Started the HEMI swap in my 1968 Charger

[TTSaleen]

Yep.  Actually started the swap in the car by pulling the original 318 engine out.
Here's a couple pics along with a video (I love to document stuff for future reference).  

Link to vid ->    https://youtu.be/VFEsHfNxUi4

[b5blue]

What ya doing with the old stuff? 

[tan top]

    

[XH29N0G]

Thanks for posting.   

[TTSaleen]

Started a little more progress.
Dropped the 5.7 HEMI in the car last night.
Hooked up the NAG1 transmission.
Tried to complete the transmission crossmember (Hooker brand), but ran into a problem.
The factory tunnel is too small and it hits.  I found that Hooker makes a replacement part that goes in there so I had to order it (next week before it ships).

A few things.
The alternator fits.
The A/C compressor does not fit.  It hits both the motor mount bolt and some of the K-frame.  So I need to get a shorter motor mount bolt and notch the K-frame slightly around the motor mount support.
The oil filter relocation kit came with 45 degree fittings for the block, but you cannot install both as they hit each other.  I ordered a straight #10AN to 3/8 NPT pipe fitting and installed on the bottom and it should now work fine.  You need the 45 at the top to clear the alternator.

Need to hammer on the tunnel a little around the shifter area and massage a few items on the trans where it might hit the body once the trans is up fully in position.

[b5blue]

Wow changes! 

[TTSaleen]

What ya doing with the old stuff? 

Sorry I didn't respond to this before.
While this is the original engine and transmission out of the car, I really don't have a place to store it indefinitely until one day when someone buys the car (when I'm long gone).
After all the work I'm going to do on the swap over and modernizing of the drivetrain, I am never going back to the 318/904 combo.
So most likely I'll sell it.

If you are interested, let me know.

Also here's a recent video of the HEMI going into the Charger and I talk about some of the issues.
Link to vid --> https://youtu.be/FSVzX0-_1xI

[XH29N0G]

I just read the statement about the tunnel being too small and a different crossmember needing to be used and hammering the tunnel.  You seem to know a lot more than me, but I'll chime in anyway. 

I suggest setting it up now with the proper driveline angles and if that means cutting and modifying the tunnel rather than a different cross member and hammering, I would opt for that. 

Thanks for posting. 

[TTSaleen]

Somewhat of an update.
Been waiting on Hooker to send me the crossmember support bracket.
The painted one I purchased is not shipping till end of the month but the non-painted one is in stock.
After going back and forth, they cancelled my 1st order and had me reorder the non-painted one.
It arrived in 2 days.  

The instructions say you have to modify the floor with a hammer and body shop tool to clear the brace.  Well after a bit of hammering, there was no way this was going to fit.
So I chose to slice an opening in the floor and peel back the metal to get the brace to fit properly.
I plan to hammer the floor back as flush as possible and then have it welded around the brace for strength.  Then apply seam-sealer and paint.

Also it is a good idea to drill the 4 holes between the upper crossmember brace and the lower out a little larger (1/2") to allow easier bolt access.

Finally the NAG1 rear mount holes did not line up with the crossmember as advertised.
I attribute that to the TTI engine mounts I used and not the Hooker mounts (which they state you must use).
I assume the Hooker mounts move the engine forward about 1 to 2 inch and would make the holes line up in the NAG1 mount.
I simply redrilled the holes and had to modify the structural support by cutting the metal back and grinding the plate flat in that area for the rubber mount to fit flush.

But the NAG1 transmission is now in place.

[TTSaleen]

Some updated progress pics.
Working on a video, but I know unless you are doing this swap some of this stuff is not exciting.   

[TTSaleen]

2 months later, still waiting on Hotwireauto to build my wiring harness...........
in the interim, I've upgraded the entire fuel system with the following -
Aeromotive Stealth fuel tank with 340lph pump
8AN feed line, 6AN return line
PTFE lines from Fragola 6000 series with their fittings

Also started the battery relocation kit (putting battery in trunk since it no longer fits comfortably in the engine bay).
Got the kit from Summit Racing.  I like the look of the black plastic box instead of the aluminum one.  Sadly my current battery is too big, so I have to source a smaller size.

Here's a few pics.

[b5blue]

 

[cdr]

Great job !!!!! lookin AWESOME 

[TTSaleen]

Great job !!!!! lookin AWESOME  

Thanks guys.

Picked up my new custom driveshaft today.
I talk about it in an upcoming video on my YouTube page soon.  Working on editing it now.
I figured I'll throw in the fuel system upgrade, battery relocation, and driveshaft all in one video to make it interesting.
It's hard to figure out what the audience finds interesting (for those that aren't building a car or doing this particular swap).

[TTSaleen]

Fuel system upgrade -

Video - https://youtu.be/ZKKsPMja4XY

[Lennard]

Fuel system upgrade -

Video - https://youtu.be/ZKKsPMja4XY

[TTSaleen]

Driveshaft upgrade -
Video - https://youtu.be/qxKxf9fKmKg

[mrob]

Hi,

Following your build with great interest. 

Question about the cooling system: what radiator and fans are you using? Does the radiator opening need to be cut? How about mounting the radiator?

[TTSaleen]

Hi,
Following your build with great interest. 
Question about the cooling system: what radiator and fans are you using? Does the radiator opening need to be cut? How about mounting the radiator?

Hello.  Happy to answer.  The radiator and fan combo came right out of the 2006 Dodge Charger Daytona donor car.
The 68 Charger opening is factory (no cutting), however I did have to fabricate some mounting brackets and drill some new holes to mount the radiator.
I also used bolts and some spacers to ensure the radiator and AC condenser were mounted properly and not make contact that might cause a leak later on.
I also incorporated the factory rubber isolators top and bottom of the radiator to allow it to move around some and minimize vibration as well. 
Those radiators are plastic and can break/crack (known issue).
For the cooling fans, I am running the Dakota Digital 2800BT controller.
Thanks!
Ryan

[TTSaleen]

Ammeter to Volt Gauge Change
Video - https://youtu.be/JtXOS_jOHfQ

[TTSaleen]

Quick Exhaust setup (Temporary) for now -
Video  -  https://youtu.be/ySSdah2-8OA

[TTSaleen]

HEMI swap harness using NAG1 transmission arrived 11/30/2021.
Now it's time to get it installed and figure out how to hide all the stuff connected to it inside the car.......

[TTSaleen]

Wiring Harness install and 1st Startup Video -
Click here ---> https://youtu.be/9DRbMG_tvT0

[TTSaleen]

First test drive last night.
Car runs, but I have a problem with the transmission not shifting in AUTO mode.
I assume this is a problem getting a signal from the speed sensors and that tone ring mod.

So have some bugs to work out, but the car made it a quick 2 mile round trip to the store for gas and back.
No overheating (fans and thermostat work great).
Charges battery great (over 14 volts consistently).
New steering box and suspension mods feel great.

[b5blue]

Sweet!