(Starter)Am I missing something, or is this "you get what you pay for" category?

[XS29L9Bxxxxxx]

Looking to replace the pesky starter since the solenoid doesn't seem cooperative and I have to bypass to start the car.   FUN 

Anyways, Parksgeek has a 6.3L compatible starter for $26.18

https://www.partsgeek.com/ss/?i=1&ssq=1969+dodge+starter

What am I missing? 

Car is a 1969 Charger w/ 383

Also, while I have your attention, any comments on PS Reservoir choices too? Thanks

[RallyeMike]

Bypassing a starter solenoid? You mean hitting it with a hammer?

Anyhow...... when I used to buy those cheapo "lifetime" remanf's starters back in the day they were always hit and miss. I had two not work at all right out the box and another fail the following day. They run these through the rebuild mill quick and cheap because they don't have the liability of having to replace them again and again. You get what you pay for.

[XH29N0G]

I am trying to parse two things in your original post the "jump the solenoid' and 'what am I missing?'

For the first: I think the jump the solenoid you may mean shorting the main positive line to the post that activates the solenoid.  If this is the case, it may be that you are just not getting voltage to that post from some other part of your ignition system.  I would verify this with a voltmeter.  It might not be your starter. 

For the second:  I need clarification on that it is you are missing. 

For what it is worth, on the recommendation of others here that it would be easier to install a smaller unit, I purchased a smaller starter from db electrical (I think for a small truck with an LA engine) and installed it without issue.  I have headers and it was easier to lever into place.  If I recall correctly, I had to modify where the wires hook up to avoid interference with the block, but that was minor.

[bakerhillpins]

Bypassing/shorting the starter solenoid is simply shorting the high current contacts together, thus bypassing the need to use the key/hold coil to activate the high current switch.

What am I missing?  

Nope, not missing anything, they are that cheap... I put one in a few years ago and it's been running fine. However, RallyeMike's point stands about them being hit or miss.

[b5blue]

If you have an automatic check your neutral safety switch first, then check the solenoid itself. If you buy a starter, get the best "lifetime warranty" one from the closest parts store so shipping isn't an issue. 

[John_Kunkel]

The OP needs to differentiate between the firewall relay and the starter solenoid. 

[XS29L9Bxxxxxx]

Okay, what I did when the car would not start (activate the starter) with a turn of the key, was:


Left key "on"
Popped hood
Bridged the block on firewall beside brake booster
Car cranked and started


So one may surmise the starter motor works...    But what doesn't? 

[RallyeMike]

Could be many things, but start with the most likely culprits first:

1. Check that your wiring harness is still plugged into the Neutral Safety Switch on the transmission (drivers side by the speedo cable).
2. Wiggle the firing wall wiring block (bulkhead connector) to make sure the connections are not loose.
3. Check your Neutral safety switch itself by grounding the lower right terminal of the starter relay (block on firewall) and trying to start. If it then starts, your Neutral Safety Switch is bad.

It could also be that your Starter Relay is bad (easy replacement), your Ignition Switch is bad, or you have a wiring issue or burnt terminal at the bulkhead connector.

[bakerhillpins]

I'm putting my money on the key switch assuming it's intermittent?   Is it or does it just not work from the key anymore? It's way easier to trace when it's just plain old stopped working.

[b5blue]

I forgot...You did try the wiggle the shifter while key in cranking test right? 

[XS29L9Bxxxxxx]

I did move shifter as I tried to start. No luck

[BrianShaughnessy]

How about a bad / misadjusted neutral safety switch?     Does it work in N instead of P?    Nevermind... didn't see the responses above.

[John_Kunkel]

Okay, what I did when the car would not start (activate the starter) with a turn of the key, was:


Left key "on"
Popped hood
Bridged the block on firewall beside brake booster
Car cranked and started

You bridged the relay.

Find the terminal on the relay marked "G", remove the wire and use a wire to ground the terminal. If the starter will engage repeatedly with that terminal grounded, the problem is at the NSS switch or its wire. Be sure the shifter is in Neutral and the parking brake set firmly when turning the key to Start with the G terminal grounded because it will start in any gear with the G terminal grounded.

If the starter still won't engage with the G terminal grounded, the problem is in the start circuit from the ign. switch.

[XH29N0G]

If none of this works, get a multimeter, the wiring diagram, and start systematically tracing continuity between different parts of the circuit.   I know this is a pain in the ass, but sometimes it is the only way to track down these sorts of things.


In my 70, I found once that the connection to the keyswitch was losing contact and once that the feedthrough on the firewall lost contact.  Both created issues with starting.

If you haven''t used a multimeter and decide to go this route, we can help walk you through it. You are looking forno resistance (ohms) between different ends of the wire.  You can trick yourself if you do not disconnect one end of the wire because the circuit can be made from the other side. 

Sometimes it is the only way I have found to solve a problem like this.  The other is to track voltage to different parts of the system.

[375instroke]

As looking at the relay studs, the bottom right vertical terminal gets ground from the neutral safety switch, so you should read ground in Park or Neutral.  The bottom left angled terminal gets power from the ignition switch.  Check for that to narrow down your search.

[XS29L9Bxxxxxx]

Thanks guys.  I'll try this further