Are Topline Johnson lifters still being made?

[Kern Dog]

Has anyone bought any of these lifters recently?
I am going with a Comp Hydraulic cam and while their lifters may be fine, I am interested in trying something else.
In 2006, I wiped 2 Comp Cams in my red car, back to back. This was before I knew about Zinc and Phosphorus levels. Since then, I have used a MP 509, a Lunati solid and the MP 528 solid. With the last 2, I used the Howards lifters with the EDM hole for direct oiling.
I'm building the original 383 for my other car and I want to reduce the risk of failure.

[maxwellwedge]

I bought a set about 4 months ago. Great lifters. No issues.

[john108]

Can you use the lifters that was included with your 528?

[Kern Dog]

I went to the parts shed and grabbed a set of Comp Cams lifters that I bought almost 10 years ago. Hydraulic flat tappet, not solids.
A video on YouTube from Uncle Tony's Garage was based on lifter failure. He showed how all lifters have a convex base so if they are machined right, they should not sit perfectly flat on a flat surface. He took feeler gauges and was able to slide it under the lifter all the way around it. I did a similar thing. I put a flat piece of steel on a slight slope and let the lifter sit upright. The feeler gauge was able to slide around the lifter from the 7:00 position all the way to 12:00 and down to the 5:00 position. I rotated the lifter 180 degrees and tested again. The lifters all passed that test.
Then I slipped them in the block to see if they moved freely. They all did, they moved up and down and could spin as well.
The cam and lifters are for a 383 that I'm building for my other 1970 Charger. I have a build thread here in the General section titled "Here is what $5000 buys you".

[cdr]

I went to the parts shed and grabbed a set of Comp Cams lifters that I bought almost 10 years ago. Hydraulic flat tappet, not solids.
A video on YouTube from Uncle Tony's Garage was based on lifter failure. He showed how all lifters have a convex base so if they are machined right, they should not sit perfectly flat on a flat surface. He took feeler gauges and was able to slide it under the lifter all the way around it. I did a similar thing. I put a flat piece of steel on a slight slope and let the lifter sit upright. The feeler gauge was able to slide around the lifter from the 7:00 position all the way to 12:00 and down to the 5:00 position. I rotated the lifter 180 degrees and tested again. The lifters all passed that test.
Then I slipped them in the block to see if they moved freely. They all did, they moved up and down and could spin as well.
The cam and lifters are for a 383 that I'm building for my other 1970 Charger. I have a build thread here in the General section titled "Here is what $5000 buys you".

That is only part of the flat tappet HYDRO issue, many internal failures from Comp & others hydro lifters, I would get some Johnson lifters, not the hylift ones.
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwiTybyzhp_sAhWLVN8KHY_DCeMQFjAAegQIARAD&url=https%3A%2F%2Fjohnsonlifters.com%2F&usg=AOvVaw3ugcNONQhJEUBhMHijMiQ5

[c00nhunterjoe]

Even on a street mill, i would go with a mild solid. Comparing apples to apples, the solid will make 15% more hp for the same cam with ease. People are scared of solids based on the old small block chevy theory of adjusting valves every weekend. Put a decent set of rockers on it, set it, and forget it.

[Kern Dog]

I'm not scared of solid cams. I have the MP 528 in this car:

[Kern Dog]

A solid cam means another chunk of cash for adjustable rocker arms and pushrods.

[XH29N0G]

Do the same issues exist with solid lifters and manufacturers?

[Dano 1]

For what it's worth I just used comp cams lifters on my 440 and they broke in just fine. Having lost a cam I was pretty paranoid about failure but I guess I got lucky. I watched the same Uncle Tony video(s) as well, he presents some solid info that's really helpful. I would also double check your valve spring rate, it seems 'most' people recommend seat pressure under 100lbs for break-in, I went with a super mild cam so the recommended springs were right at 100lbs but if you're going with a more aggressive cam it might be worth a check.

Even on a street mill, i would go with a mild solid. Comparing apples to apples, the solid will make 15% more hp for the same cam with ease. People are scared of solids based on the old small block chevy theory of adjusting valves every weekend. Put a decent set of rockers on it, set it, and forget it.

Next engine I build will be a solid cam, with all the flat tappet bs around oil, poor QC on lifters etc etc I'd rather just avoid the whole mess and make more power to boot. Not exactly budget-build friendly but it beats wiping cams...

[c00nhunterjoe]

The main issue with hydraulics is them bleeding off and making noise with stability issues.

[Kern Dog]

This will not be a dedicated race car. It will be driven sporadically, maybe about as much as my red car. Racing is not the main focus here, nor is sustained high rpm operation. It will get WOT blasts occasionally. The 383 may just serve as a way to get the car mobile for awhile. I may step up to a bigger engine later. For now, reliability and oil retention is important.

[c00nhunterjoe]

Its only a race car if that is the label you put on it...