out right side &  rear axle lines for a dana  have you got a dana axle ?   also the proportioning valve MD2274 you will not need it  , with an adjustable one if you was going to keep the disc brake set up you currently have,   ( like i mentioned last night the disc O tec swap )or buy  new kit based on the same.
sorry this is where i think i have or we have got our wires crossed in what exactly type of brake set up you want on your charger .

(1) to put an identical factory appearing using all factory parts  disc brake set up on your charger will be a lot of work tracking down parts , last time i looked the factory 4 piston calipers are / were  unobtainable &  even a problem getting them rebuilt , i think pistons & seals  have only recently  become are available again ( i await to be corrected ) & will prolly need sleeving.  & unless your doing it your self every where will want your ones in exchange & will prolly not even give you the option of a surcharge because they are so rare today & have none on the shelf ready to go. imo  only time to bother with these factory four piston calipers is if your charger was equipped with them originally   & or  it was ( no offence meant   ) a hemi car or c500 / daytona going in for OEM gold judging  event where you want it 100 percent factory.  
(2)  if you want a aftermarket  four piston caliper  disc brake set up, have a good look at the calipers before you buy because all the ones i had seen & heard about when they first come on the market ,  none of them use to be fitted with dust boots on the pistons , big no no imo all road dirt grime  water even winter time salt will cause havoc with the pistons even if they are stainless ( ok track i suppose ) not something i would consider . having said this they are might have been redesigned by now , i found this out when aftermarket four piston calipers come out for our cars. so if you buy one of those kits your need the adjustable proportioning valve ,  & the new bendix booster / master cylinder you have already bought .
(3) this is the set up i assumed you was going with & what looks the like you already have , the disc O  tec swap like what was in those links i sent last night  , this would be what i would use ,  & will prolly give you better  stopping power too . plus its all factory parts & the aftermarket carries all the stuff  to rebuild them , & calipers have dust boots , if your not going to rebuild what you have already on your charger , there are lots  copys of the Disc O tec  brake kits out there with slider calipers .  & your bendix booster & master cylinder with be perfect with this combo , also a adjustable proportioning valve will be needed &  i would order the factory drum brake hard line set up &  make your own extra lines to splice the adjustable valve in the  front to rear line  where will be the most accessible location but keeping away from road grime dirt water & damage etc. also un less you have got a proper pipe flaring tool keep away from stainless lines.  
not sure if you have seen all the video links yet ,  disc brakes need so much more line pressure to work, &  to make a drum lock up might only need only a fifth of the line pressure of a disc would need just to slow  the car down & not even lock up . & locking up the brakes as every one knows is the last thing you want to do, thats why you have an adjustable proportioning valve & set it up to how you like the feel of brake balance & getting the car to stop as fast as possible with out the rear drums locking up.
 

[tan top]

Tan's the man!  Thanks for all the photos!

tan top: Thankyou for that!  Mine does appear to be the Bendix drum booster. The Midland-Ross units look surprisingly different when you really look closely at them (in arguably original cars, many are not even painted), and that removeable band around the middle is fairly unique. The crimped assembly on the Bendix bodies is quite different from that. Yet another minor mystery resolved here due to sheer diligence and deep institutional knowledge.

My 69 R/T came with all drums on the broadcast... and at the time of my purchase it had that weird looking Bendix that moparstuart/lloyd3 posted up connected to the drums. The booster leaked though and I put on a rebuilt one from a parts store that looks like the Midland Ross. I think I kept the old one just in case.

