AC conversion for 3rd Gen...with pictures

[AKcharger]

Hi guys. for those wondering about an A/C conversion here's so info. Like every project it took a lot longer than expected with hiccups along the way.

Cost
- Classic auto air universal system $1750
- chrome platting dash parts $275
- New dash core $100
- Bits and pieces $20
- New radiator and electric fan/shroud $400

Lessons learned
- Went in OK, I elected to change out the original radiator for max cooling, so lost some originality
- I thought I'd have to reposition AC compressor to the bottom but it DOES fit on top and even with the ramcharger hood base
- the ONLY difference between A/C and non-A/C dash is the drivers side hole. I tried to just cut a hole and use original dash...but it just didn't look right
- I originally had the A/C tubes dump into the factory duct work but it didn't have the same cooling/ fan power for some reason. so ran individual hoses to each vent grill...cold and strong (who would have thought that!)

[AKcharger]

Also did super stereo at the same time...sounds awesome!

[Bob T]

Well, that looks like quite a mission - no small feat to get it installed and cranking - well done!
I do also like that you had a label printer in there for marking your wiring out - good! ( sparky by trade here  )

I do have a side question about your interior door card panels though - they look to be in pretty good condition with not much UV bake off/ fading - can you tell me whether they are original or have you given them a coat of colour at some stage? Mine are classic 1974 blue interior now a shade of pale green and flaky as a set of white flaky things....would be keen to see what other guys have done to mint them up again please.

My car sat for 30 years in dry storage so is in pretty original condition, I also think that maybe although not in sunlight, just age deterioration has hit them hard - usually with people cleaning them regularly or applying an interior conditioning compound occasionally it uses gives them a longer life.

Anyway, interested to hear - Thanks.   

[Nacho-RT74]

My car was same blue... and got shalky too even down a garage roof. ( Venezuelan tropical weather ). Nothing to restore and make to look good back... just replace. I already tried. Nothing works. I changed to white interior in the meant time.

just bad news for you, repro plastic panels are POS. If you got buckets, just bucket panels are available as good repro getting from the right seller ( in my case, Classic industries ).

"Just" three manufacturers... Palco and Accuform are the two ones for B bodies. One is worst than the other. And to make it worst to us 74 owners 74 rear lowers are made just by Accu¿form?... the worst of all. The 3rd one is unknown but I know Classic industries got them as mentioned, same as other sellers. But the 3rd one just work on the bucket seat backs for us because it specialices on E body panels ( the first seller I found with these was called RMrestorations or something like that and now is gone ), which BY CASUALITY are the same for B bodies.

Now Tony's seems to have A pillars too ( Accu$h1t  was the only which had these available untill now too )

Don't ask me how I know it.

the bucket panels are available in molded color from Classic Industries ( which ever is the manufacturer ) and they are close to perfection in grain reproduction. Accu$h1t and Palco just black and white, then will need to be painted to any other color. Palco are in fact made in pure white, but they paint to the correct off white shade. Palco and Accu$h1t also offers bucket seat backs, but forget about those. Neither of both get a nice grain pattern on any panel. Palco tries to be close but blurry. Accu$h1t gets a cool grain pattern, but nothing close to the original, and the edges are blurry and seam simulation is unexistant.

When reassemblying my car will have to combine:

-A pillars and lower rears nice used, in black and painted ( and I hate to paint interior parts, they are prone to the use friction so get worn )
-Kicks and lower doors from Palco
-Seat Backs from Classic Industries

all the Accu$h1t parts I got ( A pillars and lower quarters ) will go mostly sure to the trash can. They are just nice enough to get any panel there for a daily driver car if you don't have them and don't care accuracy.

Initially got Palco bucket backs, because when I got them the other ones weren't available yet, but sold them to a friend with a daily driver Dart when I got the ones from Classic Industries


( Palco is sold by the brand DashTop on the web )

I spent around $1500 to find all of this 

[AKcharger]

Bob thanks for the kind words and good eye on the labels. I was an F-15/F-16 crew chief so learned a few things from the spark chasers...but your questions:
- Lower "card' panels? you mean the plastic ones on the bottom? I hit all the plastic parts with bright blue poly mixed by a local shop (don't forget adhesion primer)
- All my parts were pretty good when I got them except the C-pillars, they were toast
- I found originals on ebay and painted
- I would recommend finding good ORIGINAL parts and paint. I second what Nacho said...I have found 80% of repo stuff is CRAP

[Nacho-RT74]

- All my parts were pretty good when I got them except the C-pillars, they were toast
- I found originals on ebay and painted
- I would recommend finding good ORIGINAL parts and paint. I second what Nacho said...I have found 80% of repo stuff is CRAP

71/72 got C pillars repros now and they "seem" from the distance to be good enough. And they are molded in color.

[Bob T]

- All my parts were pretty good when I got them except the C-pillars, they were toast
- I found originals on ebay and painted
- I would recommend finding good ORIGINAL parts and paint. I second what Nacho said...I have found 80% of repo stuff is CRAP

71/72 got C pillars repros now and they "seem" from the distance to be good enough. And they are molded in color.

Hey - you're a mine of useful information in your other above post Nacho thanks mate, appreciate it! There's a few quirks with the Gen III's that I'm finding out - had 2 68 Chargers - a 318 and an R/T and an Aussie 71 R/T previously, but this is my first 74 - will start a separate thread on it so I don't clutter up other's post's when I get more than 2 days at home in a row...

[Bob T]

Bob thanks for the kind words and good eye on the labels. I was an F-15/F-16 crew chief so learned a few things from the spark chasers...but your questions:
- Lower "card' panels? you mean the plastic ones on the bottom? I hit all the plastic parts with bright blue poly mixed by a local shop (don't forget adhesion primer)
- All my parts were pretty good when I got them except the C-pillars, they were toast
- I found originals on ebay and painted
- I would recommend finding good ORIGINAL parts and paint. I second what Nacho said...I have found 80% of repo stuff is CRAP

Hey, no problem Barry, sharp looking car man, I can remember it from years ago. F15/F16's eh, well, it's always an electrical fault until we sparkies prove to the clanks that it's definitely a mechanical problem Chief! - have been chasing superyachts around a bit and it's always an arm wrestle with the engineers 

Yes- the plastic ones, will get more of a look at it this weekend when I'm home again - only have picked up and owned this car a short time. Good tip with the primer too, will discuss with my buddies Wife - she is the car painter extraordinaire - has done an amazing job on his black 60 Caddie, my old Duster and countless other cars of friends . Thanks for the info too - appreciated. 

[CDN72SE]

Very nice!

[AKcharger]

...Good tip with the primer too, will discuss with my buddies Wife - she is the car painter extraordinaire...

Plstic adhesion primer is a MUST or it will just peel/flake off Also I've had MUCH better lucjk having a local reputable shop mix interior paint and put it in a rattle can for me than buying  the stuff on-line