Low Profile Air Cleaner Base * UPDATE Pic's 6/2/06 *

[4402tuff4u]

Was wondering if anyone knew if a low profile air cleaner/base is manufactured for the large 17" dia. double snorkel air cleaner pans? All the ones I see advertised are for 14" diameter pans. I placed the Edelbrock carb and air cleaner pan last night on the 440 and needed approximately 1" to close the hood.

[Ghoste]

I'm afraid your options are pretty much limited to drop base aftermarket open element styles.

[4402tuff4u]

I'm afraid your options are pretty much limited to drop base aftermarket open element styles.

I'm thinking worse case scenario, I'll buy a 17" base, lets say in Carlisle (don't want to cut the original one), and I'll cut it and weld up a 2" ring around the outer edge - approx. 1 1/2" from edge to drop the elevation of the pan. It might work.

[Just 6T9 CHGR]

I used a Ferd Motorsport drop base for my round unsilenced air cleaner.   It has the same weirs 13" diameter as the original base but with a 2" drop.....now my pie tin doesnt hit my hood pad

[firefighter3931]

Was wondering if anyone knew if a low profile air cleaner/base is manufactured for the large 17" dia. double snorkel air cleaner pans? All the ones I see advertised are for 14" diameter pans. I placed the Edelbrock carb and air cleaner pan last night on the 440 and needed approximately 1" to close the hood.

The only problem with that scenerio is that it can cause a restriction on the air flow. The closer the carb throat is to the lid....the less air that gets into the carb. You should have a min 2in between the choke horn and lid....otherwise it's too close and will affect performance. The aftermarket drop base aircleaners and a flow thru top lid will correct the issue.

What manifold are you using ?

Ron


Ps. Here's a link to the air cleaner assembly i'm talking about :


http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=KNN%2D66%2D3040&N=4294925239+4294839057+4294920599+400171+4294904151+4294815142+4294791516+4294904136+4294790850+115&autoview=sku

[4402tuff4u]

I used a Ferd Motorsport drop base for my round unsilenced air cleaner.   It has the same weirs 13" diameter as the original base but with a 2" drop.....now my pie tin doesnt hit my hood pad

Chris, do you know if the Motorsport drop base is lower than the Mopar Performance drop base one or are they the same. If I'm going to go through all this problem, I want to gain as much room as possible.

I just ordered a MP drop base from Mancini ($29.00+/-). If this one works when I try it at home, I'll just buy a used 17" base at Carlisle, place the new MP drop base over the 17" used one, scribe it, cut it and mig weld the 17" ring on the 14" drop base. I want to keep the California double snorkel 17" diameter pan on mine. I hope it works!!

[4402tuff4u]

Was wondering if anyone knew if a low profile air cleaner/base is manufactured for the large 17" dia. double snorkel air cleaner pans? All the ones I see advertised are for 14" diameter pans. I placed the Edelbrock carb and air cleaner pan last night on the 440 and needed approximately 1" to close the hood.

The only problem with that scenerio is that it can cause a restriction on the air flow. The closer the carb throat is to the lid....the less air that gets into the carb. You should have a min 2in between the choke horn and lid....otherwise it's too close and will affect performance. The aftermarket drop base aircleaners and a flow thru top lid will correct the issue.

What manifold are you using ?

Ron


Ps. Here's a link to the air cleaner assembly i'm talking about :


http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=KNN%2D66%2D3040&N=4294925239+4294839057+4294920599+400171+4294904151+4294815142+4294791516+4294904136+4294790850+115&autoview=sku

Ron,
I have the Indy's EZ heads and by the looks of it, the heads brought me up at least 1/2" in height. I'm using the Weigand alum manifold. The machine shop had to shave off the heat chamber completely off at the bottom of the manifold in order to sit her properly. I was thinking about what you just mentioned, that I would probably screw up the flow/rate on the intake.

From your experience, will the drop base give enough clearance? I believe I just needed approximately 1" - 1.5" to close the hood. I guess the thought of adding a phenolic spacer under carb I was planning on putting on is out the window!

[firefighter3931]

From your experience, will the drop base give enough clearance? I believe I just needed approximately 1" - 1.5" to close the hood. I guess the thought of adding a phenolic spacer under carb I was planning on putting on is out the window!

Usually it will. That filter works with the performer rpm on a standard head (eddy rpm, 906 etc.) with the 1.25in drop base and a holley carb. The eddy carb is slightly taller (than a holley) and the intake port sitting 1/2in higher with the EZ's isn't helping either. The good news is that you've got a low profile dual plane intake manifold. Put it this way : if the K&N assembly i linked to above doesn't fit....nothing will.

