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'69 Charger headlight vacuum?

Started by uskatebetter, May 16, 2006, 09:54:53 PM

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uskatebetter

alright well ive got a 69 charger and the headlight vacuum (kinda looks like a regular tin can) is rusted with a huge hole in it and i was just wondering if there was anywhere that i could buy a new one?

thanks.

Shakey

You can use a tin can of the same size.  I found a tomato juice can that was only 1mm - 2mm taller.  Then use your valve from you old one.

mikepmcs

46 oz dole pineapple  juice can is the same size and as shakey said, use your old valve, cut a hole in the top with a forstner bit but make sure it's not centered or it will not fit correctly under the battery.  ask me how i know that, but i stuffed it in there just the same and make sure you use a strong glue like jb weld or something and really scuff the top so it adheres well with the valve. ask me how i know theat, yup pulled my valve right off 2 nights ago while trying to get the hose off.

another thing you can do is bypass the can altogether for now and just connect(tee) the 2 lines that originally go into the can.  you just won't be able to open and close your lights without the car on.

but if you have to have a new one, they are on ebay every now and then anywhere from 50-100+

and someone is repopping them for $125 but can't remember who right now.  my dole can cost $2.29 and worked just fine until i pulled a little too hard on the vac hose, my own fault cause my temper got the best of me.  i've got em teed together right now cause i'm just gonna get another can today and drill the offset hole this time to make it fit right.

good luck
v/r
Mike
Life isn't Father Knows Best anymore, it's a kick in the face on a saturday night with a steel toed grip kodiak work boot and a trip to the hospital all bloodied and bashed.....for reconstructive surgery. But, what doesn't kill us, makes us stronger, right?

mikepmcs

found the site for the repop but it's not correct ribbing either and they want $125.  i need to master this one and under cut them by about 50 bucks.  just don't know where i'd find that valve though, hmmmm, off to the parts and auto stores to see if i can figure something out.

anyway here is their's
http://www.dayclona.com/view_item.aspx?page=4&id=51
Life isn't Father Knows Best anymore, it's a kick in the face on a saturday night with a steel toed grip kodiak work boot and a trip to the hospital all bloodied and bashed.....for reconstructive surgery. But, what doesn't kill us, makes us stronger, right?

Shakey

Quote from: mikepmcs on May 17, 2006, 08:13:03 AM
found the site for the repop but it's not correct ribbing either and they want $125.  i need to master this one and under cut them by about 50 bucks.  just don't know where i'd find that valve though, hmmmm, off to the parts and auto stores to see if i can figure something out.

anyway here is their's
http://www.dayclona.com/view_item.aspx?page=4&id=51

Brad's NOS in SC carries the valves.  It is either $15.00 or $50.00 USD.

cobradriver

wait....i thought you head light doors would not open or close with out the car on?....my headlight doors only open and close while the car is running....if this indicates a vacume leak would that make my engine run rough?...so much to learn about these cars...lol...

mikepmcs

Quote from: cobradriver on May 17, 2006, 08:27:03 PM
wait....i thought you head light doors would not open or close with out the car on?....my headlight doors only open and close while the car is running....if this indicates a vacume leak would that make my engine run rough?...so much to learn about these cars...lol...

ABSOLUTELY as it is connected to the tee in the back of the manifold
Life isn't Father Knows Best anymore, it's a kick in the face on a saturday night with a steel toed grip kodiak work boot and a trip to the hospital all bloodied and bashed.....for reconstructive surgery. But, what doesn't kill us, makes us stronger, right?

cobradriver

so the doors should open and close even when car is off?....

mikepmcs

that is what that canister is for. to hold vacuum to open and close the doors about one time(give or take) when the car is off. otherwise they would have just direct connected(shameless mopar plug) at the factory.  hook a vac gauge up right now as it sits, then connect(tee the two lines) and read your vac gauge again , you might see a noticeable difference. me on the other hand i can't get above 8 in HG vac, another story all together.
oh yeah, don't forget your headlight switch has vac ports on it too and they can cause a problem.  i still can't hold vacuum even with the lines teed off but it's a slow bleed and i can live with that.
v/r
Mike
Life isn't Father Knows Best anymore, it's a kick in the face on a saturday night with a steel toed grip kodiak work boot and a trip to the hospital all bloodied and bashed.....for reconstructive surgery. But, what doesn't kill us, makes us stronger, right?

Animal

I have to keep cutting the vac lines back @ the little tees,cos they keep on splitting. :flame:Have'nt seen these made anywhere.I do have new front light harness with vac lines.Most vac leaks are down to letby through non return valve on vac cannister.
Adam

69chargeryeehaa



69chargeryeehaa


Rolling_Thunder

also guys keep in mind that theres only so much vaccume in the can...   open the headlights and close them witht the engine off and it is pretty much gone and will no longer open.
1968 Dodge Charger - 6.1L Hemi / 6-speed / 3.55 Sure Grip

2013 Dodge Challenger R/T - 5.7L Hemi / 6-speed / 3.73 Limited Slip

1964 Dodge Polara 500 - 440 / 4-speed / 3.91 Sure Grip

1973 Dodge Challenger Rallye - 340 / A-518 / 3.23 Sure Grip