Where to buy Replacement for Vacuum Booster, Reservoir, Distribution Block

[aifilaw]

1972 Dodge Charger, Factory discs in the front and drums in the rear

So the distribution block has been alerting me with the light on the dash, the reservoir has been leaking for 20 years, The pedal has been squishy for 20 years.... I think it's time I just replaced them all.
I don't need to do a special conversion, The drums in the back and the discs in the front that were factory original are just fine.

I just want to purchase and replace the Booster, the Reservoir, and the Distribution block with like-new equipment, and not have to do any fancy conversions, or bend and flare new fittings on brake lines.

Where do I look for that and get what I want the first time, figured I'd ask here after burning an hour searching and getting virtually nowhere.

I think I found reservoirs for pretty cheap:  $50
https://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/1972/dodge/charger/brake/brake_master_cylinder.html

I think I found the same distribution block, but it's hard to tell: $78
https://www.ebay.com/itm/70-72-Mopar-E-B-body-Disc-Drum-Brake-Distribution-Brass-Block-Proportion-Valve/190820454913?_trkparms=aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20200818142525%26meid%3D048f290621184d0ca69d76d855eec618%26pid%3D101195%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D12%26mehot%3Dpf%26sd%3D190820454867%26itm%3D190820454913%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675%26algv%3DSimplAMLv5PairwiseWebWithDarwoV3BBEV2b%26brand%3DInline+Tube&_trksid=p2047675.c101195.m1851


I found this combo kit for $220, that seems to be everything I need but the distribution block, but no reviews and of course the picture looks nothing like the existing one in my car.

https://www.classicindustries.com/product/1972/dodge/charger/parts/mm3066.html


And I found a ton of these "convert your manual brakes to power brakes" things that are cheap, but it looks like all the brake lines are in the wrong spot?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-1962-74-Mopar-Dodge-A-B-E-Body-8-Dual-Power-Brake-Booster-Conversion-Kit/312779973776?fits=Year%3A1965%7CMake%3ADodge%7CModel%3ADart

[70 sublime]

What do you think is wrong with the distribution block ?
Is it leaking ?

If it is making the brake light come on in the dash I would think it is just doing it's job of telling you more fluid if flowing to one set of wheels than it thinks it should be

[birdsandbees]

Exactly... get those back brake shoes out tight against the drum and bled and I bet that light stops coming on...

[aifilaw]

There's been a fast leak of brake fluid for a long time, but a while back, yes it did start lighting up the brake light on the dash. At this point rather than try to troubleshoot, I'd rather spend a couple hundred dollars and just replace the components, if I can identify the correct parts to buy and places to get them from.

[aifilaw]

Exactly... get those back brake shoes out tight against the drum and bled and I bet that light stops coming on...

Yeah, if it were just an adjustment issue, I'd be happy, but the brakes haven't worked effectively or correctly in many years, old, rusted, leaking. I got to start there.

[Mopar Nut]

The new distribution blocks are a hit and miss. You can rebuild them for around $11 or talk to Cass at Dr. Diff. he sells new blocks.


Booster Steve (F/K/A Booster Dewey) can rebuild your booster.

[Nacho-RT74]

Do you have the Kelsey Hayes cast iron dist block?

Rebuilt kits are available

https://www.musclecarresearch.com

In my own experience, lot of ppl ( including mechs ) change dozen of times master cyilinders, caps or rebuilt them ( pistons kit ) because they begin to leak at the cap and the brake light on cluster turns on. What mechs in Vzla has been making to cheat the owners FOR YEARS is drill the master cylinder bowls wall and disconect the switch at block. This makes to save at least for leak and a brakes failure althought never gets the propper brake function

The real deal was the small bowl began to get overflown while the big bowl was getting empty because the block switch piston begin to get seals failed. This made the big bowl which handles the front brakes and apply more pressure, goes throught this section on block and overflows the small blow.

Don't ask how I know it LOL

[aifilaw]

The new distribution blocks are a hit and miss. You can rebuild them for around $11 or talk to Cass at Dr. Diff. he sells new blocks.


Booster Steve (F/K/A Booster Dewey) can rebuild your booster.

I found a link for the rebuilding the booster:
http://boosterdeweyexchange.com

But the price is even higher than a new one. The question is which new one to get if that's the case?

[aifilaw]

Do you have the Kelsey Hayes cast iron dist block?

Rebuilt kits are available

https://www.musclecarresearch.com

I'll take a few pictures tonight, that might help.

[Nacho-RT74]

Sorry, I edited my comment while you quoted

And this is a diagram where the O rings for the differential piston are labeled




Those the ones which fails, making the brake fluid to go throught the system

And it should be the one you car got!

[Nacho-RT74]

The master cylinder is still available at part shops BTW.

[aifilaw]

Do you have the Kelsey Hayes cast iron dist block?

