News:

It appears that the upgrade forces a login and many, many of you have forgotten your passwords and didn't set up any reminders. Contact me directly through helpmelogin@dodgecharger.com and I'll help sort it out.

Main Menu

Hey experts can you (update) follow my paint plan so I don't mess up

Started by AKcharger, October 16, 2020, 02:57:58 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

AmadeusCharger500

Looking great. It took me 8 hours straight on paint day, including all the little stuff, cleaning etc. Also, masking is sooo tedious, I did before paint day. Especially around the wheels. I walked the complete car with empty gun just practicing perpendicular angle of gun tip, awkward on roof, I had to use a step stool. Thats all I can think of right now. Best of luck!

AKcharger

Well it was a disaster. After all that work and prep a 5 year old could have done a better job. I don't understand what went wrong temp and humidity was good all the input conditions were fine but I got runs everywhere! and when I tried to not overlap as much to avoid runs I got tiger stripes. well I'm noteven going in the gargae for a day or so and thinkof how I can recover :P

No, I'm not posting pictures...it's that bad!

1970Moparmann

Sorry to hear this!   You're doing the correct thing and wait a day or so to figure it out!  Are you using a large enough compressor?
My name is Mike and I'm a Moparholic!

Canadian1968

Tiger stripes ?  You were getting the runs in the base then ?

Did you switch needles in your gun.? You had mentioned that in another post ?

As long as your air pressure was right and your gun was set right. It may have been a little to much adrenaline!

So do you just have the base down or is it cleared ?



hemi-hampton


AmadeusCharger500

I have painted 3 cars, 2000, 2010 and one I did most recent.. My first 2 I had tiger stripes. I never figured out why until the most recent car and the use of you tube videos on how to set up the gun. I used fan patten wide open and overlap 50 percent. Keeping the tip 10 to 12 inches from the surface never stop the gun.

I know this is so frustrating but walking away was the best thing you could have done.

Check in tomorrow for better advice than mine but here is my first thought.
If you laid down the clear already I believe  it's a fairly straightforward fix. 600 and then color and clear again.

AKcharger

- 1970 Yup 30 gal, I've painted with it before keeps 35-40 lbs at the gun
- Canadian -- No, I was laying it on with a 75% overlap and then "oh my a run?" so I went to abot a 50% over lap to avoid the build up and then stripes resulted
                -- Diffrent gun Warwik 881H 1.4
                -- No, I put down 1 coat of HORRIBLE base coat and called it quits I'll give it a day or so and see if I can sand it and salvage it
- HH I would GLADLY pay you for your time!
- Amadeus - Yeah, I've painted too...metallics...with the same gun! I don't understand? Nope just shot on one crappy base coat and quit

Here's what I got see if anyone sees anything:
- Temp 78° RH 64% Temp at car surface 88°
- Shopline Deep B/O poly 1:1 slow reducer
- Gun Warwick 881H 1.4 40psi at gun fan set as wide as possible 8-10 inches distance from surface  NOTE: I discovered after a while pint dripping fron the nozzle, like the needle wasn't seating??
- Paint would flow on, look Ok then run about 10 seconds later run city.
- I'm hoping I can just take it back to 400 grit, figure out what happened and try again!

Photo for your amusement P.S. the sealer went on with no problems! at all  :-)

AmadeusCharger500

If that's the first coat I would just keep going. I could be wrong but why not try one small section tomorrow and see if you can get complete coverage. I think some base paint will still adhere within 24 hours. Sand the runs down and continue on. Seriously I'm not that knowledgeable but my first coat of base looked pretty scary also.

AKcharger


Canadian1968

what I see quick before I head off to work.

That gun is not setup right . It look like it was fluttering and the spray pattern is off .

Do not worry about "tiger stripes " on first coat especially with a low hiding colour like this. Your going to see your first couple of passes until you start to get coverage .  Sorry I missed if you said you changed needle. You said it was dripping like the needle wasn't seating which is totally possible. Either you have a piece of crap stuck in there or you switched needles and it is not seating properly to the fluid tip.  Use the gun as it came.  The tip of the needle is the only thing that matters ( referring to your other thread) The shape of the taper will be designed to fit the fluid tip.

