440 short block?

[b5blue]

Where/who to buy a proper reman 440 short block? Nothing fancy just solid reliability. 

[Challenger340]

Where/who to buy a proper reman 440 short block? Nothing fancy just solid reliability.  

The definition of "proper"..... qualified further by "Nothing fancy just solid reliability".... could go on forever ?

Can you elaborate more ?
Do you want a solid, properly rebuilt nothing fancy but reliable 7.8:1 Pistons Compression Ratio 440 with an RV Camshaft that can't get out of it's own way on a good day ?
or,
a solid, properly rebuilt nothing fancy but reliable 1968-1970 style 440 Magnum that is quite respectable power-wise even by today's standard's ?

[b5blue]

  Ironically YOU would know better than I.  Reusing my Sidewinder aluminum heads, CH4B intake, HP exhaust manifolds something like the Road Runner grind cam "proper" would be would be exactly what, the way you know best. Of course no RV low compression re ringed POS.
  My kids want to keep the Charger and the block is .060 over, forged crank is turned 10/20 from last build so what is in there is long in the tooth. Drive-a-ability and reliability are more important than horse power.   

[metallicareload99]

Where/who to buy a proper reman 440 short block? Nothing fancy just solid reliability. 

Lemme know when you find somehere! I think most of the responses are going to be "take it down to your local machine shop."  But if that was a viable option, I doubt you'd be posting here?

The selection for heads today is excellent. It makes no sense that short block availability is the opposite. Yeah, I realize shortblocks are a can of worms business wise.  Anything goes wrong and they might blame you and vise versa.  And while one size does not fit all, one size would probably fit most...

Where/who to buy a proper reman 440 short block? Nothing fancy just solid reliability.  

The definition of "proper"..... qualified further by "Nothing fancy just solid reliability".... could go on forever ?

Can you elaborate more ?
Do you want a solid, properly rebuilt nothing fancy but reliable 7.8:1 Pistons Compression Ratio 440 with an RV Camshaft that can't get out of it's own way on a good day ?
or,
a solid, properly rebuilt nothing fancy but reliable 1968-1970 style 440 Magnum that is quite respectable power-wise even by today's standard's ?

Option B, I think is the C for D for most of us out here.

Why would anyone want a 7.8 compression engine (except boost of course) with an RV cam? I say that as someone who has that very engine sitting on my engine stand right now.

The recipe has been the same since 1969 right?  Forged crank, forged 6 Pack flat tops at near zero deck. Yet it seems most have ended up as 7 to 1 engines with an old reground cam.

You'd know "proper" better than me of course, but I'd think a proper 440 magnum type short block should've sold well, yet I can't remember the last time I've seen anyone advertise something along those lines

[b5blue]

  In my case even the forged crank is overkill. Stock rods "hyper" pistons all good. The car is a driver, I had the 727 restored to nearly 70's stock with a MOPAR 145K convertor and run 3.23-8 3/4. I see short blocks and engines for Ford/GM/Jeep for sale everywhere?

[John_Kunkel]

Have you consulted any of your local engine machine shops? Some "unknown" shops are very knowledgeable and do good work.

[b5blue]

Many say they can but push deeper and things like hone plates and degree cam checks become "things never needed".

[c00nhunterjoe]

You may not "need" the forged crank and pistons, but if you are buying a rotating assembly for a street car, i would highly consider one of the small stroker kits from 440 source. It is VERY hard to beat the price. While you feel you may not need the stroker, the bigger cubes and crank throw means more low end torque. With the sidewinder heads and that roadrunner cam, it will be ignorant as hell, but idle stock. Take a look at russ (bsb67) car. He has a 500 inch motor that looks bone stock, idles smooth at something low like 800 rpm, has 3.23 gears and still runs in the 11s at the track and drives it everywhere.
    Just something to consider.

[Challenger340]

Speed Pro L23556 6 Pack Forged Pistons.... but up the fit to about .0025" Piston to Wall, the extra .003" to .004" ring end gap won't hurt anything
LY Rods resized with ARP Bolts
Get the assembly Balanced

Crower HDP271.... or Comp XE268H.... both work well.

Target .0025"-.003" Clearance on the Mains, and as close to .0025" on the Rods
Pin-Fit the Piston Pin Bores in the Pistons to .0008" (8 TEN-Thousandths)

That should be a very low-budget available from any competent shop if any still exist ?
Heck.... we'd love to blow a few of those out the door, just NO demand for them nor the time..... easy-peazey, and the stupid part is they make 500 ft/lbs and easy 425-450+ hp if done right ?

If you have any 'extra' in the budget ? then spring for the ICON 9953 Piston/Ring Kit.... just 1/4 Lb lighter than the L2355's(free pwr) and easier on the stock rods and they are built smaller than the HEAVY L2355 so don't need any extra safety clrc.

The last 'quickee' one of those we did...
ly rod 440 with E-streets OOTB.... using an XE268H and a Port Matched Holley Street Dom 300-14 (Single Plane for the Fuel Injection) still pulled 472hp and 500 ft/lbs.... very respectable and idled with just a very soft 'musclecar' exhaust note.

[b5blue]

This last build hypereutectic pistons were used. For a stop and go daily driver aren't forged slugs a bit slappy till fully warmed up?  (The car really is my daily.)

[Challenger340]

This last build hypereutectic pistons were used. For a stop and go daily driver aren't forged slugs a bit slappy till fully warmed up?   (The car really is my daily.)

NOPE !
you are thinking the 2618 and derivative Alloy Forgings of yesteryear... and still used in most RACE applications today. They require higher Piston to Wall clrc and some audible noise can be expected mostly when cold.
Versus,
Today's.... and why most lower priced "forged" Pistons these days are 4032 High Silicon Alloys cam & barrel skirt design.... basically the same HIGH Silicon "hypereutectic" thermally stable HYPEREUTECTIC's as the KB's etc.
the difference being
one is a CAST Hypereutectic Piston(KB's etc).... and one being a FORGED Hypereutectic 4032 cam & barrel design(L2355 and IC9953)

For example....
the recommended Piston to wall clrc on the L2355 Forged Piston.... is I believe based on final skirt sizing around the .0015" mark ? and which I had indicated earlier to open to around .0025" as OK.
wherein
most KB Hypereutectics will call for and be built around the recommended clrc of .0025" and up based on application ?

Long story short here....
because they are long skirt stock 440 Pistons..... NOT "short-skirt" Stroker Pistons.... even the ICON IC9953 4032 cam & barrel design forged Pistons can run dead nuts quiet @ .0035" when fit correctly by a competent shop

[b5blue]

Thanks so much for the info!