News:

It appears that the upgrade forces a login and many, many of you have forgotten your passwords and didn't set up any reminders. Contact me directly through helpmelogin@dodgecharger.com and I'll help sort it out.

Main Menu

moving right along......

Started by 69 OUR/TEA, April 03, 2006, 08:27:38 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

69 OUR/TEA

    Painted the door jamb pillars and outer and inner frame rails today.Originally did not want to remove the fenders as they have never been off this car until now,as to not disturb the factory undercoating on the splash shields that bury the bolts to remove.This is a factory undercoating car,and having all its original panels,the underneath of the car is beautiful along with the undercoating and in the front wheel wells.I know alot of people like seeing painted undersides,and I do to,but I also very much like originality,and by leaving as I choose to do,it does'nt get any more original than that.This is how it was delivered.From other replys that you might have read,I have been doing body and paint for about 18 years,and have always used PPG.A very good friend of mine also in the hobby as well as a body and paint person,became a rep for PPG.This was excellent because it expanded my horizon of knowledge of painting.I must say,I have learned quite a bit more.So what you see that I am applying is PPG DBC basecoat and PPG's higher line of clearcoat, GLOBAL 893.This is actually a speed clear,which is perfect for doing these types of areas because it gets out of dust fast.For the outside of the car I will be using GLOBAL 894.The paint code for 69 B5 blue in DBC is 2019 if anyone wanted to know.I painted it like this in this sequence for this reason.You can get the whole door jamb area very nice,and have paint between the fender and cowl.By doing the inner and outer frame rail also now,when you put the fender back on,you are not running in and out of the engine bay,and because the fenders are on,you are painting the fender bolts that would get destroyed trying to put them back on at a later time.The only thing is to completely cover this freshly painted area to not get overspray on it.So far the whole inside of the car is painted,firewall and all,the inside of trunk is done,along with the under side of trunk lid.After this I will paint the inside of fenders,mount them back on,then do the jambs on the doors,and put them back on also.The engine bay will be done with the car in the booth,along with the door jambs themself,and trunk jamb to not have overspray and tape lines.Here are some pics.

bill440rt

WOW!! Looks great!  :yesnod:

I remember doing my '70 in a very similar fashion. The whole car was apart & I did it in sections too, to avoid the overspray & tape lines. I shot it with PPG also, back then we were using the Concept 2020 clear.
I'm doing a '69 now, & plan on using PPG again. I haven't sprayed PPG in a while, the last time I sprayed a car was with the 2020 clear. That's no longer around. How is the Global 894 in comparison? I also heard PPG now has a 2021 clear?? Is the Global 893 similar to DuPont's Chromaclear Super Productive?
I plan on shooting the car Sublime Green. I'll do the door jambs, inside of the trunk, underhood, undercarriage, etc. I was going to let that dry for a week or so (I won't be able to bake this), and then use the sprayable masking material out of a spray gun on these areas to protect from overspray. That way, there will be way less masking to worry about. I'll still have to do a lot, but not cover every sqaure inch. I then can do all my sanding & polishing, make a mess, & then hose everything off. The sprayable mask just turns into a soapy-type substance & washes right off. No overspray left.
Just thought I'd give you a tip in case your're worried about overspray.
Good Luck!
"Strive for perfection in everything. Take the best that exists and make it better. If it doesn't exist, create it. Accept nothing nearly right or good enough." Sir Henry Rolls Royce

69 OUR/TEA

Hello bill440rt,2020 is now an old clear,2021 has been around for a while now also.Global 894 is 2021,this is the difference,2021 is mixed 4:1:1      894 is mixed 3:1:1  .When you mix 2021  3:1:1  it is the same as 894.894 was basically made for the high end imports that have a flatter paint job,to achieve this ,you are adding more reducer and more hardner which will allow the paint to flow out nicer.When I painted my Coronet I used 2021 but mixed it 3:1:1 ,it worked excellent,and was not done in a booth.I use the spray mask you had mentioned,but you should not use it on fresh paint that will be in a bake booth.I use it only on cured paint,I had an incident where we spray masked something painted that day,to paint an adjacent part,baked it,and it put burn marks like little water spots on the fresh paint.I will fully cover and tape what I do not want overspray on.This is what also is nice about leaving the splash shields out,cause you can go thru the fender to tape up the hinge area.If you go to WANNA BEE thread in general discussion I posted a little info and some pics of my Coronet,it has been painted for about 6 years now.

69 OUR/TEA

Also 893 is the same as 2042,which is a fast clear.

Silver R/T

nice job. PPG is best paing IMO
http://www.cardomain.com/id/mitmaks

1968 silver/black/red striped R/T
My Charger is hybrid, it runs on gas and on tears of ricers
2001 Ram 2500 CTD
1993 Mazda MX-3 GS SE
1995 Ford Cobra SVT#2722

4402tuff4u

Nice job!! Love that color too! Keep posting upgrades. :yesnod:
"Mother should I trust the government?........... Pink Floyd "Mother"

69 OUR/TEA

Painted the inside of fenders,lightly sanded down the brace area,not putting alot of pressure against the skin as the outside bodywork is all done,then prepsoled the whole inside of fender,used black epoxy first,also to recolor the factory undercoating,then used a blue sealer where there is basecoat,based and then cleared.I was fortunate these were rust free,it made it easy to do.My floors and trunk were also rust free,so the underside of the car still had all the original undercoating,and was in perfect shape and will be getting a thin coat of black epoxy to look correct,as it was when new!If people like restoring to concourse,well here it is,it was never removed.Can't get any more correct than that.As I write this the fenders are already back on the car,and I am now painting the inside of the doors,and will be hanging them back on this weekend.

