73' Charger Toasted Fuse Block & Wires you have to see this ! Help !

[Nacho-RT74]

shouldn't be hard to find...

yes you can make one to any screw around the dash frame BUT the terminal is wider, so is not the regular Packard 56 size. Is really specific for it. The original wire in fact runs to a phillips screw to a J nut attached to dash frame close to emergency brake handle with serrated eyelet terminal. This ground wire also spreads to some other places around ( which I can't rememeber right now LOL )

Is one of these on pic attached... so should be together with the positive one and ammeter ones. There is not a lot of single spade terminals around Rallye cluster, just those ( and Radio or tach, but those run appart from the underdash harness )


And this is the standard cluster rear view, reason why you get the diff VL on 71/74s

[BMOTOXSTAR]

Nacho,
   The only other spade terminal with that size connector by the amp meter and bulbs  has 2 black wires ? I attached to the ground since it fits and did not show any current in run or start with the volt meter and idles fine with all accessories on. Gauges work perfect. The ground under the dash by the brake release is attached.

Hope this is the correct one, has to be I hope...

Still cant figure out floor shifter light that worked before....

[BMOTOXSTAR]

Nacho, 2 other questions....

1. Is the black wire (has +) on vol meter, go to  the e-brake?

2. What is this extension for that goes to harness? For the column lights from driver side...?

Once again...thank you mane.

[Nacho-RT74]

The black wire to VL ground ... prong on bracket is the wider so if it fits, that's it. No other plug/terminal will fit there because if is positive and you connect it will short out as soon you activate ign switch, so it was made like that wider prong to prevent a short. You can confirm it anyway just testing continuity with chassis. Yes, diagram shows a single wire with a trace I think, but I think that's not allways true LOL. Sometimes the splices are not exactly where its show. On diagram, but anywhere else where it coould be easier.

Yes, the bullet terminal wire is E brake. That is what could be lighting up your dash light being hanging around and getting in touch with chassis. Actually drives negative sourced by the switch on emergency brake bracket, but maybe can test positive with bulb in place and key in RUN? Don't worry, it won't short out. The short happens in bulb filament. Which is what the bulb is, a controled short.

That pigtail is for the lights on warning buzzer. The harness provides the slightly angled terminals plug to plug it there, while the 90* plug ( like flashers) goes to the buzzer.

Diagram shows HEADLAMP buzzer, but it actually activates with parking lights

[Nacho-RT74]

Aaaaaand the light for shifter... it plugs on an orange feed ( number 1 on pic ) around AC-HEATER control switch area



And the entire harness looks like this, running from side to side of dash having the packard plug extension on passenger side kick panel

[BMOTOXSTAR]

Nacho... Thank you ! You have been awesome with helping me on this.

Now I have one last problem, the horns stay on !  I have the Grant Reproduction Tuff Wheel. I have the black wire connected. I just don't want to unplug them...Even with the center cap off the steering wheel the horn stays engaged.

I am almost ready to take a test drive after I figure out these horns...


Thank you for posting the seat belt buzzer locations, etc. My Charger is missing all the Seat Belt relays and warning buzzers. I hope to get them all working correctly and find the correct pieces.


Is it bad to drive with the NSS disconnected, ground on chassis from relay until I get a new NSS harness? Could I burn any wiring?

[Nacho-RT74]

relays and buzzers are available on ebay

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-seat-belt-or-low-fuel-relay-for-1972-1973-Charger-Road-Runner-Challenger-et/143571735305?epid=1223811288&hash=item216d8ad309:g:R2oAAOSwOoVeh4mX

that's the cheaper one ( including shipping ) I found right now but there are several:

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=mopar+seatbelt+relay&_sacat=0&_sop=15

and buzzer

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-Mopar-1972-1973-Plymouth-Dodge-Chrysler-All-Seat-Belt-Warning-Buzzer-Switch/233338659029?epid=1037537883&hash=item36541160d5:g:8mQAAOSwk5FUxZgY

but the buzzer is pretty much generic piece for several brand cars ( Chebbbbby, Phords, AMCs... ) so maybe searching for another brand could be cheaper? dunno. Maybe at parts shops.

I have couple of those and couple of lights on buzzers ( not for B body, but except for the bracket shape they are all the same between 71/73 ), but they are at home in Vzla.


unplug turning switch to check if horn turns off... that would mean the problem is inside the column. It could be from the wire being smashed into the column by the brackets ( it happened me once with the key in buzzer switch ) and being grounded, up to some fail at horn switch assembly or turning switch stud for this function


Where do you have the NSS harness disconected ? just at starter relay or at Tranny ?

if you have it disconected at Tranny, you won't have Back up lamps either. If you have disconected at Starter relay, you simply will be able to crank up the engine at any gear. Not safe but won't hurt anything on car... except if you have a wall in front and try to start the engine in D LOL

Are you sure is the harness what is damaged and not the NSS itself ? or some linkage adjustment ?

