Aluminum heads ?

[b5blue]

Yes that's what I did. Aluminum heads move heat faster allowing higher compression. (Or like lowering compression from 12 to 11.) The 6 to 1 rockers add lift to the cam as factory is 5 to 1. (Also) 

[c00nhunterjoe]

Still dont know enough without a tear down to know what gasket you have. I ran 93 blowing 200 psi on my 383 at 3000 ft, but i had good quench and closed chamber iron heads. You do not have that advantage. I disagree with the 150 psi as max on pump gas, but i can agree that 150 is a safe number for a failsafe against a rookie tuner. That is a whole seperate topic.
    Given the current information on hand about the build, and the lack of teardown being on the table, i see 2 options IF detonation is an issue on your current combination as we havnt yet heard why the topic has come up. You stated that the previous owner ran 93 in it??? That said. Race fuel, or a cam profile that lowers the dynamic compression ratio to the desired level.

[BSB67]

So what is the thickest gasket that can be used because I would rather not by aluminum heads I am on damage control now.

you need alum heads In my opinion.

Probably Right.  Its going to take more than a head gasket to get down to 160, IMO.  What gasket do you have know?

The engine was complete when I got it, I just bolted stuff to it. As I said I was planning to run it on E-85 so I didn't think compression was an issue but that was 7 years ago and life has changed.    So it comes down to pistons  right ?   CAN aluminum heads compensate for the compression if thats the issue ?

I'm confused.  I think I've answered your question twice, maybe three times.

[Highbanked Hauler]

So what is the thickest gasket that can be used because I would rather not by aluminum heads I am on damage control now.

you need alum heads In my opinion.

Probably Right.  Its going to take more than a head gasket to get down to 160, IMO.  What gasket do you have know?

The engine was complete when I got it, I just bolted stuff to it. As I said I was planning to run it on E-85 so I didn't think compression was an issue but that was 7 years ago and life has changed.    So it comes down to pistons  right ?   CAN aluminum heads compensate for the compression if thats the issue ?

I'm confused.  I think I've answered your question twice, maybe three times.

Sorry just a little brain dead here with so many answers, thanks again.

[Challenger340]

OK so you have a fairly consistent 180/185 psi after 4 bumps on the Compression Tester
* do you know what Cam is in the Engine ?
* Do you know what Head Casting # is currently on the Engine ? This one is important if you can get the number off the Head
* do you know what Head Gasket is currently being used on the above Heads ?

Hang in there... try to answer a few more questions and we can give you some good advice ok ?

And for clarification,
you can run more than 150 psi.... I was only indicating 150 psi as very "safe" for a  FULL TIMING Curve(36* Total) at sea level with the HUGE .090" to .100" Quench.

[c00nhunterjoe]

OK so you have a fairly consistent 180/185 psi after 4 bumps on the Compression Tester
* do you know what Cam is in the Engine ?
* Do you know what Head Casting # is currently on the Engine ? This one is important if you can get the number off the Head
* do you know what Head Gasket is currently being used on the above Heads ?

Hang in there... try to answer a few more questions and we can give you some good advice ok ?

And for clarification,
you can run more than 150 psi.... I was only indicating 150 psi as very "safe" for a  FULL TIMING Curve(36* Total) at sea level with the HUGE .090" to .100" Quench.

He had stated prior its an xe284h10 with no clue on head gaskets as engine came assembled, hasnt posted heads.
Im still waiting on why the question about changing compression has come up. In another thread it has been stated that the orginal owner ran it on pump gas and the way i understand it, it has not been run since he has purchased it? What is the actual problem with the engine at this point in time. So far it sounds like an old school 10:1 mill with a mild cam.

Agreed on quench clarification.

[BSB67]

I guess I better understand the OP's confusion.

To the guys asking all of the questions; why?   The OP wants to know if and how he can run pump gas.  

First - Even with the limited imperfect information we have, does anyone really think that he cannot get this thing to run on pump gas with a aluminum heads?  Yes or no?  The question is simply "can he do it", not exactly what 20 part he must have.

Second - There is no information he can get now that will allow us to know if he can get this motor to work with his iron heads.  Although the evidence suggest to me no way.  No matter what head casting number, you still won't have enough information.  (Have the heads been milled?  has the block been decked, what head gasket thickness...?)

So here is the logical order of things at this point:

Step 1) Because he can get to pump gas operation with aluminum heads, we know the worst case solution.  Therefore remove the heads.
Step 2) Measure the head, compression distance, and gasket thickness.
Step 3) With that accurate information, decide if you can make these heads work
Step 4) If not, with this same information, evaluate which aluminum head, and which gasket will be best for him
Step 5) Put it back together and go have fun.

There are other options, like mill the piston dome, or put in a stupid large cam.  But pulling apart the motor to mill these pistons is dumb money considering the result, and a big azz cam is unlikely the OP cup of tea, or he certainly has not indicated it.  Then we can talk about gears and torque converters.

[Highbanked Hauler]

     Redid the TDC timing check and the line on the damper was almost 2 in. before TDC 0 mark. I kept retarding the timing to where it starts OK with the compression and can't see where the line is.
 The POS battery was the starting problem.  With a new battery it fired up in about 5 or 6 seconds !!!

   Any reason why the timing line is so far advanced ? Thanks.

[Highbanked Hauler]

    Redid the TDC timing check and the line on the damper was almost 2 in. before TDC 0 mark. I kept retarding the timing to where it starts OK with the compression and can't see where the line is.
 The POS battery was the starting problem.  With a new battery it fired up in about 5 or 6 seconds !!!

   Any reason why the timing line is so far advanced ? Thanks.

updated

[c00nhunterjoe]

    Redid the TDC timing check and the line on the damper was almost 2 in. before TDC 0 mark. I kept retarding the timing to where it starts OK with the compression and can't see where the line is.
 The POS battery was the starting problem.  With a new battery it fired up in about 5 or 6 seconds !!!

   Any reason why the timing line is so far advanced ? Thanks.

updated

Im not following the procedure you used here, but i think you are describing a spun balancer?

[Highbanked Hauler]

 With a ratchet rolled the engine over till the valves closed on No. 1 and threaded in a tdc stop and turned the motor till the piston hit the stop.  Dist. rotor was on the no. one wire.

What can be done with a spun balancer ?

[c00nhunterjoe]

Nothing, you replace it. The rubber is shot and allowed it to turn on the shaft

[Bronzedodge]

There are services that will replace the rubber ring.

https://damperdoctor.com/index.php?route=common/home

Only open 75% of the year....http://www.hbrepair.com/


There's others out there...