I bought an NOS Midland Ross booster which is metal tagged (Factory thing?) to say 68 charger but I haven't put it on the car and it's buried in the parts room. I must be under the false impression that the MR was supposed to be OEM for the 4 drum chargers??

tan top: Thankyou for that!  Mine does appear to be the Bendix drum booster. The Midland-Ross units look surprisingly different when you really look closely at them (in arguably original cars, many are not even painted), and that removeable band around the middle is fairly unique. The crimped assembly on the Bendix bodies is quite different from that. Yet another minor mystery resolved here due to sheer diligence and deep institutional knowledge.

 this booster deal is a bit confusing .....  even before i got my charger & was a kid at school i always associated a midland  ross booster for power drums in a 68 -70 B body & all magazines & road tests that i remember &  mopars that i had seen showed it  & the tandum Bendix for discs & power drums with a hemi only.    doubt there are enough unrestored  68-70 b-bodies , that you know have been un tampered with to start a kind of poll  what boosters & with what SPD & assembly plant &  does the power brake show up all the time on fender tag of a bendix power drum car  
was it an assembly plant thing  ?, over the counter  part ?  chrysler got a better bulk buy deal from bendix that month or ...

[Phillips68charger]

Oh that's OK man, it's me, I've been going back & forth last few days, re-thinking my options & just trying to decide my best route. I don't want to have to go down this road again & want it to be taken care of for a while, lol.

A little back story. When I bought the car back in 07, i didnt ask enough questions.I took it for granted that it was factory disc. I didn't have the fender tag checked. I drove the car regular until the brakes went south around 2014.Up until around that time, everything was good, engine ran good, still does, but I never checked anything with the brakes or anything cause it didn't need nothing. After brakes got worse, I knew the master cylinder was bad & lines going to m.c needed replacing & wasn't for sure about the booster.

I was told by a mechanic this summer that my booster was bad & over time it cause the m. c to fail. To be honest, I'm not for sure if the booster on it, is bad. It doesn't have hard brakes. Just spongey & goes to floor barely stopping.
I heard it's best to replace the booster if replacing master cylinder. So that's what I did. The actual brakes, Rotor, pads look OK. But every single brake line & brake hoses on the car is badly rusted & hoses dry rotted. . At first I was just gonna replace what was needed but figured it was best to replace it all & be done.
So not knowing if it was done right in the first place was 1 thing. And making sure it will be right now is the other.

So keeping all the brake hardware is fine with me as long as it's right. But as you said, I will need that adjustable proportioning valve & I just wanted to make sure I buy the right lines. That eBay listing isn't what I picked, it's what inline tube sent me after sending the guy a question. I didn't notice he picked the right side port master cylinder lines. I actually have a set of left ported master cylinder already, but they're not stainless steel. I have thought about not buying the rest of the lines right now & if I did that, I could just cut the front to rear line like they tell ya in that article & add in the prop valve. But a shop would have to do that, I'm not sure if I can put new ends on the lines to fit in the valve. I'd need specific tool & ends. Oh & yeah my car has a Dana 60 rear end.

[darbgnik]

Honestly, the easiest thing to do, and probably the same price as scouring for your mix and match parts would be to just give Cass a call at Dr. Diff, he'll save all the legwork(googling) for you, sell you everything you need, with experience on what works together. He'll sell you lines, prop valves, master/booster(either modern or period correct).


I pieced my system all together, and in the end had all the missing pieces put together by Dr Diff. I should have called him from the start, and his prices are in line with eBay, etc.

[Phillips68charger]

Hmm, I'm not familiar. How do I find his website?

[darbgnik]

Hmm, I'm not familiar. How do I find his website?

https://www.doctordiff.com

[lloyd3]

FWIW: mine's a Dodge Main car, so maybe they were the source of this Bendix booster oddity?  The SPD on mine is 6th of July in '68 (late production) if that makes any difference.  I suspect they built with whatever was on hand, depending on the vagaries of the supply chain then.  To my eye...the Midland Ross unit looks overly big and bulky so I'm not disappointed in any way by what's on there. It looks appropriate to me.

[tan top]

Oh that's OK man, it's me, I've been going back & forth last few days, re-thinking my options & just trying to decide my best route. I don't want to have to go down this road again & want it to be taken care of for a while, lol.

A little back story. When I bought the car back in 07, i didnt ask enough questions.I took it for granted that it was factory disc. I didn't have the fender tag checked. I drove the car regular until the brakes went south around 2014.Up until around that time, everything was good, engine ran good, still does, but I never checked anything with the brakes or anything cause it didn't need nothing. After brakes got worse, I knew the master cylinder was bad & lines going to m.c needed replacing & wasn't for sure about the booster.

