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What the heck is the difference!

Started by jefferson, April 09, 2020, 05:56:31 AM

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jefferson

Quote from: VegasCharger on April 10, 2020, 01:31:15 AM
Quote from: jefferson on April 10, 2020, 12:46:48 AM
Thanks fellas,
i assume i dont have to replace the whole dash and gauges, i can just replace the plating with a brand new one that has all the chrome and writing already on it?
i assume it just unscrews and i can screw a new one in place over the dash and switches?
cheers

I'll weigh in here. You're on track by saying to get a new plating. By plating I assume you mean a new gauge cluster bezel. As mentioned '68 (and 68 only) had the ribbed design dash bezels (gauge cluster, radio and glove box). Best of the 2nd gens BTW. Anyway remove your cluster bezel (9 screws) and replace with a 68 bezel. You're going to need a 4 way flasher switch. It's positioned just right of the brake warning light. Hopefully the 68 dash harness is still there and not switched over with a 70 harness. Also if your radio bezel and glove box bezel are pebble grain, then you'll need the 68 ribbed ones to match your gauge cluster bezel. Might as well buy a whole new set if that's the case. If no A/C then you'll need the bezel set that includes the 2 end cap plates that are positioned where the AC vents would be IF it were AC.

And if you're going to get serious, eventually switch out the 70 buckets with 68 ones. You should be able to get at least even value if not more for the 70 seats to fund the 68 seats. If it were me, I would remove anything 70 related on your 68 and replace with 68 stuff.

Just my 2¢.

:cheers:

Thanks mate, yep knew i would have to get a flasher switch if i were to put it back to a 68, im not sure yet if ill put everything back to 68, dash, seats, console etc, the dash bezel im going to, the rest i may leave, it doesnt bother me too much, the seats.

i dont need a whole new dash do i? just the plating? like this?
Obv id get a 70 tho not a 68 like pictured. Picture just showing what id be buying. Really dont want to replace the whole dash, gauges, instrument, speedo, tach etc etc.

Maybe further down the line, but for now if i can just replace the dash plating, id be happy.


VegasCharger

Quote from: jefferson on April 10, 2020, 01:49:49 AM.....Obv id get a 70 tho not a 68 like pictured.....

I'm confused, you would get 70 bezels?? You already have 70 bezels. I thought you wanted to switch to 68??

:shruggy:

jefferson

Im saying,. i want my dash in my charger to look the same as my mates charger,
so i assume to do that i have to get a new plating to go over the dash so it has the lettering and chrome trim around the gauges.
Correct?

maybe down the line ill redo the entire thing/ car all back to 68 specs but for now im fine with it having 70 stuff in it,
Just want the dash to look right.

jefferson

Quote from: Nacho-RT74 on April 09, 2020, 12:16:31 PM
BTW not just a 70 cluster but also front buckets. Steering column seems to be 68/69 from the distance?¿?¿?¿? , what it means you don't have emergency flashers anywhere ?.

and you got a smaller clock because your car got a tic-toc-tach, while your mates is a regular clock.

and 68 consoles gets a ribbed surface and your one is smooth with woodgrain finish

hey mate correct, no emergency flashers on my car anywhere, not on the dash nor on the steering column, seems prior owner removed them for some reason, have no idea.
yep correct about the console also, knew this.

what is the difference in steering column on 68 from 70?

jefferson

Is a 70 steering column closer towards the dash, and a 68 is farther away?

68 being longer? 70 being shorter?

Nacho-RT74

Quote from: ACUDANUT on April 09, 2020, 08:29:20 PM
Quote from: jefferson on April 09, 2020, 07:46:00 PM
My key goes in the dash lol

Wonder why its been spray painted/ missing the chrome trim
Let alone why it has a 70 dash
:shruggy:

If your key goes into the dash, Then it's a 68-69 dash, Not a 70.
My 70 interior is all 68. Dash, seats, doors ect.
Nacho, my brother.. Hope all is well!!

well surviving to the lockdown fortunatelly in Spain, where even is true the situation is hard, we are not out of supplies os medical care if needed. If I was in Venezuela I won't be so nice. My family is still there thought!

Quote from: jefferson on April 10, 2020, 12:46:48 AM
Thanks fellas,
i assume i dont have to replace the whole dash and gauges, i can just replace the plating with a brand new one that has all the chrome and writing already on it?
i assume it just unscrews and i can screw a new one in place over the dash and switches?
cheers


you haven't be cleared enough to post the info... where is your ign switch? dash or column ? that would tell you what could be the best to proceed, thinking on as VegasCharger mentioned, what do you still have of the original 68 setup and get it back to 68 if you wish on the best way as posible. Is not just about a bezel, seats or console... its also wiring and dash configuration.

If you still have the ign key on dash it means you still have the original 68 underdash harness. Also it means you don't have hazzard function, which would mean is not just a bezel but also electrical parts.
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

DAY CLONA

Quote from: jefferson on April 10, 2020, 06:07:14 AM
Is a 70 steering column closer towards the dash, and a 68 is farther away?

