1971 Charger SE build thread

[CFMopar]

Hey everyone,

Figured I'd start a running thread to log the process of my build here. Finally getting started on it after many years. Long time user of this forum who disappeared over the last 10 years as the car sat.

Little background...

Bought the car when I was  about 18 years old and have had it for as long as I was old at the time. Life eventually took over and the car sat as I moved around, had kids and pursued my career.  Well now I'm set in a house I plan to stay in for a long time, so I figured its a good time to try and do this project properly vs the hack job I did as a 18-20 year old. With covid and all I can't think of a better way to spend the time 


Starting with a 1971 Charger SE, auto, with a 440 and 8 3/4 rear with 3.91's and a limited slip. Had it painted once and motor rebuilt way back. Obviously showing its age and all with the sitting. Car was originally a 318, bucket seat, bronze car so not to concerned with restoring it to its factory state. Looking to do a more restomod  /protouring type build with this.

Few photos before I get into getting the seats, centre counsel, and carpet out to get a better look at the floors.

[XH29N0G]

Thank you for starting this thread.  I like the car and it looks like it will be a great to watch the build come together.   

[CFMopar]

Got carpet, seats and centre counsel out to get a good look at the floors.

Rear section looks great. Front section, while not rotted out, looks like it was poorly repaired. You can see the patches welded in, along the transmission tunnel I have a few burn holes from poor welding, and brazing is used in several spots. So likely going to require some work on the front section floor pan.


Next time I'm going to cut the cage out and get rest of the interior out.

[Nacho-RT74]

Interesting stuff here. It seems you got some 74 donor, because seatbelts are 73 and lates and steering wheel is 74 Brougham. Same about the shifter being later or aftermarket style.

BTW, originally the shifter light harness/wire runs from its feed location ( around AC/Heater control area ) all along the dash up to passenger kick panel, when it gets an extension runing along the passenger floor pan up to the console. That's just if you care about correctnes:


Good luck with your project!!!

[ACUDANUT]

 Get it running safely, buff out the paint and have fun.

[CFMopar]

Interesting stuff here. It seems you got some 74 donor, because seatbelts are 73 and lates and steering wheel is 74 Brougham. Same about the shifter being later or aftermarket style.

BTW, originally the shifter light harness/wire runs from its feed location ( around AC/Heater control area ) all along the dash up to passenger kick panel, when it gets an extension runing along the passenger floor pan up to the console. That's just if you care about correctnes:


Good luck with your project!!!

Thanks for the insight. I'd be curious your thoughts on the bucket seats I have.  Likely explains a few questions I had with the seats and seat belts in front.

I'm going to make a few videos as I go along to and throw them up YouTube as I do the project. When I get the one with the interior gutting done maybe you can take a look and see if you recognize the seats and front seat belts?

[CFMopar]

Interesting stuff here. It seems you got some 74 donor, because seatbelts are 73 and lates and steering wheel is 74 Brougham. Same about the shifter being later or aftermarket style.

BTW, originally the shifter light harness/wire runs from its feed location ( around AC/Heater control area ) all along the dash up to passenger kick panel, when it gets an extension runing along the passenger floor pan up to the console. That's just if you care about correctnes:


Good luck with your project!!!

Yeah not to concerned bout originality. Looking to do a a restomod/protouring thing.

Think you can offer some insights on the seats and wiring with them since you seem to recognize the parts from 74 ish. It's at the end of the video.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=NRkbLvYsnU0

Thanks for the insight

[Nacho-RT74]

Weird buckets... Definitelly not 71/74 B bodies. 71/74 Hinges covers are nothing like those. And still with earliers 71s being a a bit diff from laters 71s and all 72/74, they are nothing like the originals 71/74 B bodies. Maybe 73/74 E bodies ?

The holes on floor for buckets are not stock... and it got missed plate reinforcements welded to floor, so... it was maybe a bench car and got a 73/74 E body buckets donor as mentioned ?

Lower rear "door" panels are 72 ( or cut to make them like 72s to accept the retractor ).

