73 Dodge Charger 400 big block help!!!

[Michaelgt450]

Hello my name is Michael this is my first time post if I post it in the wrong spot sorry you could move it. Anyways I'm building a 73 Dodge Charger 400 big block automatic transmission 727 automatic. It has 87,000 miles one owner my dad recently we got some bad news about him he was diagnosed with cancer.. and I'm building this car for him I really want him to just drive it but I don't really know anything about Chargers or Mopar for that matter so I might need some help what are the torque specs? What it has now is 11 to 1 compression aftermarket  Pistons ..a cam the specs are 480 lift I forgot the duration and some headers and I'm planning on getting RPM Performance Edelbrock intake and a 650 Edelbrock carburetor any help would be appreciated

[70 sublime]

My father also bought a 73 Charger with the 400 motor in it
Still around too but very rusted away

Was your motor rebuilt at some time ?

[Michaelgt450]

That's cool man.. he rebuilt it back in 80 something the things I'm reusing are the Pistons stock rods and crank and block my dad also put 383 cylinder heads

[ACUDANUT]

That's a cool thing to do for your Dad. I however doubt it has 11 to 1 compression.
A Holley 750 is a better choice for the carb.

[Michaelgt450]

Thanks you're probably right... we did check piston to valve clearance it has a lot of clearance... maybe I can sell the 650 and get a 750 Holley carburetor what are the Bolt Bolt torque specs..

[Michaelgt450]

What exhaust should I get he doesn't want it loud I was thinking Dynomax super turbo muffler 2 and 1/2 in?

[John_Kunkel]

You can download a copy of the Factory Serviced Manual here:

http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=109

A must have for torque specs, etc.

[Michaelgt450]

You can download a copy of the Factory Serviced Manual here:

http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=109

A must have for torque specs, etc.

Thank you for this are the 1970s the same torque as the 1973?

[ODZKing]

Thank you for this are the 1970s the same torque as the 1973?

Doubt it. I have a copy of the service manual as well as parts book on my site as well.
http://www.retrorarities.com/images/73DodgeServiceManual.zip

[Michaelgt450]

Thank you for this are the 1970s the same torque as the 1973?

Doubt it. I have a copy of the service manual as well as parts book on my site as well.
http://www.retrorarities.com/images/73DodgeServiceManual.zip

Thank you so much this is exactly what I needed I have one more question are these cars is the engine internal balance or external for stock .... what's a good harmonic balancer replacement... the stock harmonic balancer the rubber is coming off and it needs to be replaced

[Nacho-RT74]

Welcome and great you will help on your Dad's Charger.

Torque specs use to came associated with bolt size and metal grade ( and the metal piece is tightening up ). On this case head bolts are 5/8" as far I recall torque must be around 55 lbs on an initial step then raised up to 70 lbs. ( this is not way diff from other manufacturers ) to be torqued on this order:



383 heads won't be diff from the original 400 heads, unless they are pre 68 heads which are closed chambers. I seriouslly doubt you got 11:1 CR with stock pistons at least, not even with closed chambers. Unless got custom pistons or stroked engine ( and with some decking job added ). HiPo pistons variety for 400 are limited to ONE as far I know... Hypereutectic KB 240.

Stock pistons are rated into the 8.2:1 CR, and that's just being a blueprinted engine. Usually Block deck height and combustion chambers are way bigger than specs and you could get a 7.5:1 CR on a 400

400 uses to be external balanced since they are cast cranks. Some earlier 4 speeds 400 got forged crank which are internally balanced but those are not really common.

[Michaelgt450]

Welcome and great you will help on your Dad's Charger.

Torque specs use to came associated with bolt size and metal grade. On this case head bolts are 5/8" as far I recall torque must be around 55 lbs on an initial step then raised up to 70 lbs. on this order:



400 uses to be external balanced since they are cast cranks. Some earlier 4 speeds 400 got forged crank which are internally balanced.