My own opinion ; it'll fit with a little room to spare. You don't want to have the lid resting against the hood because that defeats the purpose of the flow thru top. Make sure you've got good engine mounts because if the DS biscuit breaks, the aircleaner will smack the hood.  The fan shroud can also be destroyed if the mount fails causing the engine to lift, and the fan hits the shroud....that creates quite a mess 

I posted a motor mount mod awhile back....i suggest you do perform this upgrade to yours 

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,13216.0.html


Ron

[471_Magnum]

I used a Ferd Motorsport drop base for my round unsilenced air cleaner. It has the same weirs 13" diameter as the original base but with a 2" drop.....now my pie tin doesnt hit my hood pad

Yep. This works on both the unsilenced and dual snorkles, however it is rather restrictive. Clearance between the top and the base is less than 1".

[firefighter3931]

Clearance between the top and the base is less than 1".

That's waaaaay too tight.    Talk about choking a nice performing engine 


Ron

[Just 6T9 CHGR]

It was approx 1¾" when I had the air horn on the Holley. (measured with clay)

Switching to a Pro-Form main body with no choke horn gave me plenty of room now

[471_Magnum]

It was approx 1¾" when I had the air horn on the Holley. (measured with clay)

That's not the gap I am referring to. I'm talking about between the recess in the lid at the circumference of the pie tin. You bring up another point of concern though that is even more critical.

[4402tuff4u]

From your experience, will the drop base give enough clearance? I believe I just needed approximately 1" - 1.5" to close the hood. I guess the thought of adding a phenolic spacer under carb I was planning on putting on is out the window!

Usually it will. That filter works with the performer rpm on a standard head (eddy rpm, 906 etc.) with the 1.25in drop base and a holley carb. The eddy carb is slightly taller (than a holley) and the intake port sitting 1/2in higher with the EZ's isn't helping either. The good news is that you've got a low profile dual plane intake manifold. Put it this way : if the K&N assembly i linked to above doesn't fit....nothing will.

My own opinion ; it'll fit with a little room to spare. You don't want to have the lid resting against the hood because that defeats the purpose of the flow thru top. Make sure you've got good engine mounts because if the DS biscuit breaks, the aircleaner will smack the hood.  The fan shroud can also be destroyed if the mount fails causing the engine to lift, and the fan hits the shroud....that creates quite a mess 

I posted a motor mount mod awhile back....i suggest you do perform this upgrade to yours 

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,13216.0.html


Ron

I'm going to have to do something. I set the carb and pan on top this weekend and like I said I will definetly need more room. The motor mounts are brand new, but I think I'm going to put on "suspenders and a belt" too and make that modification to the mount - to avoid the "oh sh*t!" after all this work and $$. Something has to work with the hood clearance, I can imagine I'm the first to use EZ heads and an Eddy on a B body stock hood! If I go with a Holly, how much room will I clear? I'm wondering if I can shave something off the intake - topside by the carb base?

[4402tuff4u]

  I see another problem brewing!

[4402tuff4u]

For those with California Chargers that have the double snorkel air cleaners, I was able to modify the base plate for a low profile set up. I purchased a Pro-Form drop base air cleaner for $ 29 and a 17" dia. Ford air cleaner cover off a 83 pick up at the local salvage yard for $ 15 dollars. I placed the drop base pan on the cover, took some measurements to center it, marked it and cut it with a 4.5" grinder. I lost the fitting that holds the  cutting wheel on my die cutter! I'll get a replacement one. Anyway, after cutting the cover, I tack weld the cover and drop base, and then I placed the air cleaner on the carb with 6 clay points to make sure it would not hit the hood. I measured the clay compressions and I got 1" - 1.25" clearance in the hood. I also measured the distance from the carb rim to the underside of the air cleaner and I got between 3" - 3.5", depending where you are measuring from. It's the same distance as using the stock set up. I'm also contemplating on adding holes to the underside of the base plate - on the outer side if the filter of course, to increase air flow. I then proceeded to stitch weld the cover and drop base together to avoid warpage. I just have to spend a little more time grinding and sanding. possibly a little bondo action, some primer, wrinkle paint and viola!!

Before I started cutting and welding I did spend some time taking measurements and laying out the heights I would need to achieve to make this work. The real test will be when I fire up the 440 and see if it starves from lack of air. I hope it works, I like the double snorkel air cleaner look!! Worst case scenario, I carry a K&N filter for driving and the double snorkel for display!