Rear seatbelts are PER WHAT I KNOW, 73/74 kind.

Front seatbelts ( lap and shoulder ) are 72/73... so I'd say making all the crossover ALL the seatbelts setup came from a 73...

Judging by the transmission tunel job, it was a floorshifter car, so this would match the idea about it was a bench car. This would make me thats the reason why the shifter light wire is not running like it should.

shifter handle... aftermarket

Seat wires are for weight sensors switches to make buzz the seatbelt warning buzzer and light, and of course interconected with seatbelts throught an specific harness which runs to underdash harness. On 74 the seatbelt sensors were into the female buckle but on 72/73 the seatbelt sensor was on male retractor. There are more diff concerning about this system on later models, but you don't need to know it now. The fact is the 71 seatbelt warning light ( no buzzer was equipped on them ) was a time delay controled system, no sensors anywhere or harnesses

[CFMopar]

Weird buckets... Definitelly not 71/74 B bodies. 71/74 Hinges covers are nothing like those. And still with earliers 71s being a a bit diff from laters 71s and all 72/74, they are nothing like the originals 71/74 B bodies. Maybe 73/74 E bodies ?

The holes on floor for buckets are not stock... and it got missed plate reinforcements welded to floor, so... it was maybe a bench car and got a 73/74 E body buckets donor as mentioned ?

Lower rear "door" panels are 72 ( or cut to make them like 72s to accept the retractor ).

Rear seatbelts are PER WHAT I KNOW, 73/74 kind.

Front seatbelts ( lap and shoulder ) are 72/73... so I'd say making all the crossover ALL the seatbelts setup came from a 73...

Judging by the transmission tunel job, it was a floorshifter car, so this would match the idea about it was a bench car. This would make me thats the reason why the shifter light wire is not running like it should.

shifter handle... aftermarket

Seat wires are for weight sensors switches to make buzz the seatbelt warning buzzer and light, and of course interconected with seatbelts throught an specific harness which runs to underdash harness. On 74 the seatbelt sensors were into the female buckle but on 72/73 the seatbelt sensor was on male retractor. There are more diff concerning about this system on later models, but you don't need to know it now. The fact is the 71 seatbelt warning light ( no buzzer was equipped on them ) was a time delay controled system, no sensors anywhere or harnesses

Thanks that was a ton of insight.

I know it was a bench car from the fender tag. You mentioned it being a floor shift car? Was that a typo? Because I think they only had standards with bench seats and floor shifters and I think the fender tag said 904a.

https://www.classicindustries.com/product/1971/dodge/charger/parts/mm1388b.html#mz-expanded-view-1037925231496 Looking at a replacement pan I see the braces you're talking about missing.

Given what you're saying about the seat belt sensor wiring I'm guessing the front seat belt at least on the passenger side is from a 74 as its got the female connector. Given the front seat has a male connector I guess its a 74 seat. Matter of fact, looking at a photo of 74 cuda seat hinges I think that confirms it... https://dantesparts.com/i-30499526-mopar-bucket-seat-hinge-covers-1972-1974-e-body-a-body.html

I'm thinking at this point its probably best to replace the front floor pan section.

[Nacho-RT74]

Oh! And by the way, hood is 73 and Front bumper is 73/74

Yes, sorry, typo ( well, not typo but a "lapsus mentis" )... I meant steering column shifter

No 74 seatbelt.. 74 seatbelt system is a totally diff monster, everywhere but the rear bench setup being the same than 73

This is a 74 seatbelt setup... sheetmetal is diff too for 74s at certain spots



71s use to get male belts on shoulder and lap, while getting two female buckets per side to buckle each of them, Althought some changes were made on the halfway of the 71 production on several spots ( console, seatbelts, hood, buckets, courtesy ign light ) taking to the 72 setup earlier.

72/73 gets one female buckle on each side while the shoulder is hooked to the male lap belt terminal as you noticed when removing


The electrical terminals related to seatbelts and seats began on 72, so the seat could be any year from that.

