Do-it-yourself paint prep?

[rikubot]

Hi everyone. Just got my car back from some extensive body work to the unibody.

Brand new:

Quarters
Roof
Piece of trunk
Trunk drop downs
Rear valance
DS door jam
DS fenderwell

I paid a lot to have that done and I'm still not completely happy. I'll spare you the details.

My question: I have five layers of paint & primer on my hood, fenders, doors, cowel etc. what can I do with very little body work experience to help save some money? I have started stripping the doors with chemical stripper, sanding, and a razor (sucks). Any advice is much appreciated.

- Mike

[1970Moparmann]

If you aren't going to do blasting with beads or sand (low pressure), then chemical is one of the fastest ways.    Make sure you use protective gear for this!   It will eat through rubber gloves and the fumes are terrible.   You can also use the 3M paint removal discs.  It takes longer, but effective.   

[rikubot]

I haven't ruled out bead blasting for the fenders quite yet only because I wonder if it will cost about the same to do as the chemical stripper. I'm using a stripper by POR15 that's about $40/gallon and I think I'll probably end up need two just for the doors. I'm doing it outside so the fumes have been minimal but I found out the hard way that rubber gloves don't help much 

[1970Moparmann]

Here's the stuff I used $17.99-
https://www.autozone.com/paint-and-body/paint-remover-stripper-thinner/rust-oleum-aircraft-remover-paint/909921_0_0

The 3M Disks are-
https://www.amazon.com/3M-SandBlaster-9681-2-Inch-Clean-N-Strip/dp/B000BQURDI/ref=sr_1_6?dchild=1&keywords=3m+paint+remover+wheel&qid=1584886643&sr=8-6

Also, make sure you clean the metal well, after you do the chemical removal!

Here is also a great resource on "do it yourself" body work.  Spent many hours on this forum.

http://autobodystore.com/forum/index.php

[superbirdtom]

when u use chemical stripper let the chemicals do the work. if the paint does not come up just keep putting on the stripper and use a stiff wire brush and scrub and put on more stripper.   the orange  stripper nylock wheels are a hundred times better than the black 3m ones if ur going to use stripping wheels.   also  on large outer surfaces  a 8 inch flexible foam pad designed to put  36 grit stikit paper on a polishing machine works wonders and is very fast at cutting through 3 paint jobs and bondo.  i had an aircraft paint shop w 55 gallon drums of stripper through a graco - body shops used to bring me cars to strip. 

[rikubot]

Thanks for the advice guys. I don't have an air compressor so I can't run a DA. I have used those paint remover wheels before and if I remember correctly they work wonders. I might still have one laying around. With the stripper, razor, rough scotchbrite and a sand bar I've got most of the first door done. I'll probably move to the passenger side door next or change it up with the engine bay. I've got a little rust along the bottoms door lip. What do you guys suggest? It looks like it may need a little blasting...

Also, I found a local media blaster who runs a mobile operation. Has anyone had any experience with pricing? Considering doing fenders and hood.

- Mike

[CDN72SE]

I did the engine bay, body and interior with a 3M Paint and Rust stripper. You can see it on the drill.


I got lazy with the doors and stripped as much as I could the same way and then used a little Eastwood jug to soda blast the more intricate parts of the inner door panels.

Used heat and a scraper for the inner fenders, worked well. Came in to some money and got both fenders dipped for $300 Canadian

[rikubot]

Next time I make my way to Lowe's I'm gonna get a couple of those 3M wheels. I've heard that heat and a puffy knife work well on undercoating. The heat doesn't try to warp the metal? Your car is looking good. Is that a third gen roadrunner?

[rikubot]

I went to clean the door latch with oven cleaner and carb cleaner and started to realize that it didn't have much zinc plating left. I'm afraid it will rust, what have you guys done with these? (I'm guessing NOT strip the zinc in the first place)

[armor64]

I know its not the same as a air DA, but i've been using 2 electric cheap DA Sanders from Canadian Tire (they were on clearance for 15$) and so far have both doors cut down through 4 paint and primer layers, without the compressor.

[keepat]

I went to clean the door latch with oven cleaner and carb cleaner and started to realize that it didn't have much zinc plating left. I'm afraid it will rust, what have you guys done with these? (I'm guessing NOT strip the zinc in the first place)

I had Stephen Fournier with S.F restoration automobile re-plate all of my door latches.

https://www.facebook.com/495913940789909/posts/533595293688440?d=n&sfns=mo

[CDN72SE]

Next time I make my way to Lowe's I'm gonna get a couple of those 3M wheels. I've heard that heat and a puffy knife work well on undercoating. The heat doesn't try to warp the metal? Your car is looking good. Is that a third gen roadrunner?

No metal warp and it was actually pretty quick. Close 3rd gen Charger.

[DanielRobert]

If you use paint stripper, don't worry about using until it's completely bare metal. Hard to do and you'll go through too much product. What it does do though, is make it easy to sand off with an orbital sander after you've removed most of the paint. It kinda dries up the base paint and it sands off easily.
Please buy a compressor with your next windfall of money. Hard to do bodywork without it. An air file is a great tool for flattening bodywork.