Thank you for your warm welcome and it is a process to put these engines together I'm going to need all the help I can get.
It's a 400 727 automatic 3 speed so I'm guessing external balance what's a good replacement for the harmonic balancer I think the crank is cast... at least it felt like that it doesn't have stock Pistons it has aftermarket Pistons but 11 to 1 compression... with this be a good replacement harmonic balancer. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ati-918601e/year/1973/make/dodge/model/charger

[John_Kunkel]

Those dampers are nice but a lot of money. Is your damper missing or just used up? It can be rebuilt for a fraction of the new ones.

https://damperdoctor.com/

[Michaelgt450]

Those dampers are nice but a lot of money. Is your damper missing or just used up? It can be rebuilt for a fraction of the new ones.

https://damperdoctor.com/

They are a lot of money it's just used up where can I get it rebuilt?

[John_Kunkel]

Click on the link to damper doctor.

[Nacho-RT74]

dunno what is happening with the images I'm posting ( hosted from anywhere on the web )... and I can't find it now

it came from here but I was pretty sure I posted the jpg link!!!

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/proxy/D8GpB6iL60YrKJ0snUiYpAtknmeBLeDMkD0dix4Tsd_IjTUV3jI48mudZ_ZjBP_EB77uNvs9DNm5wYXqZijEFQXQ

[Michaelgt450]

Click on the link to damper doctor.

Thank you so much I learned something today that the engine is external balanced I may get that balancer or just rebuilt it what dampener do you have do you have a aftermarket.... I checked my crank crankshaft it's cast

[Nacho-RT74]

at least it felt like that it doesn't have stock Pistons it has aftermarket Pistons but 11 to 1 compression...

wondering where they came out from ? never have known about "out of the shelf" HiPo pistons for 400s aside the ones I mentioned. Maybe back in the days?

[Michaelgt450]

Thank you all for the help  it slowly coming together  I already got the harmonic balancer from that place  you recommended
What kind of spark plugs should I run should I run copper?
Also which aluminum water pump housing will work for my car? Part number? Also what alternator to run I have the stock when but I want to get a little bit better one any ideas of what is a plug-in play upgrade? Also the starter I have the stock one but I want to get a lighter one and a high-torque one any recommendations plug-in play I've been looking at a Mopar license starter are those any good? Also anything I can do to make it a little bit faster make more horsepower while I have the engine out I did add a windage tray the mr. Gasket one

[Nacho-RT74]

wow!!! what pistons are those ?

[Michaelgt450]

Iris something like that 11 to 1 compression Pistons my dad back in the day pay $400 for those

[Nacho-RT74]

but, brand?... PN? $400 ? that's the same price of the KB240 hipereutectic flat top pistons!!!!!

[Michaelgt450]

but, brand?... PN? $400 ? that's the same price of the KB240 hipereutectic flat top pistons!!!!!

It's been so long my dad doesn't remember the PIN he said the brand was Iris or something like that's the same price for Flat Top piston these are not flat top are flat top stock?

[Nacho-RT74]

stocks are flat top... KB240 are flat tops too but higher CH than stock and with valve reliefs

[Michaelgt450]

stocks are flat top... KB240 are flat tops too but higher CH than stock and with valve reliefs

Nice to know thank you.... I have the OEM water pump housing but it's heavier and I want to upgrade to a aluminum one do you know of any? That will work for my engine?

[Nacho-RT74]

check this:

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,60599.0.html

A bit old, maybe some things have changed but nice to be with eyes open.

Most of aluminium water pump housings are to pre 72 engine setups. 73s and lates housings were a more recent release.

[Michaelgt450]

check this:

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,60599.0.html

A bit old, maybe some things have changed but nice to be with eyes open.

Most of aluminium water pump housings are to pre 72 engine setups. 73s and lates housings were a more recent release.

