Can you run the smaller A/C water pump pulley without A/C ?

[c00nhunterjoe]

Is "bwahahahahaa" the long form of LOL? 

It like the super caps lol for me.

[c00nhunterjoe]

I could really throw a wrench in the mix cause i dont have a pulley or belt on mine.

My friend's experience that prompted the clear sight tube was on an electric pump installation.

What gph pump? What was the initial issue that prompted a clear tube? Excessive water flow and then a restrictor plate that resulted in cavitation bubbles? I am honestly curious to hear the whole story.

[superbirdtom]

Just saw this thread-- and to the initial subject  I can say this the speed of your water pump going around has to be correct -if it is too slow the water will not be pushed through fast enough if it goes around too fast it will not stay in the block long enough to pick up the heat.    this all changes with outside temperature and altitude. 
i had just put on a set of march pulleys before an epic trip from Alaska to Hot August nights in Reno.  made it to Reno with no problems but then In traffic the 440 would overheat.  I had a huge electric fan installed plus my clutch fan and on the freeway it cooled right down.   I finally left the next day as no one could figure it out. I then went to my mopar mechanic friend and he said well your crank pulley is too small.   the idiots at march sent me a drag race crank pulley.  I changed it out and never a problem.    It did also have to do w altitude as back in Seattle i could idle around in traffic and no problems. 

[c00nhunterjoe]

Just saw this thread-- and to the initial subject  I can say this the speed of your water pump going around has to be correct -if it is too slow the water will not be pushed through fast enough if it goes around too fast it will not stay in the block long enough to pick up the heat.    this all changes with outside temperature and altitude.  
i had just put on a set of march pulleys before an epic trip from Alaska to Hot August nights in Reno.  made it to Reno with no problems but then In traffic the 440 would overheat.  I had a huge electric fan installed plus my clutch fan and on the freeway it cooled right down.   I finally left the next day as no one could figure it out. I then went to my mopar mechanic friend and he said well your crank pulley is too small.   the idiots at march sent me a drag race crank pulley.  I changed it out and never a problem.    It did also have to do w altitude as back in Seattle i could idle around in traffic and no problems.  

Did you return to the climated areas that the overheating was occurring? How did you test the repair as you said it never overheated in your normal driving areas in traffic? I have not personally seen the march pulley setups. What is the diameter of the 2 crank pulleys that you used? On the drag race pulley, did you try increasing your rpm at idle to say, 1500 to make it cool down? Based on the said repair, it should have cooled right down. Agreed on the other factors involved.

[John_Kunkel]

I could really throw a wrench in the mix cause i dont have a pulley or belt on mine.

My friend's experience that prompted the clear sight tube was on an electric pump installation.

What gph pump? What was the initial issue that prompted a clear tube? Excessive water flow and then a restrictor plate that resulted in cavitation bubbles? I am honestly curious to hear the whole story.

Drag only car, big Hemi, old class rules required cooling system, passenger seat, etc. Small radiator to comply with rules, no idea of pump gph. Most of us in the same category used a cheapo Jabsco pump with garden hose fittings but subject car had a larger generic pump of unknown origin. Pumps were used mostly for cooling off between rounds (no fans, just radiant cooling). Subject car would not cool off like most others.

One of our Mopar group was a hydraulic engineer employed by the California Department of Water Resources, he suggested the sight glass to check for possible cavitation. Had breakfast with the friend Saturday and he corrected my memory...the sight glass was placed on the inlet side of the pump, not the outlet.

The theory behind the phenomenon is that the pump is pulling so hard on the hot water that it causes the water to vaporize  (turn to steam) with the accompanying cavitation; manipulating outflow of the pump with a restrictor stopped the cavitation and increased the cooling.

As an aside, this hydraulic engineer schooled me on the workings of automatic transmissions that was always a mystery to me. I could take 'em apart and fix 'em but wasn't savvy how they worked.

[b5blue]

Is "bwahahahahaa" the long form of LOL? 

It like the super caps lol for me.

(not "Bawana" from Tarzan movies.)

[c00nhunterjoe]

I could really throw a wrench in the mix cause i dont have a pulley or belt on mine.

My friend's experience that prompted the clear sight tube was on an electric pump installation.

What gph pump? What was the initial issue that prompted a clear tube? Excessive water flow and then a restrictor plate that resulted in cavitation bubbles? I am honestly curious to hear the whole story.

Drag only car, big Hemi, old class rules required cooling system, passenger seat, etc. Small radiator to comply with rules, no idea of pump gph. Most of us in the same category used a cheapo Jabsco pump with garden hose fittings but subject car had a larger generic pump of unknown origin. Pumps were used mostly for cooling off between rounds (no fans, just radiant cooling). Subject car would not cool off like most others.

One of our Mopar group was a hydraulic engineer employed by the California Department of Water Resources, he suggested the sight glass to check for possible cavitation. Had breakfast with the friend Saturday and he corrected my memory...the sight glass was placed on the inlet side of the pump, not the outlet.

The theory behind the phenomenon is that the pump is pulling so hard on the hot water that it causes the water to vaporize  (turn to steam) with the accompanying cavitation; manipulating outflow of the pump with a restrictor stopped the cavitation and increased the cooling.

As an aside, this hydraulic engineer schooled me on the workings of automatic transmissions that was always a mystery to me. I could take 'em apart and fix 'em but wasn't savvy how they worked.

i can see that being a major issue in that setup. Stockers usually go for the smallest of everything just to comply with the rules as you said. Tiny radiator and a huge pump is a recipe for disaster. I would imagine that hemi block was at least a partial fill? Or was she right up to the lower pump holes?

[superbirdtom]

Just saw this thread-- and to the initial subject  I can say this the speed of your water pump going around has to be correct -if it is too slow the water will not be pushed through fast enough if it goes around too fast it will not stay in the block long enough to pick up the heat.    this all changes with outside temperature and altitude.  
i had just put on a set of march pulleys before an epic trip from Alaska to Hot August nights in Reno.  made it to Reno with no problems but then In traffic the 440 would overheat.  I had a huge electric fan installed plus my clutch fan and on the freeway it cooled right down.   I finally left the next day as no one could figure it out. I then went to my mopar mechanic friend and he said well your crank pulley is too small.   the idiots at march sent me a drag race crank pulley.  I changed it out and never a problem.    It did also have to do w altitude as back in Seattle i could idle around in traffic and no problems.  

Did you return to the climated areas that the overheating was occurring? How did you test the repair as you said it never overheated in your normal driving areas in traffic? I have not personally seen the march pulley setups. What is the diameter of the 2 crank pulleys that you used? On the drag race pulley, did you try increasing your rpm at idle to say, 1500 to make it cool down? Based on the said repair, it should have cooled right down. Agreed on the other factors involved.

  I had a stock 440 setup w factory alternator -water pump- and crank pulleys..  down in lower altitudes like in seattle traffic or on the freeway i had no problems at all   -it was only when i started up the mountains to 5000 ft above sea level i started to overheat in stop an go traffic. I took my car to a shop in reno and they made sure everything in my cooling system was in good shape and dont forget this is cooled right down when getting up to 40 mph and above the gauge cooled right down.  the problem was the blasted tiny drag race crank  pulley it was half the size of my stock one.  I don't even know why i did the pulley swap.   I just want ppl to know what a big difference pulley size makes along with the altitude which has a lot to do with the boiling point of water. water boils at a lower temperature in higher altitudes.  so both things were in play.