[Nacho-RT74]

since I have been bored enough and I don't have life... I kept searching and found this

https://www.carid.com/lectric-limited/ignition-key-warning-buzzer-mpn-sbb7273.html

so it seems the original "Mopar" one is not so expensive

[BMOTOXSTAR]

Thank you Nacho. Yeah I am just hammering away at this electric. Has taken me a month but I am almost there with your help man.

I hope in a few hrs I have the horn & console light figured out.

New NSS in transmission. The plug on the NSS looks a little cooked & I have no back up lights.

NSS grounded at relay to brake master cylinder , not connected at relay, only jumper -

[BMOTOXSTAR]

Nacho my man....you are amazing ! She has never ran better in the 15 years I have owned her.

Amazing what correct electrical current can do !

I could not have done this without your help man.

Did a 60 mile ride in the desert at sunset with the lights on and accessories....not a single issue !

Nacho, this Tecate is for you ! This is what we drink here in the desert .

[AKcharger]

 

[Nacho-RT74]

Great everything came out great and you got satisfied!. Electricity gets the same importance than Fuel. If one of both fails you won't have fire into the hole. So I don't understand why everybody keeps making continuous patchs on the electrical systems, speciall after 40-50 years. While everybody have serviced their carburetor maybe 3 or 4 times on these 40 years ( maybe more ), the electricity never is checked and ever worst, is cut, spliced, patched!

dunno if you upgraded your alt or if still the stock one, but that will be the next upgrade your car will require, and will be even HAPPIER... you don't need to spend big money on them but just if you just want a resto upgraded piece. Personally I dream with the 100 amps tuff stuff 8509DP but I can spend $180-200 on an alt right now ( 130 amps are available now ). For a while I'm living with the stock 80s alts ( 78 amps ) which is still somehow stock look and able to feed around 40-45 while iddling with the small pulley. Their price uses to be on $60-80 rate.My goal is get an alt able to source around 60 amps iddling and the 100 amps tuff stuff is as far I recall over that. Stock 80s alt is couple of milimeters wider so for big block need to trim a bit the rear alt spacer and get a bit longer belt ( rear of alt meets the block on the BB setup ).   

OF COURSE... help the charging wiring with parallel paths to keep healthy the bulkhead and happier the battery.

[Nacho-RT74]

mmm here is one dirty cheap... just change the pulley and done

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1980-1986-Chrysler-Dodge-Plymouth-L-body-K-body-Mopar-1-7-2-2-78-amp-Alternator/202989823073?hash=item2f4322e461:g:8A0AAOSwqS9eu~QF

( trusting the 78 on red tab is indicating the alt output )

[Nacho-RT74]

I think this would be the pulley for it... It seems to be the small one

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1962-and-newer-Mopar-Dodge-Plymouth-Chrysler-Alternator-Pulley-2-Groove/124182960529?hash=item1ce9e19991:g:xNUAAOSwBIVdkUk0

[BMOTOXSTAR]

Nacho, last night I took a 10 miles cruise on the city streets to the local car cruise in.

Ran great even though the night heat in AZ was 100 degrees out. Ran nice and cool in stop and and go traffic.

10 miles in the drive and the ALT meter goes straight to C again. 

No resistance on the ALT meter terminals. The in line fuse I used as a precaution to the ALT meter with 20 AMP fuse was hot at the crimp connection. Fuse did not blow.

Car ran great with all accessories on the way home. Was hot out and did not overheat.

The engine bay does get very hot on this car. Could that cause the charging system to work extra harder ? I have a new alternator Nacho that I will post a pic of.

The battery is staying at 13. 13.5 volts running and has solid 13-14 after shut off.

No lights were dimming, ran smooth etc. Just that ALT is pegged again !

[BMOTOXSTAR]

Nacho, you may hate this question....if I just do a under dash   amp meter and bypass the ALT meter?

Just connect the modified ALT meter wire I made and connect to the other factory ALT wire that is still in use (other red one is isolated as you said to do since I did the mod)  and + from amp meter to them and ground? 

[Nacho-RT74]

ok, let's see... maybe the ammeter is giving a reading due some problem, so maybe bypass the alt just will hide the real problem. That would mean the ammeter IS NOT the problem

I don't understand where you put the in line fuse. A 20 amps fuse in line with ammeter wiring is practically a joke

do you have any accesory or upgrade ( such a headlight relays, fans or whatever ) sourced from batt terminal?

no grounds anywhere... ammeter doesn't work with ground just positive. Any related part to ammeter being grounded will cause a heavy short. The ammeter is juts a positive field bridge.

have you checked if the alternator brush to the green wire is being grounded ? the regulator sources negative/ground throught the green wire as the regulated field while the blue wire is constant positive from ign switch. I'm thinking on the green wire brush being grounded somehow, ALTHOUGHt that will relate more to voltage than amperage because you can't push in amperes if they are not being sucked in by some device, but could be something to check.