68 being longer? 70 being shorter?




The 70 Charger has the ignition key on the column, the 68/69 Charger the key is on the lower dash, the 70 steering wheel base where it meets the column is larger in diameter for the standard steering wheel, and the 70 woodgrain steering wheel uses a black plastic adapter to fill the gap, where as the 68-69 steering wheel does not due to it's smaller base diameter

Nacho-RT74

Quote from: jefferson on April 10, 2020, 06:07:14 AM
Is a 70 steering column closer towards the dash, and a 68 is farther away?

68 being longer? 70 being shorter?


jus read this after my reply.

70 column is bigger diameter to fit the ign switch. On this year the turning switch also got the hazzard function built into the system

this came out from an E body, but the same for B body. Note the ign key on column and the knob close to it, for the hazzards



this makes a big diff on harness

here a full view on the 70 dash setup to show the ign switch location difference ( and hazzard knob also on column ). Woodgrain finish was standard on R/Ts and SEs as far I know for 70s while on 69s was Standard just on SEs. So this 70 must be either an R/T or and SE

Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

Nacho-RT74

Quote from: jefferson on April 10, 2020, 01:49:49 AM
Quote from: VegasCharger on April 10, 2020, 01:31:15 AM
Quote from: jefferson on April 10, 2020, 12:46:48 AM
Thanks fellas,
i assume i dont have to replace the whole dash and gauges, i can just replace the plating with a brand new one that has all the chrome and writing already on it?
i assume it just unscrews and i can screw a new one in place over the dash and switches?
cheers

I'll weigh in here. You're on track by saying to get a new plating. By plating I assume you mean a new gauge cluster bezel. As mentioned '68 (and 68 only) had the ribbed design dash bezels (gauge cluster, radio and glove box). Best of the 2nd gens BTW. Anyway remove your cluster bezel (9 screws) and replace with a 68 bezel. You're going to need a 4 way flasher switch. It's positioned just right of the brake warning light. Hopefully the 68 dash harness is still there and not switched over with a 70 harness. Also if your radio bezel and glove box bezel are pebble grain, then you'll need the 68 ribbed ones to match your gauge cluster bezel. Might as well buy a whole new set if that's the case. If no A/C then you'll need the bezel set that includes the 2 end cap plates that are positioned where the AC vents would be IF it were AC.

And if you're going to get serious, eventually switch out the 70 buckets with 68 ones. You should be able to get at least even value if not more for the 70 seats to fund the 68 seats. If it were me, I would remove anything 70 related on your 68 and replace with 68 stuff.

Just my 2¢.

:cheers:

Thanks mate, yep knew i would have to get a flasher switch if i were to put it back to a 68, im not sure yet if ill put everything back to 68, dash, seats, console etc, the dash bezel im going to, the rest i may leave, it doesnt bother me too much, the seats.

i dont need a whole new dash do i? just the plating? like this?
Obv id get a 70 tho not a 68 like pictured. Picture just showing what id be buying. Really dont want to replace the whole dash, gauges, instrument, speedo, tach etc etc.

Maybe further down the line, but for now if i can just replace the dash plating, id be happy.



I think you should need just the 4 ways flasher for 68/69 Rallye cluster and the correct bezel for 68. The plug for the switch must be still hanging around if the harness wasn't replaced or jacked out. I can't say if the cluster housing would need to be replaced or not, but I don't think 70s are diff from 68/69 on this... better minds on 2nd gens chargers around than me. Gauges ( Speedo, tachs etc ) are the same you actually have at this moment for all 2nd gens, so don't need to get worried about that.

I can't find it hard to get the correct cluster setup for a 68 as far harness remains safe. Is just about to get the parts but the job itself won't be hard. Mostly plug and play.

Buckets is at your prefference for correctness or not, but not necesary at this moment anyway. And I'd get also the correct ribbed top plate look for the 68 console ( which inludes the glove box lid ) to match the dash bezel for 68 and is also available around, new repro just like the cluster bezel and sure can be foun used too. That's my opinion. Mostly same opinion than VegasCharger
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

Nacho-RT74

BTW I can see your glove box knob release is on the correct 68/69 location. Note how is on the 70 pic I posted, so you still have most of the correct 68 setup of your car
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

Nacho-RT74

68 console and seats look... and thumbwheel radio for 68/69




as mentioned the A/C-Heater controls also are labeled diff between 68 with a bezel and 69/70 straight to the buttons

Dash pad itself also got a small difference between 68 and I think 69/70, being 68 a bit more sharpened V shaped. It seems your car still have those correct 68 parts anyway.
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

jefferson

Thanks a lot nacho

yes that looks exactly the same as my setup, besides the bucket seats and the style of dash,

the glovebox, ash tray, steering column is all 68 on my car
the glovebox opens upwards, 70 i believe it opens downwards. Mine opens upwards, my IGN switch is in the dash, not the steering column.
so i have 80 percent proper 68 on the inside lol. My only difference to that photo of the 68 you have posted is the seats and the dash. The other half of the dash is all 68 on mine.