[Nacho-RT74]

About buckets floor pan reinforcements

Here A body, but similar on all



Shape can change on each body according with the floor pan contour and they are sold specifically for each floor pan ( also sold separatelly )

[Nacho-RT74]

If you wanna get deeper into the seatbelts setup here is a small reference thread I made not too long ago after many years of researches and separated post all along several threads and years.

https://wichargerguy.proboards.com/thread/22701/seatbelt-setup-71-74-production

I began on this maybe 12-15 years ago, because my car being assembled in Venezuela got a diff setup and I wanted to get the correct USA 74 parts. Make a mistake and pay international shipping makes try to save any mistake getting the correct parts.

You will be welcomed around there too.

[CFMopar]

That was the most informative thread I've seen on the interiors you've done your research that's forsure.


I think I remember when you started on this project back then. I've been a member on this board for a long time. Just been a ghost for ages and have changed names a few times lol.

Eitherway.... Few more days till my next days off and I'll work on cutting the roll cage out of the car and gutting rest of interior.

[CFMopar]

Well got rest of interior out including the headliner which makes one hell of a mess. Passenger rear seat belt nut was broken so couldn't remove that for now. I'll have to find a way to access it from other side. Probably will be easier when I get the car up on stands or something later. Slow and steady, figure it gives me time to stash cash for the inevitable slap that will be the paint and body work.

Next step will likely be pulling drive train I guess...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dl-MIRa4fdE&t=288s

[Nacho-RT74]

Passenger rear seat belt nut was broken so couldn't remove that for now. I'll have to find a way to access it from other side.

it won't have access... is hidden by the rocker panel, which is also overlaped by the quarter panel, sooo... no acces from anywhere except if cutting rocker panel ( and quarter panel )

[CFMopar]

Passenger rear seat belt nut was broken so couldn't remove that for now. I'll have to find a way to access it from other side.

it won't have access... is hidden by the rocker panel, which is also overlaped by the quarter panel, sooo... no acces from anywhere except if cutting rocker panel ( and quarter panel )

tomorrow Vic's problem lol

[chapel40]

If your not going show car I would just clean it up and protect it by painting or something to that effect. Install the mounting plates for the buckets and make sure everything is good on bottom for the buckets. Looks in a lot better shape than a lot of them I have seen. How is the trunk? Looks like your fuel tank is mounted in it.

[ACUDANUT]

 You , might have to drill it out. Use a torch and a "easy out" thread. Those are harden steel bolts.  It's gonna take a awhile, but you will prevail.

[CFMopar]

If your not going show car I would just clean it up and protect it by painting or something to that effect. Install the mounting plates for the buckets and make sure everything is good on bottom for the buckets. Looks in a lot better shape than a lot of them I have seen. How is the trunk? Looks like your fuel tank is mounted in it.

I moved the battery there. It's pretty solid. One small hole from some battery acid.

[CFMopar]

You , might have to drill it out. Use a torch and a "easy out" thread. Those are harden steel bolts.  It's gonna take a awhile, but you will prevail.

The not broke off from it's weld so it just wobbles so drilling isn't an option.

Think Id have to end cutting a small section of the metal on the interior, unscrew it, weld the nut back on and weld the metal back in place.....

[ACUDANUT]

Have you to tried to weld a nut to the treads ?

[Nacho-RT74]

You , might have to drill it out. Use a torch and a "easy out" thread. Those are harden steel bolts.  It's gonna take a awhile, but you will prevail.

The not broke off from it's weld so it just wobbles so drilling isn't an option.

Think Id have to end cutting a small section of the metal on the interior, unscrew it, weld the nut back on and weld the metal back in place.....

If you have room for an angle grinder, cut the head bolt off and began from there. Mostly sure the bolt and nut will fall off into the rocker. Let it there and patch a piece of plate with a welded nut from inside the cab. If the quarter and rocker panel are healthy, don't ruin it!

another option try a cut it from the wheel wells side and patch it there ? dunno. That could be easier since is just one panel section and could reach it from the side to weld it ?