69 OUR/TEA

Fenders and doors back on,and lined up better than factory!!!!!! The gaps came out better than I expected,before I removed the doors and fenders,the drivers side inner splash shield was installed to far out and was holding the fender from going in closer to the body,and with this the fender did not line up with the door very well,now it is mint!!!! I painted the door jamb as follows: epoxy primer,then PPG GLOBAL 2k chromatic sealer(blue and grey together to get a medium blue  to get as close to b5 as possible),then taped on gasket line and did the inside B7 in PPG DIU interior color(low gloss),then taped again on line on B7 side and painted outerside with DBC B5 basecoat,then cleared with PPG GLOBAL 893.

73rallye440magnum

WOW! Car has great lines, looks like you are doing a really nice job. Can't wait to see the rest of it painted!
WTB- 68 or 69 project

Past- '73 Rallye U code, '69 Coronet 500 vert, '68 Roadrunner clone, XP29H8, XP29G8, XH29G0

69 OUR/TEA

Thanks 73rallye440magnum,can't wait either,looks to be about a couple weeks.

jaak

Hey 69 our/tea....
I'm trying to do my own body work. I have (limited) experience. I had to take a break due to family health matters and wiring my shop, but should get back to it soon (in the next 2-3 weeks) my question is.. the main body line on fender, does it go all the way to tip of fender of does is "dissappear" a few inches away from front, if so how far? I had to skim my front fenders, because of a previous dent (was pulled out) but I'm using evercoats metal glaze just to "sharpen" the line a little, making it alittle more defined.

Thanks,
Jason

Btw... Great looking work, man.  I cannot wait to see your car painted, I have been reading your post.  I borrowed one of your pics to show what I was talking about. Thanks again.

69 OUR/TEA

Hey jaak,thumbs up doing your own work, this car,up until 2 weeks ago,never has had the fenders off,I almost was going to leave them on as not to disturb the factory undercoat,but for a couple of reasons had to remove them.First,there would have been no way to paint the cowl area behind the fender brace nice,and my drivers side inner splash shield was put on at the factory to far out off the body and did not allow my fender to go in far enough to line up with the door perfectly.Being that the fenders were never removed was another good piece of evidence that this car was never wrecked or rotted,so with that I knew that what I was looking at for body lines was very correct,not to mention a friend has a 69 still wearing its original paint(black),so as I have been doing my car,I have made a few trips there to reference things I have been doing!!! The body line you are asking about on the front fender actually does fade away in two spots.Directly above the wheel well,at the 12 o'clock position,from the stamping,actually fades the body line slightly because it is very close to the edge of the wheel lip,and it is where the crown of the fender is(the coke bottle looking area),and when it leaves from above the wheel well opening ,after only about 5-7 inches starts to fade away to basically just a slight curve of the panel.My pic at this area might be a little deceiving to you because I quickly blocked above the body line with 220 grit just to see what it looked like,so what appears in the pic is a body line running up to the front,but it is not.That is just a difference in color from being sanded.After I block my panels,I normally wet them down with wax and grease remover to give it a clear coated look so I can see how they look ,and if any touch up work is needed.When I do this I will take a pic and post it for you too see,so you can see the body line.Just as you asked,there is a lot of confusion on this particular spot on these cars.I was at a mopar show,and doing body/paint,I tend to see things that alot of people don't.There was a 68 ,of all things,HEMI CHARGER,that had this body line built up way to high and razor sharp running all the way to the tip and actually around the tip of the front fenders.WOW !!!!! NO..NO..NO !!!!To the right person this looked WAY out of place.Try and get the pic for you soon.

jaak

Thanks 69 OUR/TEA,
I'm glad you told me about the fade @ 12:00 position on the wheel well, this area is pretty much undisturbed on my fender and I see what you are talking about.  My fender dosen't look like it was in a major crash or anything, but like I said, I found some old bondo and removed it and seen where a dent was pulled out on area above side marker on line.  The pulled out area is close, it just had a thin coat of bondo, but like I said line needed "defining".
I almost have my LH fender done, and I ran the line to the front tip (I did't go around the edge though) and it just didn't look right to me.

Thanks again,
Jason

69 OUR/TEA

Was all set to paint the car this weekend,but heavy rain was here,and I did not want to trailer the car in pouring rain and flood out the inside,so decided to power wash the booth,and change bottom filters,to try and get the cleanest job I can.So today I painted under side of hood and hinges .I used PPG global sealer 8090 + 8085 (blue and gray)mixed together to get a light blue,close to B5,then DBC basecoat followed by 2021 clear.I should be bringing the car on thurs,to paint engine bay,and then do the outside.

AirborneSilva

Wow!  that is sure a perdy looking blue, great job - man I wish some of you guys (like you and Doc) lived around here  :icon_smile_sad: