No power when my ignition switch is in the start position

[Blakcharger440]

I have a 1970 Charger RT with 440 4speed. It also has the MP electronic distributor. I went to start my car and it will not start. When I put the key in the ignition I notice it has power when when I turn the key in the start position but when I turn the ignition to the start position all of the sudden there is zero power and my gauges also have no power in the start position.

I also notice that when in the ignition run position my voltmeter reads 10 volts but when I turn the ignition to the accessory position I get the full 12 volts. I tested my battery and it reads 12.3 volts.

Anybody have any suggestions?

[green69rt]

Take that battery out of the car and down to a auto parts store or Walmart.  Get it load tested.  Voltage readings don't tell you much and can confuse the issue.  Once you are sure you have a good battery, then you can look elsewhere.

[70 sublime]

Do you have a neutral safety switch in your car ?

[ACUDANUT]

If it has a MP electronic distributor, check the ignition box (Orange/chrome) 4-5 pin on the firewall.

[Blakcharger440]

Take that battery out of the car and down to a auto parts store or Walmart.  Get it load tested.  Voltage readings don't tell you much and can confuse the issue.  Once you are sure you have a good battery, then you can look elsewhere.

I hooked up my battery jump starter with the same results.

[Nacho-RT74]

Do you miss the brake pilot light on cluster trying to crank ?

brown circuit coming out from ign switch could be broken somewhere... either at ign switch itself or bulkhead.

Gauges takes its power from acc source, which is not sourced while you are cranking, thats why you miss the gauges reading... is on that way. Not the brake light which takes the power from RUN circuit ( hence my question ), because while cranking the brown circuit feeding the Ign2, also feeds the RUN circuit ( Ign1 ) through the ballast, so the brake light on cluster should dimm out while cranking

[Nacho-RT74]

I also notice that when in the ignition run position my voltmeter reads 10 volts but when I turn the ignition to the accessory position I get the full 12 volts. I tested my battery and it reads 12.3 volts.

where is the voltimeter getting its reading ?

[Blakcharger440]

Do you have a neutral safety switch in your car ?

Yes it has the factory clutch safety switch since it is original 440 4speed car but I do not have the switch hooked up I bypassed it since the wire had broken off a long time ago and to my knowledge they do not make any replacements.

[Blakcharger440]

Do you miss the brake pilot light on cluster trying to crank ?

brown circuit coming out from ign switch could be broken somewhere... either at ign switch itself or bulkhead.

Gauges takes its power from acc source, which is not sourced while you are cranking, thats why you miss the gauges reading... is on that way. Not the brake light which takes the power from RUN circuit ( hence my question ), because while cranking the brown circuit feeding the Ign2, also feeds the RUN circuit ( Ign1 ) through the ballast, so the brake light on cluster should dimm out while cranking

I will check that brown circuit to make sure it is not broken anywhere in its path.

[Blakcharger440]

I found the problem! I fixed it and everything is now fine. It was a broken wire at the starter relay ignition terminal on the firewall.

[Kern Dog]

Take that battery out of the car and down to a auto parts store or Walmart.  Get it load tested.  Voltage readings don't tell you much and can confuse the issue.  Once you are sure you have a good battery, then you can look elsewhere.

I should have done this with my last battery problem. The car struggled to start when cold, stated okay when warm but then struggled again when it was up to temperature. The 6 month old battery was bad!