Rebuilt kits are available

https://www.musclecarresearch.com

In my own experience, lot of ppl ( including mechs ) change dozen of times master cyilinders, caps or rebuilt them ( pistons kit ) because they begin to leak at the cap and the brake light on cluster turns on. What mechs in Vzla has been making to cheat the owners FOR YEARS is drill the master cylinder bowls wall and disconect the switch at block. This makes to save at least for leak and a brakes failure althought never gets the propper brake function

The real deal was the small bowl began to get overflown while the big bowl was getting empty because the block switch piston begin to get seals failed. This made the big bowl which handles the front brakes and apply more pressure, goes throught this section on block and overflows the small blow.

Don't ask how I know it LOL

That's very interesting. The reservoir is rusted, gasket trashed, etc. It's always been leaking, but I have to add about 2 tablespoons every time I drive (use brakes).

On mine it's a little backwards, the front reservoir empties three times as fast as the back (large).
Actual braking the car pulls to the right when applying and left when releasing on the fronts, rears are functioning somewhat normally. I'm sure there's lots and lots of issues going on here that I could troubleshoot on a normal working system, but with everything as old as it is, and somewhat cheaply replaceable (I consider under $500 for a new vacuum master, reservoir, and distribution block cheap), I may as well start there, connect, bleed, and then go from there if there are more issues. Since I'm dealing with a vacuum cylinder that is likely leaking from multiple locations, a reservoir that needs to be replaced, and a distribution block that likely needs repair or replacement already.

[Nacho-RT74]

sorry, I described wrong my failure....

when giving brakes, the rear bowl which is front brakes system also gets the longer piston race. This makes to handle more volume and pressure. With diferential piston seals ( O rings ) into the dist block failing, this makes the brake fluid goes through the diferential piston cylinder section, also moving it a bit ( turning on the light ) and returning the brake fluid to the master cylinder front bowl ( rear brakes ) overflowing it.

Now about what you told:

If both bowls are getting emptied, that's definitelly a leak somewhere, and maybe your distribution block is working propperlly, indicating you the brake fluid pressure failure.

As I told, master cylinders are available yet ( search was made for 74 400 due is my car, but is the same for all )

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,1974,charger,6.6l+400cid+v8,1440890,brake+&+wheel+hub,master+cylinder,1836

althought repair kist are available and master cylinders are easy to service:

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,1974,charger,6.6l+400cid+v8,1440890,brake+&+wheel+hub,master+cylinder+repair+kit,1840

if you are worried about the rust around it can be simply cleaned up ( sandblasted, or chemically )  as far cylinder is in good conditions.

rear cylinders, front calipers are also serviceable and not really special tools required. Replacements are available too ( rockauto has everything ).

Booster:

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,1974,charger,6.6l+400cid+v8,1440890,brake+&+wheel+hub,power+brake+booster,1884

Everything from the brake system is available from allmost any parts shop, fairly cheap and easy to service.

The only exception is as I told, the distributor block, which the only source for rebuild kit as far I know is the one I posted previouslly and no replacements available. LOOOOOONg time ago, repro replacement parts were available, but they didn't last long ( once again, don't ask me how I know it!!! )

[aifilaw]

This is everything I needed, thank you!

sorry, I described wrong my failure....

when giving brakes, the rear bowl which is front brakes system also gets the longer piston race. This makes to handle more volume and pressure. With diferential piston seals ( O rings ) into the dist block failing, this makes the brake fluid goes through the diferential piston cylinder section, also moving it a bit ( turning on the light ) and returning the brake fluid to the master cylinder front bowl ( rear brakes ) overflowing it.

Now about what you told:

If both bowls are getting emptied, that's definitelly a leak somewhere, and maybe your distribution block is working propperlly, indicating you the brake fluid pressure failure.

As I told, master cylinders are available yet ( search was made for 74 400 due is my car, but is the same for all )

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,1974,charger,6.6l+400cid+v8,1440890,brake+&+wheel+hub,master+cylinder,1836

althought repair kist are available and master cylinders are easy to service:

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,1974,charger,6.6l+400cid+v8,1440890,brake+&+wheel+hub,master+cylinder+repair+kit,1840

if you are worried about the rust around it can be simply cleaned up ( sandblasted, or chemically )  as far cylinder is in good conditions.

rear cylinders, front calipers are also serviceable and not really special tools required. Replacements are available too ( rockauto has everything ).

Booster:

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,1974,charger,6.6l+400cid+v8,1440890,brake+&+wheel+hub,power+brake+booster,1884

Everything from the brake system is available from allmost any parts shop, fairly cheap and easy to service.

The only exception is as I told, the distributor block, which the only source for rebuild kit as far I know is the one I posted previouslly and no replacements available. LOOOOOONg time ago, repro replacement parts were available, but they didn't last long ( once again, don't ask me how I know it!!! )