Here is what $5000 buys you.

[Kern Dog]

The left side rotor had a decent inner bearing race so I left it and just used new bearings.
The right side inner race had a couple of defects so I removed it and punched in a new one. I'm a bit confused though. I drove the race in to sit about 1/4" below the ridge of the hub. The factory service manual for my '70 Charger states to drive the "cup" flush.

[Kern Dog]

I've been told that the service manuals often are vague with their descriptions of the procedures. Also, this was a manual for a 1970 model and the rotors are based on a 1973 and later design.
The other rotors that  have here all have their races sitting about 1/4" below the edge so I'll just drive the oil seal and see how it all fits.

[Birdflu]

The left side rotor had a decent inner bearing race so I left it and just used new bearings.
The right side inner race had a couple of defects so I removed it and punched in a new one. I'm a bit confused though. I drove the race in to sit about 1/4" below the ridge of the hub. The factory service manual for my '70 Charger states to drive the "cup" flush.

KD...the inner race should be driven in until fully seated. With the differences in manufacturers, especially among the aftermarket, it wouldn't surprise me to see a difference in margin above the race. 

[Kern Dog]

Thank you.
There is a ridge about another 3/8" deeper but to drive the race in that deep seems like it would be too far. I have a spare race though. Maybe I am right up against a step. I could knock this one out to see if I was right up against it all along.

[nchrome]

If you weren't up against the ridge in the hub the pressure/ weight of the car would eventually force the race where it belongs. Which would ruin the race, bearing, tire and possibly the hub. Make sure you bottom out on that race otherwise you will pay for that mistake in the end. Hopefully you won't wreck your car or loose your life.  It is very important to get that race bottomed out in the hub. That applies to the outer race too

[nvrbdn]

Looking good!!  Just found this thread and wow, good work here!!

[Kern Dog]

If you weren't up against the ridge in the hub the pressure/ weight of the car would eventually force the race where it belongs. Which would ruin the race, bearing, tire and possibly the hub. Make sure you bottom out on that race otherwise you will pay for that mistake in the end. Hopefully you won't wreck your car or loose your life.  It is very important to get that race bottomed out in the hub. That applies to the outer race too

Thank you. I did tap the race in a little more. It felt like it wouldn't go in anymore so I lubed up the bearings, tapped in the grease seal and slid it on.
The rotor sits the same way on the spindle on both sides. The rotor face sits 3/16" out from the caliper bracket.

[Kern Dog]

I mounted up a 15/16" aluminum master cylinder from Dr Diff.
The car came with no firewall stiffener plate so I dug around out back and found one that would fit. I made a gasket to fit between the firewall and plate.
Brake lines are all in place and snug. Master cylinder has been bench bled....all that remains is to bleed the rest of the system.

[Kern Dog]

This junker has brakes!

Here is a tip: When encountering a problem, be willing to listen to advice from others, even the Wife.
I had the Master Cylinder full. The Wife was in the car on the pedal. She was pressing the pedal over and over and I could not get any fluid out of the rear bleeder screws. I loosened the brake hose connection and it had fluid. I backed off the brake line fitting at the backing plates and had fluid. The bleeders were clean. She had been pumping 10 times and holding while I cracked the bleeders and nothing would come out. This went on for 6-8 minutes.
She said....Why don't you try the front?
Yeah, sure...It can't hurt, right?
The fronts spurted out some dirty brake fluid and a lot of air. I made three passes with each caliper. Fluid got cleaner and the air was clearing out. Also, The pedal was now getting some feel to it. I went to the back and sure enough, it started to spurt out of the rear bleeders. Three times at each rear wheel then back to the front. now at a panic stop pedal slam, the pedal stops halfway to the floor. That is good enough for me!
The Wife....what a great lady!

[b5blue]

WOW LOOK WHAT YOU DID! I'm real impressed, posting pictures and everything.....or is this fake news? 