I was told by a mechanic this summer that my booster was bad & over time it cause the m. c to fail. To be honest, I'm not for sure if the booster on it, is bad. It doesn't have hard brakes. Just spongey & goes to floor barely stopping.
I heard it's best to replace the booster if replacing master cylinder. So that's what I did. The actual brakes, Rotor, pads look OK. But every single brake line & brake hoses on the car is badly rusted & hoses dry rotted. . At first I was just gonna replace what was needed but figured it was best to replace it all & be done.
So not knowing if it was done right in the first place was 1 thing. And making sure it will be right now is the other.

So keeping all the brake hardware is fine with me as long as it's right. But as you said, I will need that adjustable proportioning valve & I just wanted to make sure I buy the right lines. That eBay listing isn't what I picked, it's what inline tube sent me after sending the guy a question. I didn't notice he picked the right side port master cylinder lines. I actually have a set of left ported master cylinder already, but they're not stainless steel. I have thought about not buying the rest of the lines right now & if I did that, I could just cut the front to rear line like they tell ya in that article & add in the prop valve. But a shop would have to do that, I'm not sure if I can put new ends on the lines to fit in the valve. I'd need specific tool & ends. Oh & yeah my car has a Dana 60 rear end.

got a Dana    , i assumed you still had the original 8-3/4
 Hmm that booster diagnoses sounds  a bit odd , i've always known when a booster is done for the brake pedal is hard ,  to test to see if it working !  with engine off  pump the pedal 3 or 4 times to expel any remaining vacuum if any,  with foot hard down on brake pedal start the engine  moment the motor starts your feel the brake pedal sink a little ive never measured by how much every car will be different  , but   1/2 " maybe a little more ....  same as when you shut the motor off  pump the pedal a few times & it will sink a little a few times & then go hard when all the vacuum has been expelled if it does all what ive just said ok then the booster is working , a blocked or split vacuum line  will seem like  the booster has failed & cause a hard pedal also a radical cam will / can cause  to lower engine vacuum for the booster to work.
 but for the pedal  to go almost to the floor  / spongey  any fluid leaks ? sounds like air in the system some where , have you checked for obvious leaks wheel cylinders etc , with out actually being there it could be one or all or a combination of the following failed  piston seals in the master cylinder ,could be rubber brake hoses deteriorated they might be ballooning  under pressure, also when seals go in a master cylinder brake fluid can leak into the booster, i'm no expert on brake boosters but i would not have thought  faulty booster would cause the problem if at all but maybe that & something else what ive mentioned above , unless there is some internal damage maybe with push rod but then you say it stops but  pedal almost to the floor... just guessing on the booster never taken one apart  had a working one side by  side with one that is faulty etc  
good idea with the age or our cars & no knowing what the previous owners been up to to replace both & all rubber parts at least as a minimum . i tend to forget when explaining stuff i imagine my self doing it i forget not every one has access to all the tools & hardware & stuff to hand in their garage ,  a parts store will prolly  put the ends on  for you , &  can normally  buy hard line by the length how much you need etc although have not needed to buy hard line like that & have someone else put the ends put on for 30 years so they might not even offer that service now !nothing is the same as it use to be  . if you buy copper nickel brake line you can successfully  put the correct double flares on with buying just a hand held tool , if you go steel or stainless your need the  proper hydraulic vice mounted tool anyways enough on my rambling ! good luck with your brake set up on your charger with what ever direction you decide to go !    

FWIW: mine's a Dodge Main car, so maybe they were the source of this Bendix booster oddity?  The SPD on mine is 6th of July in '68 (late production) if that makes any difference.  I suspect they built with whatever was on hand, depending on the vagaries of the supply chain then.  To my eye...the Midland Ross units looks overly big and bulky so I'm not disappointed in any way by what's on there. It looks appropriate to me.

although ive posted more 69s with that bendix  drum booster , it seems like ive seen more 67 /68 with it  
yes i see what your saying how the bendix looks

below is  midland ross , sure i had another aerial shot of this in color saved a long time  go  

[Phillips68charger]

I understand what your saying. I was unsure about it all & with everything being old & rusted, it just seemed like a good idea to replace everything that I could with new brake parts for the long haul & to add value to my car.

