air shock recommendation

[r4daytona]

I just picked up a very nice 63 convertible.  I want to install an air shock kit just to give it a little lift in the rear.  Everything I see on Amazon looks like they have plastic fittings. I read the reviews for the Monroe shock kit and they were mostly horrible because of the plastic fittings - and all the rest look like plastic fittings as well.  I called my local Autozone and they don't have, or can get, them.  Any recommendations/advice?  Thanks

[birdsandbees]

They all have plastic fittings. I took the air shocks (with plastic fittings and lines) off my Bee during restoration. They were installed in 1978 and still held air.

[Daytona R/T SE]

I've got some with the "plastic fittings" on my '72 charger.

I ordered them from JC Whitney 25 years ago, they are still holding up to all the abuse I have put them through...

[moparstuart]

yup fitting and lines are all plastic   

[r4daytona]

Thanks guys, getting a set from my local NAPA.  Only a few bucks more than Amazon and if there is a problem and they don't fit for some reason at least it's easy to return them  Thanks

[cdr]

Get the Monroe ones, the other brands if the air leaks out or run o psi it will ruin the shock seal

[Kern Dog]

You want an air shock recommendation?
Don't use them. Re-arch the springs if the rear is sagging. The shock crossmember isn't designed to support the car. 

[birdsandbees]

What everyone always says Greg, but I have "living" proof that you can run air shocks for 40 years and that the only OE part under my car for sheet metal is the upper shock mount was reused. EVERYTHING else was replaced.

[cdr]

I run monroe air shocks on my junker, hooks great at the track, rides great on the street

[70 sublime]

One of my former Chargers I had came with air shocks on it when I got it
I had to replace the shock cross member because the the hooks on the cross member that go over the frame rails to mount it to the car were all ripped off
There were cracks in the trunk floor right above the cross member I had to fix also

[Kern Dog]

You can see a non stock crossmember on Charlies car.

[birdsandbees]

Yep, but as I noted I had air shocks on mine since the '70's and that upper shock mount was the only OE part we put back on the car for floor metal. Nothing wrong with it after 100,000 + miles. Now if you pump the things up to 100 PSI and make the thing solid with the ass end 3 feet in the air..  

[ACUDANUT]

You want an air shock recommendation?
Don't use them. Re-arch the springs if the rear is sagging. The shock crossmember isn't designed to support the car. 

You can always add more metal back there. Cheap and easy fix.

[cdr]

You can see a non stock crossmember on Charlies car.

True, but that is a recent addition , had air shocks on it with the stock x member for 11k hard miles, it never cracked or broke, but I also only ran 45 psi in them, people like to JACK up the rear @ 120 psi & yes the will break the rear x member

[Kern Dog]

Yeah, I suppose with moderate pressures, the crossmember would be fine. 

[r4daytona]

I've been reading the advice that you guys have given and appreciate it.  I don't want to get into re arching the springs right now.  I just want to give a little lift because i have to be the car at an upcoming wedding to drive people.

Anyways, I got the NAPA shocks and the bolts off the convertible I got came off beautifully!  However, the bottom hole fits nicely on the lower bolt/stud but the new shock has a stupid steel bushing inserted in the rubber at the top and it won't fit on the top bolt!  I can't even press the steel piece out.  So now I have to research what air shock will have a 5/8 hole at both ends.  ugh

[Mopar Nut]

If you want Air Shocks, install the best, Gabriel HiJackers, sold at most speed shops, local auto parts stores, Summit Racing and Jegs. I just took a good used pair off my Charger that the PO installed 30 years ago, they would have been perfect to use temporarily. Maybe ask to see if someone has a good used pair they want to get rid of.  

Check for your size here.
https://gabriel.com/light-vehicle/products/hijackers/

[Mike DC]

  

I vote to lift it with the leaf springs.  Use either helper-leafs or longer shackles.   Keep the body weight on the spring mounts where it belongs.  And there is no air shifting from side to side.  

Yeah, those are ghetto fixes.  But air shocks aren't less ghetto, they are just less visible from 20 feet away.  


Besides . . . I've seen some pretty cool cars with shackle lifts.  It doesn't look bad in moderation IMO.   

[RiverRaider]

The times I have seen people have breakage was with the shocks pumped up to the point of little or no suspension travel.
On my 70 Charger I run 32 PSI with 15" 295's and 36 PSI with 15" N-50s. This keeps the N-50s from rubbing most of the time.  On my car that's the pressure that gets the rake I want.  If I am going on a rough road or a show field I will increase to 40 psi.  The shocks I use are not B-Body shocks they are for big Chrysler cars I believe the set on right now are Imperial.  The shocks are about 2" longer than B Body on the collapsed and extended lengths.   If you google air shock charts they show the installed, extended and collapsed lengths.  At times new old stock Chrysler/Imperial air shock are sometimes a lot less expensive than the B-Body ones.  I found that the use of the longer shocks reduced required PSI and gave me the softer ride at the height I want.  I have a on off valve on one line.  I fill both at the same time as the lines are on a tee, but I have a Clippard valve that I close on the divers side line.  This stops the air from flowing from shock to shock.

[TexasStroker]

For what it is worth I have had HiJackers for 20+ years...didn't have any fitment issues, but I'm not sure how that translates over to your 63.  Hopefully you can swap them out at NAPA...picking them over amazon has already paid off in that regard.

[ACUDANUT]

 I use a combo or shocks with springs !!