[Kern Dog]

This thread is about a car build on the cheap, nothing political about it. Not fake, all the mistakes and successes are here for all to see. 
I have to remind people sometimes that I am mostly a clown...I love to joke, tease and entertain....sometimes I like to annoy people. Some threads have become waaaaaay too serious.
I doubt that anyone's mind will change in the hotly debated threads so why not take a step back and laugh a bit?
I hope that even the most ardent leftist can believe that the media has become a joke. They often make news instead on impartially reporting it.
This topic though is only about a car that was wrecked almost 25 years ago and left for dead.

[b5blue]

  Well there IS a machined edge inside the hub of the rotor that the race must be driven up against tightly. The seal can be installed correctly with a hunk of 2X4 laid flat overlapping the rotor's inside hub edge. Like I said, you done good.

[Kern Dog]

Thank you. I tapped the race in as far as it felt like it wanted to go and bolted it all together. IT seems fine. I could pull a rotor from my red car to see how deep the race sits.

[Kern Dog]

With functional brakes now, I backed out of the car lift bay and took some pictures.

[Kern Dog]

The front sits a little too low.

[Kern Dog]

These are the first side by side pictures on my cars. I've had this roach since September!

[Kern Dog]

I cranked up the torsion bars a bit once I had the car back inside.

[Kern Dog]

Oh yeah, the brakes seem fine!

[WHITE AND RED 69]

Kicking ass on this one!   

I'd lower the front back down, it looked tougher lower. Gave it that old nascar look.

[darbgnik]

Kicking ass on this one!   

I'd lower the front back down, it looked tougher lower. Gave it that old nascar look.

It probably will lower when he adds an engine.

[Kern Dog]

I started working on the engine side wire harness. The car came with nothing on the engine side. No brake booster or stiffening plate, no brake line, no wiring, even the A/C stuff was torn out.
I have boxes of harnesses from several A-body cars. Luckily, the bulkhead plugs are the same. The down side? The A body cars used single headlight per side harnesses with different terminal ends. This is a 3 speed wiper car. I don't know if I'll keep it that way or swap the switch and other stuff into my red car.
I have a guy sending me some wiring so I'll get back to that a bit later.
Today I started messing around with the original 383 for this car. Numbers do match!

[Kern Dog]

It had A/C but the compressor was removed. This odd looking idler pulley was used to allow the retention of the original pulleys.

[Kern Dog]

I pulled the heads to check the deck clearance. This is a number that is critical in determining the compression ratio. My plan is to disassemble the engine, hone the cylinders and reassemble with new rings, bearings, gaskets, oil pump, Cam and lifters, timing set and other bits.
The piston sits .076 below deck. That is a LOT but I have heard of far worse....
I checked with a few online compression ratio calculators and was disappointed to see that even with the stock .020 head gaskets, the math shows that this is at 8.12 to 1 despite the factory rating of 8.7 to 1.
Using the thicker but common .039 Fel Pro gaskets drops the CR to 7.85 to 1. That is terrible. I've heard of guys that complain that their rebuilt 383 feels slow and this may explain why: Even replacement pistons sit too low and don't build enough compression. I wonder if the 383 Magnum used true zero deck flat top pistons. Zero deck computes out to 9.48 to 1 with uncut heads.

[Kern Dog]

Messing around with the compression ratio calculator, I may have found a way to make this 383 work.
Milling the heads .050 and decking the block .010 along with using .020 steel head gaskets gets the ratio back up to 9.02 to 1. That isn't too bad.
The 383 Magnum was rated half a point higher in 1970 and was listed at 335 HP. I'm going to use headers and a slightly hotter cam. Factoring in for the gross vs net HP numbers, I am hoping to exceed the factory numbers a bit. The 383 Road Runners and Super Bees were 14 second cars with 3.55 gears. That isn't too bad.

[b5blue]

Don't forget all that cutting lowers the rocker shafts changing valve train geometry. I may have new shaft shim sets left over (Bought for just in case.) if your not using cut to fit push rods.