I did think about leaving the booster that's on it, on there & just hook up my new master cylinder just to see how it does but from what we've discussed here is that my car was factory manual drum & so a previous owner added this power booster & it's not original which is what I want. 

I have a question about the front to rear line. So you think it would be best to order the 1 piece & then cut the line to fit that adjustable proportionig valve like they show in that disc-o brake article? Is the 2 piece line out of question because it's meant to be used with that brass one or could I use it? I don't how many inches difference there would be with those 2 types of valves.

[tan top]

I understand what your saying. I was unsure about it all & with everything being old & rusted, it just seemed like a good idea to replace everything that I could with new brake parts for the long haul & to add value to my car.

I did think about leaving the booster that's on it, on there & just hook up my new master cylinder just to see how it does but from what we've discussed here is that my car was factory manual drum & so a previous owner added this power booster & it's not original which is what I want.  

I have a question about the front to rear line. So you think it would be best to order the 1 piece & then cut the line to fit that adjustable proportionig valve like they show in that disc-o brake article? Is the 2 piece line out of question because it's meant to be used with that brass one or could I use it? I don't how many inches difference there would be with those 2 types of valves.

if it was me & was not making my own lines up ,  yes would order the  four wheel drum brake front to rear line ,  see IMO if you use the  factory OEM front to rear line with the original style brass valve & attempt to put the adjustable  on in its place , it will be on the inside of the frame rail ( engine side ) will be awkward to adjust ( not that you would want to once dialed in ) also if you have or going to fit headers depending on what type  some types could run really close to valve . also ( if you still have the starter / trans linkage  splash shield fitted  could / will / might be in the way.
when you buy the new  pre made brake lines in a B-body line kit or  individually they are always slightly longer then originals (  well mine were but that was over 20 years ago ) . i agree what (darbgnik) said  Dr Diff  is a good Guy   https://www.doctordiff.com/
first four pictures A shows the factory brass valve location & the splash shield i mentioned
pictures  5 & 6  marked B are what i was explaining about if headers are fitted, this is only a couple of styles i could find at minute that shows the right angle  where an adjustable value would be fitted
picture 7 marked D looks like an owner has fitted an adjustable valve bit further back from stock brass ones location, looks ok there & easy to adjust but its  protruding below the frame rail, vulnerable to damage imo
picture C probably where i would locate it , although some fit it in engine bay on inner fender next to the master cylinder or even in side the car under the dash or on floor , but that takes a bit of creative handy work (time) pipe bending etc.

[tan top]

tan top: Thankyou for that!  Mine does appear to be the Bendix drum booster. The Midland-Ross units look surprisingly different when you really look closely at them (in arguably original cars, many are not even painted), and that removeable band around the middle is fairly unique. The crimped assembly on the Bendix bodies is quite different from that. Yet another minor mystery resolved here due to sheer diligence and deep institutional knowledge.

found the brake booster web site i mentioned in a earlier post in this thread  , that i could  not find at the time !


HARMON CLASSIC BRAKES never used this guy, but looks to have a lot of awesome brake rebuilding parts inventory & also does rebuilds    
heres web site   https://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb.dll?Parta~PartSort~A0~cadfffkz~~~~A30~A11

also screen capture  of brake boosters !!!   check out  part number 62-616 master -vac Bendix

[Dano 1]

I converted my power drum '69 to power front disc using late model OEM parts recently and posted my parts list which you may find helpful.

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,137970.msg1710233.html#msg1710233

I put my proportioning valve up by the master cylinder for easy adjustment. I made a short hard line to connect the master cylinder to the valve and used the stock line from the valve down. On a drum car there is no stock proportioning valve there is just a distribution block which sends equal pressure to front/rear. I wasn't too concerned about seeing the valve in the engine bay so I chose easy adjustment over a concealed location. 

[375instroke]

Not being able to post photos direct is making it hard for me on here. I tried imgur & it still just posted a link.