jefferson

Anyone have an idea or thoughts as to why the previous owner, or the owner before him or whom ever, decided it was a good idea to completely spray paint over the chrome and lettering with stupid shitty black spray paint?
Ill ask that question first before i start asking as to why he also replaced the face plating and removed the flasher button and put a 70 in it, glad it still retains the other half,
ign on the dash not on the column
glovebox and ash tray correct.
steering column correct.

just blows my mind.

jefferson

Also,

are my gauges, oil, alt, speedo, tach, fuel, the original ones? the gauges are pretty faded, has a fair bit of wear and shows a fair amount of milage.
But it could have been pulled out of another 70 charger at some point in the past, am not sure. And its just the plating that has been put over the gauges that is from a 70?


Nacho-RT74

well I think you got the answer on how to proceed. If I was you would make the cluster/dash job to make the correct 68 look there. The hazzard switch plug must be still there hanging around, so it should be mostly a plug and play job just getting the parts.

Then the seats and console top... as you preffer. I would make at least the correct console top look, althought I like more the woodgrain finish.

gauges face fading, pretty much normal. Face decals are available to the resto job. Are they the original ones ? we don't know, and imposible to know being they are the same for all 2nd gens. If the cluster was changed as an unit, maybe the gauges itself are from the same 70 it came the rest of 70 parts. But actually, who cares now ? Cluster on back uses to get codes to the manufacturing date thought. This does mean also the gauges ? actually, no.
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

Nacho-RT74

looking at this 70 cluster on back, the provision for the hazzard switch is still there, so... is just about to get the hazzard switch and bezel, get it plugged ( it should be hanging around there yet ) and voilá... once again assuming wirning has not being cut or damaged around for it. It won't be important if the cluster is from the 70 donor, will be just the printed code date what will make the difference.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1970-Dodge-Charger-Road-Runner-GTX-Cluster-Mopar-Rallye-Instrument-Gauge-White-/273946336183

It even still has the provision for the rear deffog switch which on 68 is on cluster ( 69/70 got them at a side of the A/C control unit ). So just the bezel will make the difference

will need to get the 68 bezel setup with the cover for that hole of course ( the hole at a side of the speedo )

NOTE: I think hazzard switch is diff between Rallye cluster and standard cluster. NOT sure thought.

and... your cluster must still have the 68/69 headlight switch being your car got vacuum operated headlight doors while 70s are electrical
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html


HANDM

I'm probably in the minority here but for the chrome around my gauges I simply used a chrome paint pen from a hobby shop and re did my accents as they were pretty much worn off from 50 yrs of use and washing.
Turned out great and a better alternative to tearing out the cluster and panels to replace them.

And if you do decide to replace rather than using the pen, they are attached via screws from the backside of the cluster and dash so you'd have to remove them anyway. Not an easy job as the column has to be loosened and lowered to get the cluster out.

VegasCharger

Nacho pretty much sums it up. Get a 68 gauge cluster bezel so it has the cutout for the flasher switch. Also get a 68-69 flasher switch and hope the PO didn't mess up the plug (and just hanging there). Screw the new switch on the gauge housing, plug it in and test.

If you're not concerned with having 4 way flashers (I would be) you can leave it be. Or you can attempt to rig a toggle switch mounted within reach when sitting in the driver's seat to have flashers and avoiding switching out bezels.

And as for the lowering the steering column being a tough job, I disagree. Disconnect the battery, unbolt the 4 firewall bolts and unbolt the 2 collar bolts. Use a small jack stand placed on your foot well floorboard to position how low you need the column to drop. Place a cloth/towel on top of the jack stand to avoid scratching the paint on the column. Just my 2¢.

:cheers:


Nacho-RT74

yeap, that's why I search by pn and description and not just by description
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

darbgnik

His linked picture:


Brad

1970 Charger 500. Born a 318, AC, console auto, now 440/727
Build thread:  http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,127291.0.html

375instroke

Anyone mention that the foam pieces of the glove box, around the AC vents, and below the gauges, are hard plastic in '70?

Nacho-RT74

Nobody mentioned, but since he already mentioned ign switch is on dash and glovebox got the latch where it is, those details by itself states he still have the 68 pieces on his car, with the soft pads.
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

jefferson

Quote from: 375instroke on April 11, 2020, 03:20:40 AM
Anyone mention that the foam pieces of the glove box, around the AC vents, and below the gauges, are hard plastic in '70?

never realised this actually

but mine appear to be quite soft, while sitting in my mates 70 i did infact look at his and they looked hard
i assume that means mine are proper 68 then?

Nacho, does it appear then most of my stuff is still 68 correct? , ash tray, glovebox, all the small bits and pieces etc ?