[Nacho-RT74]

this is how it looks that area naked without the quarter panel. So once you cut the quarter panel skin will find ANOTHER panel, which it gets a gap with quarter skin to allow water drains. The hump there is the are where the nut is... take your conclusions.

I think, it could be doable from the wheel well side, which as mentioned only gets one panel.. the outer wheel well itself. Easier to patch, seal and hide with undercoating

[CFMopar]

I'm going to skip over if for now and figure it out later. Got plenty of other stuff to do.

Was thinking I should pull the motor with transmission because getting trans out from underneath will be a pita on the garage floor.

Never pulled a motor with transmission before. Thoughts?

[ACUDANUT]

Very easy. Tilt the motor with transmission up and away you go.  2 people works best. 

[CFMopar]

Very easy. Tilt the motor with transmission up and away you go.  2 people works best.  

Since I've never done a transmission before, for driveshaft removal, can I just unbolt the 4 bolts holding it to the flange on the rear diff. Then I assume I can just slide it out from the transmission extension housing?

After that I assume its removing the transmission cross member supporting it so it can come out attached to the motor?

This is basicly my check list... Am I forgetting anything? Haven't done this in a looooooooong time!

Drain Transmission
Remove Drive shaft
Remove  Transmission cross member
Disconnect exhaust
Unbolt motor mounts
Remove Hood
Drain and remove rad and disconnect power steering
Remove Fan
Disconnect fuel and remove carb
Mark all wiring
Lift away


Do I have to remove alternator and power steering pump or is it alright to just leave them on?

[70 sublime]

Um un hook gear shifter
un hook speedometer cable
un hook NSS
un hook gas pedal
If it is an automatic un hook transmission lines

Just un bolt power steering pump and leave it in the car

[CFMopar]

Might be a stupid question but wanted to make sure. Curious if it's ok to completely remove the rear mount and cross member while it's bolted to the motor or do I need to support it until I'm lifting them both out ?

Figured it should be fine but wanted to make sure since I'm prepping everything today and lifting it out tomorrow.

Also was wondering, does anyone know what size bolts are used to bolt my leveler to the heads?  And does it matter that I have aluminum heads on? Just curious with weight and aluminum threads.

[CFMopar]

Welp figured it out and got it out without to many issues. Hardest part was running to Lowe's for bolts for my engine stand. Of course my phone died as I was filming the motor and trans coming out for my YouTube channel. But all in all a good day.

Great Success 👍

[RallyeMike]

Now you've gone and done it 

Have fun and good luck. I'll be watching.

[ACUDANUT]

 
Having fun I see. I would have pulled the engine and transmission out together   .

[CFMopar]

I did. That was after separating it on the ground. Should've done the photo with the transmission lol

[CFMopar]

Was hoping a few of you wouldn't mind watching this "How To" video I made on the process to help others.

I haven't finished editing it yet but I got all the steps and stuff in it. Anything I missed, or should change? If I could get some input I'd appreciate it.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/e53ubcn23g6d19d/episode4.mp4?dl=0

[CFMopar]

Two questions.

Started disassembly of the front body panels and stuff.

Removed valance, chin spoiler and was working on front fender. I got all the bolts on the top, wheel well and where it joins the valance and stuff. But she doesn't seem to want to come off.

I was wondering if the headlight brackets are all part of the fender? Anyone know?

Also in the picture. The areas in the red circle. Just wondering what that square spot was for on the left and if that hole on the right was from factory, and what purpose it served? Seems like a pretty big hole for a brake line to run through.

[70 sublime]

Red circles
To get at the bolts on the upper control arm to set front end alignment
Front circle is a metal plate
Back circle is a rubber flap

[CFMopar]

Merry Christmas all.

Got a few mins of downtime at what will hopefully be a quiet day at work on Christmas so figured I'd post a progress update.

Been slowly taking apart front end. Got both fenders, doors, and bumper off now.

Bit more to disassemble and then maybe build a tip over jig so I can try and save a bit of money on body work

[ACUDANUT]

Great work. I would have unbolted the the frame connections to the bumpers. Much easier way to take the whole assembly off together. .