Thank you so much for this I was about to make a big mistake so I guess don't get the aluminum housing stick with the stock one okay well now I know thanks... how about the rear main seal should I try to find the Rope Style?

[Nacho-RT74]

KB240 pistons ( old desing, new design got same size valve pockets )



this say to sit .020" down the hole with a blue printed block ( correctly decked per factory specs... which usually is not, but a bit higher ). Stock pistons usally sit .110-.130 down the hole or so





rear seal...

when making a rebuilt, rope seal is the best for me ( IMHO ), But with engine built, is nearly imposible to install it, so rubber seal is the only way to go. Some ppl would advice to install it a bit offset to prevent the leaks with matching edges between seal ends and cap.



this is not excluisve for mopars ALTHOUGHT its not uncommon having a Mopar and leave its oil mark ( couple of drops maybe ) where it parks LOL. That's just marking its territory LOL.

Pay attention to cap side seals. Sometimes we think the crack seal is the problem, but really the side seals could be a reason!!!

[Nacho-RT74]

need to note I NOT MECHANIC!!! just fan of my car and learnt a lot while building... and i don't have life at this moment so hence the reason why I reply quick LOL... there are ppl with WAY more knowledgement than me. About mechanic at least!!!!

check this:

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,60599.0.html

A bit old, maybe some things have changed but nice to be with eyes open.

Most of aluminium water pump housings are to pre 72 engine setups. 73s and lates housings were a more recent release.

Thank you so much for this I was about to make a big mistake so I guess don't get the aluminum housing stick with the stock one okay well now I know thanks... how about the rear main seal should I try to find the Rope Style?

It is an interesting read BUT some stuff could have been changed since that. I know there are couple of more manufacturers now, and on those days just the pre 72 setup was available ( which gets the bottom outlet to driver side, while 73 and lates is passenger side ) from THAT manufacturer/seller. Juts pay attention on this if thinking on that part for your car.

[Michaelgt450]

need to note I NOT MECHANIC!!! just fan of my car and learnt a lot while building... and i don't have life at this moment so hence the reason why I reply quick LOL... there are ppl with WAY more knowledgement than me. About mechanic at least!!!!

check this:

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,60599.0.html

A bit old, maybe some things have changed but nice to be with eyes open.

Most of aluminium water pump housings are to pre 72 engine setups. 73s and lates housings were a more recent release.

Thank you so much for this I was about to make a big mistake so I guess don't get the aluminum housing stick with the stock one okay well now I know thanks... how about the rear main seal should I try to find the Rope Style?

It is an interesting read BUT some stuff could have been changed since that. I know there are couple of more manufacturers now, and on those days just the pre 72 setup was available ( which gets the bottom outlet to driver side, while 73 and lates is passenger side ) from THAT manufacturer/seller. Juts pay attention on this if thinking on that part for your car.

Thank you for all your knowledge your experience still matters this is not my first time rebuilding an engine so I know that the OEM stuff is way better than the aftermarket stuff there just no comparison... also when I was looking at that aluminum housing it said only for non-ac which my car has AC and I want to use it so that's out of the question also that's pretty cool to learn about those Pistons also I found some New Old Stock Parts rear main seal wondering if they would work on my engine https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-Mopar-891457-Rear-Main-Rope-Seal-4-PC-Pkg/293575792280

[Michaelgt450]

KB240 pistons ( old desing, new design got same size valve pockets )



this say to sit .020" down the hole with a blue printed block ( correctly decked per factory specs... which usually is not, but a bit higher ). Stock pistons usally sit .110-.130 down the hole or so





rear seal...

when making a rebuilt, rope seal is the best for me ( IMHO ), But with engine built, is nearly imposible to install it, so rubber seal is the only way to go. Some ppl would advice to install it a bit offset to prevent the leaks with matching edges between seal ends and cap.



this is not excluisve for mopars ALTHOUGHT its not uncommon having a Mopar and leave its oil mark ( couple of drops maybe ) where it parks LOL. That's just marking its territory LOL.