[5wndwcpe]

I went to clean the door latch with oven cleaner and carb cleaner and started to realize that it didn't have much zinc plating left. I'm afraid it will rust, what have you guys done with these? (I'm guessing NOT strip the zinc in the first place)

I had Stephen Fournier with S.F restoration automobile re-plate all of my door latches.

https://www.facebook.com/495913940789909/posts/533595293688440?d=n&sfns=mo

x2 on Stephan's work.

[rikubot]

I know its not the same as a air DA, but i've been using 2 electric cheap DA Sanders from Canadian Tire (they were on clearance for 15$) and so far have both doors cut down through 4 paint and primer layers, without the compressor.

I've considered grabbing one of those. I'll keep an eye out for a good one at the flea market.

[rikubot]

I went to clean the door latch with oven cleaner and carb cleaner and started to realize that it didn't have much zinc plating left. I'm afraid it will rust, what have you guys done with these? (I'm guessing NOT strip the zinc in the first place)

I had Stephen Fournier with S.F restoration automobile re-plate all of my door latches.

https://www.facebook.com/495913940789909/posts/533595293688440?d=n&sfns=mo

x2 on Stephan's work.

I looked at his page and it looks like he does nice work. He did some stuff for this "Bullitt" build ive been following. How are his prices?

[rikubot]

Next time I make my way to Lowe's I'm gonna get a couple of those 3M wheels. I've heard that heat and a puffy knife work well on undercoating. The heat doesn't try to warp the metal? Your car is looking good. Is that a third gen roadrunner?

No metal warp and it was actually pretty quick. Close 3rd gen Charger.

My Lanta she's pretty! Great job with that one!

[rikubot]

If you use paint stripper, don't worry about using until it's completely bare metal. Hard to do and you'll go through too much product. What it does do though, is make it easy to sand off with an orbital sander after you've removed most of the paint. It kinda dries up the base paint and it sands off easily.
Please buy a compressor with your next windfall of money. Hard to do bodywork without it. An air file is a great tool for flattening bodywork.

I've been wanting one for a loooong time. What size unit would be able to run air tools? I don't know if I can handle the level of body work that would need an air file. That might be when I call in the big guns.

[rikubot]

Got most of the passenger side outer door done today. It was in pretty good shape except for some pinholes near the bottom which I assume came from the inner door crevice.

[CDN72SE]

Looking good. 

[Dano 1]

3m Bristle Discs also work great for stripping paint without being super aggressive and heavily scuffing the base sheetmetal or introducing a ton of heat. There are versions for 4-1/2" angle grinders as well as roloc style for air die grinders in a few different grits, the 2" roloc versions work great for getting into tight, irregular areas. They're not the cheapest but they do work great.



4-1/2"
https://www.amazon.com/3M-Abrasive-048011-24241-Scotch-Brite-Bristle/dp/B01BH7HEE4/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=3m+bristle+disc&qid=1585244579&sr=8-7

2" Roloc
https://www.amazon.com/3M-3M-18730-Roloc-Bristle-Grade/dp/B01E612L3M/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=3m+bristle+disc&qid=1585244661&sr=8-5

[5wndwcpe]

I went to clean the door latch with oven cleaner and carb cleaner and started to realize that it didn't have much zinc plating left. I'm afraid it will rust, what have you guys done with these? (I'm guessing NOT strip the zinc in the first place)

I had Stephen Fournier with S.F restoration automobile re-plate all of my door latches.

https://www.facebook.com/495913940789909/posts/533595293688440?d=n&sfns=mo

x2 on Stephan's work.

I looked at his page and it looks like he does nice work. He did some stuff for this "Bullitt" build ive been following. How are his prices?

I would say he's fair with his prices, though I would not consider any quality work to be cheap these days.  Shipping to Canada can hurt a bit though.

[DanielRobert]

If you use paint stripper, don't worry about using until it's completely bare metal. Hard to do and you'll go through too much product. What it does do though, is make it easy to sand off with an orbital sander after you've removed most of the paint. It kinda dries up the base paint and it sands off easily.
Please buy a compressor with your next windfall of money. Hard to do bodywork without it. An air file is a great tool for flattening bodywork.

I've been wanting one for a loooong time. What size unit would be able to run air tools? I don't know if I can handle the level of body work that would need an air file. That might be when I call in the big guns.

Thats the beauty of an air file....you make it do the work. Not your arms. For a compressor , you'll want one that runs on 220 that'll hold 80 psi while under load. Your air tools will have a cfm rating which you'll want the compressor to be able to produce.

[rikubot]

Looking good. 

Thank ya!

[rikubot]

Thanks for the links Dano, I think I will need to get a hold of some for the fenders and hood.

Damn. I will have to have a 220 outlet installed in the garage. I figured I would need a pretty beefy compressor to run anything worth a damn.

I didn't even notice he was located in Canada. I might look into other options. The zinc plating looks a little too gold for my tastes. Galvanized would be a good look, in my opinion.

[rikubot]

Quick question:

Does $175 do media blast a hood sound reasonable? I got a quote from the local mobile media blast guy.

The top doesn't look like too much of a pain in the butt, but the bottom seams miserable.

[b5blue]

I worry about warping but that price is better than around me. I used one of these and it was a game changer: https://www.harborfreight.com/7-in-10-Amp-Variable-Speed-Polisher-62861.html

[jerry]

4''grinder with wire wheel. when done, DA  with 80 grit then epoxy. then fix the rust and or body work.  everything else is a waste of time and money.