[BMOTOXSTAR]

I thought the in line fuse would help with extra protection? Get rid of that ?

The problem could be in the main engine harness that connects with the alt?  I re-checked all connections on bulhead from alternator?

Could that NSS wiring issue cause this? Thanks again man, hey at least she starts !

[BMOTOXSTAR]

No extra accessories at all. I did not even put the radio back in so I can reach up there to see ...

[Nacho-RT74]

NSS has nothing to do with this

if you have the parallel path for the black wire won't have any problem still having some problem at bulkhead with the original black wire.

I'm thinking on just two stages. Regulator failing OR green wire ( or related brush ) being grounded. Grounding green wire &/or related brush will full field the alt providing max alt output without need for that. But I still can't find the ammeter reading full charge if batt is charged.

you could check connections between ammeter and battery too ( this includes starter relay stud, and battery end ) , just in case. Tight and clean

a 20 amps in line fuse on charging system where the ammeter is able to handle +/- 40 amps and where discharged batt alt can maybe source up to 60 amps ( part to the batt if discharged and part to the car to its functions ) is not really helpfull. But I don't know where you exactly installed that one.

[BMOTOXSTAR]

Did all you just said...I found a crack in a wire from the headlight harness  by the brake booster wire holder tabs. Put tape on just for diagnose.
Best to cut and crimp with butt connector or use a dab of that liquid plastic wire repair stuff?

I then plugged and unplugged the green ALT connector .

The ALT meter is now perfect again. Must have been the wire with the crack on headlight harness...or the green ALT wire with clip. The starter wires are nice.

I put the fuse between the ALT meter and firewall driver side for easy access (also the fuse link at relay as that should be).

Now I know why that the fuse holder is hot from resistance. 
No other wires are hot...only the wires on the in-line fuse connector & the fuse ! The but connections are cold. So are the alt meter studs, lucky for that.

Man Nacho....I think i get it now. Continuous + flow in the wires....
I will ditch the in line fuse and just straight from alt meter to relay with fuse link.

[Nacho-RT74]

that wire on headlight harness shouldn't have anything to do with the charging system but better fix whatever you find. I guess is the cover what got cracked. liquid plastic should be enough as far copper inside is nice.

a fuse holder uses to be a weak point to hold a full load going throught.

I think everything is pointing out to the green wire or brush ( or brush holder assembly ) on alt.

Yes, the ammeter only handles +. Is just like a valved bridge to measure the electrons flow through it coming and going to/from batt. DC current is a constant electrons flow in one sense by the unbalance of the chemicals into the batt. The electron jumping to one side makes that side - charged atoms, while the place it left makes the particle + charged atoms. Thats what makes the + and - fields on DC. This was just an easy way to explain it.

While - field is going straight from alt to the batt via chassis, the + field is the one being measured. Electrons flow is proportional ( because same jumping electrons creating - field makes the + field ) so is enough and easier simply read the + lead which is the wired one. This electrons flow makes to move the needle initially balanced into a magnet system built into the ammeter. That's why in rest position, needle remains centered... with the counterweight into the magnetic field built into ammeter

[BMOTOXSTAR]

The way you just explained it I  finally understand !

I took that in-line fuse out & just did the 10ga with fuse link from ALT meter to relay.

Starts and sounds great. The ALT meter is working great...just a tad towards D with all accessories on !

I am going to still  check all wires on the engine harness by alternator.

You are awesome Nacho !

I seriously can't thank you enough ! If you ever make it to Arizona !

[Nacho-RT74]

I have being in Arizona in 2008 on my way to Carlisle from Bakersfield. I remember we stopped at Flagstaff, but can't recall where we stopped on the return trip. We took one interstate on the return trip but some road was closed for mantenience and had to go parallel to Colorado river up to another interstate.

Yes depending on the alt capacity with all accesories on is normal get a light discharge reading at iddlle. I guess when you give throttle after that it gets a small C reading for an instant untill get back to center again. Would be better the ammeter death centered as much as posible, but a small flickering is not dangerous. On my car with all lights on, Radio on, AC at mid speed still gets centered. Falls a bit into D stopped ( brakes on ) geared at a traffic lights. The bigger problem comes if rains since wipers sucks a lot too. Fortunatelly usually at nights, the low AC speed uses to be enough and that gives me a bit more reserve for the wipers ( acomplished with Transmission in N ). That's why I'm pointing out to a better capacity alt.

BTW, keep the chassis good grounded with batt also helps to the charging system! Meaning with this, radiator core support wire and provision nut, engine to batt wire, and the braidded wire between engine and firewall

[Nacho-RT74]

BTW, it could be not the green wire but the brush where is plugged, so is about check wire AND brush assembly. The brush and holder assembly could be grounding somehow, maybe screw loosen, maybe holder cracked. If so, you got luck you plugged the green field there because if you plug the blue wire, could cause a short, while grounding green just causes a full field source. Will make a draw about this later.