Pay attention to cap side seals. Sometimes we think the crack seal is the problem, but really the side seals could be a reason!!!

Those Pistons are definitely not on my car... way different mind look

[Michaelgt450]

I have another question what size headers should I get for this engine 1 5/8 or 1 3/4 or 1 7/8 I'm looking at long tubes

[Michaelgt450]

This is how the engine looks now

[Michaelgt450]

My question is do I have to run a PCV valve with this breathers

[ACUDANUT]

 YES.

[Michaelgt450]

If anybody's interested this was the video that we showed him my dad his car the reveal
https://youtu.be/_HSmGXPw4vI

[spyder]

You guys did a great job, beautiful car, love the ol' skool wheels.

Judging by your description those are probably an old set of "Arias" pistons, looks like they'd have plenty of compression, make sure you're running sufficient octane to prevent damaging the motor.

[moparstuart]

If anybody's interested this was the video that we showed him my dad his car the reveal
https://youtu.be/_HSmGXPw4vI

Fantastic    ,  great father son project     

[Nacho-RT74]

wowo! how clean it looks! is nice to keep the old paint waxed and how it came out, still with those paint chips!

I'd just replace the tail lights due the yellowed back up lense section, and done!

( damn how I miss my Charger!!! )

[Michaelgt450]

You guys did a great job, beautiful car, love the ol' skool wheels.

Judging by your description those are probably an old set of "Arias" pistons, looks like they'd have plenty of compression, make sure you're running sufficient octane to prevent damaging the motor.

Thank you and I plan on keeping the old school Wheels and it sure feels pretty powerful I am using 91 I don't hear any destination I think the cam that I'm using lowered the compression a little so I think that helped... still need a lot of work to be done I'm thinking of changing the rear end to 355

[Michaelgt450]

If anybody's interested this was the video that we showed him my dad his car the reveal
https://youtu.be/_HSmGXPw4vI

Fantastic    ,  great father son project     

It still needs a lot of work when my dad was alive he wanted to paint it orange but I like black but I think I'm going to go with orange

[Michaelgt450]

wowo! how clean it looks! is nice to keep the old paint waxed and how it came out, still with those paint chips!

I'd just replace the tail lights due the yellowed back up lense section, and done!

( damn how I miss my Charger!!! )

You know where is a good source to get the tail light... I don't know if you saw the video but in the video you can hear the valves too tight I had to get a adjustable rockers and it doesn't sound like that anymore..👍 I'm also thinking about getting aluminum driveshaft and an MSD ignition 6al or what do you think should I stick with the stock Mopar electrical ignition or should I upgrade to msdu or should I stick with the stock Driveline or aluminum

[Nacho-RT74]

I'm not an MSD lover soooo... my opinion is byassed. Not because they are bad since they are a valid option, but because most of the times for regular use an MSD system is not necesary. Some ppl have tested in races against some stock setups and the win is minimum. But at each own. It will depend on the rest of engine parts too.

Tail lights lenses. They are available repro allmost at any resto shop on $250-300 rate Sometimes good used can be found with aged look but not so yellowed if you want to match the rest of the car like this https://www.ebay.com/itm/324990385085 and this https://www.ebay.com/itm/224244822246 ( althought buying separatelly they could not match unless a light wax makes them look equal ), but it seems you got new grilles anyway, so new tail light lenses will be a nice add too.

housings, just used... and good luck with that if you wannna try!

[Michaelgt450]

I'm not an MSD lover soooo... my opinion is byassed. Not because they are bad since they are a valid option, but because most of the times for regular use an MSD system is not necesary. Some ppl have tested in races against some stock setups and the win is minimum. But at each own. It will depend on the rest of engine parts too.