[CFMopar]

Yeah hindsight on that one was 20/20 lol

[CFMopar]

So I got on this video some of the major issues I've found so far.

Nothing that looks like it can't be saved. But I'm guessing the carr was hit near drivers door at some point in it's life.


https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=UIh-zk88i8c&t=29s

[70 sublime]

So I got on this video some of the major issues I've found so far.

Nothing that looks like it can't be saved. But I'm guessing the carr was hit near drivers door at some point in it's life.


https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=UIh-zk88i8c&t=29s

My buddy did his 72 Charger at my place and had to fix all the same stuff
That is just where the Canadian cars rot out

[CFMopar]

Maybe, but nothing on passenger side.

[Nacho-RT74]

Wiper arms are 74

What an horrible patch jobs!

Interesting Radio antenna location and job.

[CFMopar]

Wiper arms are 74

What an horrible patch jobs!

Interesting Radio antenna location and job.

Lol It definitely seems like its a 74 donor car after everything we've found doesn't it?

The antenna relocation I think is called Frenching. It's the one thing that looks like it was done right.

[CFMopar]

So didn't plan to get much done today give it was the day after new years eve.

I wanted to just get the latch assembly off and the bumper brackets.

Well what seems to be an ongoing trend is nut welds braking off makes a simple job into a difficult one.

I'm assuming the nuts are welded on the inside of the frame rails? Cause I don't see how to reach it otherwise. Well the nut on the front bolt drivers side came lose so it just spins. (left bolt photo 1) Any idea how to tackle that?

I'm assuming the previous owner had an issue with that before on the passenger side because it looks like a threaded rod was put right through with a nut and a washer. (Photos 3 & 4)

[CFMopar]

So dropped the gas tank and likely found out why I was having hard start issues.

Anyone here use POR15 tank sealer? Well mine failed in epic fashion. Glad I had an inline filter!

Spoke to POR about it. I'm sure that I followed application instructions for applying it to a new gas tank. They of course said its likely an error in process. But also said the sump may of had a role in it failing.

I think I'm going to eventually cut the thank open and get a good look inside.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=boEXgeUu48w

[CFMopar]

Anyone remove a dash in a 71 before? Does windshield need to be out to pull whole dash frame and all?

[JB400]

Windshield does need to come out first, before the dash can be removed.  There are a line of screws along the windshield, and a couple bolts on each side of a pillar visible under the dash.

[Nacho-RT74]

Windshield does need to come out first, before the dash can be removed.  There are a line of screws along the windshield, and a couple bolts on each side of a pillar visible under the dash.

Not on 3rd gens. Dash can come out with windshield in place.

Need to remove pillar panels, kick panels, and speaker grill. Removing the speaker grill will find out 4 more bolts needing to be removed. Two bolts on kick panel area which need to be loosen but not removed, to tilt out the dash.

Of course also drop the column, or even better remove it completelly. I can get you a step by step procedure on this ( it should be already posted somewhere as I already posted the procedure ), but on a quick overview is basically that.

[CFMopar]

Windshield does need to come out first, before the dash can be removed.  There are a line of screws along the windshield, and a couple bolts on each side of a pillar visible under the dash.

Not on 3rd gens. Dash can come out with windshield in place.

Need to remove pillar panels, kick panels, and speaker grill. Removing the speaker grill will find out 4 more bolts needing to be removed. Two bolts on kick panel area which need to be loosen but not removed, to tilt out the dash.

Of course also drop the column, or even better remove it completelly. I can get you a step by step procedure on this ( it should be already posted somewhere as I already posted the procedure ), but on a quick overview is basically that.

Please if u have it. Tomorrow's project maybe.

[ACUDANUT]

 I have done this at least a dozen times.  You will need 1/4 drive sockets and a 12 inch extension.  Ain't fun, but doable. 2 people are needed.

[Nacho-RT74]

I have been able to do it just by myself, but with column completelly removed along with the column bracket studs for clearence, still with console and buckets in place, but of course I put some cardboard and cushion around to don't damage the seats and console to hold the assembly for instants. That's because usually I never get help from anybody around.

thread:
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php?topic=11448.0

there are couple more around but saying pretty much the same.

