Alternator/regulator wiring question

[GrazerX]

My alternator is struggling with stereo upgrades and EFI so have ordered a nice looking Proform 110A from Summit. It is a 1 wire alternator with internal regulator. Does that mean I can lose my existing voltage regulator? Also I seem to have 2 separate ballast resistors - any thoughts on how to tidy it all up?! My charger is being filmed for TV here in Scotland next week so hoping to get it all sorted over the weekend!

[70 sublime]

Filmed as looking under the hood of your car or just driving around ?
I would not mess with anything other than the alternator if you are on a time dead line

No idea why you would have a second ballast resistor and it looks to be hooked to something 

[GrazerX]

Primarily driving but they may go under the hood. I am loathe to start messing around too much but aware it's not a straight swap as the alternator doesn't have a field connection to go to the existing voltage regulator. Looking at the pics of it though it does seem to have other connection points on the back - I can't find what these are anywhere!

[Nacho-RT74]

there is no reason to get two ballast resistors UNLESS, your Ignition Module is 5 pins, in which case it uses a double ballast resistor and who installed that added a second one to feed it... which IN FACT SEEMS TO BE LIKE THAT because both ballast are jumped between them just like dual ballast resistors are originally



If that's the case wondering whats the resistor value on the second one because the double ballast is set to 4.5-5.5 ohms on the secondary resistor, while regular single resistors use to run between 0.5 and 1.5 ohms


Now, about the alt... can you provide manufacturer PN for it ?

A 1 wire alternator should usually get 1 wire to alt stud, and no more. So the pic can be a generic one. Yes you should be able to rid off the regulator of course ( and related wires )

[70 sublime]

The alternator in my car is set up just like the alternator picture

Mine has the two prongs coming out the back and one goes to the regulator marked field side and the other wire is just a ground wire

[Dano 1]

The top one looks like the resistor for the wiper motor, typically they're mounted on the motor itself but someone may have moved it.

[Nacho-RT74]

The alternator in my car is set up just like the alternator picture

Mine has the two prongs coming out the back and one goes to the regulator marked field side and the other wire is just a ground wire

yeap, thats is the dual field setup installed on single prong system, but still external regulator. One wire alt is internal regulator. It should be just the thick wire arriving to the big stud.

I can see on the picture one of the prongs is feeded from internal regulator ( green wire coming out from the back of the case )

[Nacho-RT74]

The top one looks like the resistor for the wiper motor, typically they're mounted on the motor itself but someone may have moved it.

yeap it seems pretty much the same but is not being used for wiper, like ignition system itself. We can see the jumper wire between both resistor, just like dual ballast are made

[GrazerX]

Thanks everyone. it's a Proform 440-473 https://www.proformparts.com/product-detail/440-473/alternator-110-amp-chrysler-mopar-1-wire-style-v-belt-pulley-black-crinkle

To be honest I'm about to get rid of all those wires and go down the MSD 6AL and Blaster coil route as nothing I do will get rid of my RPM interference on the EFI!

[Nacho-RT74]

Looking at it closely, the only wire you'll need will be te main one. One of the brushes is wired from the internal regulator while the other one is grounded through a metallic washer down the mounting screw, instead the original isolation washer. So is designed to work just like single field ones but using the dual field revised squareback alternator casing.

Yes you can rid of regulator and related wiring. No you can't get rid off the resistors using original Ignition system. You could get rid off the upper resistor thought ( well I guess the top one is the extra one ) if the ECU being used is 4 pins one, but not if is the 5 pins one and if the top resistor is going nowhere, meaning the unexistant pin on the 4 pins setup.

[Nacho-RT74]

BTW would be really interesting to know the ohms value of that extra resistor! And why don't run the correct one instead?

They are quite cheap... and plugs are available around ( the problem would be as usual the shipping, unless you get some resto parts shops in UK )

If you wanna get rid of wires and move to MSD, I would choose a Ready to run distributor.

Or another option is Pertronix Ignitor system ( I II or III ), which can be installed into your existant distributor. This will make your car looks like originally was on 1968, without any visible ignition module and still stock distributor from outside, but without resistor.

Yes, I know having an EFI system is not really anymore stock look in all the word extension, but an external ignition box will require more wiring, and per what I understand, you want to clean it up a bit of that.