Tail lights lenses. They are available repro allmost at any resto shop on $250-300 rate Sometimes good used can be found with aged look but not so yellowed if you want to match the rest of the car like this https://www.ebay.com/itm/324990385085 and this https://www.ebay.com/itm/224244822246 ( althought buying separatelly they could not match unless a light wax makes them look equal ), but it seems you got new grilles anyway, so new tail light lenses will be a nice add too.

housings, just used... and good luck with that if you wannna try!

The MSD I'm still thinking about still need to do more research about it just want to hear what other people have to say about that.. maybe the car starts better with the MSD don't know... definitely will be getting the tail light lens... I definitely want to get a fiberglass Hood also it definitely needs new carpet.. have you ever tried aluminum driveshaft??

[Nacho-RT74]

I don't have money for an aluminum driveshaft and export it to Venezuela LOL. Mostly sure some local shop could make it, but my money must go to another priorities right now.

There are A LOT of Fans of the MSD around and will post their positive opinions. Is true a faster start up and a cleaner gas burnt could be achieved. But still, I'm not a lover of it, but because I'm a stockish look guy. Before get my car into the body shop I was running the Rev-N-Nator ign module. But they are having stock issues as far I know.

[RallyeMike]

Awesome story.....  and love the 10 inch slots 

Denny's Driveshafts (search on-line) makes really nice aluminum driveshafts.

[ODZKing]

Agree with Nacho on the MSD. First I believe they are less reliable than the Mopar boxes. I have had about 6 acquaintances get rid of them because they failed, some away from home.
Second the Mopar box is available just about everywhere so IF you break down on the road, you walk into an Auto Zone or Napa and pick one up. I have one on both my Chargers and only had 1 issue after all these years.
Just my 

[Michaelgt450]

I don't have money for an aluminum driveshaft and export it to Venezuela LOL. Mostly sure some local shop could make it, but my money must go to another priorities right now.

There are A LOT of Fans of the MSD around and will post their positive opinions. Is true a faster start up and a cleaner gas burnt could be achieved. But still, I'm not a lover of it, but because I'm a stockish look guy. Before get my car into the body shop I was running the Rev-N-Nator ign module. But they are having stock issues as far I know.

How do those rev-N-nator ignition module work out for you is it pretty good quality also what kind of ignition coil would last long.. right now I have MSD blaster I was thinking of switching it to a ACDelco

[Michaelgt450]

Awesome story.....  and love the 10 inch slots  

Denny's Driveshafts (search on-line) makes really nice aluminum driveshafts.

Thanks. are they good quality I will search online have you run aluminum driveshaft was it worth it??

[Michaelgt450]

Agree with Nacho on the MSD. First I believe they are less reliable than the Mopar boxes. I have had about 6 acquaintances get rid of them because they failed, some away from home.
Second the Mopar box is available just about everywhere so IF you break down on the road, you walk into an Auto Zone or Napa and pick one up. I have one on both my Chargers and only had 1 issue after all these years.
Just my 

Thanks I will consider this maybe I'll just keep my stock one on for now I bought my stock ignition module NOS what ballast resistor works any?? I have a 5 point ignition module

[Nacho-RT74]

I have used the Rev-N-Nator for just one year only, before get the car to the body shop. Matched with Chromed Blaster 2 coil and it's ballast ( .8 ohms ). After try several units which maybe were more "sparky" at start up ( Chromed MP and the old FBO A688, both failed ) I can say the Rev-N-Nator beats all. It feels more consistant at all RPMs, smooth and responsive without miss a beat.

But unfortunatelly for some reason I dunno, they have been having stock issues since long time ago now. I got the unit #20 ( they have serial number ) of the first run since I was on their waiting list. Maybe even the first exported outside USA. I think they made a revised version later with some internal upgrades.