Did you post the link that looks like this: [img ]http://***[/img ]

[375instroke]

So many pics.  Some show the dual Bendix, disc brake master exit on the driver's side, and some on the passenger side.  Are both correct?  I thought it was passenger side for 440, and driver's side for Hemi.

[Phillips68charger]

Hey yall, I haven't been on here since my last post & didn't see the last few after my last until mow.Yes, I understand about the proportioning valve & where to install & I bought the wildwood brand self adjustable with classic industries.
But, let me tell you all what's happened in the last month.

First though, I do know now that for a 68 with front disc brakes the master cylinder was right ported. The left ported was for hemi cars. And even though there's not a reproduction of the right ported correct bendix m. c, I forget the #'s, there is a couple originals on ebay & are costly. Anyway, the left ported is what was on the car & when I bought my parts I was replacing how it was.

OK, so here's what's happened. I bought the stainless steel lines from inline tube from ebay & got them in 3 days free ship. I got the self adjusting proportioning valve & between having a sinus cold & other work to do, i asked my local brake shop if they would put the m. c., booster & lines ect on the far & they said yes. I gave them all the info they needed & told them if any problem come up to let me know.

A week later they called me to say that the new master cylinder was leaking from a pin hole where it mounts on.
I went over there & they had m. c., booster & all my lines connected but ordered a piece of line to connect to my front to rear line. I ordered the 2 Piece so I could place the adjustable proportioning valve in between. They argued me up & down that I didn't it the prop valve that that was for drag racing. And I'm just stunned that the pros are telling me this. He kept saying the distribution valve was the proportioning valve.Well I wasn't happy about it but thought it wouldn't be a big deal to add the prop valve later so I let it slide for the sake of arguing.

So, anyway they're telling me they've already kept my car longer than they needed to & my car was taking up their stall so instead of waiting another week for classic to ship me another m. c, I bought another same one & spent $55 to get it shipped 3 days. Since I bought 1,i thought classic would refund me for the first one but a few days later they sent me a 3rd m. c. This has been 1 more hoot, let me tell ya.

So, finally here's where I'm at. The brake shop calls me to say, everything is hooked up & everything's been bled but no brakes & goes to the floor. He questions me asking 8f I'm sure I got the right m. c. & booster & I said yeah, it should work. Still he advised me getting another booster & told me I needed to get a wrecker to haul my car back home. Which I did & payed $65 doing so. I felt so depressed I'm not gonna lie.

When I press the brake with the engine off, it's hard to mash down but will go to floor with a tension on it.
When you crank the car the pedal goes all the way to the floor fast with no brakes whatsoever. I drove it to their shop. It wasnt much brake but I made it. That's where I'm at, what y'all think? Ive got a shop manual on CD & I'm trying to learn as much as I can.
Could be air still in the lines but I'm also confused about how the pedal acts when its not running too. I shouldn't be able to push it to the floor when it's not running right? Could it be the push rod with the m. c. or with the booster not adjusted right. I know the brake light switch is not touching now & tails are staying on. I've checked for leaks & I don't see any. I'm not seeing any air bubbles inside the m. c. when brakes are applied. I am seeing the smaller bowl pump fluid up & barely if any on the right bigger bowl. Not sure if that's normal.

OH Another thing at the brake shop, they also brought up the check valve being different & I said I know that was 1 thing that worried me at first but I was told by guys that own chargers that I would connect my headlight door vacuum hose to my manifold vacuum port. We discussed this on here in this post. And they swore it would work that it would make the car miss, run rough. Well when I got back home with the car, that's where I hooked it up at & it runs the same as it did. What a headache, a lot of money & time for nothing it seems.

[Phillips68charger]

I converted my power drum '69 to power front disc using late model OEM parts recently and posted my parts list which you may find helpful.

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,137970.msg1710233.html#msg1710233

I put my proportioning valve up by the master cylinder for easy adjustment. I made a short hard line to connect the master cylinder to the valve and used the stock line from the valve down. On a drum car there is no stock proportioning valve there is just a distribution block which sends equal pressure to front/rear. I wasn't too concerned about seeing the valve in the engine bay so I chose easy adjustment over a concealed location. 

