News:

It appears that the upgrade forces a login and many, many of you have forgotten your passwords and didn't set up any reminders. Contact me directly through helpmelogin@dodgecharger.com and I'll help sort it out.

Main Menu

Is my 8 3/4 rear dying?

Started by DAmatt, May 29, 2021, 01:23:45 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

WhiteOnGreen

IMO, videp clip looks like the noise appears when you leave the throttle, said coasting and  that's why I think it's a pinion and ring adjustment

cdr

It probably needs to be rebuilt, the loose nut will ruin the gears and bearings & full of metal filings 
LINK TO MY STORY http://www.onallcylinders.com/2015/11/16/ride-shares-charlie-keel-battles-cancer-ms-to-build-brilliant-1968-dodge-charger/  
                                                                                           
68 Charger 512 cid,9.7to1,Hilborn EFI,Home ported 440 source heads,small hyd roller cam,COLD A/C ,,a518 trans,Dana 60 ,4.10 gear,10.93 et,4100lbs on street tires full exhaust daily driver
Charger55 by Charlie Keel, on Flickr

b5blue

Remove the filler plug on the side and check for metal in the oil. (I have a tiny magnet taped to a length of coat hanger wire that I use.)

DAmatt

*UPDATE*

I paid $130 (parts+shipping) for the nut that tightens the pinion shaft to 250lbft, in hope that I would be able to fix the howling in the rear end. Alas, 'twas not to be.

I ordered a new third member from Dr. Diff, and new axle shafts with green bearings. Considering the fact that the new axles have no reverse thread bolts, do I need to buy normal nuts? Or are they included?

I went this route because nobody here knows or wants to setup a diff.

Now to my surprise, even when asking several mechanics to just swap the pig & axles, they all declined, saying it is too complicated. What the hell is going on?

I admit I am a bit intimidated by the things involved, my area of expertise is in a whole other zip code (the justice system), but should all come to worst, can I do it on my own with a quickjack, standard length?

Could I die in the attempt? :)

What does it entail?

Do I need to disconnect the rear brakes (i.e. spill brake fluid allover the garage floor :)) )? Do I need to readjust them after that? How do I pull the axles? How do I put the new axles with green as opposed to adjustable bearings?

Is there anything I should know or may have missed?

Technical, and moral support, is greatly appreciated :)

1968 Charger R/T auto, matching numbers 440 rebuilt to stock specs w/ L2355F .030 pistons & .039 gasket, MP 4452783 cam, stock 4637S Carter AVS rebuilt by Harms automotive feeding a stock 2806178 intake manifold. Air gets into unported 906 heads with hardened seats, and exits through HP manifolds and through an Accurate 2.5 to 2.25 aluminized exhaust to the 2.25 stock chrome tips. Still in awe of what the engineers were able to do more than half a century ago!

b5blue

You'll need 5 nuts. The chunk is ready so pretty straight forward swap out. You have a factory service manual?  :scratchchin:

73chgrSE

I see I'm not the only one finding it really really hard to find any reputable shop to work on these older cars. People just do not want to touch them. I have done a lot myself but some stuff I just don't have the knowledge to tackle.

Good luck!

b5blue

I think the shops do not understand this is a unbolt remove and bolt back in operation. They think they need to calibrate the chunk before install.  :scratchchin:

DAmatt

Quote from: b5blue on July 07, 2021, 12:21:15 PM
I think the shops do not understand this is a unbolt remove and bolt back in operation. They think they need to calibrate the chunk before install.  :scratchchin:

Unfortunately no. I clearly said no diff adjustment would have to be made, but they said that it's very complicated to remove the brakes, and axles. And that you have to drain the brake fluid, because the drums will be disconnected, and that after the swap, you have to recalibrate the rear brakes. They said this is an exotic car, like a Ferrari, and thus only specialists can handle such a complex task.

I think it's just the laziness to learn something you're not unfamiliar with, but hey, what do I know?...

I'll look again in the FSM, but do I need to setup the rear drums?
1968 Charger R/T auto, matching numbers 440 rebuilt to stock specs w/ L2355F .030 pistons & .039 gasket, MP 4452783 cam, stock 4637S Carter AVS rebuilt by Harms automotive feeding a stock 2806178 intake manifold. Air gets into unported 906 heads with hardened seats, and exits through HP manifolds and through an Accurate 2.5 to 2.25 aluminized exhaust to the 2.25 stock chrome tips. Still in awe of what the engineers were able to do more than half a century ago!

b5blue

No "setup". Look on you tube I'll bet there are videos.

RallyeMike

You can undo the bolts and slide the axles out past the brakes without having to disassemble any brake parts. 
1969 Charger 500 #232008
1972 Charger, Grand Sport #41
1973 Charger "T/A"

Drive as fast as you want to on a public road! Click here for info: http://www.sscc.us/

b5blue


DAmatt

* UPDATE*

I managed to swap in Cass' third member & axles. Everything works well now.

For somebody who didn't even change his own oil, this was a huge step, and a steep learning curve.

A warm thank you to all you guys who helped along the way, now I feel more confident in tackling problems on my car.

I took pics along the way, thinking of making a walkthrough, but I am now writing from work, the only place inwhich I am not banned, and I'm not sure I have time @ work for this. I don't know why this happens, Troy was very open to help, but said most likely due to my VPN. Even after deleting cookies & turning VPN off, the ban would remain. I think I may be forced to migrate to the "other" site.

Again, thank you all for all the help with this, and other issues I had with the car!
1968 Charger R/T auto, matching numbers 440 rebuilt to stock specs w/ L2355F .030 pistons & .039 gasket, MP 4452783 cam, stock 4637S Carter AVS rebuilt by Harms automotive feeding a stock 2806178 intake manifold. Air gets into unported 906 heads with hardened seats, and exits through HP manifolds and through an Accurate 2.5 to 2.25 aluminized exhaust to the 2.25 stock chrome tips. Still in awe of what the engineers were able to do more than half a century ago!

b5blue