Oh!, that little window I cut and then added sides to it to seal it is for the electric choke canister on the Edelbrock carb. It was hitting the drop base - not anymore.

[4402tuff4u]

Some more pic's........

[Just 6T9 CHGR]

Nice job Mike!

I do see that you opened up a new can-o-worms now as did I when I put in a drop base.........

Where ya gonna mount the coil?

[471_Magnum]

Have you got your transmission kick down linkage installed? If you're using the stock stuff, I'm pretty sure you'll have issues. You might need the Lokar cable.

[4402tuff4u]

Nice job Mike!

I do see that you opened up a new can-o-worms now as did I when I put in a drop base.........

Where ya gonna mount the coil?

I'm running out of room real quick! Not sure about the coil yet. Have to think a bit on that. I'm debating on leaving out the A/C compressor out. I was laying out things this weekend and it's getting crowded pretty quick, plus I would lighten up approx. 60 lbs of weight. I'm not sure the A/C compressor will fit now anyway with the height difference with the INDY's. I will have to get a different belt pulley set up thou - your car was a/c too Chris right? I do think I have enough height for the coil thou. Will check that out this week. Talk about "can of worms", I think I opened "Pandoras" box as soon as I decided to go with different heads.

471_Magnum, I did not hook the linkage yet. That's one piece I can't locate right now. It's in my garage somewhere, I just have to find it in one of my boxes. What kind of issues do you think I might possibly have? Linkage hitting the air cleaner pan?

[Just 6T9 CHGR]

Mike, FWIW, I just reconnected my kickdown linkage just for looks (I have a manual valvebody so I dont need it) and I didnt have any problems.

For the coil, I wound up having to make up a bracket that moved the coil forward on the manifold....

See pics.

[4402tuff4u]

For some reason, I thought the kickdown rod was the rod that runs down vertically from the top of the engine and hooks up with the tranny rod along the firewall. The rod you show on the picture I do have mounted and it does not hit the pan. I might have to do something like you did with the coil. You only had to clear approx. 5" from the center of the carb. I have to clear like 6"! That might put me beyond the intake manifold. I really dont think it will be a problem. As soon as I get home, I'm going to find out.

Hey Chris, besides the different pulley on the fan & belts, did you have to change anything else to go from a A/C to non A/C set up?

thanks for the help!

[Just 6T9 CHGR]

Mike, the silver rod I pictured is part of the kickdown linkage assy.  Yes there is a rod that goes down the side of the block as well to the trans bellcrank (I dont have that hooked up)

The only other thing I can think of that I changed was the crank pulley (2 grooves) and the upper rad hose
.  The alternator bracketry is different as well

[471_Magnum]

471_Magnum, I did not hook the linkage yet. That's one piece I can't locate right now. It's in my garage somewhere, I just have to find it in one of my boxes. What kind of issues do you think I might possibly have? Linkage hitting the air cleaner pan?

Yes. Linkage hitting the pan.

Looking at Chris' picture you can see how close it is. As he opens the throttle, it will get closer, possibly contacting.

[Just 6T9 CHGR]

Its not even close......at all ranges of throttle movement I can get my finger between it.  Contacting it is not an issue......

[4402tuff4u]

Nice job Mike!

I do see that you opened up a new can-o-worms now as did I when I put in a drop base.........

Where ya gonna mount the coil?

No problem with the coil itself. The coil clears the pan, however I'm going to have to modify the clamp so that the tightening screw/bolt is on the side of the coil. Need to gain that 1/4" - 1/2" height.

I've also decided to install the a/c compressor - I like how engines look with the A/C units and there is the possibility that I will go back to having a functioning A/C unit on the Charger. Last night I started aligning the pulleys and modifying the A/C bracket that attaches to the engine block. I need to loose the 1/2" I gained in height with the INDY EZ heads. I'm almost there with the proper alignment and height - just have to do some welding and grinding. When looking at it, you won't be able to tell it's been modify unless you look very very closely. I just have to buy a new A/C bracket at Carlisle just to have it in case I ever decide to go back to the stock heads. I couldn't find any date codes on the bracket so I wasn't to concern in modifying the bracket.

Geez talk about "can-of-worms"! everything has turn into a "project" or "need to buy this" to make it work! Looking forward to Sunday, I have a interior guy coming over the house to install the head liner! WoooHooo!