Small block heads

[john686970]

I have been doing some research into building the 318 for my 74 Charger. What I seem to be seeing is the best small block head to use is the 302 casting number head. I cannot seem to find a year range when these were made or what engine/vehicle they came on. I go to salvage yards and want to keep an eye out for the engine or vehicle they came in. Also would like to know small block guys opinions of using the more modern magnum head on the LA block. I know there is a specific intake that has to be used. These heads are easy to find at Pull a Part and such. I am wanting a reliable nice performing engine. Not being built for competition or anything just tired of not having a classic Charger to drive and this car is the easiest and less expensive route to go.

[CDN72SE]

Been wondering the same thing, I've done lots of reading on the 302 heads as well. I've got a 318 in my 72. Way back when I bought the car the seller told me it had 360 heads, well it doesn't.
Also looking for a less expensive route as my resto budget on everything else has basically doubled.

[john686970]

After some further research found a list of small block and big block head casting numbers with year ranges. The 302 small block head is 85-86 318. I would like to hear from small block guys about using the newer Magnum heads tho.

[c00nhunterjoe]

Imo, small or big block- by the time you have purchased a set of core heads, had a machine shop do an honest overhaul on them, you have spent more money then a set of brand new aluminum heads that flow better.

[Challenger340]

Imo, small or big block- by the time you have purchased a set of core heads, had a machine shop do an honest overhaul on them, you have spent more money then a set of brand new aluminum heads that flow better.

Especially when rebuilding with parts suitable for a performance engine build ?

[c00nhunterjoe]

Imo, small or big block- by the time you have purchased a set of core heads, had a machine shop do an honest overhaul on them, you have spent more money then a set of brand new aluminum heads that flow better.

Especially when rebuilding with parts suitable for a performance engine build ?

Imo again, not much difference. 90% of cores have junk sunk valves. So if you are replacing seats and buying new valves, what is the cost difference between stock size vs 1 up.... negligible to me. Porting is where the time and money comes in, especially on iron. Just not worth it to rebuild iron unless it is for a factory show car or a race class requirement

[john686970]

I don't want much more than a factory head. I'm not putting a ton of money into this build just want a better flowing set of heads than a 76 318 has stock. I have a local machine shop doing my block and head work on my big blocks. I have never built a small block other than 100% bone stock 86 318 4 bbl engine. The whole point of me doing this at this time is to have a reliable driver for next year. I go to several car events a year and tired of not having a classic car at them. Anyways for budget reasons good aluminum heads are out. The build I want is this 30 over 318 block, steel crank, iron head aluminum intake, 600 cfm carb, 9.5 compression. I have a cam picked but don't have the specs with me at the moment. Using mechanical fuel pump and high pressure oil pump. That's about it. The transmission is a 904 with a shift kit and torque convertor to match the engine.

[c00nhunterjoe]

If aluminum heads are not in the budget, then you dont have the budget to rebuild the stock heads- correctly. Its cheaper to buy aluminum then rebuild a set of steelies in any machine shop.

Forgive my bluntness  but If you are going to half ass it and have them just brakleen the heads, slap a set of springs on them, paint them, and call them rebuilt, then thats up to you. But you are not going to do it right without spending money on them. If you pay to port them, you have now spent more money then the aluminums.

[c00nhunterjoe]

Just for reference- a stock cheap set of intake valves will run you about 80 bucks. Another 80 for the exhaust. Crap set of springs- 100 bucks. 16 new valve guides- 160, 16 new seats- 160ish. Valve seals- 50ish. Now, we havnt even talked about labor yet and you already have over 600 in parts. An entry level pair of aluminum cost 1100. Decent for 1300, sales and rebates all the time. But the bottom line is you are not going to legitimately rebuild a core set of steels for under a grand, and they will still be stock.
   Have you got a quote on the parts and labor to rebuild your heads yet? What are they charging? What are they replacing? Have they even torn your heads down yet to measure and inspect?
    You have also already picked out a piston for compression ratio without choosing a cam or cylinder head? Im sorry but this is another recipe for disaster.

[Challenger340]

Just for reference- a stock cheap set of intake valves will run you about 80 bucks. Another 80 for the exhaust. Crap set of springs- 100 bucks. 16 new valve guides- 160, 16 new seats- 160ish. Valve seals- 50ish. Now, we havnt even talked about labor yet and you already have over 600 in parts. An entry level pair of aluminum cost 1100. Decent for 1300, sales and rebates all the time. But the bottom line is you are not going to legitimately rebuild a core set of steels for under a grand, and they will still be stock.
   Have you got a quote on the parts and labor to rebuild your heads yet? What are they charging? What are they replacing? Have they even torn your heads down yet to measure and inspect?
   You have also already picked out a piston for compression ratio without choosing a cam or cylinder head? Im sorry but this is another recipe for disaster.

Just for reference- a stock cheap set of intake valves will run you about 80 bucks. Another 80 for the exhaust. Crap set of springs- 100 bucks. 16 new valve guides- 160, 16 new seats- 160ish. Valve seals- 50ish. Now, we havnt even talked about labor yet and you already have over 600 in parts. An entry level pair of aluminum cost 1100. Decent for 1300, sales and rebates all the time. But the bottom line is you are not going to legitimately rebuild a core set of steels for under a grand, and they will still be stock.
   Have you got a quote on the parts and labor to rebuild your heads yet? What are they charging? What are they replacing? Have they even torn your heads down yet to measure and inspect?
   You have also already picked out a piston for compression ratio without choosing a cam or cylinder head? Im sorry but this is another recipe for disaster.

Pay attention to TWO things here:
1.) the above POST
and
2.) my handle on here as "Challenger340"....  just in case you believe I may NOT know what I am talking about with sb Mopars ? or their Heads ?
and,
I OWN my own full service Performance Engine Machine Shop ! we do it all right here !

I can NOT rebuild a set of SB Mopar heads properly for myself ! for even the most basic "performance' style engine, that would justify the parts alone vrs going Aluminum.

Crap in.... crap OUT !
And you are only kidding yourself if you believe some farm implement machine shop/using cast guides/sunken or cracked valve seats/worn valve stems so-called "rebuild" is cost effective ?
"shit will run"... but don't kid yourself, that's ALL it is !