40 PSI is crazy high for HVLP. That juse doesn't seem right thr 2 I use regular are sprayed at 22 psi and 19 psi. Are you using inline regulator just before the gun ? I see the gun it self has an in handle regulator .  Open that up all the way then regulate with your inline gauge. I would do some test spray on some card board or paper to get everything dialed in before going at the car again .

AKcharger

OK I talked myself off the ledge a bit and wetsanded the runs out, I think I can fix it it will just take a LOT more paint than expected.  I can only guess I was too slow and too close so I'm going to try just the fenders and hood in the coming days and see how it goes...I'll do it in 'bite sized chunks" and "mist on the base" instead of trying to lay it down with a wet edge and plan on 5 or 6 coats

- Canadian -- The product sheet says to use that pressure at the gun (not cap) and yes do run it through a regulator on the gun
                 -- The splotchyness is me getting frustrated and trying to "fill in the light spots" I'm hoping with enough coats I can make it solid agin
                 -- I had the needle (trigger) adjusted all the way out for full flow, if I run it in a few turns the leak stops
                 -- copy on test sprays!  :2thumbs:

hemi-hampton

Shopline being cheap paint it does not cover very good or fast usually being more transparent. A mistake alot of people do is trying to get coverage on first coat. put it on lighter & not try to cover but more importantly try getting it even. lots of lighter even coats better then a couple of heavy coats. it's hard to run base coat but not a single stage. I wouldn't advise doing any panel painting on a metallic if trying to keep even but instead walk the whole side, this will keep it much more even then trying to do a panel at a time where overlap at the panel ends will be darker. but once you got full entire coverage that will be much less of a concern.  :Twocents:  Just my 2 cents, I'm sure other opinions will vary. Good Luck, Leon.

hemi-hampton

For example, Here's one coat on the Roadrunner, Which I believe was also shopline base. LEON.

AKcharger

Thanks for that HH. I think I expected too much from the 1st coat and appreciate the photo. perhaps all isn't lost!

AmadeusCharger500

This was my mantra as I walked the car. "1st coat is a bond coat". its really serving as a sticky surface for the 2nd and 3rd to adhere. 1st coat was nerve racking for me. 3rd and 4th coat was fun.
I used 4 coats of base when I did my trunk and hood. 4th coat allowed me to relax and just focus on even coverage, as I was just re learning how to paint. 3 coats for the remainder. (Yes I did paint in 2 stages).

PlainfieldCharger

Quote from: hemi-hampton on November 05, 2020, 09:22:24 PM
For example, Here's one coat on the Roadrunner, Which I believe was also shopline base. LEON.
Thanks very much for this picture. The timing is awesome, I am spraying the exterior of my car this weekend using Shopline base (2135) K5 and really noticed it needed 4 coats in the trunk and engine area and even though my first coat was heavier than this picture I thought I should be putting even more down per coat as web search seems to point to 3 coats of base, first timer here...so I will continue on in the same manner as I did feel the paint was more translucent(weaker) than what 3 coats of base could produce.

AKcharger

 I did both sides again, still have significant color mismatches but I think its salvageable with another round of wet sanding and another gallon of base coat  :yesnod:

Thinking through this, I think the cause is I watched some you tube videos on painting to get back up to speed. The guy stressed a "wet edge" on the paint, 75% overlap and and shooting from 8-10 inches. I did exactly as he did at the same speed and got those horrible runs. maybe he uses a diffrent paint system? anyway I feel better and noted medium reducer seemed to help as well. I'll to the hood and trunk next, let it sit a day then wet sand and Hopefully make final coats.

Amadeus - Thanks yup that worked out better for me...liked the mantra lol!
Plainfield  - glad you can avoid my mistakes.  I thought 1 gallon of paint would be plenty...well maybe if you know what your doing lol...but for me i'm off to buy my second gallon. Your K5 too? Cool!

AmadeusCharger500

Is that 2 coats now? 3rd coat should allow you to even everything out, overlap and consistent speed. One thing I learned this time out is never do the same pass twice even if you think something got messed up, fix it in the next coat.
I have 2 base color inconsistencies on my job and I know exactly why. I stumbled and paused the gun. It was the  3rd coat and I tried to fix both with a spot spray.  Knew I could not do another full coat because I was running out of paint. So it's there and I'll live with it.