Awesome, thanks for the link. That's what a previous owner did with my car is used later model OEM parts. Didn't realize it until this post when my fender tag was decoded. My car was also drum only.

[tan top]

Hey yall, I haven't been on here since my last post & didn't see the last few after my last until mow.Yes, I understand about the proportioning valve & where to install & I bought the wildwood brand self adjustable with classic industries.
But, let me tell you all what's happened in the last month.

First though, I do know now that for a 68 with front disc brakes the master cylinder was right ported. The left ported was for hemi cars. And even though there's not a reproduction of the right ported correct bendix m. c, I forget the #'s, there is a couple originals on ebay & are costly. Anyway, the left ported is what was on the car & when I bought my parts I was replacing how it was.

OK, so here's what's happened. I bought the stainless steel lines from inline tube from ebay & got them in 3 days free ship. I got the self adjusting proportioning valve & between having a sinus cold & other work to do, i asked my local brake shop if they would put the m. c., booster & lines ect on the far & they said yes. I gave them all the info they needed & told them if any problem come up to let me know.

A week later they called me to say that the new master cylinder was leaking from a pin hole where it mounts on.
I went over there & they had m. c., booster & all my lines connected but ordered a piece of line to connect to my front to rear line. I ordered the 2 Piece so I could place the adjustable proportioning valve in between. They argued me up & down that I didn't it the prop valve that that was for drag racing. And I'm just stunned that the pros are telling me this. He kept saying the distribution valve was the proportioning valve.Well I wasn't happy about it but thought it wouldn't be a big deal to add the prop valve later so I let it slide for the sake of arguing.

So, anyway they're telling me they've already kept my car longer than they needed to & my car was taking up their stall so instead of waiting another week for classic to ship me another m. c, I bought another same one & spent $55 to get it shipped 3 days. Since I bought 1,i thought classic would refund me for the first one but a few days later they sent me a 3rd m. c. This has been 1 more hoot, let me tell ya.

So, finally here's where I'm at. The brake shop calls me to say, everything is hooked up & everything's been bled but no brakes & goes to the floor. He questions me asking 8f I'm sure I got the right m. c. & booster & I said yeah, it should work. Still he advised me getting another booster & told me I needed to get a wrecker to haul my car back home. Which I did & payed $65 doing so. I felt so depressed I'm not gonna lie.

When I press the brake with the engine off, it's hard to mash down but will go to floor with a tension on it.
When you crank the car the pedal goes all the way to the floor fast with no brakes whatsoever. I drove it to their shop. It wasnt much brake but I made it. That's where I'm at, what y'all think? Ive got a shop manual on CD & I'm trying to learn as much as I can.
Could be air still in the lines but I'm also confused about how the pedal acts when its not running too. I shouldn't be able to push it to the floor when it's not running right? Could it be the push rod with the m. c. or with the booster not adjusted right. I know the brake light switch is not touching now & tails are staying on. I've checked for leaks & I don't see any. I'm not seeing any air bubbles inside the m. c. when brakes are applied. I am seeing the smaller bowl pump fluid up & barely if any on the right bigger bowl. Not sure if that's normal.

OH Another thing at the brake shop, they also brought up the check valve being different & I said I know that was 1 thing that worried me at first but I was told by guys that own chargers that I would connect my headlight door vacuum hose to my manifold vacuum port. We discussed this on here in this post. And they swore it would work that it would make the car miss, run rough. Well when I got back home with the car, that's where I hooked it up at & it runs the same as it did. What a headache, a lot of money & time for nothing it seems.

