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How to protect a bare metal shell

Started by Chargerguy74, August 13, 2020, 09:46:34 PM

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Chargerguy74

Hey guys, I'm hoping that someone with more experience could help me out here. I am not a body guy, at all. I purchased a car that was in bare metal for about a year by that point. There are a lot of spots with surface rust from being exposed. I am still not quite ready to do the body work as I'm currently hunting down some more sheet metal, and haven't found the right body guy yet. I got a quote today for $5000 (CAD) to blast it and seal it, but he strongly recommended that I get the body work done first. And I'm not there yet. I'm looking for a cheaper, more do it yourself method to stop the rust. Maybe the POR-15 "3 step system"? Looking for advice on how to proceed. If the best solution is the $5000 solution, then so be it, but the body work will have to be tackled later. I just don't want to let the car keep rusting. Thoughts?

WANTED: NOS or excellent condition 72-74 4 speed shifter boot for bench or centre armrest car, part number 3467755. It's a rubber boot that looks like it's sewn up leather.

WANTED: My original 440 blocks. Serial # 2A188182 and 3A100002

Ryan

I would have it blasted and sprayed in epoxy.  It'll be protected for years if needed.  I'm not sure what the current US / CAD exchange is but $5,000 seems a little steep, maybe shop around a little.
69 charger r/t Triple Black
   572 HEMI, Passion 5 speed, 4.10 Dana under construction

2014 viper TA

Chargerguy74

I'll do some calling around. Thank you.
WANTED: NOS or excellent condition 72-74 4 speed shifter boot for bench or centre armrest car, part number 3467755. It's a rubber boot that looks like it's sewn up leather.

WANTED: My original 440 blocks. Serial # 2A188182 and 3A100002

CDN72SE

I had mine done for about $3000CAD, soda blasted and then epoxy primer.
Included all body panels as well.
I would definitely shop around.


1972 Charger SE

Chargerguy74

Nice. Thanks. For what I'm looking for, would the colour of epoxy matter?
WANTED: NOS or excellent condition 72-74 4 speed shifter boot for bench or centre armrest car, part number 3467755. It's a rubber boot that looks like it's sewn up leather.

WANTED: My original 440 blocks. Serial # 2A188182 and 3A100002


hemi-hampton

I've always done mine the same for past 30 years & always worked great for me. I do it different then most, if I can & have time I DA sand all fresh clean bare metal with 150 grit. blow off. wipe with wax & grease remover, blow off again. Then apply PPG Self Etching Wash Primer, Then apply PPG Epoxy Primer. can vary from 1 to 2 coats of each. Some people will tell you you can't apply epoxy primer over wash primer. That depends. PPG makes 2 different wash primers. one you can add epoxy over it & one you can't. All you gotta do, And this is very important is read all the TDS (Technical Data Sheets) something many don't do. Another thing, Rust Stoppers like Rust Mort, Eastwood Rust ecapsulator, ect, ect, there are a ton of these different products out there, like I said, you must read the Data Sheets, Many of these Products will tell you do not apply that product over clean sandblasted metal. WHY? Many need Rust to actually work & do what it's suppose to do, putting alot of those products is a waste of time on clean blasted metal although some do not seem to be aware of this. Good Luck. LEON.

b5blue

Do you have a way to treat/coat inside the rails and cavities of the chassis?  :scratchchin:

Daytona R/T SE

I just bought some of this to use on my reproduction steel Daytona parts:

https://evapo-rust.com/rust-block/

I haven't tried it yet, but as soon as I get this latest Daytona nosecone welded up, I will.

The product is supposed to protect bare metal for up to one year -if stored indoors- when you're ready to do body work and paint, you just wash it off with warm water...

It is available in larger quantities than just the little bottles that I bought.

I've been happy with the other evaporust product I've used to clean up rusty parts, so this looks promising...



Use this to clean off any existing surface rust first:

https://evapo-rust.com/evapo-rust/


Chargerguy74

I've got a 5 gallon pail of that stuff already. Found out the hard way it'll attack the base metal if things are left in it too long. I'll see if I can round up the other stuff..
WANTED: NOS or excellent condition 72-74 4 speed shifter boot for bench or centre armrest car, part number 3467755. It's a rubber boot that looks like it's sewn up leather.

WANTED: My original 440 blocks. Serial # 2A188182 and 3A100002

Ryan

Quote from: hemi-hampton on August 14, 2020, 08:14:12 PM
I've always done mine the same for past 30 years & always worked great for me. I do it different then most, if I can & have time I DA sand all fresh clean bare metal with 150 grit. blow off. wipe with wax & grease remover, blow off again. Then apply PPG Self Etching Wash Primer, Then apply PPG Epoxy Primer. can vary from 1 to 2 coats of each. Some people will tell you you can't apply epoxy primer over wash primer. That depends. PPG makes 2 different wash primers. one you can add epoxy over it & one you can't. All you gotta do, And this is very important is read all the TDS (Technical Data Sheets) something many don't do. Another thing, Rust Stoppers like Rust Mort, Eastwood Rust ecapsulator, ect, ect, there are a ton of these different products out there, like I said, you must read the Data Sheets, Many of these Products will tell you do not apply that product over clean sandblasted metal. WHY? Many need Rust to actually work & do what it's suppose to do, putting alot of those products is a waste of time on clean blasted metal although some do not seem to be aware of this. Good Luck. LEON.


Curious but why the wash primer under the epoxy ?  Thanks!
69 charger r/t Triple Black
   572 HEMI, Passion 5 speed, 4.10 Dana under construction

2014 viper TA

blakemon

I used the Eastwood product and so far I have no complaints.

Canadian1968

Quote from: Ryan on August 16, 2020, 03:51:45 PM
Quote from: hemi-hampton on August 14, 2020, 08:14:12 PM
I've always done mine the same for past 30 years & always worked great for me. I do it different then most, if I can & have time I DA sand all fresh clean bare metal with 150 grit. blow off. wipe with wax & grease remover, blow off again. Then apply PPG Self Etching Wash Primer, Then apply PPG Epoxy Primer. can vary from 1 to 2 coats of each. Some people will tell you you can't apply epoxy primer over wash primer. That depends. PPG makes 2 different wash primers. one you can add epoxy over it & one you can't. All you gotta do, And this is very important is read all the TDS (Technical Data Sheets) something many don't do. Another thing, Rust Stoppers like Rust Mort, Eastwood Rust ecapsulator, ect, ect, there are a ton of these different products out there, like I said, you must read the Data Sheets, Many of these Products will tell you do not apply that product over clean sandblasted metal. WHY? Many need Rust to actually work & do what it's suppose to do, putting alot of those products is a waste of time on clean blasted metal although some do not seem to be aware of this. Good Luck. LEON.


Curious but why the wash primer under the epoxy ?  Thanks!

He kind of already explained it. PPG offers a wash and epoxy that are compliant with each other.  He has had great experience with it, so he continues to use the process .   

Also pointed out that a lot of epoxies DO NOT recommend an etch or wash primer, that's why you need to read the TDS.

He is not trying to say , use a wash primer with all epoxy .

hemi-hampton

Wash Primers have different chemicals & properties in it then epoxy primers & the 2 together give better protection. :Twocents: LEON.