That's a really great color btw!

PlainfieldCharger

Quote from: AKcharger on November 06, 2020, 10:55:33 AM
I did both sides again, still have significant color mismatches but I think its salvageable with another round of wet sanding and another gallon of base coat  :yesnod:

Thinking through this, I think the cause is I watched some you tube videos on painting to get back up to speed. The guy stressed a "wet edge" on the paint, 75% overlap and and shooting from 8-10 inches. I did exactly as he did at the same speed and got those horrible runs. maybe he uses a diffrent paint system? anyway I feel better and noted medium reducer seemed to help as well. I'll to the hood and trunk next, let it sit a day then wet sand and Hopefully make final coats.

Amadeus - Thanks yup that worked out better for me...liked the mantra lol!
Plainfield  - glad you can avoid my mistakes.  I thought 1 gallon of paint would be plenty...well maybe if you know what your doing lol...but for me i'm off to buy my second gallon. Your K5 too? Cool!
I got 2 gallons so I can have some left over...

Canadian1968

Looking better .  The colour your using is definitely adding to your challenges . Poor coverage can be frustrating. 
As for your gun setup , that would explain the gun leaking. A good way to start your adjustment is to back off the needle adjustment all the way, pull the trigger all the way, then start to turn the adjustment in until you feel pressure on the trigger . Then 2 turns in and go from there .

I did see that's what they recommend. But wow that is high . Again for HVLP.

Painting is not something you get the hang of the first time that's for sure .  What works for one person  doesn't always work for the next. Which is why you tube videos can be dangerous sometimes !

As already suggested do not panel paint. Keep it as even as possible.

AKcharger

I hit the trunk and hood again tonight. I dropped the paint on from like 30,000 feet so that cured the runs lol. Looking directly at panels up close they look great but see patterns in direct sunlight. I'm hoping some more coats APPLIED PROPERLY will fix that problem??

Amadeus - That's about 4-5 coats AFTER the wet sanding
Plainfield  - Smart! May I suggest you "Mist" on the 1st few coats  very lightly. had I done that I'd be finshed by now! I'd say if you do it right 5-7 coats minimum. Hey how much did you pay for a gallon of K5 shopline? I paid $200 a gallon here in Fl
Canadian -- I did last '70 in PPG Omni single stage and it covered very well, shot some clear over it still looks great! This stuff is like water with food coloring, hope enough coats gets it right
             -- Yup gun is working like a champ!
             -- Yeah glad I didn't do just a panel!  I think I have it down now only problem is getting the bottom of the fenderrs and 1/4 with in line regulator and water seperator even on jact stands it's difficult

At least I feel better!

AmadeusCharger500

I guess you could tilt the air horn (think that's the name) for down low, let's you tilt the gun. But Do Not forget to re set it!

hemi-hampton

One more advise, Here's a mistake I've seen many people make, even more experianced painters & the problem is even worse if painting in Garage with less or poor lighting. And that problem is many people will add coats until they gradually see the uneveness & or blotchyness slowly disappear & then it looks totally covered & even & they then Clear it & call it done because it looks like it's done. or at least it looked covered & done in the Garage, until they wheel it out of the Garage into the bright sunlight & now the uneven blotchyness sticks out like a sore thumb. And you go WHOOAAA, What happened. SO, After it just looks like you got it covered, put another coat or 2 (preferably 2) on it to make sure. I've seen people not seal a car run into this type of problem more often. Hope this Helps :scratchchin: :shruggy: LEON.

AKcharger

Leon, good tip...and I'll take 'em all!

I'm spraying in the driveway (have to clean it before wifes seems the mess!) so I have sunlight and it shows EVERYTHING! OK but you can see the stripes and patterns. But just like you said,  when I pull it in the garage I think wow...it's ready for clear!

yup glad now that I sealed!

hemi-hampton

a little trick to help get rid of zebra stripes or tiger stripes is spay both horizonal & vertical & mist the last 2 coats on lighter with more distance. Hope that helps :Twocents: LEON.

p.s. some colors will blotch if first coat of clear is put on to soon & to heavy, PPG's DBU reactive reducer base was famous for that in the old days.