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Headlight Door - Electric Linear Actuator Conversion

Started by armor64, August 26, 2020, 02:01:10 PM

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armor64

Hi All, as i get closer to painting my 68, ive been going over wiring (AAW harness) and pieces i have to get the sub assemblies ready. I'm still a ways off the grill resto, but I know both my vac pods are missing, and replacements seem mighty pricey.  Looking into what was needed with Linear Actuators, there were a few resources for the install that were a great help, knowing a 2in actuator would do it, thank kind of thing. I ended up wanting to make it more streamlined than using a separate switch to control the doors, and the light switch for lights (so i have no extra or secondary controls to do).

Using a DPDT Relay (8 pins, comes with DIN block and mounting rail) i've found that you have have only 2 extra wires to the Actuators, basically a speaker wire for ease, and no other switches.

The Relays pins are
7/8 - relay control (ground and headlight switched power)
5/6 - out to linear actuators
1/4 - ground - put together with 8 for ease / 1 terminal
2/3 - +12v, ignition or battery (dealers choice)

because the relay switches from (5-1, and 6-2) to (5-3 and 6-4), when headlights are off, the motor is extended to close the lights. when you turn on the headlights, it energises the relay, swapping the current out, and opens the buckets. and since the 12v in is not on the switch, it auto retracts again when turned off.


I've (Hopefully) attached the terrible wiring diagram I made, and made the worlds worst youtube video showing it work as well, below:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8h0EOJTHyWY

i hope this helps anyone who is looking to replace the vacuum stuff, and doesn't want to spend a lot to do so.

ill eventually get this setup on the grill rebuild and test again, but at the rate i get stuff done, it will be a while....

thanks
Morgan



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