wondered how the charger brakes were going  ! not heard back so assumed  was all sorted ! bummer sorry to hear this !!  cant begin to say what the shop done or doing & or even seeing what parts to go or was already on there , with out actually being there .   i forget  !  did you check  to see if there was some sort of  proportioning valve  fitted when it was converted to discs , because it must of been working correctly at one point , anyway not that it matters , if the brake pedal going to the floor  sounds like there air still in it  , or  push rod needs adjusting ,  i assume you have the correct  booster linkage  to brake pedal under dash !  could be a faulty  (NEW) master cylinder , it happens  i had one from A1cardon  ( there is a thread somewhere )  just would not bleed ,  bench or on car , even drawing fluid through it  , still no good , bought another  swapped & bleed in 10 minutes perfect.  so dont discount a faulty new part .
   think i must of missed the  rough running  , i'm a bit confused ( dont take much ) about the rough running  i remember the  bit about  the  booster vacuum hose going to the rear on the intake , & headlamp vacuum line going to the same vacuum tree .  if the rough running is still the same , try  disconnecting  both  the booster & headlamp canister vacuum lines from the back of the intake  & plug the  holes on the intake  , if the idle smooths out  stable , then there is a vacuum leak some where ,  then its a process of elimination , connect booster ,  if idle still smooth , remove that  & connect headlamp vacuum hose , if idle  gets rough  , its  vacuum leak in the headlamp set up  some where  ,  could be  hoses  , two T  pieces  , canister ,  actuators  , or a good chance it might just be the headlamp switch  or even all. if still funning rough , check else where for vacuum leaks

[Phillips68charger]

Replying to tantop -
Its been a costly mess & I did everything I could to avoid it.
Cold weather's moved in & I don't have a garage.I've had an allergy sinus cold for months & that has slowed me down.From looking up the brake valve parts online to others on here to watching rammans brake videos, I understand that what my car has installed is a distribution block. All the brake lines tie into it including the brake warning light switch located right below the master cylinder.
Ramman shows all the different valves by yr that factory disc brakes had including 68 having the small brass proportioning valve under the left fender probably a foot or so from distribution Block.

Me bringing that adjustable Valve confused the shop. These shops they ain't gonna take time to learn anything specific cause they already know it all. But I bought a 2 piece front to rear nrake line just for the extra prop. valve. Right now it seems irrelevant to the bigger problem of no brakes. Unless it had something to do with it & I don't think it would. And the master cylinder that's on it now is the second new replacement. I do have a third m.c in the box that I've got lined up to send back for a refund.

[tan top]

Replying to tantop -
Its been a costly mess & I did everything I could to avoid it.
Cold weather's moved in & I don't have a garage.I've had an allergy sinus cold for months & that has slowed me down.From looking up the brake valve parts online to others on here to watching rammans brake videos, I understand that what my car has installed is a distribution block. All the brake lines tie into it including the brake warning light switch located right below the master cylinder.
Ramman shows all the different valves by yr that factory disc brakes had including 68 having the small brass proportioning valve under the left fender probably a foot or so from distribution Block.

Me bringing that adjustable Valve confused the shop. These shops they ain't gonna take time to learn anything specific cause they already know it all. But I bought a 2 piece front to rear nrake line just for the extra prop. valve. Right now it seems irrelevant to the bigger problem of no brakes. Unless it had something to do with it & I don't think it would. And the master cylinder that's on it now is the second new replacement. I do have a third m.c in the box that I've got lined up to send back for a refund.

yeah i cant see why its not working from whats been said & explained  originally before it going to the shop!   adjustable proportioning valve  goes in the rear line after the distribution block on original drum cars,  with out that valve  because  discs need more line pressure to work , your rear drums will prolly lock up before you can get maximum effective braking force from the front , even if you have no valve  & no air in system  the pedal should not go to the floor . 

 

[Phillips68charger]

Yeah, the car never had the proportioning valve since ive owned it & it did have decent brakes.Over time, the brakes got worse. I never had it professionally diagnosed, which maybe I should've.The master cylinder was rusted bad & a master cylinder line was also bent. Visually that's what people I showed it to would point to. I'm not sure if the booster was bad. Like I had said before, I just thought it was a good idea to replace both with what originally came on a front disc /drum on 68. Only things I know to do is to
Bleed the master & lines at the wheel again. I can check the clearance on the master pushrod to booster rod. Do a vacuum test on the booster. I even thought about wheel cylinders. I see no leaks though.