Agree with Nacho on the MSD. First I believe they are less reliable than the Mopar boxes. I have had about 6 acquaintances get rid of them because they failed, some away from home.
Second the Mopar box is available just about everywhere so IF you break down on the road, you walk into an Auto Zone or Napa and pick one up. I have one on both my Chargers and only had 1 issue after all these years.
Just my 

Interesting the story about the reliability experience you got. In Venezuela I think just have known about couple of units failing in aaaaall these years. Sure I don't know every MSD user around. However I have lived and known really bad experiences about stock ECU ignitions which makes to most of Mopar owners in Vzla change to MSD if running into Performance world, or GM ign module adaptation if keeping stock dist, or simply change to the HEI dist making the propper shaft mod on stock HEI dist. Ppl around there calls "galleta" or "galletita" ( cookie or little cookie ) to the GM ign modules LOL.

I guess most of the stock modules fails are due the chinessium aleation LOL. Some of them are not even to start up the engine just out of the box! And local part shop dealers tipically don't accept returns on electrical auto parts. So we are at on own risk about that.

[Michaelgt450]

In the future I may try this Rev-N-Nator you speak of.. so yesterday I was out driving the car and 2 times it felt like somebody just pull the plug and there was no power it wouldn't do anything but then all of a sudden it ran okay so I brought it back home and then today in the morning I wanted to go drive it out the car doesn't start now.. I change to a new coil. Didn't fix it I put a new ballast resistor that didn't do it I put a new ignition module that didn't fix it... so now I'm wondering if it's a distributor issue... what is a reliable distributor this distributor Mopar didn't last a long time just 1500 miles... I was looking at the firecore A1 Cardone... which one do you guys recommend??

[70 sublime]

Does it crank over but not start ?

Your ignition switch could be worn enough to not be making good contact any more

Try starting it again ( if it cranks over but not start ) and wiggle the key and switch around when cranking ( push the key in harder and move it around )

[Michaelgt450]

Does it crank over but not start ?

Your ignition switch could be worn enough to not be making good contact any more

Try starting it again ( if it cranks over but not start ) and wiggle the key and switch around when cranking ( push the key in harder and move it around )

It does crank over but does not start I will try that right now

[Michaelgt450]

Dude no freaking way it work.. it's running now so does that mean I need a new ignition switch

[70 sublime]

Yep the next part you should get for your car

[Nacho-RT74]

ign switch check is easy.

test light at coil + lead will give you a dimmed light with key in RUN and bright light while cranking with no turning off on the switching process. That will test the ign switch, ign switch plug down the column ( they are prone to get burnt/melted ), bulkhead connection and ballast OK

If your brake pilot light ( and oil light before the oil reach the sender being standard cluster ) also response smooth but dimming while cranking and full when key in RUN ( so the opposite at the test light ) will tell you same parts OK. EXCEPT with key in RUN doesn't test the bulkhead because the feed for the brake light is before the bulkhead connection

IN MY EXPERIENCE... that kind of weird stuff came off a missed connection on distribuitor plug... you can shake it and try ( It happened more than once to me LOL )... or even disconect the ECU plug and check the Ohms value on the wires running to dist ( anything between 150 and 900 ohms, tipically on 250-350 rate thought ). If no reading it could be the dist plugs ( engine harness or dist pigtail ), the dist pigtail, OR the Pickup coil itself damaged.

[Michaelgt450]

ign switch check is easy.

test light at coil + lead will give you a dimmed light with key in RUN and bright light while cranking with no turning off on the switching process. That will test the ign switch, ign switch plug down the column ( they are prone to get burnt/melted ), bulkhead connection and ballast OK

If your brake pilot light ( and oil light before the oil reach the sender being standard cluster ) also response smooth but dimming while cranking and full when key in RUN ( so the opposite at the test light ) will tell you same parts OK. EXCEPT with key in RUN doesn't test the bulkhead because the feed for the brake light is before the bulkhead connection

IN MY EXPERIENCE... that kind of weird stuff came off a missed connection on distribuitor plug... you can shake it and try ( It happened more than once to me LOL )... or even disconect the ECU plug and check the Ohms value on the wires running to dist ( anything between 150 and 900 ohms, tipically on 250-350 rate thought ). If no reading it could be the dist plugs ( engine harness or dist pigtail ), the dist pigtail, OR the Pickup coil itself damaged.