[Nacho-RT74]

sure to remove the kick panels and A pillar panels you will need to remove also sill moldings and headliner moldings. But I think you have those already out

[CFMopar]

My interior is completely out now so no obstructions

[Nacho-RT74]

yes I know... you won't have any problem to make it by yourself with all clear around, but of course two guys better

once everything is loosen/unbolted you will be able to pull up just a bit to "disengage" from top of firewall provisions ( where is bolted on top close to dash vents ) and tilt down the complete dash being the weight hold yet by the 2 screws on kick areas... as mentioned those will remain installed but loosen

[CFMopar]

So its been a while since I posted but  that doesn't mean things aren't moving along. They were... Just slowly Between the car, work, 3 kids, and trying to get stuff on the utube channel to pay for the car, it was a juggling act to say the least.

I got just about everything off the car and its about ready for blasting. All that I have to do is the vapor separator and the glass. I've been waiting for a warmer day to attempt the glass in hopes I don't brake it.

Thursday will likely be that day. Fingers crossed. The shop I'm going to use to prime it and blast it suggested leaving the suspension on and that they will drop it themselves. So that saves me a bit of work. So hopefully I get it back mid to end of April primed and then I can see the full extent of metal work required.

I've encountered some real redneck repair work done by previous owner. Looking back, as a 18-19 year old I knew nothing about cars and probably would've skipped this car for something better. But here I am now. So just trying to keep slow progress.

[73chgrSE]

Great post. Very cool to see the teardown. I feel like my 73 may have been involved in an accident back in the mid 70's to early 80's before I bought it in 89. I know it has a replacement hood but I cant find any bondo anywhere though.

[CFMopar]

So I finally got a day nice enough to attempt the front and rear windshields!

I was a little nervous. With 50 year old glass I figured I'd break one if not both.

But I was able to get both out without incident. Front came out easy, I was able to do it pretty much myself. Rear I needed someone inside the car but we got it.  There was so much glue/sealer on the rear that it made it more difficult. Broke the wire several times but it came.

It was nice to get a warm day and work on the car in the driveway vs the cold garage. Found a bit more rust but the channels look good.

Got the bumper bracket off where the nut broke free on inside of frame rail, vapor canister,  door channel chrome and last bits of odds and ends today.

All I got left before I take it to get blasted is the 1/4 rear windows I think.  Anyone got tips on those?

[CFMopar]

Well got the car mostly blasted. Big step forward... Overall...... I'm pleasantly surprised I have to admit.  Discovered both 1/4s were worked on at some point.  But they look like they're done well. Even the cowl doesn't look as bad as I thought.  The sides of the firewall is where most the poor repairs were done. Bottom gets done today. And then it's primer and home. Lots of brazing as you can see.

I'm going to get a video up of the process on the youtube channel shortly.

So I'm looking at what I see here, maybe a floor pan, and drivers side frame rail.  After that though I might be ok.

[CFMopar]

Well got around to editing the video on the media blasting process if anyone is interest.

Hopefully I get this car back in a few days, weather has been shit delaying it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vXhD5G8NK-g

[CFMopar]

So long delay getting it back from guy who was supposed to prime it. Dicked me around a bit and wasted a ton of time.

Either way. Got it back. So now the hard stuff starts. I made the detailed list of whats needed so now its time to start the hard stuff.  New trunk floor otw and a few other pieces.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KQ0W2PC-mxI&lc=UgyGcY1jY_O3az300bJ4AaABAg

[CDN72SE]

Looking good, must be nice to see the metal and what you have to work with.

[CFMopar]

So for an update,

Basically at a stand still now. Just about everything is on backorder with AMD and can't get much When I ordered trunk pan and extension from Eastwood the extension were out of stock and the trunk was in. But they didn't ship anything. Now the Extension are in stock and the pan is out

I at least got them to ship the extension now. So hopefully the pan will be sooner than later. But AMD seems to think Oct

[CFMopar]

Hey everyone,

I know its been quiet a while. Been slowly grabbing parts. Things are really hard to come by these days unless you have an unlimited budget. Which I do not. But I'm almost there.