I will definitely try this and I will check the distributor plug maybe it did come off but it works now... how do you change the ignition switch??

[Nacho-RT74]

need to remove the steering wheel and drop the column along with the bracket removing to alow to the ign switch harness and plug to go throught the column collars

Here you have an idea of how to dissasemble it. Of course you don't need to make ALL that, because thats a full restore job, but you will get the idea

https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/mopp-0308-mopar-steering-column-rebuild/

then new replacement ign switches need to be matched with the car setup, since the ones available are made to fit on diff cars and years. But will explain later IF you confirm the ign switch failure

[Michaelgt450]

ign switch check is easy.

test light at coil + lead will give you a dimmed light with key in RUN and bright light while cranking with no turning off on the switching process. That will test the ign switch, ign switch plug down the column ( they are prone to get burnt/melted ), bulkhead connection and ballast OK

If your brake pilot light ( and oil light before the oil reach the sender being standard cluster ) also response smooth but dimming while cranking and full when key in RUN ( so the opposite at the test light ) will tell you same parts OK. EXCEPT with key in RUN doesn't test the bulkhead because the feed for the brake light is before the bulkhead connection

IN MY EXPERIENCE... that kind of weird stuff came off a missed connection on distribuitor plug... you can shake it and try ( It happened more than once to me LOL )... or even disconect the ECU plug and check the Ohms value on the wires running to dist ( anything between 150 and 900 ohms, tipically on 250-350 rate thought ). If no reading it could be the dist plugs ( engine harness or dist pigtail ), the dist pigtail, OR the Pickup coil itself damaged.

The oil light did go off when I was cranking it... it just wouldn't start.. what is the bulkhead??

[Nacho-RT74]

Firewall connector


The oli light can go eventually off if oil reachs the sender depending on how much time you were cranking. What about the brake light on cluster?

[Michaelgt450]

Firewall connector


The oli light can go eventually off if oil reachs the sender depending on how much time you were cranking. What about the brake light on cluster?

It was on.. how do they look like the fire wall connector??
What do I need to do to those connectors just clean them??

[Michaelgt450]

So I clean the bulkhead connectors everything looks pretty good no burning no nothing

[Nacho-RT74]

cool... that's amazin. Tipically the thick black ( alt ) and red ( batt ) wires show marks of overheating melting the bulkhead housing. That tipically affects the wiring and terminals around him, and the blue one, RUN circuit, uses to be affected by the meltdown

more here:
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php?topic=137482.0

there you will find more info about same kind of failures. Rallye cluster shown but the same for Standard cluster

ign switch plug is another place to check

[Mike DC]

  
Counterfeited ignition boxes are a factor in the failure rates.  You can go online and buy fake MSD boxes all day long.  The other choices have the problem too.    
 

[Michaelgt450]

cool... that's amazin. Tipically the thick black ( alt ) and red ( batt ) wires show marks of overheating melting the bulkhead housing. That tipically affects the wiring and terminals around him, and the blue one, RUN circuit, uses to be affected by the meltdown

more here:
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php?topic=137482.0

there you will find more info about same kind of failures. Rallye cluster shown but the same for Standard cluster

ign switch plug is another place to check

Yeah mine did not look like that mine was nice just very dirty had green stuff but I cleaned it
I checked the ignition switch connections and they seem pretty good also also the car runs hasn't turned off on me so I guess it's fix I don't know what I did but it's running good...
I cleaned all the grounds everything is okay

[Michaelgt450]

Also I'm running a t t i 2400 torque converter.... are those good torque converters or is my stock when better I have the stock one I never tried it with the stock one??