Scored a new used cowl that is virtually rust free https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qe9Eewj2OoY So that's good.

Have a new AMD trunk pan, extensions, and several inner quarter panel reinforcement pieces which have been recently discontinued by AMD. If anyone has those lying around and wants to unload them let me know, or I'll just have to repair the ones I have that I haven't been able to find. Friend of mine in NJ has the door pillers and rear tail cross member for me. So I'll be going down to grab those in January likely. Just going to order some inner wheel wells and that's it.

But I want to show you guys is the rear frame rails I just secured and picked up the other day. Got them from Mopar Mark on the for b bodies forum. Should clean up real nice!

What I wanted to get was peoples opinion on whether I should blast and epoxy prime these rails or get them dipped and epoxy primed? I have a small blaster and my compressor will be wired in soon so I can do that at home. But I also have a place 10 min from me that dips as well. What do you guys think?

[CFMopar]

So update!

Sorry its been a while. Hit a lull but up and running again. Behind on posting updates and on my youtube channel.

Working with 68 Charger Freak. It's nice to have someone who knows what they're doing.

Since the last post

• Built a Jig
• Sent those rails out to get blasted and primed
• Removed rear frame rails
• Dropped the front end (the drivers rail wasn't even attached to the floor it was so bad on that side)
• Braced it up Started getting the floor pan out

Now people are mostly caught up lol

[CFMopar]

Nacho,

do you know if this inner fender brace is the same as on a Ebody?

[Nacho-RT74]

I was checked this before but didn't notice you called me LOL... sorry, I have no idea!

MAYBE moparmarks will know. He use to part out 70-74 B/E bodies and will know way better than me these kind of details

[ACUDANUT]

It is. !!

[CFMopar]

Bit behind posting updates. Got floors, rails out, Rockers cleaned up and new cross member and floor supports in. Test fit the floor pan. Seems like the goodmark piece isn't bad at all. Have a video review on it coming soon.

Started a bit of work on the firewall. Just ordered new Dynacorn front frame rails and rad supports.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QYssyZJn-OA&t=149s

[ACUDANUT]

Dang, that is one expensive rebuild. My hat is off to you.

[CFMopar]

Dang, that is one expensive rebuild. My hat is off to you.

Thanks man.

If I knew before, I probably would've tried to find a good shell in the USA and bring it up.  But I'm knee deep now.  So I'll just take my time.


Just got the inner cowl panels done. 

1971 Dodge Charger Build - Episode 19 More Rust Repair / Inner Cowl  Repair
https://youtu.be/SUg7Cq728rg

[CFMopar]

Long time coming but got some updates..

Firewall, cowl and in! It's starting to look like a car again....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TLSbJ4ZPmZM&t=3s

Floor is mostly in. Just got to do some editing on that one.

[CFMopar]

Got a floor pan now! Fit well after all said and done. Also welded the firewall to floor seam solid.


https://youtu.be/swRfoB2RboI

[CFMopar]

Got my used rear seat pan and AMD footwells installed. Few issues with the footwells, but a full floor now! Another big step done!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eFpbKO4rVYo&t

[AKcharger]

That is THE most extensive 3rd Gen resto I've ever seen...keep up the good work!

[CFMopar]

That is THE most extensive 3rd Gen resto I've ever seen...keep up the good work!

Thanks man! Probably the longest also lol... But I figured do it once and do it right....

[CFMopar]

Got the last bit of sheet metal I need! Took over a year for it to get back in stock. 


https://youtu.be/_qKjOmOyhlk

[CFMopar]

Project update... Things are moving along...  Front end is mostly done!

https://youtu.be/UgJPIKBwjec?si=wOWlnvggUZwDbhwF

I'm also on Rumble now if people use that platform, subscriptions would be great.

https://rumble.com/v42z3ik-1971-dodge-charger-build-episode-24-welding-up-the-front-end.html